Відео

I know this is an old video, but a couple of things to add: 1/ You don't need to desolder the entire CIC chip, just lift pin 4. It's literally a 5-minute mod if you've got a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. 2/ I know it sounds weird, but boiling the connector works. I did not believe it myself until I gave it a go, my electronics teachers would be horrified no doubt, but there you go. The result really is not a subtle matter, the difference is night and day. I wouldn't like to do it weekly, and you do of course need to be very careful that it is dried appropriately, but it is genuinely shocking what a difference it makes if you've got an old and picky NES.

MAC PAINT AND play.

Cool video. A Floppy EMU is would still be a handy tool to use.

0:23 I finally found someone who doesn't like that vaporwave thing. great job

I used Clonezilla to clone the original hard drive to a SSD and the Alt+F10 recover hotkey does work. The only caveat is that Clonezilla only supports cloning to a larger drive than the original drive.

Awesome content, well done! Thank you.

I flow super well on this thing while writing contemporaneously. Anyone who doesn't type with this is missing a thing. Mine is a 2013.

This is a great video. I love you use your real voice and not AI.

I want it. Give it to me. _Now._ _I will not stop until I own every single ThinkCentre M58 ever made._ I'll even pay shipping.

MacPaint may not seem notable to you now, but it was groundbreaking when it debuted on the 128K Mac. It was like nothing anyone had seen before and was a big reason I bought the computer. Microsoft Paint was a virtual clone of MacPaint (and a big part of Apple's lawsuit against Microsoft over the early Windows GUI). The first version of Photoshop (1990) copied a lot of the UI elements of MacPaint-vertical toolbar on the left, selection indicated by "marching ants," and even a lot of the tool icons.

Maybe you've figured this out by now, but in MacWrite you can insert "rulers" between paragraphs. You're not limited to the one at the top. This allows you to format each paragraph independently. LisaWrite (on the Apple Lisa) worked this way, too. You could also copy and paste rulers to replicate paragraph formats in different parts of a document. Microsoft copied a lot of the UI from MacWrite when it did the first Mac version of Word, but it did away with the ruler idea by having a single, stationary formatting bar at the top of the window which changes depending on which paragraph you're working in.

My first Mac was a 1986 Mac Plus. Miss the simplicity of that machine but was somewhat a big improvement over the C=64. :)

Seamus, thanks for the video on "recovery of the Acer ZG5 software partition" it was a well thought out logical guide to the replacement of my hdd. I still use my netbook for outside work and lost my recovery disk years ago I am now back at it. if your ever in Tulsa first beers on me.

You should look for a copy of Mac Switcher for changing between programs. That and many other programs were very handy. I was at U of Michigan in the engineer computer lab team. We installed hundreds of Macs around the university and had a lot of programs not readily available.

the definitive Mac Plus video on youtube! thank you and please consider making new videos again :)

Rediscovering this video after 3 years. Please make some more!

I still have my LENOVO m58p computer running as a backup computer. It can still handle UA-cam videos at 1080 @ 60fps, and has no problem with the HD Netflix movies/TV_Shows.. Way back when, I had invested a whopping $20 to upgrade from a dual core CPU to a quad core Q9500, and of course I added a cheap SSD.

1:15 ... for Mathematics you get a F ... how can 512kB be just twice as much as 128kB?!

Great video! Very thorough, which I enjoyed since I just got ahold of a beat up Mac Plus that I plan to restore. Thanks Seamus!

Great video. I used a ramdisk on my plus. Got rid of the swapping

I had an SE.

Wow 7 lbs? So it weighs more than the older IBMs?

Maybe you can help me with this, I have a Mac and a Mac bottom. Everything worked great for / years and now all of a sudden when I turn both on, the max says it needs a floppy when normally it would biomass that because I have the Mac bottom. I can hear and see the Mac bottom light turn green but i don’t know what to do. I cannot use my Mac anymore. Any help? Of ideas of what might be wrong?

That would actually need a tri-sync monitor.

I remember using the motherboard from this PC 2 years ago, and it was laud as hell cause fan control wasn't working

Wait so will this work on my Acer Aspire One D257? Because few years back I downgraded from Windows 7 Starter to XP clean installed bc of how slow it was, but during the installation I lost all of my factory recovery partitions, so will this tutorial make it possible for me to restore the recovery partition back onto my old netbook??

lol, "no user serviceable parts". I still have some serious nostalgia for this machine because it was the first computer I ever got to use in school.

May I ask what is the difference between the classic and the ultraclassic keyboards? I feel like they are basically the same except maybe the options for the no. of keys

So is it a dude or a chick narrator

Nice! I think Mac Plus in wonderful! Thanks for this video, and greetings from Spain!!

The Macintosh Plus computer was the first Macintosh computer I ever used. It was a printing school in Manhattan, New York. In 1990, I "majored" in word processing through a course called "Advanced Desktop Publishing." I was the only student who did not take the typewriting course, because I have had the typewriting skill "under my belt." I learned to use Microsoft Word in the Macintosh Plus. I like it as much as my classmates enjoyed learning creative art on Adobe Illustrator. After using Microsoft Word, I became well-acquainted with Adobe Pagemaker. Today, I am working privately on a Microsoft Windows-based computer because the Apple computer does not have all the complete business applications such as database and some desktop publishing programs. You just got a "Like 209" from me.

Thank you! This was just what I needed and couldn't be better explained... Yes, it is not a very good computer but when nostalgia comes, nothing better that some good old games running natively on the platform they where meant to, and running all the process is part of the fun! 🤓

I came for Vaporwave, I left amazed. Steve Jobs ousted by the board? Good idea tbh Another edit: 8:24 THANK YOU! Thaaank you for saying that. As a general practice for the uninitiated you should not work on Microwaves(Salvage these for parts if you need the caps), old TVs and CRT monitors without first discharging the tubes, capacitors and other archaic electronic components. These things will drop you in a blink or outright kill you. They can also hold a charge for a long time.

I got one of these, wanted to look up a video on it, and BAM, vaporware.

A Mac Plus was the first computer I owned in late 1886 or in ‘87. Of course, I had been using computers since I was 13 in 1977. But never owned one. The price was ridiculous- but not optional. I spent another thousand US bucks (after $3000.00 USbucks for the MAcPlus on a 20 meg scsi hard drive. I think current value of these is as an aquarium. But, it was crucial to me for years.

I just did almost the same thing to my Acer aspire 4220. I did it a little bit differently though. I got the alt + f10 key working.

great review. am ordering mine soon!

Good work on reviving one of these computers! I designed a power supply and posted it on the forums if your PSU were to die. What game posted the illegal CD message?

Can you try Windows 11?

Can it run to Windows 11?

cool video!

Technically, if you ever got some kind of hard drive solution, you could also test how badly Windows 95 runs on it.

What software did you use burn the game? I've tried about a dozen CD-Rs, four different brands, and none work using ImgBurn at x1 speed (actually 24x, the slowest the disc is reported to ImgBurn as being able to burn at). ImgBurn says the burn is successful on multiple games, but none work. Legit retail discs seem to work, though.

Where can you get games for it?

Awsome! I'm surprised how well they held up in 2022 I upgraded the Core 2 duo e7500 with a Core 2 quad q9400 And applied a fresh layer of Arctic MX4 I put a 226GB Kingston SSD Replacing the 500GB Seagate Barracuda, I still have the original ram (2Gb x 2, 1gb x 2) But I'm planning to replace that with 2Gb x 4 for a total of 8GB And I put in a ASUS GTX 1050 TI Phoenix Edition, And to top it all of I installed Windows 11 on it Although I should have probably skipped the LGA775 socket in all I think it can still be good. All in all It can run Beam NG on normal preset with only the Textures being turned up to high (40-50fps) And can run Minecraft Java with Optifine and shaders(30-40fps, Without shaders I can run at a smooth 60fps) And Forza Horizon 5 with anywhere from 30-45 FPS on the High preset. sorry for the long comment haha.

I’ve owned a Ultra Classic since ‘18 and it’s a favorite. Used it at work and decided I didn’t like using something else at home. So, I bought the of the “New Model M’s” that Unicomp is marketing now. Awaiting delivery, but the reviews for them are all quite good. They apparently really did some investment in new tooling. So, the Ultra will come home and the New M will be at work. Thankfully, I have an office door that I can shut, when the clatter just becomes too much for those outside

ua-cam.com/video/dQzN9WhlU4I/v-deo.html BypassSecureBootCheck= 0 instead 1

Good review - thanks! I'm still waiting for the Unicomp "Mini M" (a TKL version of this keyboard). Have been waiting for months now... 🙁

Nicely done dude and sweet system :) Admittedly I did skip quickly through some of the video so apologies if I mention something you already did. For the rust work, any vinegar will 100% remove the rust, heavy products aren't required. The question with that is how long are you willing to wait. The acid in the vinegar will work given the time, products like Evaporust isn't required but will do the job faster. The patches that used to have rust will rust again, the water in air is enough to start the process again so you'll need to finish them in some way to stop that reaction happening. You can get a paint called 'galvanising paint', you can get it in a spray which is perfect for finishing metal parts like the bay slot covers, RF shields, that kind of thing. That small patch on the inside of the side panel, the area will be likely be stained from the rust, you could likely get that pretty close to original using some Hydrogen Peroxide, but not the usual you would see used in 'RetroBrite'. The small bottles you can get from a Pharmacy are more suited, they are only about a 6% solution. Leave the side panel face down on put a little puddle of the peroxide over the patch. It won't stay active for too long, so every now and then, wipe off the puddle and apply again. It's so gradual you will barely notice it doing anything, just keep at it, eventually it will get there without damage. For the paint work on the outside you may have to get a little creative. That store you got the Evaporust at looks like the very place to be. See if they have a paint mixing machine, just the type that makes paint for household use. Take the side panel to the store with you, the paint mixing stations have a scanner that will match the paint colour. For the base tin of paint (that's the tin the paint pigments are mixed into), you want a kitchen or bathroom one. They are harder wearing than a standard wall emulsion and are also water proof. Test the paint on an unseen part of the case to see how well it matches. Those paints are usually water based (the waterproofing and hardening of the kitchen/bathroom paint comes when the paint cures) so you can lighten/darken with any other bog standard water based paint, just find the smallest, cheapest tins of black and white you can find, they are just for adjusting the shade (the same store will have it). Use a ridiculously small paint brush for any scratches that are in lines and a small piece of sponge for patches. If you hit the jackpot and the colour match is perfect, the areas where you used a sponge will disappear almost completely and the parts that were individual scratches you can use a sponge application to smooth out a scratch at the end. Don't try to rush it, apply the paint in thin layers and build it up. It's the kind of thing that up close and personal you will still see the fault but from a couple of feet away, it will disappear. Have a good look at the side panel finish, they are usually a silk finish, I would start with a paint base that's silk. A quick one, the floppy facias are off colour, that's just the usual bromine/UV reaction. It's more subtle on a grey plastic than a cream/white but its still there. The 6% H2O2 will sort that out too, I doubt a retro brite would be needed to get them back to original state. The last thing is the video signal and I'm only mentioning this in case it's something you haven't encountered yet. There are mainly two signalling types to consider when working with 15kHz, one is analog and one is digital. I've never had an FM Towns in my collection so I really don't know what it uses. So if you end up with a 15kHz screen and you don't get a picture, have a look for a switch somewhere on the back, the ones I've seen are usually labelled 'TTL' for the digital mode. I was very surprised that your PC monitor actually displayed the image, don't ever get rid of that Monitor! lol Have a look see if your monitor gives you any info on the signal it is detecting, or you know, google for FM Towns info :D All in all, enjoyed your video and I have subbed. I look forward to seeing your future projects.

windows logo key is useless, just do "control+Escape"