Відео

I guess - buy the warranty . There aren't many online reviews

@@timothykeith1367 (Buyer beware) ZERO customer support & no parts available to make repairs.

@@ray34440 no I reused the original check valve. I used a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to make it work. Thanks for watching!

@@salvatoreschinina1487 il riduttore e l'adattatore non sono i migliori che posso ammettere. funziona ancora molti mesi dopo. grazie per la visione

I didn't know that method is used in plumbing. It makes sense though. Yes it's also used on steel automotive brake lines, not soft material.

I’d guess it’s age. I never opened it up to find out what happened . I does still spin with a lot of effort. The person I purchased that compressor from was doing body work. So it worked hard for a long time.

Thank you. A $16. Pulley fixed it.

The motor is rated at 3100 watts . The initial test that resulted in 38amp draw was performed with a 5k watt generator. Did you watch the entire video?

@@ffsdirtbike Correct. That is full load amps. The starting (locked rotor) current can be be or 6 times that amount when first starting. A clamp on amp meter will likely not catch that initial current load because it happens so fast. That initial amp draw is what pulls the generator down so hard. When powering from commercial power there are near unlimited amps available so that initial amp draw is unimportant. You would be must better off running your air compressor off an 8 - 10 kw generator. Although you are now able to start it with the smaller pulley, it is still hard on the motor and generator over the course of time.

In the video you can see ,with the original pulley, when I flip the switch on - with an amp clamp on one leg it shows a spike of 42 amps . This would indicate a starting draw of 10,080 watts. “ confirming what you are saying “ After downsizing the pulley, the initial start shows 19amps per leg or 4560 watts. And at full pressure it draws 11.5A per leg=2750watt just before cycling off . That is with in range of my generator. I appreciate your comment and comments like yours because they make me go back and double check my work. Many times I work off of intuition and in this case the sound I know the generator and compressor should make . Now that I have actually gone over the numbers, I know my generator is fine and will do the job , and my compressor will last many years. I can hear it when it starts. It’s making the correct noises. It’s not struggling. This is based on decades of working in shops next to compressors. I do plan on upgrading the power in my garage and adding a proper 240 V. Shore power outlet. I hope you keep watching my videos and keep commenting and keeping me honest . Thank you, sir.

I’ll be glad to help. I’ve been in a facebook group called “ktm rfs owners riders fans” in this group you can have access to all wiring diagrams , test procedures and good advice from some members. If you haven’t yet I would suggest joining this group. I plan on making some more RFS videos soon. I get a lot of wiring questions and I’d like to go over what I know and also I have an upgrade stator and cooling fan for mine yet to install. Thanks for watching and I’ll try to help out if I can.

RFS Voltage Checks Yellow wire feeds ac to the lights, white wire charges battery (via regulator/rectifier) Checking the generator output Measuring conditions: - cold engine - seat and tank removed - all connectors and the ground connection in a non-corroding condition, connectors tightly connected - battery loaded (if installed) and light switch turned off - compression release lever pulled - kick the kick starter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement Check the generator output for voltage between the following cable colors: - between yellow and brown (ground), loom disconnected Multimeter display: 15 volts +/- 1 volt - same measurement with loom connected Multimeter display: 12 volts +/- 1 volt - between white and brown (ground), loom disconnected Multimeter display: 19 volts +/- 1 volt - same measurement with loom connected Multimeter display: 14 volts +/- 1 volt NOTE: The black measuring lead of the peak voltage adapter must be applied to the ground. Check regulator rectifier output voltage cable colors yellow/red, regulator rectifier bk connected, capacitor disconnected (if installed) and fuse bm removed: - between yellow/red and brown (ground) Multimeter display: 14 volts +/- 1 volt NOTE: - The black measuring lead of the peak voltage adapter must be applied to the ground. - For facilitation of work, the regulator rectifier bk can be detached from the frame. Checking the voltage regulator-rectifier A defect voltage regulator can cause different kinds of trouble: • No voltage in the circuit In this case, the voltage regulator must be disconnected at idle speed. The voltage regulator is defect if the power consumers now work properly. If the power consumers are still not supplied with power, the switch, the wiring harness or the ignition system must be checked for defects. • Excessive voltage in the circuit The bulbs burn out. In this case the voltage regulator must be replaced. Checking the charging voltage NOTE: The values stated below only apply to fully charged batteries (minimum charging level 90%). - Start the engine and switch on the low beam. - Connect a voltmeter to both battery connections. - Accelerate the engine to a speed of 5000 rpm and read the voltage. Nominal value: 14.0 - 15.0 V In the case of a significant deviation from the nominal value: - Check the connector between the stator and the voltage regulatorrectifier and the connector between the voltage regulator-rectifier and the cable tree. - Check the stator. - Replace the voltage regulator-rectifier Resistance checks: Ignition Coil Measure Cable colours Resistance primary coil blue/white - ground 0.30 $ 15% secondary coil blue/white - ignition wire 6.30 k 20% Stator Ignition Measure cable colours Resistance Pulser coil red - green 100 S 20 9 4K-3B (EXC) Exciter black/red - red/white 15 2+ 3 S Charge coil ground - yellow 0.65 8 + 0.15 g white - yellow 0.16 S # 0.03 S Voltage checks Measuring conditions: - cold engine - seat and tank removed - all connectors and the ground connection in a non-corroding condition, connectors tightly connected - battery loaded (if installed) and light switch turned off - the gap between the rotor and pulse generator must be set to 0.75 mm - compression release lever pulled - kick the kick starter forcefully at least 5 times for each measurement Check the pulse generator for an output signal - two-pin connector with green and red cable colors: - Apply the red measuring lead to the green cable and the black measuring lead to the red cable, disconnect the CDI unit Multimeter display: 4.5 volts +/- 0.5 volt - Same measurement with CDI unit connected Multimeter display: 3 volts +/- 0.5 volt Check the generator charging coil for ignition capacitor charge - two-pin connector with black/red and red/white cable colors : - Apply the red measuring lead to the black/red cable and the black measuring lead to the red/white cable, disconnect the CDI unit Multimeter display: 30 volts (35 volts for 400 SX) +/- 5 volts - Same measurement with CDI unit connected Multimeter display: 200 volts +/- 10 volts Check the primary voltage output for ignition coil control for output voltage (blue/white cable color): - Apply the red measuring lead to the black/white cable (ground) and the black measuring lead to the blue/white cable, CDI unit and ignition coil connected Multimeter display: 200 volts +/- 10 volts This diagnostic flow chart page was written by a very smart very helpful tech. named Kevin Parker. You will find him in the RFS owners group I mentioned earlier. When you’re in the group, you can find all this paperwork under the “Files“ tab .

No that’s a dirt bike it’s considered a motorcycle

Yes, I did. I’m actually editing that video now. i’m a little embarrassed at how slow I went. But I want to show my progress.

Wednesday, I’ll post that video

My arms are still sore. Seriously

Fun ride! 😁

😅

I didn't buy a kit. I bough the individual parts for an EXC model from the same year.

No actually, I charge my bike at night. I now finally have all the parts to upgrade the stator.

Yes I agree. I put new plastics on this year

For baking cakes man! that's it I swear !

@@ffsdirtbike LMAO! ! !

I purchased the parts piece by piece for the same year EXE model, from KTM World in Georgia. Im not aware of any kits for sale.

Ok thanks you for the information

drive.google.com/file/d/16qvl_QNGIkljNp5GDIt13tGL03QzYKyO/view?usp=sharing

All the information you need

@@ffsdirtbike Thank you so much ... I can now follow along and check my timing at the crank.. I think I am out one tooth on the bottom !!.

@@ffsdirtbike Thank you for getting back to me..

I ran my wires from the battery over the sub frame, and they nearly touch the gas tank before then traveling down toward the starter. Up and over rather than down through the airbox. I’m not sure if that’s how everybody does it. I avoided drilling any holes in the airbox that would let water in.

Got a link for the kit?

I didn’t use any kit. I purchased wire by the foot and soldered ends onto it. Most of the other components were purchased individually for an EXC model that came equipped with E-start.

The new exhaust does not use heat shields. The original exhaust included welded on shape conforming shields that are not removable. Short answer is “ no, I didn’t”

Thank you. I’ve taken a lot of chances with used parts on this bike to keep costs down and I’ve been very lucky so far.