Відео

Just deleted the TPMS on my 2011 335d. The module was exactly as described in this video. Protool coding was easy.

sum tin wong

can you do the exhaust side without taking out the valvetronics motor

cant lie sounds like an rs3 launch

Whats the yox bit size to remove the vvt plate? Ive seen comments its a 3mm on the other as well not a 5mm is that accurate?

This is normal with no oil pressure

normal. No oil inside. Hint. Before installing, make sure the locking pin is not broken. Use the pliers to hold the inside ring and hand twist the outside. U should have a bit of movement (1/16"?) as the pin is locking which is good.

My 2014 Chevy Cruz is leaking oil. It’s not leaking from the engine or the oil pan. I’m puzzled where the oil is leaking from. I was told to replace the turbo boost on my car. The dealership is trying to charge me $4000 and that’s more that the car is worth. Please help

Hello, i have a 135i n55 DCT, i have a problem with the WOTBOX i installed on it. It´s turning off the car after 2-3 seconds and getting 2f44 code. Is thhere a way to get rid of this problem?

hello, the phase shifters need a setting or not we can put it in the direction we want

I’d been in the trunk of my 2012 E92 M3 for days and then your video showed me where else to look…voila! Thanks 👊🏽

It will run 20,000 miles , same thing happened to me know I’m rebuilding my motor with new crank😆

I did this patch today. One note - I have a 2013 X5 and it requires a 4mm Allen wrench. I think I did 12 full rotations.

Hello, when the Valvetronic servomotor is replaced, the shaft must be at maximum or minimum??the teeth up or down to start the car? N55 engine too thank you so much greetings

Scratches everywhere

what tools do you need to do this job at home

28 dollar fix

What wheels do you have on it? Looks good

It’s not a 5mm allen wrench🤬, it’s a 3 mm!!!!

Easy fix ua-cam.com/users/shortso9fpH6Qw3iA?feature=share its just the bushing..the newer ones are graphite impregnated......its metal to metal plus cheap gas causes ash build up inside the turbo waiste gate flange keep the gate from sealing which causes under boost conditions

my car is knocking from the top end 2011 135i n55, what should i try to replace to save my motor?

It is normal, there is no oil,after start it will disappear

Sprocket

Saya juga sedang mengalaminya

Hello! Can you please check out the most recent video on my channel regarding a cold engine (soft knocking sound) i have no idea what it is, I am afraid if it is pre rod knock sound. It goes away when the engine is warm. Any input would be much appreciated!

I just found the cause of the p0299 code that keeps popping up on my wife’s car. It’s the corrugated tube that goes from the intake manifold to the top of the turbo. There is a check valve in the end of the tube just before it connects to the turbo. The check valve gets stuck open once and a while and causes the intermittent code. I just put a new hose in. 80 dollars for the hose and 10 minutes later. No more codes. Update the code came back a few weeks later. New solution. Changed the waste gate actuator with an aftermarket one with a 12psi spring. 8 weeks no codes. 😊

i know its late but that's normal

What settings did u use on the wotbox?

Started calling machining shops around once i heard this noise on the n52 engine on my stand that im swapping into my 200k mile e90 330i 6speed. Thank u so much for posting this haha

Was this an issue or normal? What was the fix if not normal?

How long did it run after the fix?

What size Allan key, and what size drill bit did you use to drill the hole

How long did this last? I’m in a similar situation. Im going to do the same

Hmm 🤔

Hmm

I wasted time and probably money replacing my eccentric shaft sensor and valvetronic motor and it still doesn’t work I’m still getting codes saying the sensor is bad starting to believe I have a bad dme? Idk some module must be bad or relay

Hi, is there any risk the excentric shaft won't stay in max lift while engine runing ? I'm afraid the huge spring will snap the excentric shaf.

When your car has trouble with valvetronic motor or eccentric shaft and your car runs like shit, this is the best way you can do to make your bmw car runs okay. After adjusting the eccentric shaft to the maximum lift never reconnect the motor and eccentric shaft plugging back in. Your car will run okay..except you will get error code on the dashboard...just ignore it.

Hey man I need help I’m doing this right now and I can’t get all the way through that hole it. It just vibrates now it won’t go through am I doing something wrong

what drill size did you start/end with? thanks

Alway check your n55 oil level

Hey thank you for the video. You do a amazing job. But i dont understand what i need to do with the allen key after you lift to max. Can i put the allen key out ? Because in the video its going back after you let it go. What do i have to do so that it doesnt turn back ?

Very nice Video👍🏻 I have an e93 335i with a N55 Engine. Does it works on my Engine without removing the valve Cover?

I had an 11’ lci e90 335i-alpine white with saddle brown interior. MHD stage 2+ e30, stoptech bbk. I loved that car to death and will always miss it.

does this happen on 2015?

how long did the job take?

I replaced my wastegate actuator and the underboost continues even though my car accelerates smoother now and no more surging so I checked my cat converters and they are bad at only 90k miles, but especially the first one in the downpipe! Clogged cats equals low boost! My plan is on black Friday to get a catless down pipe and high flow catted mid pipe from ZZPerformance and luckily they were smart enough to relocate the downstream oxygen sensor behind the 2nd catalytic converter so that way you can eliminate the first catalytic converter but still keep the check engine light off even without a tune!

Hi I have a valvetronic code on my n55 435i, 135908. It’s saying valvetronic actuator motor, position sensors: no power supply. Now when I do a cold start on the car, it starts up then within the first second, it almost dies, idles roughly bounces rpm like 400-800 etc I have to push on the gas sometimes to keep it alive then all of a sudden it goes back up to normal and idles super smoothly as if nothings wrong. But it does throw a drivetrain malfunction and chasis stability which got me confused as u mentioned in previous comments how valvetronic doesn’t put the car into limp mode

Hey man did you end up fixing this?

Oh Ben you almost had it! So many turbos have been replaced because of this problem disconnect the linkage spray some WD-40 on the shaft going into the cast-iron manifold work out really good get It loosened up it’s free then spray carb cleaner on it to get rid of the WD-40 and you’re done. I have fixed many 1.4 like this . The problem is rust you can’t lubricate it because it gets too hot