Відео

Americans would use anything but the metric system. 😆

Hello, I would like to ask you a favor, 5 months ago I bought one just like it at an auction from an abandoned company. but it does not have the automatic or threading system, could you help me with the measurements of the sprockets to manufacture the system

Hi. Just came across your channel and subscribed.

Just going to park some info here... Mine is for a 69 TR25W, but the same stuff as most. That bottom screw to take out the cone is 11/32. But it is a narrow opening. I had to grind my socket down to fit. The cone itself has a hex base, so a 5/8" spark plug socket on a couple of extensions, and it came out easily.

I'm having a hard tracking down distilled vinegar, will white 5% vinegar work just fine?

nice job! great video. I just bought a very very dirty sheldon 11 with motor mounted above. You taught me about the auto feed as I noticed mine has the slot along the screw too and the function lever. I disassembled it to carry into my house from truck. It is reassembled and running once again. I did scrape off much crud. Eventually I will try to clean up, paint, and lube the various parts. In the meantime I'm trying to figure out or learn how things work.

Hey. Thanks for the video. I'm learning to use a lathe. The shop I'm at has a similar Sheldon 11" lathe. I am having trouble engaging the power feed with the clutch. How does the clutch know work? Are you supposed to screw the knob in to get it to engage, or do you just push/pull the knob? Possibly the lathe is quite worn. It seems like sometimes I can get it to engage and other times not. Thanks

WOW.....Thanks for the class

I really want to learn and I pay attention

5:52 NOT BOOZE . .🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂

Very helpful video! I just picked up an only slightly abused Sheldon EL-46-B. I just set the lathe back on the pedestal and this video will help me a lot. Thanks for posting it!

Ive the older model 1936 with flat bend and its an overdrive he have the motor upside the mecanism is identical nice machine mister

Hello, your lathe is exackly like mine , you know what model it is ? where to get parts ? thanks

You’d make a great high school teacher . 👍

I recommend using a wire wheel for cleaning the rust off of the metal parts i usually first use the wire wheel to clean the large amounts of rust off then let The part sit in some rust killing solution which turns The part black you can then go back over with the wire wheel and take that material off and clean it up and plate it but I do not like using media blast it basically creates a whole bunch of tiny pits in the Metal which is hard to get out

Nice one...

this video was very helpful, my handwheel gear is missing a tooth and skips if hand feeding....this gave me the confidence to take it apart and fix it!

My lathe is almost done! I was ordering oil for it and was going to use "Mobil 100772 Vactra No.2 Way Oil" for the ways but was unsure if I should use a different oil for the spindle and other oil locations, or if the vectra oil was ok as an all around oil. I checked the ISO ratings and I think its acceptable but I want to make sure I oil the lathe correctly. Finally I was wondering if you had the original manual or a PDF of the lathe. I found one but its kind of short and I was trying to unseize the tail stock and I was looking for a better diagram as I think I am just going to have to blowtorch and hammer the snot out of but I wanted to make sure I was doing it justifiably.

I'm getting ready to change the fork seals on my 64 TR6. My forks are lightly different from yours, I don't have that piece above the spring you were struggling with. I don't think i'm even going to mess with that cone in the bottom of the fork. No reason for me remove that...unless I look down there with a flashlight and it looks like it needs to be replaced. I hear they're hard to remove and hard to put back in.

Would PEG added to zinc electrolyte work same as when added to copper electrolyte? Thanks

zinc can be found on batteries

Sorry to bother you again. I am still taking my lathe (same as yours) apart as it needs a full rebuild. What where the size (length) belts that this lathe took and the kind (shape)? Also if one is doing a full rebuild would it be ok to remove the 4 bolts and the spindle bearing caps to remove the spindle? I am unsure if this would cause any issues (as I am a bit of a novice)? Thank you again for your time and consideration. It is greatly appreciated.

About how much does this lathe weigh?

where did you source a replacement drive gear that you said you broke? mine is missing : (

I just got one of these lathes. Looking through the maintenance guide I can see how the apron is assembled. But what is the best way to take it off? I'm terrified of damaging it as it is a lovely machine in near perfect working order as far as I can tell. I can see the portion where it latches onto the feed screw but I can't figure out how to get it off or if I need to take off the screw itself first. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This explanation seemed misleading and overly complicated. Make an electrolyte with about 1 Gal. White Vinegar, 1/2 cup Epsom Salts, 1/3 cup Sugar. You can get free zinc from old wheel weights marked Zn or from the outer cases of dry cell batteries (zinc-carbon, not alkaline). Use 1.5V batteries (or an old 5vdc cellphone charger). Note: Car batteries and car chargers are too powerful. Attach the part you want to plate to negative and the sacrificial zinc anode to positive. Before plating, charge your solution overnight with zinc at both ends. Your anode will partially disintegrate into solution. Clean and degrease your parts. When plating, rotate your part occasionally to get full even coverage or surround your part with more anodes connected together. Use almost any conductive wire to hang things. If you want to make your plated part shinier, buff it. Plate outdoors to avoid fumes. (Note, most diecast parts are made of 96% zinc and 4% aluminum which is another great source for the zinc since the aluminum will not electroplate from solution.) Also note: Boat anodes are made of zinc, magnesium, or aluminum (not just zinc). Happy plating.

it's wrong. They use alkali baths. Acidic zincate baths require high current. 5-100 Amps, for short periods. It's only used on wires. The layer is thin. I'll keep seeking the hydroxide solution recipe

Tedious, self-indulgent nonsense - Do the math before you start filming.

The bushing where the screw rides I think is threaded into the tail stock. The hole is for a pin spanner to remove n install. Set screw is to lock it in.

Thank you so much!!!! I am working on my family farm and we have one of these

Another question. To make the initial solution I used two zinc strips with an old sony 400mA power adapter, as I had seen in some other videos. I left them powered in the vinegar/epson/sugar solution for a few hours. After that, I unplugged the power adapter and left the setup overnight. the next morning I looked at the solution, with the zinc strips still in there, connected to the adapter. They were lightly bubbling and completely black! With the conductive solution, there was something going on with the circuit. Did I ruin the solution? What happened? Thank you!

Is titanium wire necessary? I have copper wire.Thank you. About 100g per liter of each: epson salt and of sugar - good to know.

Just found your video, you had trouble taking the bottom damper (cone shaped thing) out. The little drain bolt had been removed to empty the oil out but it should then be replaced as it holds the bottom damper in place and stops it turning when you undo the bolt. I noticed you take the inner damping slider/tube out an place it to one side, could you measure it and post the dimensions please. My forks are the same units and fitted to a 1968 BSA A50. Thanks Stu

Ive paint my sheldon model 1936 in blue/grey because Ifound the orginal color behind the quick chance gear box ,he have this color now , nice video to see how repaire youre tailstock good luck with him

its identicaly of mine lathe the sheldon 1936 lathe he have the motor upsize nice video Ive mount very much

Could you possibly do a video on what the proper operation is for features of the lathe? Or if you have a link to a manual? I just bought one of these.

Good score! Vintage American Iron... I have an Atlas lathe, would love to upgrade to a Sheldon.

I have gone through the process of restoring a EXL56b. For its size, the machine is very capable. When you were putting the apron back together your carriage drive gear that has a missing/damaged tooth. Most all of the parts of the machine are not very complex to reproduce if need. It will course you a lot of problems if it is not dealt with.

Saudacoes do Brasil.Esta certa essa rosca 1 1/2".Não seria um pouco maior.

Was hoping you’d explain more of what items do and how to use them while you were taking them apart. Maybe down the road. I have this lathe and trying to learn the craft. What’s the small trap door do? Some type of oiling mechanism? Enjoyed the video

Metric isn't French it's international. Bar 1 rediculous example 😂🤣😡

15:18 5L540 Thanks for the video my grandpa has an old Sheldon and it looks like it will need belts sooner than later.

You need about 1 minute to put sugar insaid.... You really like to talk..

This did not show up in my recommended list by accident. The apron on my 80 year old Sheldon lathe is misbehaving at the further end of the bed and i need to find out why. Thanks!

All plating,electropolishing consultant 9426385063

Not a pro by any means but I think your zinc acitate is too weak. It should be very green looking.

I made as you, and had zink flakes, after that i bought the caswell chemicals and the first pieces was good, very bright, then the bath turn red, i found 2 results, the bright part in a few seconds, and the grey finish that need polish, will keep trying

If you need some information about the Sheldon lathe and tooling I have one also. I’m in New Jersey also

If you send me an email address, I'll send you a picture

Tailstock spindle clamp removal: Double nut the tailstock binding stud and unscrew Start with a suitable size bolt (5/16’ - 18 X 3”) from a concrete wedge anchor Machine a short tube to fit over the bolt and slip inside the tailstock spindle clamp Cut a taper into the tube to fit the wedge anchor bolt’s taper and hacksaw slits into the taper at 90 degrees Place the tube over the bold and insert it into the spindle clamp Tighten a nut & washer on the bolt in the taper until secure in the spindle clamp Place a 1” section of 1¼” pipe over the bolt Place a ¼” thick washer (1½” OD 5/16” ID) over the pipe to act as a puller Tighten a 5/16’ - 18 nut on the bolt and the tailstock spindle clamp should pull out