Відео

Ordered from McMaster-Carr. Part No. 9652T14 Clamping Two-Piece Shaft Collar for 6 mm Diameter, 316 Stainless Steel.

I think it would work to some extent, but it would be difficult. The circular discs are small so it could be difficult to hold them and make good contact with the surface. If you don't have a drill to use the pad holder and discs, it's probably better to buy sheets of sandpaper, with the last being 3000 or higher, and a sanding block.

Yes, I use the rubber hockey puck style twist to lock pads in the Porsche jack points. Those then rest on the quickjack blocks when the jack is lifted. The smaller size of the jack pad compared to the blocks keeps all contact with the car away from anything that shouldn't be touched. With this set up and my small yellow ramps, I have no issues with clearance and the jack has sufficient space to start the lift and pressurize before bearing weight.

I have an aftermarket over axle pipe, which causes the last set of positioning brackets for the vacuum lines to be lost. By plugging the lines back into the valves, they hang nicely even with those brackets absent. No contact with anything, no sharp bends, etc. At one point, I bought hose plugs and was going to zip tie them, but decided I liked the more secure option of plugging in and using collars. I plan to do a couple checks soon. First if the collars are staying put, then a few months after that, remove the collars and see if everything is still working/moving freely. I didn't consider a valve controller because I like loud all of the time.

Fair question, I've wondered about this, too. Even without the split collars, the shafts are stopped from moving when they reach the limit. With split collars, they just have a different/shorter limit. And since the movement is caused by vacuum (versus a mechanical motor or actuator), I *think* it should be fine. Time will tell.

Does it ever display anything? I don't have mine set up at the moment, but I'm trying to remember if that screen goes off after a certain amount of time if the keypad hasn't been touched.

Collars are quick and easy. Can be done without even lifting the car. No risk of a CEL.

It's just precut MDF from home depot

Yep, precut panels that I cut some more to create the step up, glued, screwed, and oil based painted.

@@focusedwherever it's almost like you said it in the video at 1:15 and if people watched it they would find out =)

I appreciate the feedback. I don't disagree. Still kind of new at this so working to get the content right. I'm going to check how the collars are doing and post a follow up video. I'll aim to keep that nice and short.

Large decal should be facing towards the front of the car. Be safe 👍

This car is mid or rear engine so sometimes it's better to put it on rear.

This.

What is a OAP?

@@bernardvreulink2457 Over the axle pipes The pipe between the muffler and the header pipes. Which has a gas particulate filter in the oioe now because of new rules the European union mad porsche add to Save the planet ! and destroys the sound. USA cars are nor monitored by the computer so it's can be replaced with no problems.. soul,, fabspeed aftermarket exhaust companies all see them..they have videos on utube on them. Then that with the shaft collars locks open the vacumn valves that the computer controls.

The pipe between the muffler and the header/cat pipe.

I don't think so, but I'm about to find out by doing an oil change. I may add one additional level to my yellow ramps. That would let me safely use the larger QuickJack rubber blocks and give just a little more room to get at the fasteners.

any update? I have a 718 Spyder and will buy the quick jack soon. question is tl-5000 or tl-7000@@focusedwherever

I haven't had a chance to check the access to the panel fasteners and clearance to remove them. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably buy a bigger one. That being said, check the frame specs on the QuickJack website to make sure your choice fits between the tires of a 718. @@borntokill158

2021

@@focusedwherever thank you I jus wanted to know for the paint code.

@@focusedwhereverBeautiful color. Gentian Blue?

Keeping them fully open 100% of the time would produce drone - especially with the stock exhaust.

@@GethinJames Maybe not with the drone delete kit?

@@GethinJames I installed the Soul Performance OAPs with resonators, BMC filters, disconnected the vacuum line and I don't notice any drone.

Flat 6 OAPs offer plugs for the inlet where the vacuum hose attaches.

I also have an OAP and I don't sense any drone with the valves always open. I have a GR Corolla with the stock exhaust and that definitely drones at slow speed in 1st or 2nd gear. In the GT4, it doesn't make any sounds or frequencies that bother me.

It actually scratches the paint on the underside of the QuickJack rather than doing any damage to the floor. There are some videos on YT where people have made it easier to move around, but I haven't done anything like that yet.

Rookie numbers

It was. Here is how it went for me... ua-cam.com/video/Sh8awmUVW4A/v-deo.html

Having same issue just bought a black and decker 12000 BTU and we have a 30x17 single garage at our townhouse that we rent so we cannot drill any holes for vents so we’ve been dumping the exhaust hose with the garage slight opened a tad, it helps but when we’re sleeping we want to keep the AC running in the garage so when we get up and work it’s still cool. Any suggestions? It’s really about where the exhaust can vent. As we have zero windows. Just a door in and the garage door.

Thank you for the suggestion. I took a look. They seem to get good reviews and are reasonably priced. I've posted two follow up videos where I try some adjustments, but I've reached the max temp reduction I'm going to get with my current equipment. Better air circulation would need to be where I focus in any additional changes.

@@focusedwherever If it's anymore help, I believe in Vornado's a lot. I have a 7503 and it moves a ton of air. Use it to sleep at night here in Texas! I bought some for close friends and family and they all love them, plus they have a 5 year warranty on everything. They also have shop fans but I haven't bought one of those. They would hopefully help with air your circuiation needs. I'm gonna watch your follow ups!

You would get mold problems in no time. These expel humidity along with the heat. Plus you'd be taking in hotter, stuffier air from the attic vs cooler fresh air from outside. It's not a good idea.

@@YourLocalFireAlarmTech no what I meant was co through the attic and vent it through the roof. I wasn’t clear.. lol

There is a variation on this idea that could work. There's a room directly above the garage. However, right outside the garage where the portable ac sits, there's a somewhat extended soffit. I could potentially go up through the garage ceiling, make a quick 180 and have it vent out there. I ran a low voltage line through that area once, so I know there's space even for the bigger size of the vent tube.

Braking with the rear wheels causes the nose of the vehicle to dip down. This is why ALL vehicles have more braking power produced by the front brakes versus the rear brakes. Porsche engineers, and in fact, all engineers have a grasp of reality.

That's way too much work. Lol you don't need the pavers. You got two whole pins. Just pull the wheel off and then down to the ground. That's literally the point of the pins.

If I didn't have ceramic brakes, I probably would. Pulling the wheel off is easy. Putting is back on slowly and straight is where this helps the most.

I actually do test this in a later video in the series. ua-cam.com/video/Sh8awmUVW4A/v-deo.html

Dual hose portable acs are superior. Look up technology connections' video about portable acs

@@BigBoyJay_69 I own a very expensive one already for several years in my 3 car garage woodshop! The manufacture even says NOT to and directly in the manual! (only when using in heater mode)

That is not how a two hose system works.

Yeah with the white tape and relatively uniform cuts, it makes it look pretty good and not so obvious that I had to do extra cuts to get them around the strengthening bars. The extra horizontal cuts also allowed me to flex the pieces enough to get them tucked behind the vertical framework of the door, so there are no rough edges showing anywhere.

Indeed. Thank you for your input and watching my videos on this evolving project.

This is a good question. I investigated that in the next video for this project. ua-cam.com/video/Sh8awmUVW4A/v-deo.html