Відео

Yeah I agree, some sheets were soft white wood and others were hard more reddish balsa, the other model I made, the Super Solution, was worse, the stringers were really soft and broke easily just handling it. Thanks for watching..

@@MachineElfI’m building the Bulldog now and the 1/16 stringers are quite soft. I’ve broken a few just handling the model.

@@tomrecane6366 Annoying isn't it, thin cyano is so good at repairing provided you don't break the stick out completely, the way it wicks into soft wood is ideal for balsa models. Good luck with your build..

Thank you for your kind words, still haven't flown it properly just some glides and 200 turn hops in a very small field behind my house surrounded by big trees and bordered by a little river. There is a large sports field not too far away but I need an assistant to guard the winding post and gear in the event of it moving off downwind and me having to go after it..

Thank you, I will, one day, endeavour to make a flight video but motorcycling has me in its grip currently.

Thank you for your comment, yes I will fly it, the weather is here now although it has been very windy recently. Charmingly optimistic which is a nice way of saying un necessary, probably right given the single loop rubber motor, I don't think it'll be an endurance flyer more like a pheasant, a short fluttering burst of power, whatever, it'll be fun..

@@MachineElf And fun is why we do this. Good luck, mate.

Thank you for your comment, yes, both this and the Bulldog model turned out very nicely and I'm pleased with the results.

The quality of the wood is good but variable some sheets are soft some are harder when you get ribs cut from both it kinda suggests that not much grading took place at the laser cutting facility.

@@MachineElf You would think that, cosidereing what these manufacturers charge for their kits, they would use the best balsa. Guillows is the same way. They can't use die cutting as an excuse anymore to use heavy balsa. Even their laser cut kits come with heavy balsa. It seems to be hit or miss with them. For example, if you buy one of their 900 series kits because you want a light weight flyer, you might get fuselage sides that seem like they were made out of bass wood. Sometimes not. There is no expectation of consistency.

Thank you for your suggestion, I may do a bit about it when I do the flight videos..

@@MachineElf alright, awesome!

Thank you.

The fit of the parts is good, the plans are.good but perhaps a bit confusing for beginners, the quality of the wood is vauge, you'll get two sheets of ribs maybe one is soft one is hard but by and large if you take your time and think ahead you should end up with something that looks nice and flys reasonably well.

Thank you for your comment, the tissue was applied with thinned pva glue, water shrunk then a thin coat of clear shrinking dope sprayed on..

Thank you..

An event I'm looking forward to and dreading in equal measures, I want to see it fly and don't want to see it broken. Another month or so and it should be dry enough to give it a chuck..

@@MachineElf field with high grass is the answer

Thank you for your comments, it's 24 " and a bit of a chunky monkey as it came in at 94 grams which is 4 more than the 90 grams the plan predicted, that is with the rubber motor fitted though..

@@MachineElf That's not too bad for a model like that. I built the Dumas 24" Laird Super Solution as light as I could and it came out at 135 grams. But mine has a TeeDee .010 in it.

Did it fly well, what was the glide like..

@@MachineElf The glide is fair, but it could be better, of course. 135 grams is really too much for a decent glide, but I didn't expect it, anyway. As a gas ship, I have run into a problem I didn't expect. The cowling's diameter is so large, the prop slipstream is so small, it won't even flow over/around it on the 3.5x2 Cox gray prop the .010 runs on. I put a 4.5x 2 .020 prop on it, but I can't get it to hold a needle valve setting on it. Those little engines don't like anything except that tiny prop they come with. Even with this little engine, I had to add 7 grams of tail weight, because these racers are so short-coupled. I'd never get it to balance with a .020. I ran it with the .010, but I don't think it was pulling enough to sustain flight around that huge cowling. I'm looking of a tiny.013-014,5 Diesel for it now, which would run a large diameter prop to successfully flow around the cowling. Don't have much hope. Probably will have to convert it back to rubber. I'm the moderator of the Flying Aces page on FB if you want to join in all the related conversations. I have had an electric powered GeeBee R-1/R-2, in the past.

Thanks for your reply..

Thank you for your kind words, I'm currently building another Dumas kit, the Laird Super Solution so another video coming soon..

@@MachineElf that sounds great. I subscribed to not miss it

Hey don't know if you're still looking for a manual, I just bought the heli new and it didn't come with one either... The best I have found is this one, this is the manual for the one the E Razor is cloned from, and it’s very similar for a lot of parts: www.vrhc.co.uk/images/RC_Helicopters/Italy/MSH/PROTOS_500/Protos_plastic_500_fbl.pdf

@@Shay_Nichol Hi Bud, thanks for the reply but I've already found that manual thanks. It is the same heli without the fancy belt drive and Someone was off loading them on eBay at £20 a pop so I bought a few on the basis that it was cheaper to bin it that repair it. So far it has needed some work on the head to get it to work properly, the Scorpion motor isn't going to fit without a bit of trimming of the frame and the motor pinion has an oversize hole in it but that's all I've found up till now. I have to admit that apart from these annoyances the rest of the heli looks well worth what I've paid for it. I looked at turning one flybarless but the parts came out the same as I paid for the kit so it's still old school flybar for me. Update: If anyone's interested I've hit another snag. When I came to test run the heli I found the tail drive pulley and belt don't mesh properly and the belt climbs up on the pulley two or three times a revolution which makes it useless. However, I've had a new pulley 3D printed and successfully run it at half speed for a full pack without any problems, now to see if it stands up to the rigors of flight.