Відео

Here's what they say in the description: 4' to 6'3" tall, up to 250 pounds.

@@rustyforrest5660 ty.

Came up on my recommended lol

@@pinkeyephone6965 Wow, thank you for letting me know!

Just in recommended,

I think its the title combined with the short length. I always click on a video like this.

Same for me, was recommended

I barely let the clutch out to be sure. I'm glad I didn't dump the clutch. I made that be my last run of the day. That's it, I'm done. I was too dang tired to be out there running at all. The Nashville track is pretty demanding and I'm getting to be an old man so I reckon 4 runs in a day is all I can handle. My clutch leg said, "Don't do that any more today."

that interior has the 5 speed tremec

@@danart6286 Damn, I tried to blame the car but I guess he couldn't find 3rd after all if its a tremec.

It's a 2006 with the 5 speed Tremec. The 2-3 shift is a clunk-clunk and my leg was so tired I wasn't even pushing the clutch in all the way so I couldn't find the 3 gate.

@@Mike-jy6mfThat was all (lack of) driver right there. It helps a whole lot to mash the clutch pedal down all the way. 🙂 I was surprised because I didn't think it was even possible to put it in 1st going 50-60 mph but it sure went!

@@rustyforrest5660 I hear ya, was just trying to give you some credit if it was the MT82 6 speed because I've never been a fan of them.

You are way too kind my friend.

Even f I miss the Bus Stop? You're mighty easy to impress, my friend!

Glad to hear it. I've never done one but I've heard they can be a bear to do. I have one I need to do on my Crown Vic but just haven't bit the bullet yet. Mine blows cold then "clunk" it blows hot. Pain in the butt in the summer. Glad yours works now.

Thank you Keith, and yes the air is/was still hot and cold. I've determined that the door actuator solenoid is doing all the banging. I've got a new one but I'm not sure how to get things set right to put the new one in. When I took the old one out I had the temp set to full cold but the shaft on the new one is centered on the arrow - it's off by about 45 degrees, or one whole tooth on the shaft.

Yep.

Maybe you can find something stronger than my great big nail (which kept bending).

Yep, Red's new 39 more horsepower got him back to where he was before with that huge headwind in the mile but in the 2K that was just too much to ask of that too-tall overdrive 5th gear.

Stock (incandescent) only with this harness. They make others compatible with LEDs and programmable too if you want to spend more $$$.

Nope, it's the cheapest one Raxiom makes. There are some other more expensive ones out there with a selector switch where you can program it to do 3 or 4 different tricks but not this one.

Yep! It's hard to not think that while riding it because it goes every bit as fast as a Big Wheel.😃

I put turnbuckles on each corner and put the whole thing together with all the chains slack. Then I tightened the corners until the middle chain got tight and there ya have it. I wouldn't stand on it, it's wood after all! I tightened the corners until the middle supports started bowing and that was it. The mind boggling thing is if you put too much weight on the table or tightened the corners too much, the middle supports would break TOWARD each other.

Hi Mason! Yes, they sure did. One Comp Cam box and one plain white box. The one for the right (passenger) side was in the plain white box. The installation was pretty easy. I recommend inserting the cam into the phaser gear before securing the cam. Otherwise you may have to rotate the cam after you've bolted it in and that's ugly (I've seen the videos). The cam (roller) followers want to fall off while the cam is removed so you have to put them back where they go. I got the fancy wedge on the end of a pole tool to hold the timing chains in place while the phaser was removed. Go put those cams on there!

@@rustyforrest5660 Thanks rusty that is a huge help now I can skip through all the trial and error

I didn't make a video of the job because there are so many videos already available. Go watch 'em, that's how I got enough confidence to do it. Watch several of 'em and you'll see the little differences in how folks do it, including whether or not to attach the cam to the phaser ahead of time. One side on mine was super easy, it dropped right in, but the other side was more difficult until I figured out that some of the lobes on that cam were pushing some of the valve springs open because of how the engine had stopped. I had to attach the phaser journal cap first and then press down on the cam (valve springs) to attach the other journal caps. If you knock the phaser off of the old cam and it makes a pop and you see the old cam rotate a few degrees, you'll know you'll be working against the springs to get the new cam back in. It's not even scary, just make sure you get the followers set back in place before you ever start to tighten the journal caps (if any of the followers fell off while you were messing with the cam).

By the way, the boxes are marked left side/right side in fine print somewhere but you couldn't completely install the wrong one on the wrong side because the length of the ends are slightly different.

Hey there Mike, thank you! I dunno, I still need to have it dyno tuned. It was making 432 hp at the wheels before the new cams and it should be up a little bit more. By now it's got every easy-to-do thing on it except for long tube headers and I think that's too big of a job for a relatively small gain. That's what I'm telling myself anyhow...

Hahaha!!! That made for a pretty good brake check. I'm glad I didn't hit the Porsche...

If the back tires quickly wear out on the edges, the rear wheels need a toe-in adjustment. Maybe they have that fixed from the factory by now, one of ours was way out when it was new but the other one was fine right out of the box.