Відео

If the dials are stuck, then yes it's likely very gummed up and some of the levers are seized in place.

Thank you

True Packard shutters are really nice shutters , though they do make solenoid operated version that this control could work with as well. Except the 120 volt AC one.

You are most welcome. And thank you for your kind words.

@@allensmithphotography The shutter runs like it was brand new and zero parts left over!😃

@@alexanderstavroudis6901 yay

It's a fair question. This is a large format lens with built in shutter. The camera it came on is a 9cm x 12cm folding camera.

@@allensmithphotography okay this is photography only lens then. I was reading about zeiss planar that had compur shutter and they removed that shutter to mount it on film camera. i was thinkinh why would they put shutter in a lens?

Sorry for the late reply, but the shutter in lens was the first steps to integrated shutters. They were made for faster media like film and dry plates in large format cameras and were adapters and evolved into compact and folding cameras.

I have completed the system I'm just working on documenting the software and electronic connections. Then I'll upload a update video with links to the software and 3d models for the case

I can certainly see what I can do to get more detailed footage. Though the shutter blade ring is still the part that moves with the older compur shutters. The big difference being they will often lock in place to prevent unwanted opening

@@allensmithphotography the odd metal ring does not move and it is screwed/secured down with that three tiny spanner screws (you remove in your video part 1 at 26:20 ). how does it move on your shutter at all? it should move easily on a 1/250 th speed ..on newer Compurs this ring is of very different material and it slides easily inside the case.

@@ast3663 the screws do hold it in place but they allow enough clearance that it moves freely. It is a close fit but moves easily in my shutter. It's quite possible in yours that the lubricants have dried out and are sticking the actuator ring in place

Thank you. I have a few final touches to put in it, then I'll be doing a follow-up video with details and the full code and wiring diagrams.

I have no intention to sell them, but they can be built fairly inexpensively. And I will be making publicly available all code and parts lists with wiring diagrams. I'll also include the 3d print models I use. It's actually due to my barrel and process lenses that I'm building this shutter.

@@allensmithphotography that would be awesome! I don’t have a 3-D printer, but maybe I could have it made somewhere else and then make the electronics myself. Yes, this would be wonderful for barrel lenses!

@@lillianvalentine1975 absolutely. There are plenty of print to order services to get 3d prints. Though even wooden craft boxes or small plastic boxes could be used. For myself, it's more convenient to 3d print the casings for the electronics.

That's awesome. I'm hoping, with a better power supply, to get to 1/125th of a second. But with this type and size that's about the limit due to physical limitations of the solenoid.

They'll work on smaller cameras too. I'm just specifically making this one for an 8x10.

You are most welcome. Glad I could help

It's definitely something to be concerned with for pan chromatic materials. But with Ortho it's not the right color to affect it.

Most likely it just needed a gram or so more gelatin. When doing silver emulsion, you mix the halide salts with the gelatin and then mix in the silver nitrate solution to sensatize the emulsion. After letting it mix you add additional gelatin to compensate for the added liquid. I'm sure a similar addition would be needed with dichromate as well. At this point the only options would be to strip the emulsion and recoat the plates or let it sit longer. If you have a fan you can put a filter onto, you can use it to blow air over the plates. That would help them dry. But only put the fan if you can put a filter, otherwise you can get dust inclusions

​@@allensmithphotography So I'm going to throw the rest of this emulsion away, and today I'm going to make another one using this recipe from a different tutorial I found on google, which says to use: 100g of distilled water, 12g of gelatin and 3g of dichromate. What do you do to prevent bubbles in the liquid emulsion?

@@henriquesantos.official hopefully the new recipe works better for you. As far as preventing bubbles, I don't usually worry about it until I coat the plates and at that point any bubbles showing on the plates can be popped

I leave mine for about 24 hours and it's dry enough to put away in the fridge. It may be that where you had yours was too humid and may need a bit more time. Because the emulsion should be leathery after a few hours unless there is too much moisture in the air or maybe some got into your emulsion

@@allensmithphotography I made the emulsion for hologram, distilled water, gelatin and ammonium dichromate 2 days ago, yesterday I coated 2 plates, placed them in a black box and left them, just now I went to look, I touched the edges and they are sticky, I have to leave more days or will they never dry up? it's my first experience.

@@henriquesantos.official it will dry over time. With your next batch, you may want to either reduce the amount of water used or use more gelatin. But this batch will dry with a bit more time.

​@@allensmithphotography Thank you friend for taking your time and answering me. The temperature here is usually around 24C and Humidity: 65% I leave it to dry naturally inside the black box, but I'll check it again tomorrow.

My pleasure. I usually have mine in about 20-24 room temperature but our humidity is very low usually 10-20% so that does help drying times.

Most welcome

Yes. After I cut the glass I use a stone to remove the sharp edges. These particular plates are being reused

That should be up tomorrow. I'm working on the audio for it today