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Nick A
Приєднався 13 лют 2012
IGRIP- BEST SCREW IN STUD
For anybody that’s interested in starting their track the traditional way with carbide studs and backers you should consider this option first-at a cheaper price point and as effective allowing you to stud the outer lugs. iGrip has figured it out.
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Відео
MOPAR- “CLOCK REPAIR” Dash B-BODY and others - Dodge Chrysler Plymouth - 1967 CORONET
Переглядів 6 тис.6 років тому
I ran into an issue with the dash clock on this 1967 Dodge Cornett and I remove the dash to try and repair the lamps and the clock. In the video I didn’t have the contacts all the way in there neutral position so you’ll see that my first attempt didn’t work when I applied the ground wire. If you like what you see please subscribe as other videos will follow.
FORD V8/V10-2 Valve or 3V- EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLT STUD Removal- Drill + Tap Method-Motorhome/RV/Truck
Переглядів 21 тис.6 років тому
I Don't claim to be a hero or a pro but I'm an educated mechanical person that is sharing his struggle so others don't have to... I saved $1500 by doing the labor myself! You can too I'm not paid by any brand and I don't represent these companies. This is what I chose to use based on my budget and reliability research and you may choose differently. Here is a video of what it takes to remove th...
Use welding its very easy..
Great job thank you for the info!!
WoW lots of work But the studs break brake because of over torquing If you install new where the manifold covers the bolt slather with nickle anti seize and a lock washer to 28 ft pds on the nut
Just dynamite the holes
What size tap are you using?
My kit came with line up pins, no mirror needed. I upgraded the bits to solid carbide from Drill America. Way better that the bits with the kit, or cobalt type.
Great Content! Thankyou!
Best way to do it is weld nuts to the studs and take them out
Thank you I'm fixing to go at it
Did you install tunnel protectors? Thanks
www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/manifold-drill-template-ford
What's the name of this tool? Where can fins it.
Please tell what kind of drill bit you use.
www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/manifold-drill-template-ford
How do you know if you need ice screws with a flange or not.i know the flange ones keep the stud from pushing in farther then you want it to while riding or whatever.are the for tires maybe
great vid, i have to do this on my 01 f350 dump v10 now with 10 broken studs
Hi, are the 25 mm okay for a 1.25" lug track and how many for a 137 on a 2012 GSX SE 1200?
How did you remove the broken stud extractor I broke mine in the stud
There is only a few different ways to do that. Use a Carbide Burr and grind it out or trans chip it out with a really small cold chisel. Remember that the extractor is probably tool steel so the bit need to be harder.
i remember my first beer
Very well done better than some pro's. Those extractors can be a pain. What sometimes works well for me is a left hand threaded tap of just the right size. Once it starts to bite in the carcass will start twisting out.
Thanks 👍
Been using these for over 6 years now.... best thing we ever did.... ill NEVER use regular studs again.... like these WAY better....
This is an excellent video with great tunes in the background! I’d say it’s as good as 1A Auto’s videos! One question: When grinding the studs flush, how did you ensure that you didn’t damage the head?
Fixitrighttools.com has a broken manifold bolt extractor set up for about $35 bucks if anyone is interested in it. This is a good, informative video, thanks for sharing !
Good video! Make sure that the entire hexagonal part of the screw is in the lug, only the tapered part and the carbide tip should protrude. The hexagonal part holds the stud to stay in the track.
Thank you very much for recording and sharing this great information. I will tackle this project on my RV in 10 days....Thanks Nick!
Good luck to you - be patient!
I have the clock from a '49-'50 Town & Country and I'm thinking about making it a plug-in clock if I can ever learn enough about old electronics... or maybe I should get the car to go with it ;) Anyway, this clock still looks similar enough to it that this video will probably be helpful when I get around to it. Thanks!
Thanks brother! Nice background music! Yes I hear Journey!!! Awesome!
Great video just got this kit
Thanks and good luck
I’m glad I was able to give you the motivation through education. I’m an industrial mechanic and I’m constantly learning as well.
have you a repair video for speedometers?
I can’t thank you enough for your video. I have 1967 GTX that had a bum clock. I watched your video and thought mine could be salvaged. I carefully removed it from my dashboard and followed your instructions. It is now working for the first time in years. Sometimes I guess you just need a little push you provided to accomplish a task. I am happy beyond words. My car is more complete because of you. Thanks again.
Great and timely video. Need to do on my 4.6 L F150 now and probably later on the F53 V10.
Take your time and try to drill these out as centered as possible so the extraction and tapping goes easy. Remember that if you drill too deep then you'll puncture the cooling jacket in the head and you'll be into the repair for a bit more labor. If you do go into the cooling jacket it's not a complete loss... You can tap the rest of the way and use a set screw with pipe dope to set way in there to plug it back off and seal the hole(Worse case scenario) if need be. Then put in your manifold stud as you would anyways. Hope this insight helps.
Here is where I found replacement studs------> www.metricscrewandtool.com/dave-s-garage
How did they hold up? Any pull out?
Great video. Thanks for making it. Seems simple enough that a little WD-40 would fix the problem. I have the same issue on my '65 Fury. I'll give it a try over the winter!
Just curious on how they work compared to an actual stud? I Just seen there booth at haydays in Mn today and I'm thinking about trying them any feed back would be appreciated, thanks
After watching this super well done video I was checking out cost of all the things needed.. Discovered in my old ago that you can purchase left hand drill bits.. I think by the time you get to the third bit you can switch to a left hand bit and it might just walk out the bolt with the turning of the drill... The bolt in the video did start to turn with the bit at the end but it was turning tight.. When I do this same job on my 2002 motorhome F53 I'm going to give this a try..
I actually have a set of left hand drills. They rarely work for me like most bolt/screw extractors because they are heavily oxidized and bound up in the holes. I live in new england so the weather and salty roads do a number on our vehicles here.
Good tutorial. I have 10 of 10 broken studs on my 2000 F53. Spent the past week trying every trick in the book (including welding). Haven't had a single one budge! On to drilling.
in the same situation with my 97 f53. Welding didnt work, only broke the stud further down. How did the drilling method work? did you use the template?
@@ToogiDesign I was finally able to remove all but 4 studs with a tiny 6" Rigid pipe wrench and breaker bar. I did use the template to drill the rest, it worked ok but requires a lot of adjustment to make sure you're on center. Template was mostly helpful in getting the drill perpendicular to the head. Even with the template, I was only able to use the original threads on 1 hole. The other 3 I had to use helicoils. Good luck!!
Scorcher617- once I got rolling the job went easier. Most of the studs where stuck and needed to be drilled out. Best way I found was to step up the drill size and then run an 8x1.25 tap slowly to free up the old threads from the existing stud. Once it starts to break loose then a pic and a puff of air to remove the rest. Finished chasing the threads and on to the next one. All the videos make this seem easy and it’s not. I’m an industrial mechanic along with being a snowmobile mechanic so utilizing hand tools is a daily routine. One thing is for sure- there is no way to know how bound up each stud was or how stretched these where as they where stuck into the head. Besides the dissimilar metals and I’m not sure why Ford did this. Poor design IMO.
SM AUTO is one of my favorite guys to watch. He’s got some good tips. Needless to say I won’t be doing that job again.
D Hynes- because I was doing a class A motor home there was a bit more room to work on the engine compartment. Most trucks you have to remove the inner fender wells where as I just climbed into the area behind the front wheel. Uncomfortable and time consuming to say the least.
I have a 1997 E Super Duty. Looks like a nightmare. How in the hell did you gain access to those studs? I took mine to a muffler shop (reputable), and got quoted $1750!
Sorry but i missed your comment D Hynes. It was a chore and I dreaded every time i had to drill the next one. You'll need the angle drill and the jig and the inner fender wells made need to be removed for visibility
@@nicka7904 A class C E-series is going to be way worse than your class A motorhome. The inner fender wells are steel and part of the body. I'm not sure you can drill some of them due to clearance issues.
I watched your whole video and it was painful to watch you do that. I know you said your not a pro and that's ok you did a nice job but it took way to long that's what hurt ,you still have more to do. I am a pro and done this so many times and I hate it but after I started welding my studs i would never ever drill or ez-out unless I seen the bolt move. I know you said you tried welding and you see guys weld a nut and it works. If you want to weld don't weld a nut to the stud weld a washer first and don't start your weld on the stud start welding on washer and move weld over to stud then grind it down and weld a big nut on the washer. I'm cheap and won't waste money on washers and nuts I just cut small piece of angle iron and drill the size hole I want to weld in and use a crescent wrench to turn it out. I liked your jig you were smart not to waste $400 for a jig that only does a couple different engines. If I spent $400 on a broken bolt remover its going to have a Lincoln Welder logo on the side of it. There is one thing you should be yelled at for when you had your jig on and drill your first stud with a pilot hole why didn't you move your pilot starter over to other hole and drill it before you took it off. Then you only had to go back and forth from hole to hole before you changed drill sizes. Other than that nice video I know your going to help someone who might want to do this for themselves. This is a long comment but you asked.
I love the 66-67 Mopar b body's, I have a 67 Satellite. I just subscribed and liked your channel, can you do the same for me on my channel.
S M auto repair. Check him out
Stainless Studs and Nuts www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-8-Liter-V10-stainless-exhaust-manifold-stud-kit-Super-Duty-FITS-ANY-6-8L/140727802057?hash=item20c407d8c9:g:Gk4AAOxyTyBSVrKm:sc:USPSFirstClass!01030!US!-1&vxp=mtr Lisle Tool Kit 68500 www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-MANIFOLD-DRILL-TEMPLATE-FOR-FORD-2V-68500/302142002414?epid=3017014114&hash=item46591114ee:g:Aa4AAOSwpvZaOQPg:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!01030!US!-1 V10 Mahle Gasket kit www.ebay.com/itm/Mahle-MS19468-Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket-Set/132358979297?epid=238062299&hash=item1ed135bee1:g:vN8AAOSwzqFY~2pL&vxp=mtr Drill bit example COBALT www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-1-8-Twist-Drill-Bit-M35-HSS-Cobalt-for-Drilling-Stainless-Steel-Metal/231977466208?epid=1073576797&hash=item3602ef3960:g:t1UAAOSwvg9XXihG Harbor Freight Air Angle Drill www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-reversible-air-angle-drill-67474.html Copper Never Seize www.zoro.com/loctite-anti-seize-compound-copper-4-oz-can-51144/i/G3505783/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1-fVBRC3ARIsAIifYOPtA4azn4-GB03MhON66mXMe6jVI79RDiPnv9LEWqh5ppUUKuEdSjwaAj2YEALw_wcB