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Was very good Chris but time that was and is better used making knives.

The parent case is the 24 G shotgun case at 62mm

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My website vongruffknives.com. FB Von Gruff Knives

No, I just chamfer the in and outside of the neck. The Martini chamber does not have a end of case step so while this way of shortening the case is accurate there is not the same need for absolute accuracy in case length as there is for conventional chambers. I have a couple of good pics of a chamber cut away that shows this very clearly but cant post them here.

@@vongruff4732 Thanks Gruff. I'm going to give your method a try.

Thanks Hamish, it certainly saves wrist fatigue but more importantly makes the annealing more accurate and time relevant

It is simply a 19mm deep well socket on a short length of extension from a socket set

Giday Stoney. You can grind a point on the top end of your drill bit and turn it upside down in your drill press. I did that for a start till I ground one to keep specially for the stitching. Even a simple nail of the correct diameter for your stitches works just as well. I ground mine at roughly 30 degree off the square.

G'day VonGruff Thank you. Now I "get it." I wasn't certain about the point? So it becomes more of a "Spade Point bit?" I've always hated "drilling" because it removes material, whereas, the pricking irons "spread" the material allowing it to shrink back down around my stitching, BUT sometimes you just gotta' say "Oh well" and do it... if the leather is too tough to prick through, like 10-11 oz. Veg tanned. Thanks again. I "Liked" your video. When will you do more? I'm a primitive Knife maker for Black Powder shooters. Do you do any knife making? I've not seen any of your videos until now, and that was a chance thing, during a surf for knife sheath videos God bless: Stoney

Yes I make knives, rifle stocks and anything else that needs making, but havent made videos of the actual knifemaking so far. So many of them on youtube I thought mine would just be another of the same although I should do one or two on them on my particular process. Have done a few on handle shaping and have quite a few on diverse subjetcs on my channel so click on my name under the video and you will see the list of them.Have a look at my website for my knives www.vongruffknives.com/

Von Gruff Thanks, I'll look them over. I've been making knives since 1966, but recently started a small online business making Period Correct Black Powder shooting accessories, primarily patch knives. If you email davesmusic13@gmail.com I can send some pics. of my work. Stoney

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Thanks Pascual. I like to share what I have learned as it is the passing on of information that helps us all grow our knowledge base.

It is paraffin wax heated to 240-250 F and it is done after the sheath is finished to form it to the knife. It will hold its shape and the knife securely and the degree of hold can be adjusted by squeezing thr sheath edge to edge to loosen the grip and lightly from the front to the back to tighten it.

Davy, I use parraffin wax and the sheath is completed before hot waxing.

It is 2mm in dia. I have even use a 2mm drill bit reversed in the drill press with the stem end sharpened so if your tungsten carbide electrode is the right dia and you can sharpen it then there is no reason it wont be as effective.

Thanks, it does make it easier when doing a large quantity of brass but also ensures a more accurate placement of the case neck in the flame.

I bought my refractory system as a kit from the australian supplier www.artisansupplies.com.au/product-category/blacksmithing-metalsmithing-and-jewellery-supplies/gas-forge-burners-and-accessories/

Hopefully sooner or later there will be a request for a lefty .

Thanks Glenno