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Borg
Приєднався 31 жов 2014
Laney Ironheart 60w repair
My first up close look at a Laney amp. This one came in with 3 issues and we discovered another very important problem.
Переглядів: 18
Відео
Fulldrive 3 test
Переглядів 9514 днів тому
This was posted to provide info to a customer on a repair gone wrong. It will be deleted shortly.
Silverchamp, Champtone hell I don't know!
Переглядів 2283 місяці тому
Took an old 80's Silvertone amp carcass and gave it a Fender Champ brain. Not sure what to call it.
Testing Tube Testers
Переглядів 693 місяці тому
I show the difference between 2 types of vacuum tube testers and what can go wrong.
Vibrochamp chumps out
Переглядів 5964 місяці тому
This amp just plain quit working. Never really found out why.
Chassis from scratch
Переглядів 1794 місяці тому
My first chassis build for a 5$ garage sale Silvertone carcass. It does have a speaker though.
Junior is misbehaving. Blues Jr that is.
Переглядів 1064 місяці тому
Quick repair video showing Fender Blues Junior having some real issues with tube sockets. Gotta be done in time for the big show.
Shoebox light replacement
Переглядів 1785 місяців тому
Parking lot lights are also called shoebox lights. I will be replacing 2 that have gone bad.
Guitar attacks pedalboard
Переглядів 1245 місяців тому
Line 6 effects board broken after guitar falls on it.
5E3 bias experiment
Переглядів 3436 місяців тому
Do cathode biased push-pull amps have to follow the 70% rule? Randall Aiken suggests that they do not. We will test his suggestion with a Deluxe 5E3. www.aikenamps.com/index.php
Roland Jazz Chorus 50 Unplugged
Переглядів 3,3 тис.6 місяців тому
Quick repair video on a Roland JC-50 where an internal connector worked it's way loose.
Fender Princeton Abuse
Переглядів 5 тис.7 місяців тому
This original Princeton came to me having been modified to more of a Deluxe Tweed which is a completely different type of circuit. The customer asked me to restore it to it's original glory.
Guitar amp noise solved
Переглядів 2687 місяців тому
3 days of spinning my wheels trying to find the problem. I should have known.
Fender Deluxe 5E3 scratch build part 3
Переглядів 6037 місяців тому
3rd and last video of the Deluxe 5E3 build. Install and wire all components. Check voltages, bias output tubes and play a sample with the 5E3. Rob Robinette web page: robrobinette.com/Amp_Stuff.htm Antique Electronic Supply: www.tubesandmore.com/
Fender Deluxe 5E3 scratch build Part 2
Переглядів 4769 місяців тому
Fender Deluxe 5E3 scratch build Part 2
Tweed Deluxe 5E3 scratch build Part 1
Переглядів 1,1 тис.10 місяців тому
Tweed Deluxe 5E3 scratch build Part 1
Using the DRO to copy an uneven profile.
Переглядів 4011 місяців тому
Using the DRO to copy an uneven profile.
A Different Type of Capacitor Leak tester
Переглядів 121Рік тому
A Different Type of Capacitor Leak tester
That's some good quality video from 1970,jk. I got a sony receiver with same protect issue. Gonna have to take out the board and check for cold solder joints. Great video by the way.👍
great project. Nice work!
Nice work !!
right on,I 'm going in tomorrow to check my amp out. After wasting time trying Sony's B.S. fix, which was unplug it wait 30 minutes and it will magically work. LOL or "make sure the speakers are correct ohms"
Im not a tech guy but may i know what specifically is the problem?
Unit goes into what's called protect mode. Nothing works in that mode. That was because many solder joints were bad and not making contact.
Man, I love the fact that you called b.s. on the whole "unboxing" trend and refused to go that way. I get so effing annoyed when people do that, lol! Excellent video, sir!
A nice little amp!
That’s awesome.
That’s my amp! And it sounds great!
I could immediately from the get-go see and hear that we have a master at work here. Subscribed in a heartbeat!
Where did you get the tweed covering? I,I've looked for it but can,t find a supplier!
www.tubesandmore.com/products/tolex-tweed-64-wide-replacement-fender That's where I get it.
The best Hendrix sound I ever got came from my 70's silverface Champ...go figure
If all you are wanting is a player and not a museum piece then by all means go silver. Prices for blackface are way beyond rational unless you are a collector.
This is my amp! Custom deluxe. Sounds amazing. He also re-built my abused ‘58 Princeton amp and rebuilt, my 70ish Vibro Champ. They all sound great. Clear,Bell-like sound just like Leo Fender would’ve wanted.
Thanks for this video, good info! I'm a bit late with this but Sony has provided a bottom opening for accessing the main amplifier board's solder side without the need to yank it out. Just undo six screws and off comes the lid 😁
I noticed on my solid state amp the clipping performs the same as you shown here, top cuts first. Service manual says adjust for even clipping at full volume. It has a 100k clipping adjust resistor near the start of the amp stage.
They really did build those old JC's well. Good clean workhorse amps.
I have a str-de675 with this issue maybe has the same problem
Biasing concepts have been shrouded in mystery for many many years. Much of it comes from the vendors saying untruths about their amp design. Vox is one such vendor; there are many others though. Cathode biased amps are really neat in a few ways. One is that you can essentially bias them as if they were class-A, and they will survive. Mainly because as you play louder and louder, the bias will actually cool off more and more. The biggest concept to grasp is that Cathode biasing does not = Class-A operation. Class-A operation can only exist in single ended designs. If you play loud enough, at some point, no matter how hot you bias a cathode biased, Push-Pull amp, the bias will cool down enough to operate in Class A/B. The big thing to remember is that in Class-A, the tube NEVER shuts off, and is conducting 100% of the time. In Class-A/B, one tube or the other is in cutoff ( not conducting ) for at least some amount of time. If a tube is in cut off, even for a fraction of a second, it is not Class-A operation, period. For cathode biased, push-pull amps, I shoot for about 95% of PD ( plate dissipation ). Much more and you stand a good chance of burning things up permaturely. Anything less than 90% of PD in cathode biased amps is probably going to be too cold, and Crossover distortion will be prevalent. Crossover distortion is the sign of an amp biased close to, if not in Class-B operation. Randall Aiken's White pages are good resource for dispelling myths and BS. There are many old wives tales that exists. And it is true, you can pull all but one power tube in a 100-watt, 4 tube power amp, and it will operate just fine.
Obviously you have come to the same conclusions I have but long before I did. I'm surprised that other amp guys like the Guitologist and Uncle Doug have not mentioned this. Maybe they have and I just have not seen the particular video. One thing though and that is that there are not very many cathode biased push pull amps. I will have to look at some older Vox stuff. Great comments. Thanks.
Great demonstration! I usually shoot for 95 to 99% on a 5e3. I don’t recall ever looking at the scope when checking cathode bias, but I will next time. And yes, crossover distortion sounds nasty. Cool little signal generator - thanks for the tip on that!
@@MikeM-Colorado Finishing up on a AA764 and discovering some interesting issues. Should post it up within a few days. Thanks for the comment.
This is my wakeup call: everyone is saying this is an OLD amp...I see something new!
Right. Old to me is 50's.
I had one of those, and it eventually developed a similar problem. That one is in nearly new condition!
Those are weak connectors and would need significant surgery to replace. One good face flop could cause that to disconnect.
That is an interesting failure. If you have the schematic, I'll bet it shows the reverb in series after the preamp' that's probably why the signal was cutting out completely. Some amps have the reverb in parallel.
It looks to be in parallel but after the preamp stage. It has a footswitch but doesn't need it for reverb like most Fender's. The switch just grounds the signal so it would have to be in parallel. I am not well versed in solid state amps however. I am learning though.
Very interesting look at a cool old amp. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant. I watched from start to finish and subscribed.
Thanx for this... You got my sub... Cheerios (but not the cereal)
Mine is an August '56. (FH on the tube chart) I've had it since 1988. People yell at me when I tell them that I added a bypass cap to the second stage of the 12AX7 and disconnected the negative feedback loop. That makes it really kick ass for harmonica as well. The cabinet on that one looks way better than mine, but that's OK. Mine is ugly enough that nobody wants to steal it. People are weird. when they see it, they hold their noses and get out cans of disinfectant. (It doesn't smell bad, I think modern people smell with their eyes,) They don't want me to bring it into the house, then they hear it, and try to buy it from me for 5 times what I paid for it. There's scene in "La Bamba" where the sax player sees Richie's Tweed Champ: 'What the hell is that?" "It's my amp" 'That looks like something somebody threw away" "Yeah, well it's mine now" The next time mine changes hands will be at my estate sale. I just hope whoever has it after I'm gone will understand it and appreciate it.
The mods you made are easily reversed. What's the big deal? Is yours the 5F2 circuit?
@@borg3575 3 solder joints. 2 on the cap and 1 on the feedback wire. it takes maybe 15 minutes, including taking the back off of the cabinet and heating up the iron . It's the 5F2A without the choke. I don't understand modern people. i think most of them are nuts. Besides, it sounds way better with the extra gain in the preamp from the cap, and not having the negative feedback opens it up and makes more sustain. Rolling back the guitar's volume control or playing with less right hand attack makes it sound stock again. i think most collectors are weirdos.
LOL! Love the unboxing comment ... so much truth brother! Loving this series.
Does the wood you use for the cabinets affect the quality of the tone it produces? It seems everyone worries so much about the woods used in their guitar and they pay no attention to wood where the actual sound comes out of: seems strange to me.
It does affect the sound to a certain degree. You don't want to use construction grade plywood because it has partial voids which may vibrate and emit an awful sound. Solid wood like pine or cabinet quality plywood like Baltic Birch is best although certain types of joinery don't work as well with plywood. As far tone wood on guitars? Put that in the YT search box. You will see endless debate. I am of the opinion that if the wood has much affect at all on an electric guitar tone, it is minimal. Especially when you go through distortion pedals or crank up the gain.
Very cool mate. Looking forward to watching the rest of the series 👍
😮this narrator sounds like "Brad Paisley"
I had to listen to Paisley interview to find out if this was compliment or a slam. He sounds OK to me. Probably knows more about amps too.
There is a better way to modify this in my opinion. I would have simply gone with 2 bias pots. One pot for the push side and one for the pull side. You could then fine-tune the bias on both sides to get the best results.
I see what you're saying. With today's apex matched tube sets there really isn't that much need for a balance adjustment. Perfect balance isn't even that necessary and some would say not even desirable.
I might have implemented the standby switch using an on-off-on 3 position toggle switch on the AC mains so as to avoid any drilling on the panel.
I think you are right. With a DPDT on-off-on I think it could work.
Only issue is the momentary disconnect of the power transformer when switching from stand by to on. I can't seem to find an off-on-on DPDT rated high enough for the B+ though. Although that would be ideal.
@@borg3575 I fully recognize, you will not find an adequately rated DPDT. switch. You can find a 240 volt but not a 350-400 volt one. I think the issue is less with a tube rectifier rather than diodes, hopefully with a rough and tumble 5Y3 vs a pansy GZ34. And if you think about it, when the B+ switch is running +350 and the AC side swings to negative volts you really have a huge voltage differential. I'd still try to resist drilling the panel. Maybe switch to an inline fuseholder and take over the fusepost hole with your stby switch. My activites in tube amp building/repair world mostly date from the 60's and 70's, we never thought much about drilling new holes. Now its sacrilege!
@@borg3575 The other possible solution would be to use a WIDE (and expensive) 4PDT switch and use the widely separated outer terminals only. Costly, maybe you can find a surplus one. But at least you're probably gonna find a high-quality Cutler Hammer or Carling switch instead of a chinesium one. You're still outside the ratings, there's no question about it.
@@alanpecherer5705 I completely understand the sentiment.
Awesome. Very cool project.
Let's be honest a diode-rectified Deluxe with a 12" speaker was a much more giggable amp, before that box became collectable.
I find it sort of curious how Fender never had a 12" dual-6L6 40 watt amp until the 80's. And even those were Riveras, I think. I converted numbers of Princetons and Deluxes (yes, silverface ones) to 40 watt during the 80's. They usually turned into killer little amps. I unfortunately had a Princeton Rev and Deluxe Rev burn up in the No California fires of 2017/2018. I built an extra gain stage into that little Princeton and it had trannies from a Dynaco Mark 4. That amp was one little bastard of a badass amp.
Really appreciate the amp build videos. Im getting ready to attempt one of Robs layouts.
Good choice.
Great stuff, which 10" did you decide on putting in it?
The speaker is a Jensen P10R-F. It's a new speaker modified to sound more like the vintage Fender amps. Thus the "F" in the model. This was also the customer's decision although I didn't disagree with his choice.
Really nice restoration !!! The only negative thing in my opinion was drilling into the control panel to add the Standby switch which is intrusive and pretty useless in spite of the owner thinking he "needs" it. The electronic work and the back panel looks great and the amp sounds wonderful. Would have been cool to hear the amp pushed into some tweedy distortion. What kind of 10" speaker did you end up going with?
I didn't want to add the standby switch but he has no intention of selling it so he didn't care if it was modified. The speaker is a Jensen P10R-F. It a new design.
Not too shabby. Kudos, sir👍
Excellent
WoW Great Video and you do it all. I just subscribed your videos are very interesting.
Very interesting! Thanks a lot!
Aloha, are you able to tell me how to test if one of those IC chips has gone bad and needs replacement? The problem with my amp is that the front right channel is more than 10 db lower than it should be, even in the headphones. I cant find any loose joints or see any thing wrong.
Sorry. I do not. I'm more of a tube guy. You might try pricing those out. They might be cheap enough to just get one and try it.
Thats amazing, I'm sure less voltage like a power strip might have the same effect. Ill keep this in mind, Great informative video!
Never thought of that. Certain kinds of lighting will do it too.
@@borg3575 what kind of lights ?
Fluorescent and some LED. @@blakerayze1726
My one keeps going on protecter mode
I've been looking at ways of doing a 17.1 inch OD brake drum from a 1.5 ton 1956 Chevy truck. One video I saw the drum was wrapped on the outside with a belt to keep the ringing down. I was watching one with a real brake lathe, looks like they use cones and press plates to center the drum on a largish 1" diameter driven shaft. Seems like tooling is needed to replicate this, and use the 4 jaw to make the shaft perfect concentric.
If I was going to do it again I would make up a plate that I could bolt the drum to. The plate would have a shaft that I could center on the 4 jaw. The way I have it is nowhere rigid enough.
Салом алайкум робтай есть
Interesting. Looking forward to more.
I am little upset with you Warren.......you scratched up that great skillet I gave you!! But, all and all you gave me laughs and smiles watching you at work in the kitchen. By, the way this is Deanna!! Smile Smile Smile
Just to be clear, this was not staged. This was how I actually prepared these tacos. And they were really good. My cooking skills are what they are.
This comment comes 10 months late. I don´t even like tacos that much but after watching your talented cooking video i´ll definitely give this receipt ago some day soon! Wish i have these standing shells in the markets near me :). Thanks man! [edit] Oh and loved the humor and choices in words. Close to what i like to use haha.
😂😂😂😂😂❤
Bonjour . Au son du TIC TAC dans la vidéo , cette pendule n'est pas bien d'aplomb . Sinon beau travail pour la remise en état de la caisse .