- 48
- 37 892
Borg
Приєднався 31 жов 2014
Відео
Mu-Tron Phasor II not phasing
Переглядів 992 місяці тому
Phaser pedal from the 70's needs a little TLC. We will try to get it back in service for maybe another 50 years.
64' Princeton Reverb in for a checkup
Переглядів 9722 місяці тому
I get a chance to look through this blackface classic. The owner had done a recap and retube and wanted me to look it over.
Fender Hotrod Deluxe not reverbing
Переглядів 2363 місяці тому
This video looks at reverb tanks and how to tell if you have a bad one.
Fulldrive 3 Part 2
Переглядів 1833 місяці тому
In part 2, I explain what actually happened which was not in Part 1.
Shaker doors
Переглядів 1003 місяці тому
Decided to build some cabinet doors for a friend. I actually get a lot of relaxation and satisfaction out stuff like this. Still going to charge him though.
Laney Ironheart 60w repair
Переглядів 5933 місяці тому
My first up close look at a Laney amp. This one came in with 3 issues and we discovered another very important problem.
Fulldrive 3 test
Переглядів 1084 місяці тому
This was posted to provide info to a customer on a repair gone wrong. It will be deleted shortly.
Silverchamp, Champtone hell I don't know!
Переглядів 2377 місяців тому
Took an old 80's Silvertone amp carcass and gave it a Fender Champ brain. Not sure what to call it.
Testing Tube Testers
Переглядів 847 місяців тому
I show the difference between 2 types of vacuum tube testers and what can go wrong.
Vibrochamp chumps out
Переглядів 6227 місяців тому
This amp just plain quit working. Never really found out why.
Chassis from scratch
Переглядів 1898 місяців тому
My first chassis build for a 5$ garage sale Silvertone carcass. It does have a speaker though.
Junior is misbehaving. Blues Jr that is.
Переглядів 1268 місяців тому
Quick repair video showing Fender Blues Junior having some real issues with tube sockets. Gotta be done in time for the big show.
Shoebox light replacement
Переглядів 2139 місяців тому
Parking lot lights are also called shoebox lights. I will be replacing 2 that have gone bad.
Fender Deluxe 5E3 scratch build part 3
Переглядів 99611 місяців тому
Fender Deluxe 5E3 scratch build part 3
Using the DRO to copy an uneven profile.
Переглядів 41Рік тому
Using the DRO to copy an uneven profile.
A Different Type of Capacitor Leak tester
Переглядів 127Рік тому
A Different Type of Capacitor Leak tester
I have always heard that the first channel has a better sound. The reason they say is because of what happens when it goes through the Reverb conversion thingy. Conversion may not be the right word but I think you know what I'm saying
What about any "death caps"? Also, using Deoxit Gold on pots and contacts is good practice.
I usually recommend bypassing the D cap. Especially if I am replacing the line cord. The entire discussion needs a video of it's own. I am also a switch before fuse guy.
I'm just a player. But it seems that JJ's are more modern-sounding (having a wider dynamic frequency response) than say a Winged C.
I got a hernia just looking at that amp.
It's a bit too much for me. The old back is not what it once was. I had a Fender Super Six back in 72. It had a 100 watt amp with 6-10" speakers in a combo. It was a Kick A ** amp but people didn't like it because of the weight. Basically the exact same circuit as the Twin of the same era. I still have it but It's a separate head and cabinet with 2 -12" Eminence speakers. I need to do a short video on it.
@@borg3575 If I recall, I think Waylon Jennings used 2 Fender Super Six's.. Hats off to the roadies that had to lug those on the stages night after night. -- Thanks for uploading this video.
You absolutely CAN retension the mini 9-pin tube sockets, with a tiny jewelers screwdriver or dental pick; I've done it many hundreds of times over my 50+ years of audio electronics repair. It seems I'll have to post a video showing how......and also, how to replace a broken socket contact rather than having to replace an entire socket just because one contact broke (perhaps necessitating drilling out rivets on some amps such as Silvertone, Danelectro etc), which I've seen other techs do, making unnecessary additional work for themselves. One other thing; leaving the earth ground and power supply grounds connected to the transformer bolts is a bad idea; those connections invariably loosen with transport and speaker vibration. Modern electrical code specifies a dedicated earth ground connection; soldering the green wire directly to the chassis is more secure, and safer. Same applies to the negative-bias ground; if that ground loosens it spells disaster for transformers. Get out the BIG IRON and solder it direct to the chassis.
Thanks for the tips. I have only run into a couple of the 9 pin sockets that were loose and decided to replace them instead. I need better eyes for that up close work. I have heard that direct chassis soldering is better as long as you have a hot enough iron which I don't. I'll keep my eye open for one.
@borg3575 , I use Optivisor magnifying headbands. They have high quality glass lenses and are comfortable to wear.
Wow. What a sound
Hello Gentleman, great information and equipment you have! I have this amp and I changed the power tubes because a crackling sound when volume at max, now it sounds great when cranked but the bias never set down to 30mV on one side, minimum I got in that side is 70mV. Any comments from you will be helpful.
I have the same receivers that I turned on my receiver this morning and it says protect mode not sure what’s going on. Also, it gets kind of warm when playing for an hour and a half. This is the first time I’ve been into this protect issue. I’m running a 4.1 surround sound Two. Clips subwoofers, and two tower speakers by klipsch do I need to rewire my set up again is the receiver good enough to run the my set up the receiver I think was $400 bought it three years ago
Hola, cual es el punto débil de éste amp?
All around solid amp except for the fact that it uses PC boards for most of the circuits. But that is true of most modern tube amps. Boutique amp builders like me still use point to point wiring and I think a couple of the big guys still offer some but they are expensive. I would still recommend this amp.
@@borg3575 PCBs aren't a bad thing since 1980, unless you have a Marshall. Marshall can't design PCBs to save their lives.
hmm it does not look original, more like an almost exact clone - speaker is no the original one, sticker as well
The date code on the chassis is 1964. The speaker is not original as I said in the video. It was made in 2009.
@@borg3575 ok!
Hey Borg, I really enjoyed this series! I just got done building a replica 5E3 cabinet following the same plans. I was wondering, in regards to the leather handle, how far apart are the 2 metal brackets that hold it supposed to be? Is there an official Fender spec? I just kinda want it to look as close to the real thing as possible and I don't have another tweed amp to use as reference. Awesome job on yours and it sounds great!
What I did was lay the handle flat on top and slide the spike of the bracket to the inside of the slot on each one then mark it. That way it gives you some slack to get your fingers under the strap.
Wow, really cool and thank you for sharing! My father recently passed and left behind an interesting stereo I want to keep but it starts in protect mode. Which is a shame because it has a dock for a gen 1 iPod (which he has) and I could dock/listen to his entire music collection. Not sure if his situation is the same, I had taken it apart and seen some videos showing a failed fan can cause this error. The fan is standard 3pin/2wire connector but it's thinner than a PC fan so I'll have to pop by a hardware store and see as it seems fairly common. Regardless, if that's not it, it "could" be an issue with the ICs but before dedicating any amount of time into this (as I'm pretty inundated atm) I just can't see myself ever getting around to it and they're taking up space. I guess this is why they say one mans trash is another mans treasure.
Boy. Those innards are clean and beautiful. BTW: Been playing jobs since 1963 (retired in 2002) ... played MANY jobs with the dreaded "death cap" and ground switch. In fact: I NEVER played a job without them! Still here in 2024. But I can understand your concern! Good on you.
I found out about death cap issue the hard way. Stepped up to the mic at the beginning of a show and got a nice loud pop and a little burn on my lip because my amp was reversed from the PA. After that I knew to touch the mic with my hand first. I am planning on doing a video that shows what I'm talking about. It's not a life threatening situation unless the cap fails in a dead short.
Can’t watch. Hold the camera steady!!!!
Sorry. For some of the closer shots I have to use my phone and it does not have any stabilization.
Why would higher plate voltage and decreasing the plate current cause Crossover Distortion issues? compared to lower plate voltage and high plate current has less crossover distortion.
Aiken describes how it works here: www.aikenamps.com/index.php/what-is-crossover-distortion You can also watch my other video on biasing to actually see it. ua-cam.com/video/Jeqo77I15fs/v-deo.html I hope the links work.
I added this reply yesterday but it disappeared for some reason. Anyway, read this tech paper by Aiken Amps. He's an actual engineer and he explains crossover distortion. www.aikenamps.com/index.php/what-is-crossover-distortion
Nice video - I enjoyed seeing how its put together and hearing your views/knowledge.
Hi Borg! Ive modded this series of amps since 1999.....i like ta put a Military spec chip carrier in the reverb n channel switch opamp spot, the fx loop, i dont..........cheers!
Nice work. If you do another in the future use a hair dryer or heat gun to help make the tweed more pliable and to reactivate the glue. Heat works.
If I do anymore tweed I will for sure try the heat gun.
The toroidal power transformer is a clue about the build quality.
Do you like that type of power transformer?
Toroidal transformers are great, 99% of the specs are better compared with traditional EI transformers when rated for the same purpose. The amount of amps I've seen with buzzing sounds, either mechanical or electrical, because of EI transformers, just makes me want to replace all my amps with toroidal transformers 😂😂
Very well made video. Awesome job! Thank you for sharing this.🎸🎶
Very thorough and educational! Thank you for all your knowledge and skills. Very impressive! Can't wait to see your next podcast. Have a great one...👍
That's some good quality video from 1970,jk. I got a sony receiver with same protect issue. Gonna have to take out the board and check for cold solder joints. Great video by the way.👍
great project. Nice work!
Nice work !!
right on,I 'm going in tomorrow to check my amp out. After wasting time trying Sony's B.S. fix, which was unplug it wait 30 minutes and it will magically work. LOL or "make sure the speakers are correct ohms"
Im not a tech guy but may i know what specifically is the problem?
Unit goes into what's called protect mode. Nothing works in that mode. That was because many solder joints were bad and not making contact.
Man, I love the fact that you called b.s. on the whole "unboxing" trend and refused to go that way. I get so effing annoyed when people do that, lol! Excellent video, sir!
A nice little amp!
That’s awesome.
That’s my amp! And it sounds great!
I could immediately from the get-go see and hear that we have a master at work here. Subscribed in a heartbeat!
Where did you get the tweed covering? I,I've looked for it but can,t find a supplier!
www.tubesandmore.com/products/tolex-tweed-64-wide-replacement-fender That's where I get it.
The best Hendrix sound I ever got came from my 70's silverface Champ...go figure
If all you are wanting is a player and not a museum piece then by all means go silver. Prices for blackface are way beyond rational unless you are a collector.
This is my amp! Custom deluxe. Sounds amazing. He also re-built my abused ‘58 Princeton amp and rebuilt, my 70ish Vibro Champ. They all sound great. Clear,Bell-like sound just like Leo Fender would’ve wanted.
Thanks for this video, good info! I'm a bit late with this but Sony has provided a bottom opening for accessing the main amplifier board's solder side without the need to yank it out. Just undo six screws and off comes the lid 😁
I noticed on my solid state amp the clipping performs the same as you shown here, top cuts first. Service manual says adjust for even clipping at full volume. It has a 100k clipping adjust resistor near the start of the amp stage.
They really did build those old JC's well. Good clean workhorse amps.
I have a str-de675 with this issue maybe has the same problem
Biasing concepts have been shrouded in mystery for many many years. Much of it comes from the vendors saying untruths about their amp design. Vox is one such vendor; there are many others though. Cathode biased amps are really neat in a few ways. One is that you can essentially bias them as if they were class-A, and they will survive. Mainly because as you play louder and louder, the bias will actually cool off more and more. The biggest concept to grasp is that Cathode biasing does not = Class-A operation. Class-A operation can only exist in single ended designs. If you play loud enough, at some point, no matter how hot you bias a cathode biased, Push-Pull amp, the bias will cool down enough to operate in Class A/B. The big thing to remember is that in Class-A, the tube NEVER shuts off, and is conducting 100% of the time. In Class-A/B, one tube or the other is in cutoff ( not conducting ) for at least some amount of time. If a tube is in cut off, even for a fraction of a second, it is not Class-A operation, period. For cathode biased, push-pull amps, I shoot for about 95% of PD ( plate dissipation ). Much more and you stand a good chance of burning things up permaturely. Anything less than 90% of PD in cathode biased amps is probably going to be too cold, and Crossover distortion will be prevalent. Crossover distortion is the sign of an amp biased close to, if not in Class-B operation. Randall Aiken's White pages are good resource for dispelling myths and BS. There are many old wives tales that exists. And it is true, you can pull all but one power tube in a 100-watt, 4 tube power amp, and it will operate just fine.
Obviously you have come to the same conclusions I have but long before I did. I'm surprised that other amp guys like the Guitologist and Uncle Doug have not mentioned this. Maybe they have and I just have not seen the particular video. One thing though and that is that there are not very many cathode biased push pull amps. I will have to look at some older Vox stuff. Great comments. Thanks.
Great demonstration! I usually shoot for 95 to 99% on a 5e3. I don’t recall ever looking at the scope when checking cathode bias, but I will next time. And yes, crossover distortion sounds nasty. Cool little signal generator - thanks for the tip on that!
@@MikeM-Colorado Finishing up on a AA764 and discovering some interesting issues. Should post it up within a few days. Thanks for the comment.
This is my wakeup call: everyone is saying this is an OLD amp...I see something new!
Right. Old to me is 50's.
I had one of those, and it eventually developed a similar problem. That one is in nearly new condition!
Those are weak connectors and would need significant surgery to replace. One good face flop could cause that to disconnect.
That is an interesting failure. If you have the schematic, I'll bet it shows the reverb in series after the preamp' that's probably why the signal was cutting out completely. Some amps have the reverb in parallel.
It looks to be in parallel but after the preamp stage. It has a footswitch but doesn't need it for reverb like most Fender's. The switch just grounds the signal so it would have to be in parallel. I am not well versed in solid state amps however. I am learning though.
Very interesting look at a cool old amp. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant. I watched from start to finish and subscribed.
Thanx for this... You got my sub... Cheerios (but not the cereal)
Mine is an August '56. (FH on the tube chart) I've had it since 1988. People yell at me when I tell them that I added a bypass cap to the second stage of the 12AX7 and disconnected the negative feedback loop. That makes it really kick ass for harmonica as well. The cabinet on that one looks way better than mine, but that's OK. Mine is ugly enough that nobody wants to steal it. People are weird. when they see it, they hold their noses and get out cans of disinfectant. (It doesn't smell bad, I think modern people smell with their eyes,) They don't want me to bring it into the house, then they hear it, and try to buy it from me for 5 times what I paid for it. There's scene in "La Bamba" where the sax player sees Richie's Tweed Champ: 'What the hell is that?" "It's my amp" 'That looks like something somebody threw away" "Yeah, well it's mine now" The next time mine changes hands will be at my estate sale. I just hope whoever has it after I'm gone will understand it and appreciate it.
The mods you made are easily reversed. What's the big deal? Is yours the 5F2 circuit?
@@borg3575 3 solder joints. 2 on the cap and 1 on the feedback wire. it takes maybe 15 minutes, including taking the back off of the cabinet and heating up the iron . It's the 5F2A without the choke. I don't understand modern people. i think most of them are nuts. Besides, it sounds way better with the extra gain in the preamp from the cap, and not having the negative feedback opens it up and makes more sustain. Rolling back the guitar's volume control or playing with less right hand attack makes it sound stock again. i think most collectors are weirdos.
LOL! Love the unboxing comment ... so much truth brother! Loving this series.
Does the wood you use for the cabinets affect the quality of the tone it produces? It seems everyone worries so much about the woods used in their guitar and they pay no attention to wood where the actual sound comes out of: seems strange to me.
It does affect the sound to a certain degree. You don't want to use construction grade plywood because it has partial voids which may vibrate and emit an awful sound. Solid wood like pine or cabinet quality plywood like Baltic Birch is best although certain types of joinery don't work as well with plywood. As far tone wood on guitars? Put that in the YT search box. You will see endless debate. I am of the opinion that if the wood has much affect at all on an electric guitar tone, it is minimal. Especially when you go through distortion pedals or crank up the gain.
Very cool mate. Looking forward to watching the rest of the series 👍
😮this narrator sounds like "Brad Paisley"
I had to listen to Paisley interview to find out if this was compliment or a slam. He sounds OK to me. Probably knows more about amps too.