Відео

Hello.. Both OEM omega parts, bracelet and clasp that is. The US solid end link doesn't fit for some odd reason, so I had to go with the hollow version which allows more adjustments. Bracelet also fits my Aqua Terra and Speedmaster 3861. Looks and fits the Speedy the best IMO. Your local Omega boutique is your best bet no matter what watch you plan to install it.

@@MrDucatiti I see what you did there. You bent the hollow end link to fit the SMP 300. LOOKS INCREDIBLE! This is a great bracelet to replace the non-tapered 5-link 1990s one it comes with. I may have to look into this for mine. Thanks

Lol.. Not gonna lie, I have no idea what music was playing. My wife was watching something when I installed the bracelet the first time. Random video with a random song playing on the background.

Around $300

Yes

Very helpful info although my gun is just sitting lol. Thank you.

​@@MrDucatiti I'm sure you've been told this multiple times by now, but yes, he and everybody else is correct. This is just going to be tolerances from factory based on the firearm and its specifications but that amount of play that you have in yours is quite minimal. I now own only sigs, and CZ's and I can say this, IMO the best handgun manufacturers right now. Sig is just truly a unbeatable Design.. and could survive being hit by a Nuke lol... my P226 Mk25 Is 1500$ and has more play than yours. But it's normal. And like the guy above me said that thing could be basically rocking back and forth. The only thing that matters is that the guide rod is in good functioning order and the barrel assembly does lock in place with the slide closed. Those will be the main factors in accuracy and performance of what we're talking about here.! 🤙 Hope some of that helped! P.s. I also recommend trying a CZ 75 Or a P10 full size. They also have a play like this but are some of the best shooters made today. 🔥 and awesome to shoot

Secret

$800 would be lucky if not robbery

@SS shhh 🤫

With these guns that’s as far as you can get the pre travel to go away without making sear modifications. I cajunized mine and my take up with the pre travel screw set is around this much. I think it’s because of the firing pin block safety but I’m not sure.

Mine does not work anymore despite replacing the camera. It has been years so I don't remember. Sorry not of any help here.

Have any videos to share to compare? Thanks for watching. If I would do it again, I would just leave it stock but then again, we all love to tinker and/or modify things :)

@@MrDucatiti not yet but I'll probably make one once I take it out to shoot. And speaking of tinkering with things lol it wasn't even an hour ago that I was looking closely at the gun and noticed a tiny bit of a squishy feeling in the trigger right before the break and discovered that the sear cage had about a .020" thou gap between it and the back of the frame, and was causing the entire sear cage and hammer assembly to move backwards a little bit when pulling the trigger which was causing the flex right bedore the break. I solved it by supergluing a couple small shims onto the sear cage, and I thought the trigger was nice after installing the standard package, now that I shimmed it it has an _immensely_ crisp break. Take a look at yours and see if it's doing that, you just need two little 3/32" square pieces of shim (I used some thick paper) superglued into the two little recessed spots on the back of the sear cage and it will really tighten up the break. You can see if it's doing it by sticking your face right up into it and watching for any movement in the hammer or sear cage, if they rock back a little bit right before breaking you should look into trying it. Considering it only costs a few minutes of time with readily available materials it makes a world of difference.

@@TheExplosiveGuy You must be a pro. This is why I had Cajun do mine.. I wouldn't know how to fix it if I did it myself. A little peace of mind as well as I don't trust myself for a semi-major overhaul.. But for Glock, SIG, Beretta, I am more confident.

@@MrDucatiti I _was_ a machinist for 17 years and an aircraft mechanic for 3 years so complex assemblies aren't that daunting for me, but honestly once you build the mindset for it its actually rather easy. If you sat down and started exploring your CZ while watching a few disassembly videos (there are a ton of resources here on YT) you could learn a lot about how to improve or repair your gun, you just need to have a patient mindset and take advantage of all resources like YT videos and forum posts, and as you take things apart stage them in the order you removed them so everything goes back in the right order. The SP-01 is definitely a complex assembly of teeny tiny parts and pieces but I can strip that gun down completely down to the pins and springs and put it right back together now that I've spent some time working on it. To be honest I was actually a little leery myself when I was disassembling it for the first time, but with a little practice it becomes muscle memory. If you want I can make a quick video on where to put those shims, the sear cage is easily removed, you just take the slide off, and then in front of the hammer look for the little spring sitting in a groove in the rod that connects the safeties together and pop it up and over to the side with a pick, and the left side safety will then be able to be pulled out, which will allow the sear cage to lift up and out and from there you glue the little shims on then reverse the process, it's pretty easy.

@@MrDucatiti OK so I did even more work on my gun again, I removed the firing pin block and cut the bottom of the FPB lifter arm off (have to take the sear cage apart for that, definitely gunsmith territory if you're not comfortable), it shortened the reset substantially. It does take away a bit from drop safety but I don't plan on dropping a $2k gun lol. I made a quick 10 second video to show the trigger pull and reset, it's kind of ridiculous now. The trigger breaks at under 2 pounds now and the reset distance is about 1/16" of an inch, removing the FPB and the lifter arm removed about 1/8 of an inch from the reset. ua-cam.com/video/Cbn1beJTWFo/v-deo.html

Hi Roops.. For the record, Eufy is well aware of this issue. This is why the sent a replacement ASAP without the need for me to send the defective unit. Props to Eufy for this.

@@MrDucatiti I've had one of mine get a little stiff like this on a few bad closings. A little giggle and the clutch frees up. It's also been _relatively_ easy to move even with the clutch engaged like this. Was yours a AA or LIon type?

@@relativityboy HI! Been a while buy Eufy shipped me a replacement. LIon battery type fyi.

Eufy, just shipped out a replacement today and provided a shipping label for me to return the defective item. Actually, I created this video for Eufy...Thanks for watching.

@@MrDucatiti how is the replacement? I really want this lock because I already have their doorbell but I am going to decide on this or the yale.

@@lakeatman504 Hello Lake Atman. I haven't gotten the time to install. Per Eufy, if I don't return my existing unit, the warranty will be void. Actually, I already had the Yale lock on hand from BestBuy when I purchased the Eufy. Eufy just has more features to include the fingerprint reader and rechargeable battery...

@@lakeatman504 And yes, works great with the doorbell integration. Having both in one app is great. You even have the option to lock the door on the doorbell app interface, plus you have free video storage unlike other brands. This is what sold me. Plan to buy cameras as well. Just waiting for another sale or so.

@@MrDucatiti thanks , yeah those features really makes me want to get eufy over Yale. And yes having one app is so much easier.

Out of the box it’s around 4 pounds. This guy has had trigger work done on it. There are different sites and a different trigger on it as well.

If I recall correctly, needs to be done to fit.

I had this installed by the depo dealer, not actually me cutting it fyi.

@@MrDucatiti ahh oke what exactly do you need to cut?

That's a heck of a deal!

I am thinking about converting to sao also

Wish I read this before I bought it and took it apart. I bent the starter punch trying to get hammer pin out... just buy another strut if you can!!

Still good as new! But then again, I've only gone thru 1000 rounds or so.

I’ve had mine as a regular defensive gun for a few months. It gets set on countertops all the time and thrown in glove boxes. The areas in contact with surfaces are now starting to polish to a nice shine. The wear actually looks good.

Yes but just got bored. Nothing wrong with the stock SRT but was on a modding phase for all my guns.

@@MrDucatiti Nice, its one piece I am working on getting. I'm finally getting my hands on mk-25, and the scorpion will be the next one i get.

@@familygromscarsfun3896 Why bother getting two P226's? Try a Cajunized SP-01 :)

@@MrDucatiti It is definitely on my list, I've heard nothing but good about that one as well. But I like sig's a lot and this is the closest thing I can get next to a legion, without paying a crazy amount from a private party transfer here in ComiCali.

@@familygromscarsfun3896 I was at a frantic buying phase here in CA with the 30 day wait but stopped at five pistols consecutively: Springfield 1911, 92fs, G17, P226, then the SP-01. Modded them all but eventually moved to another hobby.

Just the trigger bar.. didn't touch the hammer.

I have an Italian-made 92FS. I DID have to remove some material from my hammer using a brown india stone. Langdon has a fit video on UA-cam showing this (search langdon opp trigger bar). It’s an update to an old video showing removal of material on the trigger bar itself. Don’t do this...it will also impact your SA reset. Just 3 or four passes on the hammer as shown in the Langdon video.

Around $350 when they were still available New Years ago circa 2013 or so..