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No, I don't have a tutorial for that. If you want to have overlap, you could just skip making the white masking rectangle. Or if you want a measured amount, when you start to make the grid, make one rectangle the size I did, and another inset a half inch (or whatever) from that. Make the larger rectangle a light color and put it on a layer that does not print. Then group both rectangles together, and make a grid by duplicating them and aligning the corners to the smaller rectangle. Make the drawing window on the paper the size of the larger rectangle.

@@growyourownclothes8442 ok i will try to do as you taught. Thank you very much for answering my question 😍

I haven't used Inkscape for a while, so I'm not sure I have any helpful suggestions, other than make sure your page border is turned on (File menu, Document Properties) and the objects you want to put in the pdf are within the page border. If that's not it, I don't know, try a Google search.

If you mean you don't want to see the lines, you can turn off the stroke: Select the object, then on the bottom left of the screen, right-click on the colored box to the right of the word "Stroke" and select "remove stroke" from the pop-up menu. It could also be that you have multiple copies of the border on top of each other, and you need to delete the extra one(s). If you mean that the smaller rectangle is not being cut out from the larger one, make sure that the smaller rectangle is on top (select the larger one and hit the Page Down button on your keyboard until you see the smaller one on top of the larger one). Then select both rectangles and re-try the difference command. Also maybe try closing and re-opening Inkscape, if that doesn't work.

I'd meant to make a blog post to go with the video, but hadn't gotten to it. Here it is: growyourownclothes.com/2023/10/02/thrifty-fox-spinning-wheel-with-scotch-tension/ I don't have a lot of pictures or details on how I made the bobbin and flyer. Unless you have access to a lathe and other tools already, I would say it would be cheaper (and definitely way easier) to just buy a flyer and bobbin designed for a single drive scotch tension wheel, like the Ashford standard or jumbo flyer.

Yes. It's some machine-carded wool from a garage sale. Not sure what kind it is.

Yes, thanks to Inkscape developers and the Page Tools, now we can save lots of time.

DXF is one of the options available in Save As. I haven't tried it, so I don't know how well it works.

DXF is one of the options available in Save As. I haven't tried it, so I don't know how well it works.

Make sure the part of the drawing you want to export is in the Inkscape page outline, and choose "Use document's page size" when you export. I'm not sure what else could be the problem. I haven't used Inkscape lately.

@@leilah6604 thank you, I will try it again. What do you mean with "outline"?

@@elpam8888 The page border. Go into the File menu, and select Document Properties. On the Page tab, make sure "Show page border" is checked. Only objects inside the page border will be saved to a pdf. Then to zoom to it, either press 5 or go to the View menu, select Zoom, then Page.

When you go to save as pdf, did you have the same options selected as I did in the pdf dialogue box? I have "Use document's page size" selected. If that is not the problem, I'm not sure what setting you need to change. I haven't been using Inkscape a lot lately.

Solved it for some reason my border was a group. Ungrouped and it turned back to a path.

That sounds like it would be faster for personal use, but wouldn't work for someone selling patterns, for example. Many people need instructions even to print a pdf to scale, so expecting them to do a poster print would be frustrating for them.

I don't think Inkscape can make a layered pdf. You would have to get Adobe Illustrator or a CAD program for that.

Make sure you have enabled object snapping, and you have selected. I usually turn on everything in the "nodes, snaps, and handles category. Unfortunately, snapping is sometimes buggy, and they don't always work. You could try restarting the program, or even restarting your computer. On some occasions I've given up trying to get the object to snap, and I just zoom in really close and get it as close as I can visually.

Select the rectangle, then look on the bottom left of your window. You will see "Fill" and "Stroke". Right-click on the colored block to the right of "Fill", and select "Remove fill". Or alternatively, select the rectangle, then select Object>Fill and Stroke from the menu, and edit it there.

I don't know of any other home sergers that look like they would be easy to convert to treadle. I wondered about industrial machines, too, especially the older ones, but I don't have one. I don't know if they would need more force to treadle, but many of them have an exposed hand wheel that a treadle belt could fit on.

@@leilah6604 that's kinda what my husband was figuring. It might not be quite as fast as with electricity, but as long as there is no computer involved with settings, it seems possible.

I am not sure what you are asking, exactly. These are the two blog posts that I wrote on Inkscape, which might help you get started with Inkscape: growyourownclothes.com/2014/10/30/tips-for-pattern-drafting-with-inkscape/ growyourownclothes.com/2015/04/03/creating-tiled-pdfs-in-inkscape/

@@growyourownclothes8442 I not sure how to set up the numbered pages are they each a 8 x 11 1/2 sheet of paper or a paper (drawing surface) divided into sections?

I am reading your blog posts right now and thank you for all your work

@@sherylanndunkle1440 First I made my entire drawing actual size. Then I drew a 7" by 10" grid on top of it. I grouped everything together (drawing, grid, and page numbers), then moved the group around so that one tile was centered on the print area (called the "Page" in Inkscape). I masked off the edges as described in the video, saved that page as a pdf, then moved the entire group over so the next tile was centered over the print area, made another pdf, and repeated for each page.

I've seen them come up for sale reasonably often on shopgoodwill.com and ebay. I got my first one on shopgoodwill, then realized it was missing a part, so I bought another on ebay. There is usually at least one for sale on one of those sites, but you take the risk of shipping damage if you buy from an auction site. An 11 hour drive sounds like a bit much for me-personally, I chose to take a risk with having it shipped! OK, I just checked ebay, and there are several BL3-407 sergers for sale in that price range, so they are not super rare. Oh, and there is one on shopgoodwill with the title "Vintage Husqvarna Baby Lock Serger Sewing Machine". You have to be creative with your search terms on shopgoodwill, or just browse through everything in the "sewing machine" category, because they often get the title wrong. But you can sometimes get a much better deal than on ebay. If you are set on buying one locally, you might want to get that one, because finding a specific machine locally can be much more challenging.

@@growyourownclothes8442 Awesome, I will try eBay and see if there are ones on there local to me. I agree about shipping, I’ve heard of both bad and good experiences. And I’ll check the Goodwill local auctions too. Thank you so much for all the info and advice! :)

@@growyourownclothes8442 Hi! I just wanted to share that I found one on eBay. I'd always heard horror stories of them coming broken from shipping, and was wary at first, but it was an excellent wrap job. I cannot believe how much I've come to love this little cutie. Coincidentally, I'd been also looking for a quieter serger, and had bought a used Janomoe 634D after my old Singer Ultra Lock just seemed so loud. The Janome was indeed quieter, but this Baby Lock is just unbelievably way more quiet AND smooth to boot! The problem is now I don't want to disassemble it for treadling, LOL. So now, I'll be looking for another one instead. Like you said, it's always good to have a parts machine, right? ;) I had actually stopped collecting VSMs recently, but now I think I'm back on with vintage sergers now! Just wanted to say thanks for turning me on to these! :)

If I remember correctly, I used the polygon tool to make a square, rotated it 45 degrees, and set the fill to black and partially transparent (maybe 50%).

Illustrator has an even simpler process. Because the program is responsible for creating the division by pages when printing PDF at once. You don't have to do it manually like Inkscape. :)

The lower knife (and possibly upper knife also) probably need to be replaced. They are still available to be purchased. They may also need to be adjusted. There are instructions in the manual for adjusting and replacing the knives. You can find a scanned copy of the BL3-407 manual here: stitchnerd.wordpress.com/my-sewing-machines-3/img_5962/ (search on that page for “dropbox” to find the link down in the comments).

The belt is aquarium airline tubing. Right now I like it better than the leather belts. It has a bit of stretch, and it is grippy, so the length doesn't have to be adjusted as precisely. This lets me switch to different machines in the same table without changing the belt, as long as they need almost the same length belt. With a leather belt, even a quarter inch difference and you need to adjust the belt length.

@@growyourownclothes8442 do you use any machine not only your babylock?

@@rosablanca7366 I use the aquarium airline tubing for a belt with my other machines, if that is what you are asking. This blog post shows how I connect them: growyourownclothes.com/2022/04/04/aquarium-airline-tubing-for-a-treadle-belt/

@@growyourownclothes8442 I mean all this constraction

Make sure you print the pdf from a pdf reader such as Adobe Acrobat. Set the print scale to 100%.