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hi there, thanks for watching. Not sure exactly what you are asking, but I think you are asking if we see a reduction in power usage with the minisplit vs the traditional rooftop unit? If so, the answer is yes but for two reasons : 1) the unit we installed is small, only 9000 btu. we used a smaller unit because we really only wanted to keep our bedroom comfortable, and not cool the entire trailer. 2) mini splits use a LOT LESS power for start up (to start the compressor) and to maintain temperature once you get close to your set comfort temp. so, again, please clarify further if this wasn't what you meant, but for sure this uses less power than a standard camper A/C unit. Mentioned in the comments previously and in the video, it uses about 800-900 watts when cooling, depending on what mode you have it on. another advantage is that this also can provide heat as a backup to our other heating solutions (propane). and not mentioned enough, its much much quieter than the rooftop unit, making sleeping with it on a pleasant and more peaceful experience

Hi there, no issues with our fridge thus far. Im guessing you are asking because the air vent is blocked? If so, our fridge doesn't really need the "chimney" that a propane fridge needs, because we installed a DC fridge. see this vid (ua-cam.com/video/lxCUPHYBwk8/v-deo.htmlsi=Rn0NynugjYsMWA3_). If that wasnt your question, please clarify and I'd be happy to be more specific about our install as it regards to the fridge.

@@senormisterioso7466 Yes, I was wondering if you had replaced the fridge with either a 12V or residential. I'm not sure which way the fans blow the air on the minisplits, so I didn't know if that would have caused issues, or helped, with the function of the fridge.

gotcha, yeah so in my install, the air blows away from the trailer. the outside unit has a fan that has a direction away from the tail of the trailer. With an absorption fridge (propane) you'd want to consider anything that interferes with the "chimney" effect that keeps the column of hot air moving up and out the top vent. A simple fix could be adding 12v computer fans with a thermostat (or a commercial version) which moves air up and out the top column vent. Let me know if you have further questions. In the case of our trailer, the mini split outside unit does not affect the DC / 12v fridge.

Hey there, thanks for checking out my vid. Yes, as shown, its blocking the passenger side but I added more lights to solve this (not shown in vid) , see here : senormisterioso.wordpress.com/2023/01/26/installing-a-ductless-mini-split-on-an-outdoors-rv-travel-trailer/ specifically this pic : senormisterioso.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/img_7412.jpeg

thanks! that hasnt happened to our unit yet

HI there. I'd check with the manufacturer of your unit. Our lineset is probably less than 30 feet. I did a quick google search that suggests the lineset can be up to 100 feet or more and still be functional. Our 9000btu mini split works just fine for cooling and heating the bedroom in our camper. For a bigger camper you might need a bigger unit

30amp

H Roberto, thanks for your comment and thanks for watching. There actually are rubber feet on this unit where it attaches to the frame, on top of that we have a rubber wedge where the frame is screwed to the vertical wall of the trailer. Naturally, these units weren't made to go bouncing down the road, but so far we have had good luck. This is actually the second trailer we have had this mini split installed on.

there are cheaper units out there, thats for sure, here is our unit : hvacdirect.com/fujitsu-9-000-btu-16-seer-ductless-mini-split-heat-pump-system-9rl2.html

38 seer are available at that price for 9 and 12k btu units.The 12k is 30 seer.

hi Jerry, thanks for watching! great question, we have moved from the traditional absorption fridge/freezer to a DC fridge/freezer. This means our new unit doesnt rely on the "chimney" effect needed for cooling. Check out this vid about the fridge and let me know if you have any questions. ua-cam.com/video/lxCUPHYBwk8/v-deo.html

Hi, thanks for watching! this minisplit really only cools the bedroom, for one... our RV has a wall / bathroom between the bedroom and the main room/dinette. On a really hot day, the cool air isnt really enough to cool the entire rig. That said, our 9000 btu unit keeps the bedroom comfy enough to get some good rest. We still have our factory ceiling unit, but it takes tons more power to run offgrid compared to the mini split. Let me know if you need more clarification

HI David, thanks for watching my vid. hope things go well with your setup

hi, we still have our propane furnace for heat. this is what we use to force air for cold temps. our trailer is a "4 season" model, so we can keep plumbing from freezing. Although the mini split is a heater and a cooling device (heat pump), I'd highly recommend using this as a supplemental system to what you already have. Unless your current AC unit is non-functional, I would recommend keeping it for times when you have shore power (grid) so you can still use it in a very hot environment. The unit in this video is only 9000k BTU (we had previously installed it on a much smaller travel trailer), and this unit definitely does NOT cool down the entire trailer in temps over 90F. That said, the factory installed AC unit on the roof is also undersized for our trailer, so really having both units is ideal. the bottom line is... the mini split is much more efficient in heating/cooling especially when offgrid, using considerably less AC (electric) power (amps/watts). We have our inside unit installed in our "bedroom" so that on very hot nights we can get some sleep when offgrid.

hi there, we have just over 1100 watts on our trailer. Here is a video showing all the mods we did including the solar : ua-cam.com/video/xifs-D_HqBc/v-deo.html

depending on the size of your mini split, you will need a considerable amount of solar to run your mini split fully off of solar. Also, naturally, to run it when the sun is not producing power, you'll need a large amount of battery to run your inverter to keep the mini split going when solar isnt available . the unit in this video is a 9k BTU, which is pretty small. Even on full power cooling it uses only half of the power of our rooftop RV air conditioner.

no hum at all that I notice... as you probably saw in the install, its underneath a bench seat. If anything, its the cooling fan that is audible, but that is to be expected. this inverter works great and really saves on power for low-watt devices

@@senormisterioso7466 Thanks for that. I'm gonna get a 375 as a separate power supply for a mini fridge and few other small things. Excited to be able to turn the big inverter off most of the day and save like 800 wh per day. The hum is the only thing I was worried about as some have said it's too loud. All in now, thanks.

havent used it much in the south, but plenty in the western states. The key is to size the unit appropriately to the size of camper/trailer/bus you are trying to cool. This unit is quite small at 9k BTU. It easily cools the bedroom of our 29' travel trailer.

the AC on the camper works fine. The reason for doing this modification is to have an AC unit that works with much much less power consumption than the normal rooftop unit. As described in the video, this 9000 btu unit draws about 800-1000 watts on full cool / heat, whereas our 12000 btu rooftop unit needs over 2000 watts to even start. None of this really matters if you are connected to the grid. We frequently camp with no services, which includes no electricity.

110v

sorry for the delay, check this post out for answers to the actual install senormisterioso.wordpress.com/2023/01/26/installing-a-ductless-mini-split-on-an-outdoors-rv-travel-trailer/

indeed, its a great upgrade. I think you'd still want the access panel so that you can easily connect/disconnect the DC to the back of the fridge. Also, the roof vent is probably still helpful to chimney up the heat so it doesnt return back into your camper. They would be wise to offer this as an upgrade, but you do need a sizable battery/solar or DC to DC power source to keep this unit running. We have had no issues with it and used it heavily. thanks for watching !

@@senormisterioso7466 I suppose that's true. Since you had to bolt the fridge in using those brackets you won't just be able to pull the fridge out like you can at home. If ORV started actually designing their RVs around the 12V fridge they could solve that problem also, however.

true, the DC cables could be longer so you could do the disconnect, but the longer the run the more DC loss. Either way, DC compressor fridge/freezers are great, folks just need to know that to run them without shore power, you need a decent amount of battery/solar/dc power

Thanks 👍

thanks for watching, hope your install goes well.

4 inches is the minimum i believe.

Hi, thanks for watching my video. Im not a "paid rep" for Dometic (that would be great though!). Im just a regular dude who replaced the fridge (purchased with my own money) in my travel trailer, posted a video about it. We havent had any issues so far, used it probably over 150 days total run time. Sorry to hear you have had issues with your fridge. Its true it does take DC power to run. Could you comment on what issues you had with your unit so that it might help others?

Here is how to fix it. Rockwood replaced 3 in my 2516. Was a nightmare. ua-cam.com/video/aJtTQxRvANM/v-deo.htmlsi=fSuUztVhZe_wKo1C

Hi there, thanks for watching. Not really sure what your comment means. Are you wondering what the outside fan does in this setup?

Yes, we ran the mail power into the Trailer Power Center / Circuit Panel. There was space for another breaker so we just added a new breaker for dedicated use for the Mini Split. Thanks for watching!

hi there. I have seen lots of school bus modifications where they have put the outside unit in a lower compartment. You could have it in an enclosed compartment, but you'd have to open it as much as possible when heating/cooling. The outside unit needs lots of airflow, as much as possible.

hi there, thanks for watching! Good observation about the refrigerator being blocked. I should have mentioned this in the video that we no longer have a propane (absorption) fridge freezer on our camper. Due to that, we don't really need to access that panel (for maintenance or cleaning). Also, that panel is no longer used to vent the propane fridge (since its gone) Worst case if we needed to access the fridge compressor, we could just pull the fridge out from inside the Trailer. That modification is detailed in this video : ua-cam.com/video/lxCUPHYBwk8/v-deo.html

@@senormisterioso7466 Great choice on the compressor refrigerator. When our adsorption refrigerator gives up the ghost, we will probably go the same route.

@@deepsea5107 So far, our DC fridge has been great.

Hi there, thanks for watching! Appreciate the comment. I actually added a directional light above the original after the install. take a look at the end of this post : senormisterioso.wordpress.com/2023/01/26/installing-a-ductless-mini-split-on-an-outdoors-rv-travel-trailer/ , the picture is here : senormisterioso.files.wordpress.com/2023/01/img_7412.jpeg?w=2048

HI Erik, thanks for watching. Im not sure I'm clear on your question, so trying to clarify here. The Phoenix has its own power supply from the DC side (from the bussbar). The phoenix can "talk" to the GX system via VE Direct to USB cable, which allows me to see the volts/watts its pulling and turn it on and off remotely (from the touch screen or VRM). As far as where the power is going, i have the Phoenix hard wired to a specific outlet, which is dedicated to small loads like chargers, Starlink, etc. Anything with a total under 250 watts. The Phoenix for sure has a much lower standby power, so it works great when dry camping to turn off the big Multiplus whenever we arent running big AC loads. Let me know if this answers your question, but if not... please re-clarify so I can be sure to give you the info you need

Hi there! thanks for checking out my vid and install. Just in case you havent found it, senormisterioso.wordpress.com has some good install info. We have been enjoying the new fridge, working great running non-stop since early November 2022

hi there. I wouldn't recommend towing this with a half ton truck. The dry weight is 6646lb, and an average tongue weight of 726lb. It could be done with a half ton truck but you'd really need to keep an eye on your overall available payload. I tow it with a F-350 which is obviously overkill, but I'd consider a lighter rig for your half ton. That said, we L O V E this trailer !

Awesome! thanks for watching and reading the blog. Let me know if you have any questions or need some advice (here or over on the blog). Best of luck to you and your wife with your adventures!

Also, just in case you are interested in buying a fully tricked out off-grid rig, we might be interested in selling our 2017 Rockwood Mini Lite 2104S. I could use a new project to work on :) Its a great trailer and continues to serve us well.

awesome ! hope it works out for you