Відео

Yes it might be, but will be not that easy to keep the precision and also to make it resistant to the abrasion

Yeah that would be wise, as always I undestimate how many times I need to update the firmware before getting everything working properly 😅 🤣🤣🤣.

Nope, Hint: You can guess If you know what is the device with the chain.⛓️

Is it a fifty shades of grey reference?

🤣🤣🤣🤣 bro

​@@NeedToDIYgotta be honest that is such a awesome shed, gantry crane and 4 point hoist/block tackle And then there's a electric bike with a cheap electronics, mean no offence but take it to a professional to get a cable soldered directly to the board to prevent it ripping pins in future and just mount the exit usb interface on the bottom of the hard plastic case so you don't have to open it when you need to and it stays water proof Maybe chuck a cap on it actually because puddles would splash up.

@user-it4nu7im1v you know you stuff, the good part of working on a place like that is that I can use the tools to do my bull 💩.

Sorry about missing that in the video, maybe I did it later, There are 2 way of doing that, I'll see if I can retrieve me sketch but I'm not sure, 1 is hook the digital pin to the function, when the function is connected the arduino will turn on the relay, 2, the relay is supplied by the 5vdc from the usb, if the pc turn off the relay will shut down. Atm I'm not living at my place so I'm not 100% if I can check what I did

@@NeedToDIY I know...i finally found out :-) Don´t worry

// Motor 1 const int motor1Pin1 = 10; // IN1 on the H-bridge const int motor1Pin2 = 9; // IN2 on the H-bridge // Motor 2 const int motor2Pin1 = 8; // IN3 on the H-bridge const int motor2Pin2 = 6; // IN4 on the H-bridge void setup() { // Set all the motor control pins to outputs pinMode(motor1Pin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(motor1Pin2, OUTPUT); pinMode(motor2Pin1, OUTPUT); pinMode(motor2Pin2, OUTPUT); } void loop() { // Spin Motor 1 forward digitalWrite(motor1Pin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(motor1Pin2, LOW); // Spin Motor 2 forward digitalWrite(motor2Pin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(motor2Pin2, LOW); delay(2000); // Run motors for 2 seconds // Reverse Motor 1 digitalWrite(motor1Pin1, LOW); digitalWrite(motor1Pin2, HIGH); // Reverse Motor 2 digitalWrite(motor2Pin1, LOW); digitalWrite(motor2Pin2, HIGH); delay(2000); // Run motors in reverse for 2 seconds // Stop Motors digitalWrite(motor1Pin1, LOW); digitalWrite(motor1Pin2, LOW); digitalWrite(motor2Pin1, LOW); digitalWrite(motor2Pin2, LOW); delay(2000); // Wait for 2 seconds before next loop }

You mean something, that was supposed to use an stepper motor? I should maybe make 2 separate boards or firmware functions, and you change the position set everytime you receive a signal, adding on subtracting depending on the direction

@@NeedToDIY It's just like this, one Arduino board runs the grbl firmware and the other runs the PID code, the problem is that on UA-cam only tutorials appear to manipulate the servo motors with a potentiometer

@TornoyfresadoraRD the one that manage the PID, should receive the signal and direction signal and move the DC motor accordingly, but what the purpose of the servo motor in this case? You have both dc and servo motor?

@@NeedToDIY I have homemade DC servo motors, the project is a homemade CNC

Does it reach every time the same point ? Even if wrong?

🫵 you are brilliant my friend ❤️

Arduino mega have more memory and more gpio but is not faster 👍👍 seems fast because they put mega in the name 😎

In this example I drive the motor in one direction until I reach the end of the stroke, a better way to do that is to implement a limit switch and stop the motor when you trigger it, the position that I reach will be my " zero" or "home position".

You can use the gyroscope (but I didn't tried yet), but you cannot send audio.

Super easy as every other library just follow the example, there are 3 example depending if you want you receive data or send data to the controller

@@NeedToDIY Like sending audio to the controller speaker?

@@topdiyprojects2846 Nope I think you said the only think that you can't do :( but you can see if the headphones are attached

ps4Controller, you can find it in arduino library manager or github 👍👍👍

Just backup, everytime throw away an old laptop I get a new backup disk 🤣🤣🤣

I'm not familiar with nrf24l01but you can't use it, ps4 joypad works with bluetooth 😉

I have to make so try for the distance, I think without obstacles maybe 30 meters

@NeedToDIY I used two esp32 I got without obstacles 450m and nrf24l01 is 1km distance . 32 meters are way too short but for dual shock that's what I'm asking

@waelbadr4724 yeah definitely radio transmitter is better than bluetooth for the range 👍👍

Yeah! who wrote that library for the ps4 joypad did a really awesome work 👌👌👌👌

Thanks mate

I don't think you can do it they have different voltage ( micro sd is 3,3V and usb is 5V) and different protocol, you can buy a usb to micro sd or you can connect thought the header in top of the raspberry same as you could using the spi protocols do with arduino but the second solution will let you to use basic function and will be very difficult, you will have to write a code to do everything. I think you have to go with the first solution but not sure I'm not too familiar with raspberry

Hi mate, There a no library needed, what kind of error do you have?

Give me more info, do you have a model of what you have?

Thank you!

Yes you can, you have to follow the steps and count how many impulses generate your encoder from top to bottom, then you will do the ratio. Or more simply just apply a constrain to the value that you want to enter so you cannot type more than 60cm, did I undestand the answer correctly?

Are you talking about channels of encoder? Yes you can, you will lose some resolution, what would you like to do?

Ok I'll put the code in description maybe tomorrow but I'm not a good programmer so do not expect a well written code 👍

Change the printing area? The maximum printing area is maximum length of the encoder, you can reduce it if you need, if you want to extend it you will need a longer carriage and a longer encoder as well

I think you can't, I don't remember very well but depend on with usb chip is mounted on the board, I think nodemcu cannot be recognised as HID( like mouse keyboard ....) from the PC, instead node mc is recognised as serial device

It depends, the encoder that I used had square signal output so digital output, but a lot of encoder have analogical output as you said 😁

Thanks bro!

I can try to do it maybe tomorrow, anyways I don't have the circuit at the moment so I will be not able to test the code.

@@NeedToDIY if everything goes well, please let me know about the development

Looks like only you connected only one channel, try to switch them, if the number go negative then search the problem in one if the channel, maybe do a sketch then read the states of the channel and print them on serial monitor to understand

@@NeedToDIY thank you for the fast response. But could that be due to I am powering the arduino from the usb port . And i am using it of course to communicate the serial data . Thus pin 1 is not usable. Every thing was fixed when i shifted to pin 3 instead of pin 1.

@@drsaif343 So, now you are using pins 2-3, and the sketch in the description of the video or you written another one? If was working and stopped when you changed a pin try check in declaration: example PINMODE or interrupt declaretion, maybe you have to update something

@@NeedToDIY its the one in the discrepancies but I changed pin 1 to pin 3 and changed what needed in the sketch and it works now.

Hi, Silvio I did not know what it meant to rewind speakers, so I watched some videos, correct me if I'm wrong but the electronics would already be ok, what should be changed is only the mechanics right?

@@NeedToDIY Correctly, undoubtedly! *Must have speed control *wire displacement control according to each AWG thickness *Horizontal displacement return of the wire to reassemble the second layer according to the predetermined space *lap counter. The wire conduction must always be behind the curve that is being executed (ie: the wire being delivered is not at 90° from the coil. Something around 87° to be tried), this guarantees that the turns are closed and tight together. Any questions ask, I have mechanics suggestions, I don't understand electronics.

@@NeedToDIY ua-cam.com/video/8KCofK9baN8/v-deo.html These videos are just to understand the concept of different possibilities of mechanics. *It is interesting that there is a programmable stop before the return of the yarn to build the second stage of the bobbin, this stop allows you to pass glue manually for those who wish ua-cam.com/video/6qjcIXaE7gc/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Ampletos ua-cam.com/video/yWmQUv1htEQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Luciano ua-cam.com/video/9knZqO2Aw2k/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/KKkbJunOM50/v-deo.html I do not agree that the felt clamp that holds and guides the yarn is too close to the bobbin, this causes unwanted spaces in the process. As I said earlier, the tweezers must be delayed in relation to the loop that forms ua-cam.com/video/fgZeOer7xBM/v-deo.html

When I was a kid I loved taking apart old devices, I think it's also very instructive

@@NeedToDIY I recall when I was 8. I learned the difference between 9 volt DC and 120 ac. I'm 64 and still taking things apart. Got a place that gives me free electronics.

You are super cool