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Mark, thanks for you comment. I also agree on the simplicity of measuring Toe vs. Camber, vs. Caster. Floor pitch doesn’t seem to impact Toe, but It will Camber and Caster. Even then it can be simply measured and the floor offset can be removed from those values. Looking forward to your experiences.

Fair, laser based alignment equipment is available at professional shops. This video doesn't proport to be better than that, it just gives DIY-inclined folks the option to identify alignment issues and rectify them in their own garage. I am glad that I investigated various alignment techniques and shared them with others on UA-cam.

The precision and accuracy of this method are akin to shipping a parcel with nothing more than the zip code-it’s highly unlikely to reach its intended destination.

I disagree. I found that both the string method and the Gyraline tool identified a ~5 mm toe-in error in my car's right rear wheel alignment, which was adjusted by me to +/-0.5 mm (+/- 0.06 deg). I have yet to confirm this via a laser alignment method, but I don't feel like I need to.

@@OncaEngineering String alignments? Sure, they have their place, but as an engineer, you understand the role of compliance and stacked tolerances. OEM alignment specifications are established and measured with the full weight of the vehicle on low-tension turnplates, positioned on a surface level to within 1/16 inch from corner to corner. The equipment compensates for the cumulative lateral runout between the alignment tool, the wheel, and the spindle hub to which it’s mounted. Additionally, ride height is measured or adjusted, and tire pressures are set to specification. The wheel assemblies are tested and matched to less than 30 lbs of RFV (Radial Force Variation), with front tires contributing less than 15 lbs of NLF (Non-Uniformity Lateral Force). These steps ensure that manufacturing tolerances don’t compromise the precision and accuracy necessary for a diagnostic alignment. Your Jaguar dealer, like other OEM dealerships, has the equipment needed to restore your vehicle to OEM specifications, addressing warranty claims or customer satisfaction issues. Jaguar also deploys regional field service engineers, well-versed in NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness) concerns, to support dealers when a customer is dissatisfied with completed work. Respectfully,

All that said, I still think there is definitely a place for this device in the garage of the occasional DIYer. Dealerships, better known as stealerships, hire resources that know or understand 1/8th or perhaps 1/16th of all the Wikipedia text Veerod put out there. Out of 100 alignments I've paid for in my life, only 1 of them hasn't sucked. No matter what equipment you give a fool, it will always be a fool's work. I do 100% of all my maintenance, repairs and upgrades right here in my garage and have been doing so for 20 years (including alignments). I will likely get this tool.

Good to hear, and I hope you can learn from my video and find a tool and method which works well for you and your vehicles. It would be great to see how you make out.

There are a few rear differential options available to Jaguar owners. 1) the base V6 cars came with an Open Differential which isn't very good from a grip and DSC perspective. 2) the V6 S-model cars came with a friction LSD which has carbon fiber pads that fall apart. I have developed an upgrade kit to ceramic moly coated disks that are much more robust. 3) the V8 cars came mostly with an electronically controlled differential, which also has carbon fiber pads that can fall apart, but I have also developed a ceramic moly 4) a new option is the Quaife ATB (helical or Torsen style) which fits into the V6 and 4 cylinder cars. This is what I run in my 2017 V6 F-Type Manual... I really appreciate the way it grips and goes. Some folks have shown that the friction LSD and the helical ATB have near identical performance on the race track. The friction LSD requires maintenance due to disc wear. The helical ATB is maintenance free. The friction LSD binds the two axles together when engaged with high torque. The helical ATB biases torque to the axle that is spinner slower. The helical ATB may spin a tire if there is zero road friction on that side, while the friction LSD will eventually lock the axles together in the same situation. Note: traction control can help the helical ATB maintain grip with one wheel on zero friction surface. More rear diff content Playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PLt7FG0BQm3ykhzsHzNR47DIYp9YnZRgd0.html

@@OncaEngineering But which one is more reliable / predictable / fun to drive with? The main reason I justify my purchase with the V6 and LSD is that the LSD is more predictable than an e-diff. I hate electronics. Always wanted to put the v8 in the coupe and make one if not the only coupe v8 with a LSD.

@@DillonBritt-gw2og I will try to give you my best response based on my experience with 14+ rear diffs. The least robust is the Jaguar V6 LSD (due to the poor quality bond of the Carbon Fiber pads on the friction discs). The next least robust is the Jaguar e-diff where it can overheat, disable, and wear away its Carbon Fiber discs. The intermediate robust units are the LSD equipped with the upgraded ceramic moly disc. The most robust rear diffs are the Open diff, and the Quaife ATB As for behavior and fun factor.. the least fun is the Open diff, while all of the others are in the “big grin” category. I don’t have too much driving time on the e-diff, but I do have time on the LSD and Quaife ATB units, and I prefer the Quaife’s behavior, as I can feel it seeking and finding which axle has more grip than the other. I can tell its working as I accelerate away on washboard roads, or exit a wet corner on an uneven road. While the LSD tends to give that “locked axle” behavior and the rear of the car will then rotate outward with predictable characteristics. Note: the car’s DSC setting will also influence the throttle and rear brake response, so use TracDSC, or DSC Off for best results. The V8 is a torque monster, and I would recommend either 1) keeping the e-diff until it fails, 2) swapping over to an upgraded LSD with ceramic moly friction discs, or 3) bitting the bullet and converting over to the Quaife ATB. There are other challenges as well when considering the e-Diff to V6 rear diff conversion. A) the left side half shaft may need to be swapped to a V6 one which is a bit longer, B) the gear ratio of 2.56 may be difficult to fit into the LSD and to the Quaife … so you may need to use a larger numerical gear ratio.

Yes. It would be great to use some features on the uni-body. The Gyraline tool can accept references from either side of the car, and the best location would probably be the inner rocker lip (with door open). I used the door to window lip, which is not really well tied to the car’s uni body. So improved readings are still possible. Note: laser based wheel alignment tools use relative and absolute measurements between all four wheels and hubs to ascertain the thrust angles.

AJImports, yes, the F-Type V6 S model's rear diff with LSD can be fitted into many other rear wheel drive Jags (F-Type V6 base, XE V6, XF V6, etc). If you search eBay motors for "Jaguar V6 rear diff" you can do some research. Note how these diffs all look the same. Steer clear of the V8 eDiff, and many of the 4 cylinder diffs which are different. Also take note of the gear ratios: V6 S model rear diff = 3.31:1 V6 base model automatic = 3.15:1 (but the ZF gear box is so flexible, it can handle the adjustment in gear ratio with almost no perception) See Jaguar Forums for more details.

Earl, Great add! You are correct. Using the parallel string setup and recording the string to hub distances will give an indication of the car's orientation to the parallel strings. Giving enough information to estimate the thrust angle.

Dillon, sharp eye. I have two sets of wheels, one with OEM red caps, one with aftermarket black caps. Search eBay for “Jaguar center wheel caps”

@@OncaEngineeringI've been meaning to ask as well. What do you know about running E-85 fuel in the F-Type?

Good question. I am not so curious about running E85, but there has been quite a bit of chatter in the various Jaguar Forums (XE, XF, XJ, F-Type, etc..) www.jaguarforums.com/forum/search.php?searchid=15504729

Good question. This video was about the F-Type V6 models which do not feature an electronically controlled rear differential like the V8 models. Rather the V6 cars have two options, and now a third (base model = open diff, S model = Friction based LSD, and now Quaife ATB). The Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) works well with these three options, but realize that the base model's open diff provides the least rear axle traction in slippery conditions, while I find the LSD and Quiaife ATB provide a good level of grip before DSC kicks in to assist. Look for my V8 eDiff videos for more info on that application.

I am glad you liked it. I am developing a DIY kit so you can fix your own diff!

@OncaEngineering wow! When will this be available? I would do a group buy with our OJOA Jag club.

Onca Engineering can support your group buy, and can supply the tool rentals necessary to complete the rebuilds with quality results. I am also in contact with Victor at OJOA on doing a talk and some rear diff videos. So let's make it happen. OncaEngineering@gmail.com

You bet! Thanks for watching

You are welcome. You can also investigate the effectiveness of various catch cans by searching UA-cam on that topic. Best of luck.

Welcome aboard! I am doing an alignment on my V6 MT car and will hopefully share that soon.

Good to hear of your interest. Onca Engineering does not yet have automated sales due to the custom nature of the products. But you can contact us via email. OncaEngineering@gmail.com to start the conversation. If you have a 2016 V6 base model with Automatic, then you have a 3.15:1 ratio which is supported. Or if you have a base V6 Manual, then you have a 3.31:1 ratio which is also supported. The Quaife ATB commissioned by OncaEng, is not in stock right now, so I would need to initiate a new batch. This upgrade is well worth it as it makes the base F-Type perform at a higher level.

Thanks for watching. I am developing a DIY kit so you can fix your own diff!

Luka, you are most welcome. Do you have any evolving concerns about your car? The Jaguar Forums are a great place to "get up to speed"

@@OncaEngineering I fell in love with my XE. I would like to make it as reliable and as robust as possible in the years to come. Should the money be available in the near future, it appears that most of my desires are available. I plan to activate myself on the forum and share my experience with the diesel 2.0 engine. Your differentials are something that is truly beautiful for me and I will most certainly obtain this for my AWD drivetrain. But all in its respective time.

Luc, I used a 15 mm deep well socket to loosen the exhaust clamps (cats, middle, rear). I also applied copper based anti-seize to avoid corrosion.

Will, good luck with the tune. Yes, the parts will be available through Onca Engineering.

There are a few of us who have swapped pulleys and tuned our manual f types. I havent heard of any of the fourth generation clutches failing yet from among that group. I've done about 20k miles with pulleys + tune, some have done significantly more.

You are welcome. I am also interested in the results myself, as it directly impacts the driving experience of my F-Type.

You are welcome. I also have the steps documented in an 8 page document. I can share that with you if interested. I also have all the part numbers on hand for the various clutch applications.

Great idea! I ran out and unplugged that connector, and my Auto Start/Stop light went out… but my F-Type still cut throttle when both brake and throttle pedals were applied. So no effect.

Good idea. These experiments in the video were done with Dynamic Stability Control ON, and I will run the experiments with DSC OFF and TracDSC.

Yupe… the throttle cut out still occurs in DSC Off, TracDSC, and DSC On modes. I also noticed that the brake pedal does need to be depressed more than a minimal amount, to trigger the throttle cut out.

@@OncaEngineering I'm guessing the logic for the behavior runs off of the brake light circuit. Makes sense. I was thinking that if the logic ran based on wheel speed sensors/abs sensors, etc that it might be integrated into the DSC system.

I am glad you like the content. Any favorite playlist, or is the diversity fun? My 2017 MT had a 2nd gen clutch which was slipping horribly after 20 kmiles, so that motivated me to develop alternative solutions!

You are most welcome Will. I am glad you are enjoying your Quaife helical torque biasing rear differential, it is a great upgrade for the base model V6's. On the clutch recommendation side, I am investigating one final refinement to the Sport Touring application. See JaguarForums for latest details. www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f-type-x152-72/f-type-clutch-replacement-options-260824/page4/#post2766321

@@OncaEngineering that looks perfect, I’ll be eager to hear how it works out for you.

I can totally understand your interest in the F-Type Manual. It represents the final chapter of an iconic formula; powerful engine up front, gearbox in the middle, and rear wheel drive out the back. And of course is doesn't hurt that it is styled beautifully, outfitted with leather and has an amazing sound track. Your V8 conversion of the 300zx is also a fun project, but on a bit of a different level. The F-Type Manual has more reliance on electronics than the old zx, and it has less support from the aftermarket, so one has to plan ahead carefully when doing projects on the F-Type. Good of you to read up on the Jaguar Forums, and I appreciate your support on the YT videos.

I am not familiar with the vapor canister, but you could look at the jaguar repair manual on the Jaguar Forums and do a search on key words.

Ok.. Now I am confused. After returning from a 250 mile road trip, my F-Type’s TPMS control module is working again. (No light on dash, no warning, and it reports the actual tire pressures).

Jeremy Ray from FaceBook F-Type Owners Club saw his TPMS error go away after a full and proper recharge of his car’s battery… similar here after business trip in my car. So the faults could have been battery voltage related.

Alpha Albert, if you look at my channel, you will see a brake pad exchange video. I opted to transition from OEM pads, to the Porterfield R4-S pads. My experience so far has confirmed the assertion that the pads are less dusty, and still reasonable friction coefficient. I found that my brake rotors were still within specification, so I had them “turned down” by a local shop with a brake lathe. This was about $50 per rotor, which is more economical than purchasing new OEM rotors… but also not as cheap as leaving the old rotors “raw” and slapping new pads on the car. It all depends up on your interest. A) are you just looking for basic maintenance? Then slap new pads on your F-Type and let the pads bed in to the old rotors. B) are you hoping for some smooth operation? Then have your rotors cut down by a few thousandths. C)You need your car to be 100% stock and Jaguar trophy ready… then buy new rotors & pads. Here is a link to the video… ua-cam.com/video/QTzwHiRj274/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared

@@OncaEngineering great info, thanks for the video recommendation will check out ✊

Jason, I have tested several clutch combinations… including the organic disc mounted “backwards” with clutch pack to flywheel side. The only minor annoyance that I found after a few thousand miles was some “stuttering” during low RPM engagement. But this could also have been from the previous clutch history which caused some warpage of the flywheel friction plate/heat shield. (Testing out the full range of clutch engagement over Torque and speed). So I think you have three options for your plans of a “mildly tuned” V6 Manual. 1) do nothing, keep milking your OEM clutch setup until you are ready for an upgrade. 2) upgrade to the light weight Aasco Motorsports flywheel and organic friction disc. (Perhaps using my newly specified ACT friction disc with correct orientation of the Marcel springs or metal mounting flags. 3) eventually upgrade to the 6-puck sintered disc as you explore your F-Type’s full potential.

@OncaEngineering Thanks Herman. Option 1 is not an option as the clutch is slipping on my early year 2016. I am weighing out the options of the OE gen 4 or aftermarket lightweight. Have you tested the new ACT and 6 puck discs? Can you provide links the flywheel, plates, and disc options? Greatly appreciated, I found your video very helpful as I intend to tackle this myself.

Jason, yes, I have tested several combinations of parts. Some of the parts are exclusive to Onca Engineering, some are available on the open market. We can discuss via email. OncaEngineering@gmail.com

I have not yet invested in SDD. I was getting TPMS error codes on the dash, so I decided to just swap my faulty TPMS control module with a used box off the web for $20. Presto! It worked. No more errors and all tires reporting pressures. But I would like to learn more about SDD.

beside of brand new Jaguar diff from dealer which is too pricy...

Sael, you can buy a base model V6 manual, and then add a LSD rear differential from an V6S model (used on eBay) or an upgraded helical ATB from Quaife via Onca Engineering. You can also get a tune on the engine and get >400 hp. The manual F-type is very rare, so finding one will be difficult. Good luck.

@@OncaEngineering thank you for the quick response. I want to do drifting and extreme Motorsports, so is there any aftermarket brand new LSD differential? Also it would be amazing to educate me how to turn 340hp to 400hp or make a video about it. Probably so many Jaguar owners want to do that and you are the best source all around the world. Thank you

@@saelmahdavi3995 Sael, for extreme motorsports, I recommend the OEM LSD from a V6S model, and updated with the clutch pack from RacingDiffs. (The OEM carbon fiber clutches fail prematurely, so the Racing Diffs ceramic clutch discs should have longer life). For tuning, see VAP website, and join the Jaguar Forums for more discussion of modifications.

Joseph, I am glad you liked the content. There was a good follow on discussion on the Jaguar Forums on this topic. Regularly clean out the vent pipe with a zip tie, and change the oil more frequently if driven aggressively.

Agreed, very disappointing. This Jag LSD from an early V6S operated for about 35-40 kmiles. I took apart a second used LSD unit with about 30 kmiles on it with the same issue. Please check out my more recent LSD Rebuild video where I install an upgraded clutch pack. I also have inspected OEM and upgraded LSD units available on the shelf.

Can do, its on the list.

Luc, Great to hear your 4th gen clutch is still working. My 2017 car came with a slipping 2nd gen clutch so that helped motivate me to explore upgrades. I will probably also investigate a ceramic 6-puck clutch disc for higher torque applications (tuned cars).

@@OncaEngineering that would be fantastic. I've swapped both pulleys on mine so I have to be extra sympathetic with the clutch. Would be nice to be able to let loose a little more.

Thanks. Great to hear you drive a V6S MT, and I understand your interest in maintenance and supercharger info. I will try to include more costs, and I did share the cost of the Quaife upgrade at the end of the latest video. Note: the Quaife upgrade is about $1700 ~$2000 for a rebuilt unit and returns on cores. The lightweight flywheel and clutch kit is about $2400. Both upgrade kits are less than or comparable with new OEM parts from Jaguar.

Will, great to have your enthusiasm. Your 3.23 gear ratio was shipped to your auto shop. Tell me how it turns out.

Joey, one of the diff units was media blasted and then sprayed with an anti corrosion primer and hand painted with gloss black rust oleum. This turned out to be labor and time intensive, and also added risk of getting abrasive media inside the unit. Plus the core group of forum members who joined me on the builds didn’t gravitate to this option so it was dropped. I think applying a brushed on paint after rebuild may be reasonable. You could pick any color you wanted…

Yeah.. yellow paste and bluing aren’t applied here. If the pinion gear depth is set correctly, the only adjustment is the ring gear axial location. Applying a new carrier into the housing essentially has two adjustments find the bearing pre-load, and then set backlash by shifting shims left or right.

I have seen technical drawings and figures of the front differential on the AWD cars, and it appears to be an open diff. I am not sure if it is based upon a Ford unit, or if Jag specified their own. I would think that upgrading the rear differential from an open diff to a Quaife ATB to be of very good performance value. Do you have thoughts on the value of changing the front open diff to an ATB?

@@OncaEngineeringIs it part of the oil pan like the R35 GT-R? I am wanting to know the limitations of the diffs after the Quaife upgrade. I'm seriously considering buying a F-Type R and putting twins on it to chase after some of these F150 race trucks.

@3ducs The base model F-Types had open diffs, the V6 S models had friction LSD’s, and the V8 models had electronically controlled LSD’s. I have developed a helical geared torque biasing rear diff with Quaife out of UK (who make Torsen style diffs for Jags and many other cars). Look for the other videos on Onca Engineering in the PlayList to see those videos.

@@handhwiegman8115 Thank-you. My V6 is an S with 33,000 miles, it appears to be operating correctly, though I don't drive it hard so I'm not the best judge of that. It's been off the road since November here in New Hampshire, I won't expose the car to salt. The Tata steel parts are in good condition, the car is out of North Carolina and hasn't been driven in snow.

@@3ducs Good to hear, your S model is running well. I am south of you in RI, and I sometime come up to NH to run at Loudon or Tamworth race tracks.

@@handhwiegman8115 That Tamworth track is beautiful! I live about 15 miles from it, I doubt I'll ever get on it but I did drive around the access road, wonderful track, beautiful views of the NH mountains surrounding it.

Check out MassTuning. www.motorsportreg.com/events/masstuning-trackfest-jun-14-2024-club-motorsports-156895

James, I specified the Quaife ATB for the rear differential on modern Jaguar V6 and I4 engined cars. Note the V8 F-Types usually feature an electronically controlled rear differential which is a bit more complicated. The front differential is smaller than the rear differential. AWD V6 cars can still benefit from a Quaife equipped rear differential. It just has to maintain the same gear ratio to match the front differential ratio. Do you think there will be good value in upgrading the front differential to a helical ATB?

I wonder what the front differential looks like on the AWD Jags… they could be based upon a Ford unit, or perhaps an other application that may offer an LSD upgrade. It just takes a motivated individual to purchase a unit from a junk yard and attack it with some calipers to get the ball rolling.

@@OncaEngineering I appreciate the reply, I'm seriously considering building an ultra high horsepower all-wheel-drive F-Type to compete against some of these F150s that are running the streets. Diff strength is very important. Your Quaife upgrade gave me hope.

Glad to be of help. You can do it!

Great to hear of your interest. Look for an updated video in a week's time or so.

My pleasure. And you will soon have a new diff for your F-Type. I will be building units after testing the first one. But first i have to get my back in order after torquing it making this video!

Howard, this ATB should work with most Jaguars equipped with the Dana 44 AdvanTEK rear differentials. This covers most 4 and 6 cylinder gas powered Jags from 2014 to 2024 (F-Pace, F-Type, XE, XF) take a picture of your rear differential and i’ll get back to you. OncaEngineering at Gmail dot com

Jon. Great to hear. Check out the videos on the LSD tear down.. and i will also post a new video on LSD rebuild. Sorry to hear that your car’s shifter feels mushy. The rear tranny mount isn’t the stiffest, so could use an inspection. Or do you see any engine tilt under torque?

@@OncaEngineering Not sure about the engine tilt, I'll investigate as soon as the car is out of winter hibernation. I'll get back to you in a month or so. :)

@@jonaslundin5508 I am thinking about your shifter. The lower portion of the shifter does have a plastic ring which locates the shift stick ball into the nylon cup. If this plastic ring is loose, then the bottom of the shifter may pop out and feel very sloppy. Can you lift up on you shifter and does it pop free from the ball-joint cup? or is it captive?

@@OncaEngineering It doesn't pop free, but I also only get the problems after a couple of laps when the car is hot. When the car is cool the gear shifting feels notchy and precise. After a couple of laps on attack, it feels like it is difficult to go from 2nd to 3rd gear or vice versa, especially if I'm driving through a corner. I was therefore speculating that it might be due to the transmission mounts (which would explain the problem while cornering) but I struggle then to explain the heat issue. Unless the existing mounts get softer when hot?

I should add that I'm competing in Time Attack and pushing the car (and myself) to the limit. So I can imagine this could be an issue rarely encountered by other drivers. :)

Yeah, I was motivated to develop this solution which is lower maintenance than the S-model LSD, and applicable to more than just one gear ratio (3.31:1) and I really want better cold/rainy day grip, as well as better corner exit grip. I think an upgrade kit for the rear differential is within many home mechanics capability, let me develop the tool list and publish the instruction set to gauge interest.