Відео

Pi in its wonky enclosure before I replaced the bottom electronics compartment completely. it just did not fit in the original compartment lol. look for the newer videos what has happened to the printer lol

@@Mark-k1l5p sense_resistor: 0.022 that was the cause when my steppers were running hot and slow

That’s what mine are set to and current at 1.6. Should I change them?

[stepper_x] step_pin: !PG0 dir_pin: !PG1 enable_pin: !PF15 microsteps: 128 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: !PG14 #tmc5160_stepper_y:virtual_endstop homing_retract_dist: 0 homing_speed: 100 position_endstop: -22 position_max: 365 position_min: -25 [tmc5160 stepper_x] cs_pin: PD11 spi_software_miso_pin: PA6 spi_software_mosi_pin: PA7 spi_software_sclk_pin: PA5 #diag1_pin: !PG9 run_current: 1.6 sense_resistor: 0.022

Do you have the jumper on the 5160 for stealth chopper

are you running on stealthChop? also, I wonder if you want a lower TOFF of like 2? I'm probably the wrong person to ask tho

@@szymonosa153 LDO 2504AC SpeedyPower, BTT 5160T Plus at 48V 1.6A

NIDEC turbine for Xiaomi/Roborock robovac

do you mean what turbine I use or the airflow as in m/s or cm3/s..? google translate only does so much, sorry :D

the table is actually made of metal with a wood top :D :D I know, it's bad

hi. it's CrownCooler toolhead modified for Peopoly Lancer Long. LDO 2504AC-s for XY

yes, LDO 2504AC steppers on 48V

thanks. noone has mentioned this before if I remember correctly. when I started modding the Reborn 2 into Trident I thought about mounting the electronics to the back like RatRigs do it or to the top like Doomcubes now do it. Eventually I decided to keep it in the printer and down low for colder air and it's actually quite accessible if the printbed and its frame are removed. with transparent panel it's also cool to see all the blinking lights :D

you are correct. this is why I'm not using it for a while now. look the newer videos

@@gerritjanknecht3323 200W. the load is momentary not constant, so it should be fine. I’m contemplating wether I should go with Kraken 2WD with 3GT belt or 2504AWD

@@vahvelpoiss hey thanks for the tip. I just saw that I have to keep the 24V anyway because the BTT board needs 24V for the system. So the 48v only has to power the steppers. Hmm, installing a wide belt will be difficult, with a 20 mm profile, I would be interested to know how you solve it. AWD would still be interesting for me, that's why I bought the Kraken, they still have reserves. I wish you much success ;-)

@ I use 6mm belt

it can if you make a custom carrier for it. rest of the toolhead with stay the same, but you need to attach the belts and endstops to it somehow. I'm using Chaoticlab's CNC TAPv2 so it's really independent of where the rail is as long as the mounting pattern is the standard Voron SB one for the main toolhead parts.

I don't quite get the hint, sorry :D

​@@vahvelpoissYour toolhead looks like it is teleporting. According to Martin

@@Zigzag3269tf I take it as a compliment. doing teleportation on a 350-size printer isn't that common.

it's going nowhere, it sits nicely on a silicone. I will mount it properly once I have the frame rebuild done but I'm currently still waiting the last parts

yes, but it's now become just a random thread because of me :D where can I send you the invitation?

Amazing work! Would it be okay to send the invite here? though links wont work so maybe the last few bits of the url should do i guess

​@@rockman9h02m discord*dot*gg/VMgqm7na

well, if you look closely, it still has the bottom black frame it originally came with and I also still use the original filament sensor :D

good point, added info to the description

look the newer videos. old dual-z parts are removed. frame gets 100% overhaul once I receive 4040 corner posts. gotta finish it before the end of the year so I can start with Tradrack next year :D

ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/determining_max_speeds_accels.html#usage-of-the-test_speed-macro

where would be the fun in that?

@@aleksandrcrypter648 which ones? XY joints or motor and idler plates? Voron XY joints are Funssor from Aliexpress, motor plates are laser-cut aTinyShellScript design (use google to find that)

this print was just 10k for most moves. inner wall 7k, outer wall 5k, travel 10k, infill 10k

@@vahvelpoiss k thanks

какие двигатели в осях xy ?

@@pcservice392 LDO 2504 SpeedyPower 1.8deg

good eye 😀

@@vahvelpoiss I use it on all of my printers so far. Might try Archetype Blackbird on my next build. 😁👍

@@Anziilife I wanted to try out XOL but still ended up working on my mod of CrownCooler for Peopoly Lancer Long hotend. it is now finished for my setup and at some point I might add extruder support etc. thought about going for XOL instead because of support for both cooling types (4010, xolpap), but I figured out how to make 4028 axial fan make enough pressure to feed the ducts until I get the electronics delivered from PCBway for Nidec turbine. alot is going on, but I reckon I wont be using XOL and try to work out as much as possible with CrownCooler even though the name sucks 😂

@@vahvelpoiss most of these projects are rabbit holes. My current project started out as an old Solidoodle 3. It now has CoreXY kinematics with a mod in order to use the Voron Legacy X carriage, just finished printing the Salad Fork BFI remix I made for easier tensioning and then I'm going to make a remixed version of the Belted Z Trident in order to hold a RatRig 200x200 bed with 500W heater 😜

@@Anziilife mine was 325x325x325 Flying Bear Reborn 2. only thing left is the bottom base and the original serial number and other model descriptions on a plate that was cut out from the original electronics compartment. today I decided to pull out the CANBUS pieces but because I have 400mm of travel on X-axis and the print plate is 350x350 now, I might reinstall CAN in the future for IDEX rebuild, but that's far in the future :D

no. 24V 200W and 48V 200W PSUs are separate units

@@vahvelpoiss thanks

@@albelab3d before you start using make sure you connect the grounds together

@@vahvelpoiss currently still thinking about making my 2.4 48V AWD..

@@shymon5887 yes, at 48V and 128 microsteps and I just use filled filaments if I want nice looks or adjust the speeds

@@vahvelpoiss Yeah for me it performs good above 400mm/s and then I dont see any vibrations

you are correct

pardon?

@@vahvelpoiss Step files, from the construction project

@@Akiko_Yuuki they are FUNSSOR parts off of Aliexpress, I have no files or rights for the design of these

oh you can actually see Z-pieces right there, not sure if you actually watched it. it was transitioning like every other modern person 🫣

@@vahvelpoiss Yeah, I saw front rails mounted on the wrong side. ;) It it easy to be confused by following the Voron docs. Anyway just keep the printer alive, and fast... :)

@@crnalajna couldn't mount them to the right side because of thick industrial veneer sidepanels that use printed mounts for M5 bolts. had to make my own temporary design to figure stuff out and soon get some metal plates in the mix. it's a hobby project and I like figuring stuff out myself, keeps training the mind edit: look at newest upload

at that particular time - no

only with 8k RPM 5015 and if you mainly print anything but PLA. SB also has really good aftermarket and mod support, so it's one of the easiest toolheads to build and mod. however, I'm in process of modifying Voron CrownCooler by sneakytreesnake to fit another less know hotend and it's meant to be mounted to CNC TAP which I'm currently running with my Stealthburner. I've tried Stealthburner with CPAP mod and it was actually quite decent, but I want more cooling with less weight. tl;dr - if you have something better right now, then no. if you are running stock toolhead on your Reborn 2? XOL. do Stealthburner only if you like to tinker

aTinyShellScript metal plates are used for idlers and motor mounts. I just got my hand on recycle bin special and used 4mm stainless steel lol

@@왕경민-z3v by extrusion you mean frame size?

up to 400mm/s with 600mm/s travel and up to 35k accels, 2WD at 24V with 2209s

@@vahvelpoiss that's some crazy speeds for that setup, is there any other tricks or is it just really well dialed in?

@@alfiegordon9013 possibly dialing. microsteps and everything. as of writing this reply I'm doing my first prints with Octopus Pro v1.1 MCU and 5160Plus drivers on XY at 27V as that was maximum I got out of my old 24V PSU :D

yep. stealthburner is maxed out

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 no

cool story, bro. did you see where I mentioned Stealthburner toolhead?

if you can show me 5 stock printers reatch do an 8 min benchy with stock settings I will eat my socks

I love that the rubber duck is just chillin in the back

@@wildeastdemo9710 LDO 2504 SpeedyPowers for XY. fully assembled X with toolhead should be at around 800 grams iirc. way better compared to FBR2 original 1.4 kilos

@@vahvelpoiss Thanks a lot

these are Funssor XY joints if I recall correctly. the printed idlers are cool, but the pin design has issue that when printing in hot enclosure, one of the pins wants to come out and not even bearing glue helps. I've decided to take off the XY joints and hammer the ends of the pins at work or replace the pins with nails of the same size and hammer the ends of these wider with a chisel. I tried using bolts, but bolts are loose in there and give almost no support to the printed idler.

@@vahvelpoiss Oh OK, interesting. I had assumed the printed idlers were retained in a different way. Well let us know how it works out for you.

@@grasstreefarmer well, replaced the pins with nails today. looks dope seeing the texture top surface rotate and reflect the light when moving lol. will do couple of hot prints to see if they are still backing out

travel 600mm/s 35k accel, print speeds up to 250mm/s and 10k accel for quality, jerk up to 15mm/s. 35k accel for everything when I want to do benchy :D

largest print with enclosure has been 330x260 and it printed with almost no warping out of ASA-X CF10

between the plastic and the metal frame

between the plastic and the metal frame

yes, that is the plan, everything just takes a bit time as it's a custom build, measurements are way off compared to a kit-built Voron :D

Bambu X1C clone with CHT nozzle. so far I have been able to go up to 40mm3/s with it which is insanity for how cheap this thing is. only upgrades would be something similar like Vz Goliath. Rapido UHF just looks better and is like 6-9 times more expensive lol

@@vahvelpoiss Thanks! And what are you using for the extruder if you don't mind me asking? His pushes TPU out of the side rather than through the hotend. LOL!

@@MrWaalkman HGX Lite, uses Sherpa Mini mounting

@@vahvelpoiss Thank you! I will pass that on to him. :)

FBR2 BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 /w Klipper BTT Microprobe RaspberryPi 3B+ /w Mainsail MAK Vector printhead with ducted carrier Volcano hot-end /w 40W cartridge, 0.6 hardened steel nozzle LDO 1.8deg XY steppers running 1.1A Ceramic bearings in all 3 linear rail carts Wiring in the works, bottom service latch dremeled for 92mm fan for better electronics cooling. keep checking the video descriptions if there are new videos coming, I'll keep these updates unless I forget :D

Klipper