Відео

@craigmayhan8620 The switch is a double pole, double throw (DPDT); you use each "throw" (position up vs. down) to change the direction the current flows through the motor. Essentially you're swapping which lead is positive and negative. Here is a schematic diagram from digikey forum.digikey.com/t/polarity-reversal-using-a-dpdt-switch/626. Here is another blog post telling how to use a DPDT switch to change motor direction www.robotroom.com/DPDT-Bidirectional-Motor-Switch.html

@@JoshIlles Yes, the switch on off on reverses the direction of motor, not the issue, what wires go where, went to the listed sites, all Greek to me. 2 wires coming out of motor, (DC ) power supply, converts AC to DC, wires coming out of power supply 2, with a plug. Cut off plug? split wire and connect to ?Where, switch? Motor? alligator clips on end and just test connection?, don't want to burn up a 75 dollar motor. all wires go to switch? (have wired up electric trains, is this the same concept ? Thanks

Ron, I have one, I just generally leave it unlocked. I haven't experienced any problems

Great I will do this as well. @@JoshIlles

Not sure what motor you have. If it's the same style but if it's faster (higher RPM) it might not have enough torque. It's hard/ impossible to say the motor you need based on those specs as the motor power requires depends on your table weight, the friction between the rack and pinion (gear that makes the table go up and down), and your desired speed. That being said, I'm sure you've already checked, but it always helps as a sanity check to make sure the table is unlocked 🤣 You can check if your power supply is not beefy enough if you have a multimeter. Set it to check voltage and put it on the output of the power supply, it should read 12/24V, whatever the power supply is rated at. Then start the motor, if it dips significantly, then the power supply might not be enough. If you check the current on the motor name plate, there should be a rating, it might be named FLA (full load amps), I'd pick a power supply based on that and double the current as head room (ex 5a motor current = 10a power supply) just to be safe. Hope some of this information might help, good luck, I'll answer any questions I can 👍

​@@JoshIlles I got the same style you posted but the next one up because the one you posted was not available. I'm starting to think the PS is the problem. Thanks for all of the info, great stuff. I will check the voltage drop and see what I get. The amperage for the motor states 4 amps, my PS is 6 amp... just might be the PS. Thanks for taking time to reply to my question. As I said, " I'm LOST " !

@@JoshIlles I thought I had replied before this to your posting but just incase. First, thanks for the information, just what I needed. I just ordered a 15 amp power supply and it should be here tomorrow, 5/16/23. I'm hoping it will spin the motor at a reasonable speed, if I remember correctly the rpm for the motor was either 160 or 180. Thanks again for the info, thanks for the great posting. It will have taken me even longer to gather the correct parts, at least I had a good starting point. GOD Bless

Hello, Josh and others reading this posting. I was having a problem where the motor that Josh had suggested, wouldn't operate my Drill Press Table. I couldn't find a Power Supply (PS) like the one suggested so I purchased a PS with 50% more Amps than needed, but I wasn't correct in my power needs, what is needed is something two or three times the needed amperage of the motor. I have, at Josh's suggestion, made a few electrical measurements, Power Drop when the motor is under load, and the current draw when running. As it turns out, with the electrical measurements and Josh's suggestions I purchased a 15 amp, 24 volt PS... Drum Roll please... The motor operates my table, happy joy,,, a little slower than I wanted but it will do until this motor decides to say good night. My Table is a 20+ inch Cast iron Unit, heavy is the main underlying pressure that slows this Table down to where I'm thinking MORE TORQUE ! Thanks to Josh Illes and the others who made a suggest. It is working and I am happy with this mod, again thanks Josh.

I tried a Power Supply with three times the amperage and it worked out. It probably could use some more amperage but for now it is working and not getting hot. My granddaughter thinks I'm a wizard setting it up... so thanks for the help !

Honestly, I don't ever clamp it and I don't have many issues. If you haven't already, Marius Hornberger just released an awesome video on his drill press upgrades that include an auto clamp. His stuff is next next level.

@@JoshIlles After I posted my comment I thought; hmmm, is there even a need to clamp? The 'rules' say you should, but realistically it shouldn't matter. Thanks, and thanks for telling me about Marius's video.

I'm honored you think my video has that much influence 🤣.

Is that the 160rpm motor? Thanks for your time!

April, so your motor is still spinning when you turn it on? Does it get up to full speed? Does it blow a breaker after a while? Is your arbor bent? Is the power cord in good shape (no Knicks or dents). Can you freely rotate the motor by hand (when off obviously) or does it feel like it's sticking? Do you have it wired for 120V (standard, out-of-the-box in USA) or 240V? I had never worked on/ with motors before this either. I felt really uncomfortable about it, but took it slowly, one step at a time and got it to work.

@@JoshIlles yes still spinning, it seems to start off with power then sounds like it starts to slow or bog down. Hasnt blew a breaker. The arbor seem to be fine, after into belt off I gave it a spin as well as the motor, neither the arbor or motor for that matter feels like they have any resistance. I wired it for 240 when I got it, single dedicated outlet from double pole 20A breaker. I’m just at a loss… and not looking forward taking it apart. And having to redo the setup lol. I spent way to long first time. Mostly because I’m ocd about shit being fine tuned

I’ll be back out to the shop here shortly and I’m gonna give each a hand turn again and see if I hear anything

@@aprilsutherby2068 just guessing, maybe the bearings? I'd change out the caps first since as things go, they are the easiest to fix. I hear ya on not wanting to rip it apart, I did it twice in a week... But good news is the second time is *always* faster. I hope your motor isn't shit since it isn't standard, it will be hard to find a replacement. I assume you did, but when you changed to 240V, you reconfigured the wiring on the motor correct?

@@JoshIlles I kinda thought bearings too, yes I definitely rewired the motor, I went ahead and took a peek in there too just to make sure no cap had fallen off or the that compartment filled up with dust for some reason and I was relatively clean and everything looks fine. And I took the cap off the back of the motor and spin the fan and it’s not I think I can hear a faint Uhh. Like a soft faint dragging noise inside the motor, The pulley for belton the other side of the motor is audible but barely and sounds smooth. Out curiosity I flipped it on and turned the tilt wheel to drop the saw from horizontal more vertical, and it definitely kind of changes the noise that it’s making. And it seems to get a little louder more

IMHO... straight up and down gives you the option of tilting the table without interference. I'm in the process of TRYING to get my table motorized and mine is parallel to the column.

@@grevillebalzarini3684 I don't understand what you mean. With this design, mounting the motor to part of the table that rotates, you have no option to tilt the table regardless of how the motor is mounted to it. Clocking 90 here still makes it more compact and costs you no function. To be able to still use your tilt function, you would need to mount the motor to the portion of the table that traverses up and down the column where it doesn't rotate. So, motor and switch on the part the table that traverses up and down the column. And then whatever table you want to have on your press, including the one it came with. That is what I ended up doing and used the drill press table I already built. I don't tilt my table anyhow. I find it cumbersome and not repeatable. I have it locked at dead 90 degrees to the quill and I don't mess with it. I use the Woodpeckers Duax when I need angled holes. Which has the added bonuses of being more repeatable and providing more ease in accuracy.

@@StoneyMeyerhoeffer Thanks for the reply. My motor, the same design as the posting, is all mounted to the Gear Box of the Drill Press Lift System. It is out of the way of the Table be tilted. I'm not sure how to post pictures then I could show you what I have done.

@@grevillebalzarini3684 That is what I said to do. The gear box is the "part of the table that traverses the column" My point is that my comments about clocking the motor were specific to his design.

@@StoneyMeyerhoeffer My misunderstanding, sorry.

No functional reason, just thought it looked better!

I couldn't find the exact 24V 160RPM motor. I was able to find a 100 RPM 12V motor: www.amazon.com/Makermotor-Shaft-Reversible-Electric-Motor/dp/B0765KZ3TJ/ It will be a little slower and will need a 12V power supply instead of a 24V power supply. Generally, you can google "24V gear motor" and look for one at a similar speed with a power greater than or equal to about 80 watts. To find out what size power supply you need, take the power of the motor (80W) and divide it by the voltage (12V) and that will give you the current (6.67A). Add 20% (~8A) and look for a power supply that can output at least that much current.

You're right! It would definitely make it a lower profile. I'm not sure if there was a particular reason I went vertical

@@JoshIlles i was only thinking if you went to full down travel, would it hit the motor or run out of travel on the strip of gear down the side? Either way it wouldn't take much to rotate it lol. Still an awesome idea and execution.

Thanks! I plan to, I am working on making them more frequently!

Added the link to the video description and also available below. I uploaded all the files I could find. Unfortunatley, I couldn't find the template used to route out the gap for the switch box. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/138913-motorized-drill-press-switch-box

@@JoshIlles Thank you!

That's awesome!! I use it way more than I ever thought I would!

Thanks for the kind words! Hopefully I can create more than one video a year in the future 🤣. Knowing people watch and enjoy is certainly motivation!