Відео

Solar systems I’ve seen always put the main disconnect on the positive side. For my system I put it on the positive. It may not matter which side you put it on as long as you achieve a complete disconnect. I have multiple grounds in my system so it was easier for me to install it on the positive side. You may need to check with an electrician to validate your design. As for jump starting my engine battery with my coach / solar batteries… my design could safely do this as I believe each battery BMS had a 100 Amp rating and they are connected in parallel providing a 300 amp capability. Bottom line, it depends on your battery/ies BMS capability. Most BMS’ have an over-current shut off, but I would never want to rely on that. Again, check with an electrician and your product specifications. Note, I no longer use that original design, it was short term. I now have six batteries in parallel… see my other videos.

Amazon

I purchased everything from Amazon, I do not have the links to share. I just searched until I found the correct part I needed.

No, not at this time. Mine is just the Multi-plus 3kVA

I do not have a schematic that I can share.

Yes

@@coryhanes bonus 🎉. Definitely adding to my build.

Thank you

Ground bus

Some I got from explorests.life and I also bought raw copper stock from Amazon and fabricated the bar I needed.

Did you try their website? This link is for a sales person, find your state and click on it. This may work better than the phone. server51.hwhcorp.com/?page_id=113251

The small gage red and black wire pair (wrapped with the yellow cat-5 next to inverter) goes to the negative post of the batteries. It’s a temperature sensor.

It was temporary until I installed the inverter charger months later.

@@coryhanes Ahhh ok awesome!

@@coryhanes Thanks for the video, so hard to find videos like this adding these components to existing RV systems. Everything is either massive 50A split phase systems on class A's or New install/vans.

Check out Explorist Life, he has many videos on solar systems. I learned a lot from his page. ua-cam.com/users/EXPLORISTlife

Ditto, the wood in the coils was very difficult. I did see a video just last month where I guy used his vehicle to stretch (open) the spring between the hitch on the rv and the bumper of his vehicle. He backed up his vehicle just enough to put the wood shims in between the coils. This worked nice for him; however, I would be concerned of over stretching the spring. So the pry tool seems to be the best if you have a way to build one. Can you share a picture of your custom tool? My email is coryrhanes@gmail.com

All the grounds are connected together at the Lynx distributer (negative bus). The negative bus grounds to the chassis of the Motorhome. There are a few other Fidel’s on my channel that may illustrate this better.

Blue Sea Systems 300 Amp m-Series Battery Switches a.co/d/ezZeTlM

Mostly it’s set that way from the factory but there are some settings. You can set a current limit on the AC input for the inverter. For example, if you’re RV is plugged into a 15 amp receptacle you can set the input current limit to 12 amps. At this point the inverter will only draw up to 12 amps to change batteries and/or pass through to AC1. The AC1 output is inverted power drawing power from the combination of AC input and your batteries. Therefore AC1 output may have more current on it than AC input depending on the power demand on AC1. Lastly, AC2 is only an AC power pass-thru from the AC input. This output is not affected by the current limit settings for the inverter. So you must be careful not to over draw between AC1 and AC2. For my setup the RV has a 30 amp shore input, my air conditioner units (2 each) draw 9 amps each. This equates to 18 amps passing through AC2; therefore, I set the current limit for AC input to the inverter for 10 amps so I do not draw more than 30 amps from the shore power. This 10 amps would be used for charging the batteries and/or providing power on AC1 for RV appliances and receptacles. Again, when power demand on AC1 becomes higher than 10 amps then the inverter will draw power from the batteries to make up the difference. That would be rare in my application because my RV is a 30 amp rig. Hope that helps.

Check with the manufacturer of your equipment for recommended wire gauge size per the applied use of what you are doing. Every system can be different. Also, you can find webpages that provide the ampacity of the wire to help you size it correctly. There are many things to take into consideration, wire gauge, wire type, insulation type, heat in which the wire lives in, conduit or no conduit, etc.

Also you should check out Explorest.Life UA-cam channel he has much on calculating wire size.

Both bus bars are the same. I purchased them pre-cut and drilled from Explorest.Life UA-cam channel. He has a lot of information on solar. Or you can buy the copper bar from Amazon, cut and drill yourself, which I did in my later phases when I added a ground bus.

I may have misspoke… in this phase one, I installed the solar charge controller and a battery charger. The solar charge controller only charges the batteries when there is sun light and the charger allows charging with 120 VAC (generator or shore power). Having these two options allows charging when solar isn’t enough, like on a cloudy day. As for the inverter/charger I installed that in phase two. Before installing the inverter charger I removed the charger as both are not required.

Please keep in mind that should you have an over volt condition driving into that Victron it's going to make lots of heat doing the job . Many fires started that way .

@@Nostrildomus Thank you for the info, the max open (no load) voltage from the solar panels (4 ea in series) is about 90 volts. So there’s plenty of margin.

TEMCo Lug Crimper Tool TH0012-8 AWG - 0000 AWG(4/0) DIELESS Indent Electrical Battery Terminal Cable Wire 5 YEAR WARRANTY www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJYVFSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7D29E1WVCAFR2JRE57ZK

Explorist Life was key on much of my learning along with a couple others

VictronEnergy Lynx Distributor 1000

I think it’s pretty safe, you’ll see in later videos that I moved the batteries to a separate compartment to reduce the chance of over heating the them, and I added an automatic cooling fan that turns on when it gets warm in the electrics compartment.

You can get copper bar stock on Amazon 3/4” x 1/4 x length, then cut and drill to your application. Or you can acquire them through ua-cam.com/users/EXPLORISTlife great RV DIY page.

@@coryhanes thank you

That is correct. I’m using the Lynx Distributor. But keep in mind the LEDs do not function unless you plug in a device to the status port (RJ11) such as the Cerbo GX or the shunt designed for this system. I cheated and provided the 5VDC to the RJ11 to get the LEDs to function. Not really necessary but I like the the quick glance feature to see if any fuses are blown.

There is a risk of excessive over heat (catastrophic run away). It’s rare, but this is the very reason why planes do not allow lithium batteries in your luggage.

@@coryhanes Sir, that is Li-on think phones etc. Lifepo4 is inherently safe, heavier and less energy dense but safe.

@@GluttonywithaGerman actually LiFePO4 batteries are some of the lightest batteries. In general they are about 1/3rd the weight of a lead acid battery and twice the useable amp hours than lead acid and AGM. For example the large lead acid batteries I pulled out of my motorhome are 74 lbs each where as the LiFePO4 battery with twice the capacity is only 24 lbs. yes the battery is typically safe but they go into overheat if charging too fast or if one cell out of many internally shorts. It depends on the build quality of the battery.

These are full sheets of labels that I print in my printer. LSL-82C is the one I use. Here’s a link… www.labelidsystems.com/cable-labels/wrap-around-cable-laser-labels/lsl-82.html

Amazon. It’s a VictronEnergy Lynx Distributor 1000 Amp

That’s a good idea.

@@coryhanes You might also want to put some heat-shrink on that tie-down bar just to ensure it doesn't accidentally short the positive connections down the all-thread to chassis ground.

@@KennethLongcrier good recommendation, I have the large heat shrink so just might do that.

4/0… did I say 4 gage in the video? If I did that’s a mistake. All battery cables are 4/0 high strand count welding wire.

@@coryhanes no I just wasn't sure Wich you were saying ty

Thank you

Thank you for your input, I’ll look into this. Keep in mind that the fuses are in place to protect the wires in the case of a catastrophic event. This bus bar is a VictronEnergy Lynx Distributor product. I’m using the recommended fuses for this application. As for your concern of short circuit current capability, I have installed a 400 Amp T-fuse as close as possible to the positive post of the battery bank… you can see this in the additional videos for this project. Lastly, the batteries have a built in protection in the BMS.