Відео

If push fit was like Lego figures it would be the greatest thing ever because unlimited possibilities without a load of modeling skill, glue, and green stuff. But they chose the most boring path they could of mono pose that requires modeling tools and materials if you want anything other than standard issue pose with part one can only ever go with part two.

Love your stuff brother

Far an away the biggest issue with Citidel paints is when they inevitably dry out. Dried bits of paint get into the rest of the paint. SO when you you go to paint the model, suddenly little dried bits of paint end up on the model. Requiring either being quick with a hobby knife or ruining the smooth paint job when you remove it later.

Get a hobby drill and drill out the socket so that it's just a little oversized. The post/rod and socket will help line everything up OK, but the fit wont be so tight that the edges never quite meet. Still needs glue An alternative, if you can reach the socket with clips, is to cut the socket at a diagonal. So that the fit isn't quite so tight. Still needs glue. Last, I would cut the post/rod off. This requires a newbie to line things up as they glue. Perfectly OK for a more experienced person, bit perhaps not great for a newbie. Overall, I get what they were going for. But the execution is a bit of a miss. Mostly due to tight tolerances that tend to leave you with ugly gaps that need filling and sanding. Or you are doomed to an unsatisfying paint job that never hides those gaps.

Fellow Dane here, while I agree on Citadel products those AK bottles come with there own set of problems. They leak when shakien no matter how hard you screw the top lid on, which will also split the dropper tip. Resulting in loss of excess paint. The leaking I have also experienced from Vallejo and to a lesser extent AP. IMO the best dropper bottle by far is the old Green Stuff World, they feel sooo smooth, but I could imagine they are also quite expensive to produce.

problem is the fit think is done With no extra tooreland; so it klike fit in 3d program but when you cast model a bit of air can make that peg will not go all in;that a problem pegs shuld be shorter and a bit angle in fron to easer center the pice so the part around the fit stop the pusing par and compresion of iar will not prevent the part to ceneting toogeder;

After puting together about a dozen of Underworlds warbands I worked out a method for pushfits. Sand down the pins a bit so they're thinner and round their tips, works about 90% of the time. When in doubt just put some plastic glue where parts meet outer sections of the model

Modern push fits are often a horror to build . A slight bend a 0,1mm gap for ANY reasons and you are getting 2-3mm gaps some place else . And dissassembling doesn't help, you can in fact make it worse. And l say this after 3+ decades of dealing with gw models. Assault on Black reach, isle of blood, the dwarf pass one . Those were ETB made for new players.

Thanks for the heads up information I too am a grumpy old man and the last thing I need is to waste paint and money in transferring the paint into the dripper ones. Thanks again. 👍👍👍

"those fucking names" you're my spirit animal

Push fit is nice because I can build models in my room without making it smell like glue. But on the other hand it is much more frustrating than just using plastic cement. It can also be frustrating when you put on a part in the wrong order forcing you to practically break the model to get the next part in.

I bought the introductory set as my first ever journey into table top. I did find the push fit to be extremely helpful tbh. BUT i did a lot of preparation and went very slowly with everything and made sure not to break the little nubs. Its absolutely not a good gift for a child because of this. Final note, Im halfway through painting everything now! Cant wait to finish

I am no model expert I did a couple models horribly as a child, but I will say this. I had a friend who had family in Japan and one day he brought me a Gundam he got while visiting family. I was insanely impressed with how the gundam went together. I remembered struggling with glue as a kid, but was so shocked with how well the Gundam came together and how amazing it looked. I still have that Gundam I think it's been maybe 15 years.. Never glued it, I think some of the joints are a bit looser now, but still impressive.

I mean for a horde army like with the leviathan Termagaunts and it being maybe 3 pieces together the push fit works alright, but I agree with you the Bigger one's are rather annoying to try and fit together and then you get a piece that's huge or sticks out and you end up breaking it off because you slipped is frustrating. I mean having them in some place's as sort of a guide like you put the tail on then leg's and boom bottom half is done, it's acceptable and easy to get into, Maybe it's just because I have big clumsy hand's.

Push fit stuff sucks and looks cheap, normal models + the ultra thin cement from tamiya is much nicer to build. Also the glue more or less makes sure any gaps between the parts are filled. And also you can't pose the push fit models.

Kit bash your easy to build model parts with multi part kits. Takes a lil extra work and cash but you can get some unique models that way.

Push fit is horrible, I always snip the "male parts" off and glue the parts together .edit - would love to see the terrain as the next video, but both subjects sound awesome :)

I couldn’t take it any more. I’m still using the contrast paints until I find a better alternative.

I usually cut off the push fit pegs and glue them together anyway. I just find it helps get rid of any gaps between the pieces.

I will try to paint my forgefiend like you. Thx!

The Games Workshop paint bottles sum up everything that is wrong with the company. Games Workshop is universally poor value. The books expire every 2-3 years, the models are push-fit and are priced based on their game points.. and, yes, the paints are very poor quality. Luckily, we don't have to take it anymore. There are better paints, a massive plethora of high quality 3D printable models and amazing paints from Army Painter, ProAcyl and others that all put Games Workshop to shame.

😅

Filling the gaps, including the ones on the slota bases and cleaning up the mold lines is the longest part of getting these guys table top ready. Still like the kit though. Positives would be that they are easy to put together. You don’t need instructions. They are also good to paint as they have decent detail but aren’t over designed.

The few GW paints I have have been long lasting but only because I cut the lid off of the pot and cut away the stupid hinge and collar bit and the remaining lid fits back on perfectly. There is no build up in the lid and you get a perfect seal every time.

My guess for the holes in the cavalry bases, is that its the only kind that exist - so instead of also casting bases without holes, the already existing bases is just supplied, even though there is no pegs to fit into them for these boars

A long time ago someone said store your paints upside down the paint then seals the gaps and prevents the whole lot drying out. Unfortunately the new citadel paints don't lend themselves to storage upside down unlike the old ones - all part of the citadel conspiracy to consume paint faster!

amazing tank well done 👏 ✔️ 👍

great video, I like it, well done.

Love Citadel Paints. The only paints I've used that were better quality was Vallejo, which then also have a price tag to match. Army Painter, Scale75, and AK - the three brands that you showcased here - don't come close in terms of quality, imo.

I’ll admit I love their shades and contrast paint. But all their other products I can do without. The new AP paints are great and I love Pro Acryl and Vallejo.

Love your videos❤ painting my biovore following this video right now!

The silver grade brushes from GSW is really good - Been using them almost exclusively the last year'ish - cheap (compared to other natural brushes) and very good quality

Good video, shame that nobody has the money for everything else mechanicum.

I still use a few of them but mostly switched to the Fanatic line, and ordered the pro acrylic line to test out. Cleaning that rim out on the citadel paints was getting annoying.

100% agree , i haven't bought citadel for 3 years, without a fault, 9 out of 10 of the citadel paints i still have are all, either dried out or with very little left due to turnover failures . Im from the same Country as OP and the price of citadel is not equal to the quality.... I have 10 year old army paints that is still useable and in good shape.

takes me back. Used to use toothpicks to remove the paint from the cap. I didn't know any better back then. Personally, I'm learning to use artist paints, so I can mix. So I don't have buy loads of different colors. This has a bigger learning curve though. Also, they're no good for airbrushing, due to toxic pigments.

Understand your frustrations, but you’re probably lose most of your audience because most people use game workshop paints and when you use another paint range, people will look at you and go what’s that games workshop ?

I started painting miniatures in the 90ies - from my experience Citadel paints, brushes and tools always have been vastly inferior to comparable products from other companies and also they are way more pricey. Also i really do ot like the paint and it's consistency itself, wether it's due to the pigments or the carrier medium i can't say but if you ever used AK 3rd Generatio Acrylics you do not want to go back to Citadel.

GW pots are bad by design so that the paint dries up before you can use it, and they get to sell you a replacement pot. Remember, everything GW does is designed to get you to spend more money.

Vallejo and Pro Acryl is all you need!

The company is betting against the consumer in fact it's setting the consumer up for failure in order to extract extra value.. You are an extra value customer.. they reach deeper into your pockets.

What got me into buying citadels was that a lot of youtubers use them and as a beginner I basically copied what they did. Now I use Vallejo and AP. Especiallz, if you go into historical miniatures you will love Vallejos range! I 100% agree with your criticism here. Dropper bottles are just the superior dispensing tool. Mixing is harder but adding metal balls is an easier fix than tranfering paint to another bottle. I think AP adds them now to their factory paints.

Ive been in this hobby for about a year . And im VERY active in painting. (More on that later) And my most used paint is not even half empty . I think i have a shade that is half empty. But yeah This is why they do it . Paints last a reaaaaaaaally long time.

Tbh ive been thinking about if the little lip on the top is designed to leak paint into the seal. At first it seems like ots just a nice place tp take paint from but honestly its a completely useless feature that never picks up nicely shaken and mixed paint and always leaks paint into the seal. I just fill my paints into bottles that are actually designed to hold paint

Pros of ditching GW: no cleaning gunk out of the lid Cons of ditching GW: no cleaning gunk out of the lid

I agree with you, overpriced and inferior paint to AK, or Pro Acryl or Army painter fanatic. Pot design is a sort of intentional (I think) price gouge. I have a paint addiction, 1200+ bottles on the wall and almost no citadel paints.. the ones I do have I bought for $2 (canadian) each when a hobby shop was going out of business. So I have used some of them, hate the pots, and I wont buy more of them. Have a great week, love the rant.

But… nuln oil and Agrax earthshade? ……

Screw-on caps on Citadel pots were even worse, because even if you cleaned the lid, it was hard plastic and never had an air-tight seal.

"And you should be too."

I think most people start with Citadel like you do- the paints are right there next to the models so hey! One-stop-shopping and they have those handy guides!!! I was a Citadel fan for a long time simply because I didn't know better...once I did, and I started buying non-Citadel (I'll stay brand-agnostic here) I realized how much Citadel was ripping me off. Pot of paint MIGHT last three or four months if you take care of it and are lucky. Some other brands in non-Citadel containers I purchased over a year ago still pour, flow, and paint just like the day I bought them (for a much lower price point, I might add). Good luck in your journey to find replacements- it's a load of fun for me trying new paints!