Відео

To help me visualize the issue, can you send me a photo? First, contact me through this form on the Soundproofist website. It will send an email to me. When I respond to it, you can attach a photo. soundproofist.com/contact-us/

That's a perfectly reasonable request. But I'd have to time travel back to about 2007 with a smartphone and apps that didn't exist yet (maybe a physical decibel meter) and wait for some jack hammering to get those "before" measurements. I did capture a "knocking" test in a low-res video I made a very long time ago (see: ua-cam.com/video/SXdzxGZSTQk/v-deo.html), captured with a Sony Cybershot or something like that. The video isn't very effective --it just shows knocking on the original wall when it was hollow, and again after adding insulation and QuietRock drywall over it, which sounds more deadened.

Thanks! I think the plexiglass is pretty heavy. It's 1/4-inch thick. I've removed one of the side panels so I can open the side window during the summer, and I weighed it so I could give you accurate info. The panel is approximately 33 inches wide x 48 inches high - or 83.82cm wide by 121.92cm and it weighs 16.5 pounds, or almost 7.5kg

@@soundproofist Thanks for the reply. Btw, how do you attach the plexiglass to the window? No nails or anything? Thank u!

@@suwandicahyadi9213 The bottom of the plexiglass sits on the window sill for support. The two sides that extend over the drywall around the window opening are held in place by brackets that are screwed into the drywall. I slide the plexi into the brackets and then use small bits of EVA as "shims" to press the plexiglass firmly against the drywall (no gaps). On the side of one of the removable panels, I have a small gate latch that rotates up and dow, so I can turn that to release the plexiglass on that side to easily slide the piece out and open the sliding window behind it. Otherwise, it would be too hard to remove just one piece with all the brackets (too snug).

The open-cell foam panels aren't going to stop your sound waves from going into the wall and into your neighbor's apartment. They're meant for softening the acoustics for audio recording (to reduce echo and bounce). Typically, you need more mass (something more solid) combined with absorption (closed-cell foam or insulation) and some resiliency (decoupling with resilient channel, or a cheap workaround like adding a second layer of drywall over the existing drywall, with a layer of Green Glue inbetween). Some soundproofing experts disagree with me about the Green Glue/double drywall, but if it's just conversation noise and not deep bass or impact noise --- and if you own the condo, and you're not a renter -- this is something you can consider.

@@soundproofist Thank you so much for getting back to me. I have been doing a lot of research and there are so many products that advertise as "soundproofing" but the more I look into it only very few materials actually are, for what I can do in my condo. I am the owner, so I will look into doing what you suggested.

That's a great idea. I have no experience with seating, but it seems like a truck driver's seat could be mounted on the floor with anti-vibration springs to isolate it from the vibration coming through the floor from the engine and the road. What type of spring design? Good question. I would start by looking at sites like antivibration-systems.com/products/spring-mounts/ or kineticsnoise.com/spring-vibration-isolators. For the interior of the seat itself, the top portion of it needs to be ergonomically designed for comfort and support, yielding to human body shapes. EVA foam (which has good anti-vibration qualities) could factor in, but probably not in the very top-most part of the seat, which I assume needs to be more pliant. I'm sure you've been researching this already with articles like this one: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5799102/ ("Ergonomic considerations for designing truck drivers' seats: The case of Bangladesh").

@@soundproofist THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO!!!!!!

Thank you! And doors are a good topic. You're right that noise can come in through gaps around the door frame or under the door, so putting a thin strip of closed-cell foam around the frame and adding a door sweep will probably help. I think solid-core doors are required by building code in most places, and a lot of apartments in New York have metal doors. Heavy and solid is good for fire safety, noise, and general security. I should do a video about this topic, because I collect snippets of video in different places, including in my own building. My building has a winding corridor and multiple flights of brick steps. The bricks were highly noise-reflective and they created a lot of echo. I finally convinced my neighbors to let me put down some carpet runners on the landings. It was a struggle because I have one difficult neighbor who claims to smell everything intensely and that there would be off-gassing from the materials. Even though there's open windows and stairwells and plenty of opportunity to air out... plus we get car exhaust from the street and fumes from neighbors' leaf blowers, which is way more harmful than a faint, temporary smell from a carpet. Anyway, I'm pretty sure I have some before-after video captures to show how a few dollars worth of industrial carpet (with rubber backing) can minimize echo in building corridors,. Plus there are other wall and ceiling treatments that could also help. Thanks for the prompt!

Wow. I think this comment might be "Exhibit A." Some of us have adjacent neighbors who might be unaware of how their everyday activities can get transformed into a deep bass noise that bothers other people. And some people, when they become aware, are willing to make small changes in consideration of others. That's a lot cheaper than tearing parts of the building apart and trying to decouple it from the building frame. But then there's a smaller group that feels entitled, and they become hostile or unwilling to compromise for the greater good. If you've watched other videos on this channel, we get into all of these issues -- how noise travels, how building structures contribute to noise issues, flanking noise, different types of materials and what frequencies they mitigate, vibration noise versus airborne noise, and much more.

Lady, go scratch.

Hey lady if you walk like a god damn hippo.. it kinda becomes a everybodys problem.. we dont care if you own the apartment... respect others you crazy lil...

Unfortunately, yes, these days we pay premium prices for thin-walled housing. And we live in a era of "entitlement", so approaching someone with a reasonable concern (the impact of door slamming on adjacent neighbors) somehow escalates, when simply being considerate of others is free and easy to do.

For internal doors and for windows, I've removed the molding and sills from the original wall, and then added them back again after attaching another layer of drywall. This did seem to mute some of the noise that comes through the building frame from my downstairs neighbors because the top layer of drywall was made from sound-dampening materials. For security reasons, I think you would need to ensure that you have sufficiently strong framing to keep your entry secure (metal, etc.). I know there are "soundproof" doors made from fiberglass, but I'm not sure how strong they are compared to wood or metal. Apply silicone window seals, door sweeps, etc. to seal any air gaps around the entry door. Unfortunately, I don't have experience with brick walls. And as for chimneys -- this is a source of outside noise that's difficult to address because the air passage needs to be kept clear. I have this issue where I live. We can hear the faint sound of a neighbor's dog barking. It doesn't come through the walls, but it sneaks down the chimneys.

@@soundproofist Excellent response!

It doesn't measure vibration. It measures frequency (in Hertz) which sometimes corresponds to vibration, especially a low frequency under about 150 Hz. And it measures decibels, which of course don't tell the whole story. I've tried apps for vibration on my smartphone, and I didn't think they were effective for situations like this. The apps I've tried measured in Richter, and comparing floor and wall vibration to an actual earthquake makes the vibration nuisance seem insignificant when you measure an appliance like an air conditioner. However, I hope you saw the newest Soundproofist video, where I tested an external microphone plugged into a smartphone while running a decibel app. You can tape the microphone to a wall or floor and it should pick up more of that low-frequency noise in the building frame. Those noises are more structure-borne and not airborne. If you use SmarterNoise Pro, you should be able to turn on the video while you're measuring the noise, so you'll get a record of the decibel measurements, the frequency measurements, and an audio & video recording of the noise, all in one. However, it was only towards the end of the video that I did it correctly. And you'll see that compared to the iPhone app, SmarterNoise Pro registered lower decibels sometimes than the iPhone app (but I think the iPhone app might have been a little too high).

I looked on Amazon, and they do sell vibration meters. I can't attest for which one is the best option and I've never used one. Most of these meters seem to cost over $100, and go upwards from there. For example, this model shows at $179. Is it better than others? That depends on your criteria. It does claim to store records on the device, which I think is important. There might be others that meet your needs for a lower price. www.amazon.com/AMTAST-Vibrometer-Acceleration-Displacement-Measurement/dp/B0863PHL8K/

​@@soundproofistwhat was the mobile app you used for vibrations?

It depends on the situation. I typically use the average if there's only an occasional spike in loudness. For example, if there's a noise that's consistently around 65 dB, but there's an occasional spike to 86 dB, it would be inaccurate to imply that it was a continuous 85 dB noise. Does that help?

@@soundproofist yes thats what I mean. At my church the average is 85 dbs but it peaks to 94 .. should I conclude that its 85?

@@Alexxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx87 Yes, it sounds like that's the average, and it's already at the OSHA limit of 85 decibels!

@@soundproofist thankyou God bless

Hi. Your "use case" is a common issue that occurs in buildings with shared walls and floors. I think it's great that your neighbors are willing to cooperate. I do think the anti-vibration pads -- the type that are made like a sandwich -- are going to be more effective than just EVA alone or another dense, foam-like material, like neoprene. That's because you need more mass (in the rubber) combined with the absorbency and anti-vibration activity of the substance in the middle (EVA recommended). A thin layer of just foam might not be enough, and it might also compress under the weight of the wheels. The combination of materials is often what makes it more effective, and the ribbing on the top and bottom of the rubber, which goes in opposite directions, can break some of the path or transmission from the vibration before it gets into the floor. I would air out the pads for awhile before giving them to your neighbors, if you haven't done that already. I do think the odor dissipates after awhile, but if you keep them in a box, it might not. If it's a mobile A/C unit, do they move it around? They''ll always have to lift it up on top of the pads. Bear in mind that this will prevent direct transmission of noise/vibration into the floor of their apartment, but there might still be some airborne noise in the room, lower-frequency noise, that could become structure borne-noise when it reaches their walls, for example. So your first pass on this might not be 100%, though I'm sure it will help. ALSO....I don't think I would wrap the pads in bubble wrap (the bubbles will pop, anyway) and I honestly don't know if standard plastic wrap would affect their performance. Why not air them out, and if your neighbors complain of an odor after using them (but they reduce noise), try wrapping them in thin plastic wrap and see if they continue to perform well?

Unfortunately, a lot of apartments sound like that. It's torturous!

He's super knowledgable and I'm glad he shared some of his knowledge with us. It also reinforcd some of the things I've learned over the years. Glad you found it helpful!

Thank you! My personal favorite (since I use an iPhone) is the Decibel Meter app that I show in these videos, There are several apps with similar names. This one was developed by Ashraf Thoppukadavil. It's not 100% perfect, but it meets my needs. Reasons: 1) It turns on easily and requires no extra setup; 2) It captures both decibels and frequency; 3) You can set the meter to A or C-weighted decibels; 4) It captures a detailed record of the readings that you can download as a report. The downsides: 1) It's only available on iOS; 2) You can't capture audio or video recordings while you're tracking the decibels; and 3) Sometimes it might be a few decibels higher than a handheld or an Android app, though I think you can calibrate it lower.

Glad this video was helpful. You might even be able to use a lavalier microphone connected directly to your tablet or smartphone without the stethoscope. That's because the pickup pattern on a lavalier microphone is omnidirectional. You'll get more room noise, but it's also more sensitive in general, and most smartphones (probably tablets, too) have some noise cancellation. So use a lavalier -- they're not that expensive on Amazon -- and get the mic as close to the source or the path of the noise as you can. That could be attaching it to a wall, window, floor, or ceiling. And the lavalier itself is plugged directly into your device, so your device doesn't have to be right on the source... just connected by the mic cable. And yes, your device will use the external (lavalier) versus the built-in mic(s). You'll hear the difference in the playback right away. NOTE: I need to make a video about this, because this can be more effective in hard-to-reach places.

@@soundproofist Thanks for the feedback. I tried a few different USB mics, including lavalier, condenser and directional, and none of them picked up the downstairs noise in any appreciable manner. But, I could hear it throughout my living room, even when I had on white noise, air purifiers and even ear muffs. I believe this is because the noise was more "structural" in nature (vibrating through my hardwood furniture). So, microphone attached to stethoscope has proven the most effective way to capture both the noise and it's dba level in my apartment.

I don't think you want to spray foam inside your car. There are products you can buy to deaden the sound inside, but they're typically pretty heavy, with an adhesive backing. That's because most of the sound you probably want to block is low-frequency noise, so you need more weight and mass. Typically these products get applied on the floor of the car or the trunk, under the carpet/mat.

You're welcome!

You're welcome! Hope it's helpful to you!

I agree! It was surprising at how little difference the cork pads made and how much better the felt pads sounded. I do have soft-close style hinges on my cabinet doors, but they're very old, and sometimes act like a spring-loaded mousetrap.

Hi. I'm sorry to hear about this constant vibration noise in your building. It's somewhat encouraging that the builder was willing to try and minimize the issue, but it sounds like so far it's not effective enough. Has the builder (or any other person in authority) been inside your apartment to listen to the vibrations in person? Have you tried making measurements and collecting data with a decibel meter app or vibration app? (Sometimes these don't accurately convey the scope of the problem, though.) Yes, it's possible that some of the "hum" could be airborne and it could travel by air into the pillars, where it becomes structure-borne noise and gets "boomier," even though there's no obvious direct contact with the floor anymore. Two things I can recommend without having a lot more information. 1) Watch our interview with Al Fierstein in NYC about vibration noise, here: ua-cam.com/video/FS9T7woI8GE/v-deo.html and 2) Use the email form on the Soundproofist website at soundproofist.com/contact-us/ . After you send the form and get a response, you'll be able to send photos of the situation or even share an audio recording of the hum, if you're able to capture one.

@@soundproofist Thank you so very much for the kind response. Yes I have videos of everything from the air blowers to the "hum" although the hum sounds different in the videos. I downloaded the decibel meter app but it shows zero vibrations as it probably doesn't capture them effectively. The air blower company's team visited our home after the installation of acoustic enclosures, stayed for a few mins and denied our claims of any vibrations, sadly. They checked the vibrations on a vibration meter which showed zero vibrations. They said there might be some noise but it is not so much as to create any issues. Such is the situation in India, to be honest! It looks like they aren't going to pay much attention to this matter anymore as they seemingly deny our claims of noise. I can definitely reach out on the email provided with the necessary videos. It would mean the world to me, if I get any help in this matter

I think it's great that you're anticipating how to minimize the impact of the e-drum for your neighbors. So... here's what I'm thinking. You probably need to add more mass to the area of the floor where you play e-drums. Like, make a platform on top of the floor that adds mass but also doesn't directly touch the floor, so that it doesn't transfer vibration. Lots of ways you could do this, but let's say you buy a 1/2-inch-thick sheet of plywood or engineered wood. On the underside of that wood, I would glue a base of cork that goes across the entire back. Better still, use a product like Green Glue or a caulk/putty that dampens noise a little. So now you've got a platform base for your drum kit, and you'll turn it face down against your floor, with the cork facing the floor. On top of that base, you could add a layer of EVA or even a layer of anti-vibration gym flooring, which you can buy in interlocking pieces. And then, yes, if you have feet on your gear, and if the platform still isn't enough, you could put those rubber-cork (or rubber-EVA) pads under the feet. This should reduce a lot of the impact that might go into your neighbor's apartment. Sometimes just layering and varying the materials can help to reduce the transfer of sound into a building.

@@soundproofist thank you for such a thoughtful and detailed answer! I have researched and some say sandbag is a awesome material for shock absorbing. Do you think I should sandwhich sandbag-wood plate-gym foam? Or should I just stick to cork-wood plate-gym foam?

@@LongNguyen-xv2xu I've never heard of using sandbags before. That's really interesting. A couple of thoughts: 1) sandbags are heavy and 2) it might be challenging to keep the wood platform level on top of it. I also think the shock absorbency of sand might be related to making direct contact with the sand, not having a solid plank of wood on top of it.One anti-vibration material that might be really good underneath the wood platform is Sylomer. It's a type of foam made in sheets, with different density grades. In this case, it would be a flat surface, not a varied surface. Example: www.mecanocaucho.com/en-US/products/acoustic-hanger-mounts/sylomer-pad/

The "neighbors are not cooperative" aspect is one of the main reasons why the Soundproofist channel (and blog, and podcast) exist. Sometimes you're stuck in a situation with noisy and uncooperative neighbors but no authority to help you resolve what should be a simple fix. As for your situation, what's the cause of the vibrations, and do you *hear* impact noise or a humming noise, or just *feel* vibrations?

It can be very hard to identify the source. If the beat is continuous (24/7) it could be some mechanical equipment, and if it's intermittent, it could be someone playing music. Low-frequency noise really travels, and sometimes it's not even coming from inside your own building, but coming from somewhere else. I think I'll check out the Spectroid app (thanks for mentioning it).

No, never heard of them before. I just looked at their website. Have you used them?

@@soundproofist Yeah they're my favorite. I bounced around between etymonic and some off brand eargasm type stuff until I was recommended Eraser. I haven't gone back. Check them out if you get the chance. I'd love to see your comparison between them and the other brands you've got here.

Sadly, this is true in some instances. I think we live in an era of "entitlement," and in the past few years, I've found it less-common to get empathetic or considerate neighbors. We have laws on the books for noise and decibel levels, for "quiet enjoyment of the home." and so on, but no enforcement of them. And while it seems like the only solution is to pack up and move, it's not that easy. Housing is increasingly scarce and expensive, interest rates on mortgages are still much higher than three years ago, etc. I think the suggestions on Soundproofist are basically what you can try when / if you can't move.

Good question. I'll have to ask Al, because I did a web search and I can't find an exact match. I even screen-capped it from the video and did a reverse-image search. The anti-vibration mount that he's holding looks ideal. I can find items that are close to it on sites like this (scroll down to "vibration isolation" in this PDF): www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/support-systems/pipe-hangers/ph-20-catalog-sections/vibration-isolation-section-pipe-hanger-catalog.pdf

Thanks so much for the info. I really appreciate it. Do you know where I can buy anti-vibration pads to put under the legs of my bed? I went to Home Depot and an employee said they don't sell them. Would you happen to have any links so I can purchase them?

​@@soundproofistI would LOVE to know where to get those 3 layer black pads to put under the bed legs. The owner of my apartment building refuses to balance to blades on a ceiling fan below my bedroom and it makes my bed vibrate (only during certain hours, when the tenant uses the ceiling fan) . I've had this situation in another building (exact same sensation) that was fixed by repairing the ceiling fan below, so I know it's the same thing.

@@DN-se6kh I think the sandwich kind of pads might be OK for your purposes. The best place to buy them is from Supply House, and they have different sizes in both styles: with EVA in the center of the rubber, and with cork. I prefer the EVA. Here's the link: www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-VPE-400-E-V-A-Anti-Vibration-Pad-4-x-4-x-7-8?_br_psugg_q=anti+vibration+pads

@@astroice5987 I think you're referring to the sandwich-style pads with the rubber tread on top and bottom, and an EVA or cork center, like this: www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-VPE-400-E-V-A-Anti-Vibration-Pad-4-x-4-x-7-8?_br_psugg_q=anti+vibration+pads. BUT there are also some pads with a hole already drilled through the middle for mounting equipment. Like these, on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Medium-Vibration-Isolation-Compressor-Equipment/dp/B01N4GS6OK

This data sheet (see link) is from the Rockwool site, though there are other independent sites with STC estimates. Of course, results are contingent on the rest of the wall assembly, the type and frequency and proximity of the incoming noise, etc. www.rockwool.com/siteassets/o2-rockwool/documentation/technical-guides/commercial/acoustic-wall-assemblies-catalog-techincal-guide.pdf

I probably have more questions than answers. When you say "computer case," do you mean a desktop computer (versus a laptop)? How big is the case? My first thought is any kind of dampening might increase the heat inside the case. Maybe creating a larger box that with perforations/vents that fits over the computer could help reduce the noise, but again, you don't want to overheat your gear. You've probably seen this video, which is basically about using more technology to try to reduce it. (Or contact the manufacturer) ua-cam.com/video/jtXAuIJchps/v-deo.html

I know exactly how you feel, and often the downstairs neighbors simply don't believe you when you tell them that you hear their feet pounding. As if vibration and noise can only go in one direction (down), which is not true.

Who's Sarah Gilbert?

Actress

In my case, it doesn't affect what I actually hear in the living room, because my walls are thin and a lot of traffic noise comes through them. I've been procrastinating on setting up a frequency test (inserting a microphone between the plexiglass and the original window and connecting it to a noise meter), testing with and without the DIY absorbers, to see if it makes a measurable difference inside the window frame. Thanks for the reminder.

I think it's related to how many sound samples the app takes per second, but I could be wrong about that. I usually keep the setting at 1x, but for example, if you change it to 3x, you'll see more numerical readings flash by onto the screen within the same time period.

Thanks for asking. I think what you want is for your noise app (on your old phone) to send a notification (text, email, etc.) anytime a certain noise threashold gets hit. I looked through the settings on SmarterNoise Pro and couldn't find anything. There is a function on "Decibel Meter" called "polling" that offers this (www.ashiers.com/polling) but this app is iOS-only. I'll keep looking for an Android app that offers this feature. I don't know of one offhand.

@@soundproofist Thank you very much for your reply and for the effort you made to reply to my question. I really appreciate it!

All of those pathways can be a pipeline for sound to travel through. I think downstairs neighbors have a false sense of privacy and many people believe that sound can only travel in one direction (down). But if that were true, then you would never hear sounds like car noise from the street in your upstairs apartment...right? Do you suppose your neighbor's ceiling is hollow? That could be one contributor. Another is minimalism. People who live in sparsely furnished apartments with bare floors create an echo chamber, and that noise goes upwards. And finally, yes, ventilation pipes in the walls, or recessed lights, etc. are like broadcast systems between apartments, especially if they're not insulated.

You’re welcome!

You’re welcome!

Did you miss the two Soundproofist videos about Android decibel apps, specifically my recommended app, SmarterNoise Pro?

Shoot - I have blinds installed inside the window and I don’t know if I can take them out.

In terms of effectiveness (amount of sound blocked), they might be equivalent. However, there are some things you need to keep in mind if you make an actual window insert versus the overlay (the "Helpful Mike" version...which is super helpful). First think about your window coverings and if you have window frames, or just cut outs in the walls. If you have a frame around the window and it's not flush with the wall, you'll need inserts. But if you build an insert, you need to measure each corner precisely, preferably with a laser tool. No window is perfectly rectangular and the dimensions could be off just enough in one corner to make it not fit right. That's what happened to me on my first window. You want the plexiglass sheet to be smaller on all four sides, and held snugly in place with a flexible rubber or silicone gasket. But then you also need to think about "how do I get it out?" because you might want to open the window. So, will you put handles on the plexiglass or build a frame around it, with handles? If so, will that compromise the plexiglass at all? Also, if your window is large enough to need more than one panel across your window you don't want to piece these together on the inside of the window frame. It's much easier on the exterior, as I did for my large window.

@@soundproofist Hi there, I apologize for the delayed response. Thanks so much, I think I might do the overlay because I’m worried I’ll mess up the measurements for an insert. It’s good to know they seem to have similar effects. I was worried that there would need to be an air pocket with the acrylic closer to the window, but I don’t know how that works to be honest. To confirm, a frame would be like a wooden frame around the window? I’m sorry if that’s a dumb question. My window just sits inside the bare wall with metal around the glass and a window sill at the bottom. It’s 47” high x 46.5” wide and I found a place with 48” x 48” pieces of acrylic. That should be ok right? I think I read that you recommended 1-1.5” extra room for each side (apologies if I got that wrong). Lastly, would going thicker than 1/4” be inadvisable? I’m hoping to block a lot of sound since I have bad hyperacusis but I don’t want to mess with things since I’m very much new to it. Thanks again SO much, I will definitely look through your other suggestions as well - they seem great!

@@SsssAt I don’t think there is any harm in going thicker than 1/4 inch. Of course it will be heavier. In general, you want something soft between the plexiglass and the wall, or the inside of the window frame, to stop the direct transmission of vibration from one hard surface to another. Since I don’t know how to attach handles to a window insert without destroying it or reducing its effectiveness, I need to research how to build one with plexiglass (it’s easier with wood, etc). A window that’s 47 inches high with 48 inch plexiglass should have just enough clearance with the plexiglass on the windowsill. A little more would have been great, but if the opening doesn’t exceed 47 inches, it should work. On the sides, you’ll actually have a little less wiggle room, maybe 3/4 inch on each side. It’s tight, but with a 1/2 inch strip of thin foam on either side and firmly held against the wall with mirror clamps or something, you’ll just squeak through.

@@soundproofist Thanks so much. I ended up getting a 1/4 x 50 x 50 sheet that came in today. I’m a bit worried about the extra weight/size, but should it be ok as far as staying on the wall? I was hesitant to try doing it in two sheets. I also have a weird question - I’m leaning the sheet against a wall due to lack of space in my house. It has a slight bend from sitting against the wall. Will this warp/bend the material permanently? I need to clear space to lie it down but I was concerned I would bend the sheet and that it wouldn’t be flush when it came time to install. Apologies for all the questions and thanks again for your help.

That's great to hear! Thanks for the info!

It's an audio narration (voice over) track that I added after capturing the video. So the readings on the decibel meter are from the car or truck driving by, not from my voice. In a more-recent video, I measured leaf blower noise at different windows (open and closed) and determined that the extra sheet of plexiglass decreases the decibel level by about 4 decibels.

@@soundproofist You're missing the point. Most people aren't interested in decibel decibel values, it has no meaning to most people, and that app is just a joke, it's not any way accurate, and I talk from experience with it. To measure decibels you need a hardware device that is specifically made for that purpose. Having said that, what matters most for us viewers is the sound we're hearing, yet you decided to place your voice partly on top of the sound that the cars generate, which is not a very bright move.

About your first question -- I haven't calibrated any of my decibel meters -- I just use the default. I'm also the kind of person who never calibrated the "white" balance in photo apps, either. I should really look into this for use cases and how / why to do it. About the external microphone -- yes, you can plug one in via the USB or lightning port on your phone. If you're not sure if it's working, test it by running a voice recording app first, and then tap on the microphone or blow on it to be sure that your device is using the external mic and not the buit-in one. If you use a corded lavalier, that's a pretty good option. Most lavaliers are sensitive and pick up omnidirectional sound, which is what you need. I've been meaning to try this for a video, where I place the lavalier inside my window between the plexiglass insert and the original window to measure the decibels inside the gap versus what I hear in my home. Also, it's possible that the external mic will pick up more sounds minus any noise-cancellation that might be built into your phone..

@@soundproofist Thank you for the response! Yes, the mic works -- I just didn't know whether the app would use it.

@@soundproofist Just a follow up. My downstairs neighbor blasts his games and music and I can hear the "woo woo woo...." clearly in my apartment day and night, but getting a legible recording was nearly impossible. I bought a couple of sound meters, but they too couldn't pick up the actual levels. Then I got the brilliant idea (from this video) of getting a sound meter app for my smartphone, connecting a microphone, and then connecting the microphone to a stethoscope on the floor. The logic here (which I got from your interview with the sound expert) is if the noise is airborne downstairs, it becomes structural as it moves through the ceiling/floor, and then airborne again in my apartment. Using the stethoscope should pick up both the actual sound and actual noise level coming through the floor. And it does. The noise is regularly around 50 dba. Who knows if the city will act -- but this at least gives me more than just my opinion that the noise coming from downstairs is too loud. Thank you for your work on these videos. As you can see, they are making a difference!

@@SwingingInTheHood I responded to one of your other comments by recommending that you use an inexpensive lavalier microphone. If you've got an Android, you can find some inexpensive lavaliers on Amazon that connect to an Android via the USB-C port. Put the lavalier mic as close to the noise source or the noise path as possible. Some lavaliers have a pretty long cable on them, so you don't have to put the device itself on the ceiling, for example. Try the mic with and without the stethoscope -- the results might still be good without the stethoscope, but I've never tried it! This app (SmarterNoise Pro) is ideal, because it will give you the numeric data in decibels and it will capture audio with the file, depending on your settings. So you'll have the whole package: the decibel data and the audio evidence. And I'm glad these videos are making a difference! It's a niche topic that you don't realize you need to learn about until you get stuck in a situation like the one you're in now.