Відео

The blue spring is referred to with the fuel bowl housing to maintain better fuel pressure. This was green spring was part of the kit I got.

I'll see what I can do...

Thanks, ran great all season.

After everything is together, with the oil filter cap and oil filter out it should only take a few seconds, maybe 30 secs to get the oil to start filling the reservoir. Your best option is find a local diesel shop and get the truck towed there since you don't have additional shop tools and large battery charger to keep the batteries charged, you'll eventually kill the batteries trying to crank the truck over. Also while cranking you could pull the I believe grey ficm relay or use the starter jumper wire so the injectors are not firing while trying to start the truck.

I do have a lot of the essential tools for this truck. I've accumulated the right configuration over the past 8 years of traveling... Yes, where I'm lacking is the battery power... and being frozen mentally and stressed through the roof. Over the years I've done my fair share of parking lot miracles (mainly injectors, seals, exhaust leaks, boost leaks, hpop system...) I just keep hoping that if I go out and try and lift the rear of the truck and or find a way to pime the pump that I could get it started.... I'm confused on if there's a specific hole in the oil filter housing that I could put some oil down that would reach the loop, or is there a way to put a hose somewhere to suck oil up through the loop...

@@jmeister87 There is a drain back valve in the housing, however it drains back to the pan far as I know. Have you posted in some of the 6.0 facebook groups?

​@@crazypeople4x4I just disconnected the 5th wheel and chest pressed, single leg pressed the truck away from the trailer... Then I jacked the rear end way off the ground (it fell once, but maybe it's a sign to take the easy way out..jk kinda) So I figured this would give the best chance of getting oil to the loop, I held the relief valve down but even without that it should show some signs of filling... However mine did not, I got the truck charging via solar and car, so I was able to do some pretty good sessions of cranking (with the starter wire), then I took the oil filter pipe off and put oil in there while cranking, nothing changed... So then I removed the (new) low pressure regulator to see if there was any signs of oil building up in there, there wasn't anything leaking out, so I cranked with that out, nothing out of that hole either... I have been in contact with a real knowledgeable Ford tech, I talked to him prior to removing my oil pan, new lpop and latest testing. I'm going to call him in a minute to see what he thinks now... I think I will be replace the front cover if it's just that there damage enough to cause this still... Let the nightmare continue I guess...

😂 yep, been that way for years and never bothered to change it.

​@@crazypeople4x4 i only know cus i just bought one n assembled it 3 days ago i bought the same heater i ordered it from home depot the dyno glow PRO 135,000 its black and orange and they sent me the wrong one they sent me the dyno glow proffesional 95-135,000 its grey only difference i can see other than the color being grey not black n orange is it has a hi n low switch so u can turn it from 95,000 to 135,000 and its 30 dollars more than the one i actually ordered but to me the hi low switch is just one more thing to go wrong i would of rather just got the one i ordered the staight 135,000 cus im just gonna run it on full blast hot in my garage anyway.

Long story short... truck quit running, I had an injector snap ring go through the lpop which feed to the hpop and took it out also, so I had to replace both.

Runs good again, till something else happens 😅.

I mean it wasn't shiny and perfect, but didn't look bad enough to need replaced or enough to affect performance of the pump.

I’m going through a similar situation My Low Pressure Oil Pump has tiny dots not like lifter needles just bumps. The front cover has some light scuff marks but not horrible Everyone is saying to replace the front cover but I’m a bit hesitant

Did your front cover have a gouges or light marring ? I’m debating on replacing my front cover or just roll like you with just the LPoP first ?

​@@jasonab6722if it looks ok. I'd send it. It's a lot of work to replace.

👏😉

Try to test fit each piece individually to make sure the gear will go on the crank then the outer half to see if it slides in. Can be a pain cause it's a perfect fit. It's a solid piece of metal, so if it needs a tape from a rubber mallet, won't hurt.

Best guess is it was something besides a cam needle bearing. If i did it would be a stage one cam, but I'm just gonna send it at this point honestly.

Agree. It was an injector snap ring that the lpop feed to the hpop. Got 7 years out of that pump before this happened . ua-cam.com/video/cxq6nzE-YAc/v-deo.htmlsi=5ybWD01hTI8nnIq6

No idea, haven't had to do a truck tire yet. But id guess good 5-10 minutes.

I filled up a 30inch Mud Tire today from 14psi to 32psi and it took about 3 mins. Not bad!

So far I have a 3-4k miles on it and no issues. I will be ordering the tool to check and clean the filter and will make a video while im figuring it out , haha. Correct for some reason I don't have the heater valve, was like that when I got the truck and hasn't been an issue.

@@crazypeople4x4 good deal man ima set mine Up kinda like yours hopefully i didn’t do all this work to just have to take the intake back off for a oil cooler lol hope this 4hr of back flushing will get me by for a while lol

@@mikes.4811 That I dont know, hopefully the manual is easier.

@@crazypeople4x4 Guess I'll find out. lol Thanks! :)

@@mikes.4811 Let me know if you had issues! I have a 05 GT, thinking the same thing with it being easier, but not 100% sure.

only 1 back flush in so far ..my block just terible

@@KERNFUZED not sure. I haven't bought the tool, yet Only 3k miles with so far. When I do the next oil change I'm gonna check it out and make a vid of the filter process.

@@crazypeople4x4 ya crazy I unscrewed the Knurled..filter put it in vise thinkin put tool with finers in there idl tryed to turn the inside nothing doesnt even seem like toool fits the filter thing i cant get it open!

Agreed, on my list to buy.

So far no issues, no leaks. I'll pull it apart when I do my next oil change. Flows fine, no temp issues towing. The sinister kit works well for its bypass design.

Your welcome. That was the issue I found and figured I'd make one for driver side.

Had no idea that sensor existed. I'll keep it in mind for the next time.

Thanks, any build I do, when the heads come off they get sent to a machine shop.

Running parked or sitting at a light, it would act like it was going to stall. However ran perfect cruising down the highway. Put a scanner on it and the desired vs actual was jumping all over the place. Replaced with OEM and back to normal.

Hey did it misfire hella an white smoke a tad while misfiring having this same issue an bout to replace this weekend

@@hiltonlandingham ya you think it's about to die sitting at a light, haha. Didn't have any white smoke though that I noticed. Can't rule out an injector going bad also as an option.

My y bridge is welded on is your????

@@hiltonlandingham there are 2 bolts and 2 studs with nuts on the front easy to see and back hard to see especially the back bottom ones

I'm pretty new to red dots also and based on a few videos I've seen, I adjusted the red dot elevation and windage to align with the laser pointer on the target. So far it seems to be pretty good last time I was at the range. Borrowed it to my buddy and he said after he used it to zero, he had to make additional adjustments while at the range to get a grouping he liked based on the way he shoots. With that said, I'd make the adjustments then go to the range and see if you need to tweak it from there.

​@@crazypeople4x4Thanks. Just did that, aligned the dot to the laser at 15 yrd and will take it to the range to do some shooting. Thanks man!!

Yes, however the 6.7 will draw a bit more amps to get the job done. The 6.7 was in stock and much cheaper than the others was why I did it. Could honestly get away with no sleeve between the other factory holes and clamping force, not gonna move. But the cold starts are definitely smoother.

Appreciate the input. I've seen videos of them both ways, but that make more sense and considered it.

Haha yeah, I almost never let it get below a 1/4.

It's pretty stable. My garage floor is far from perfect and level but overall feel safe when under the car.

Dunno man, most starters are only two bolts.

All the bolts do is hold the starter in place. The force that the starter can exert on the bolts is in rotation which means that if the clamping force of the bolts doesn't hold the starter in place the starter is trying to cut the bolts off, it is called shear, at the place where the starter meets the bell housing. If your starter has the power to cut steel bolts off with an aluminum housing then maybe your starter is too big. It doesn't take much clamping force to hold the starter in place.

I’m aware of shear force, I just don’t appreciate stuff that isn’t overbuilt

@@steventrojanowski3595 Then why are you watching a vid on the Ford 6.0L engine one of the most over engineered under built diesels that was ever sold. 4 Bolts not studs per cylinder, oil and egr coolers that can plug and fail, IPR valve that can plug and fail simply from a bad designed screen and the list goes one. Look at 14L diesel over the road engines and tell me how many bolts those starters have. You just do not know what you are talking about when you are

talking about over built. Besides "over built" just means extra weight for no gain in most cases. You should be looking for items that are repairable not over built. When was the last time you saw an alternator for example that was fully repairable at home with a rebuild kit?

Thanks. Home Depot is/was running a deal on Ryobi by a 2pack battery get a tool free.