Відео

I did not

I didn't remove the egr valve for this job. I removed only the egr cooler to have access to the transmission bolt. However, removing the egr valve is straightforward. As far as I remember, there are 3 bolts, two of them are easy. The top one is a bit covered by the coolant pipes, but it is possible to move them just a bit to have enough space for the socket. I think I used 3/4 wrench with some extensions.

Hi, what pipe do you mean?

I see what you mean. As far as I remember, there are 3 bolts, two of them are easy. The top one is a bit covered by the coolant pipes, but it is possible to move them just a bit to have enough space for the socket. I think I used 3/4 wrench with some extensions.

@@ShadetreeRoadsideRepairs great thank you for info 👍waiting more videos from you on mazda

No, for clutch job it doesn't make sense definitely. The timing chain on this engine is doable w/o unmounting it. But yeah, not very hard to pull out the engine having all that disassembled :)

Great video thank you 🙏

Perfect video thank you…pls more videos on engine for mazda

Thank you! I haven't tried gasoline, but I think it will work. It is likely not as effective as acetone or xylene, though. I really like xylene - it smells not that bad as acetone and is very effective, especially if you soak in it for several hours.

There is no adjustment mechanism in this caliper. And I think most of such calipers don't have a way to adjust it from the caliper end. The handle (lever) on the caliper rotates for 20-30 (perhaps) degrees for max engagement, and it moves the brake pads for just several millimeters. I haven't measured those distances, but you can see them in the video. So, the only way is to tighten the cable, as you did. In your case it seems to me that either handbrake cables are stretched out, or the guide pins are stuck, or the caliper piston doesn't move easily (rust), or (the worst case) the handbrake mechanism requires maintenance. I would visually inspect the caliper and try to move the handbrake handle on it to evaluate how it feels / moves. You should be able to move it for several degrees, and you should see how the piston goes out for several mm. And it should be relatively easy to do. Be careful, and don't pull out the piston completely :)

I'm in the middle of another Mazda 6 job now - clutch, flywheel, front suspension, etc. There will be videos. Among the other things, I pulled the subframe again and replaced again only front row bushings. I checked the second and third row, and they were okay, not perfect, but would work for another 30-50k for sure. The reason why I decided not to replace them was because I already replaced the front row before. It was Febest, and after 30k km, both bushings were very bad. The third row is hard indeed. There are kinda covers on top of the bushings, and they are welded there (seems like), or clamped. The middle ones looked similar to the front row. Seems Febest is the only after market, but quality is very average (bad). I would recommend to replace only in case if the original ones are really bad.

2011

I have been driving since then, and I overheated them a bit when it was hot outside. Now I have small vibration when I brake after 80km/h. The vibration increases as the rotors heat up. So I believe it's easier to overheat them in comparison to usual rotors. I don't think I feel significant brake performance with them, it is comparable to usual rotors as well. Perhaps, brakes are a bit sharper now, but it's not so significant. My personal opinion is that better to buy good usual rotors since they are cheaper and likely less prone to overheating.

@@ShadetreeRoadsideRepairs thanks mate

It is not a problem. I believe it is acceptable blow-by for the engine with 215k km milage. Why do you want to fix it?

@@ShadetreeRoadsideRepairs is oil everywhere. I think my turbo is worn. Can the Turbo make crankcase pressure?

I haven't seen it in real life, but I believe it can if the seals are worn out, so some exhaust gas can potentially enter the oil lines and increase the pressure. What exactly leaks?

@@ShadetreeRoadsideRepairs from crankcase breather to the turbo is oil everywhere.

If you have the same blow-by like in the video, I highly doubt the oil comes from the breather. I bet it comes perhaps from the cold part of the turbo, according to your description. In this case, the turbo cold part would be all oily. I would suggest to check radial, axial play of the turbo shaft just by hand. There should be 0 axial play, some radial is acceptable. Does it whistle a lot? Blue smoke? I'm not an expert, but by checking its play you can say a lot. If you need some reference, I have a video on my channel about the crankcase breather. There is my turbo and its play, and I consider it's okay. If no severe play, no blue smoke, no significant oil consumption, I would then replace the seal when the intake pipe connects to the turbo, clean everything, and spy on it more.

I believe it's worth to try it. However, if you have swirl flaps, I wouldn't install the vortex filter. Have you replaced intercooler seals? They can leak even if the turbo / breather are good, there is always some small amount of oil in the intake (like one little spoon). There is a chance that you have old oil in the intercooler. If that's the case, it's worth to unmount it and clean. I would clean the intercooler, replace the seal of the pipe to the intake manifold, and run the car without the charge pipe to the intercooler to see how much oil turbo throws on, say, 2k rpm. It's enough to just start the car for 1 min, rev it to 2k for like 15-20 seconds. You can put a bag on the turbo output pipe to catch the oil.

How much oil it consumes for 5k or 10k km?

​@@ShadetreeRoadsideRepairs consumes about half a litre on 1200ish kilometers, i added the breather as I had a new one that I never fitted ( case was empty from factory) and I will see if it helps at all. I dont have swirl flaps as my car is a 325d and they dont have those.

I doubt the breather would help then, it sounds like a more severe issue. Even without any filters there, it won't be even near 500ml/1200km. Since you said you saw the oil leak at the output intercooler pipe, I would check the turbo again. Evaluate its play and check the amount of oil in its housing, even if it was rebuilt. Off top of my head, if it's turbo, perhaps sometimes you can see blue smoke, e.g., you stop for a couple of minutes, and then foot to the floor, and you might see some blue smoke. Other ideas, I had similar consumption when I had the crankshaft seal leaking, but it was visible. If it's not turbo, no visible leak anywhere, and the breather you installed doesn't help at all, then it's smth even more severe. Could be worn out rings, blown head gasket, or valve guides. I would check the amount of blow-by gas from the brearher and perhaps check the compression.

Put thicker oil, if you are using 5w30 put 5w40 ​@@lemeister3032

Nothing is wrong with it

I'm not sure if there is a part number of that bushing. I think it's a part of the knuckle, so only aftermarket options are available. You can try to find them by the rear knuckle part number. In my case, it is GS1D-26-11XC (Mazda 6 GH 2011). I was able to find only Febest MZAB-114 bushing by the part number and some other local brands that are essentially the same, and this was what I installed that time. So far, so good.

This is crankase ventilation / breather. That pipe is a part of the valve cover and is connected to the intake pipe before the turbocharger.

Hi, there was no real issue. Before cleaning the intake manifold, I cleaned the EGR. It saved me 0.5-1L/100km fuel. I was surprised and decided to clean the intake manifold, too. It actually didn't affect fuel consumption. However, my boost pressure (calculated) increased up to 1.46 bar max (it was around 1.35 bar max before). I think either intake manifold gasket leaked or MAP sensor hose cleaning helped. So, I did it mostly for fun and possible profit. Usually, there are no significant issues if your intake manifold is not clean, just performance / efficiency hit.

Thank you! I'm uploading the Part 2 today. How did everything go?

I bought the pinion with the sensor together. AFAIK, there is either no separate steering sensor for sale or only some low quality brands. I recommend to buy the pinion together with the sensor (original).

I would not go this way. Electric rack is pretty reliable, and not so hard in terms of maintenance. I doubt a steering rack from previous gen GG fits here w/o adjustments. Hydraulic pump installation would be tricky: where, instead of A/C compressor? Also, there is a steering control module, so w/o connection to the rack you would see errors.