Відео

Get control er freaks

Unfortunately not. You could buy a defective one and take spare parts from it

@@scrafinitox4445 I found few in my country and all of them have the same issue.

Same problem here, RB button press twice sometimes. I try with contact cleaner later today.

@@nTho142 You have to buy a new microswitch like I did.

​@@nTho142you find any solution?

It’s standard usb cable, in other words, red, white, green, black and this one has another black, one is slightly thicker than the other, that one goes in the end, but it’s also a ground wire

Me too dude, but i think that switch its very big compared to the others.. so idk, its different that switch kailh GM 8.0 but if you know what is the exactly type tell me please..

@@Lucky-he4pn The correct switch is kailh SMD mini switch for logitech m905, g903, g900, g603, g503

idk, dirt? open and clean

Hall effect ones

nope, try a dark power 12 1000 watt i have the same and use with my rtx 3080 GS Phoenix

@@scrafinitox4445 i ended up getting a rog strix 1000w . but i returned it both ima get a 4070 ti , its less power hungry a 850w will do it i just need to find one with the native 12 oin connector atx 3.0

mega.nz/folder/tcRjGI5K#nctiWd89gagNMd9NE2HTRQ puedes usar con Live Wallpaper www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9MV8GK87MZ05 es facil

no

Yes with a 3d printer you could .

you should be able to if you don't have the chroma version

1. devolución de la garantía. 2. Abra el controlador por completo y vea si todo está bien. 3. al principio del cable, retire el cable pequeño y vea si todos los clavos están rectos con el cabezal del enchufe.... google translator

yes

The stick drift is horrible bro i got the same thing

if you have the chroma version the thumbsticks are not removable

@@jeremywood4048 ua-cam.com/video/RPfCZhvj1Ng/v-deo.html

​@@jeremywood4048 They actually ARE removable, but the thumb stick caps are designed in a way to tightly grip the sticks they're on. It takes some persistent force, but I've managed to remove them before to use for my Wolverine Ultimate. I used some paper towels to place between my fingers and the sides of the thumbsticks so that I didn't dig into my fingers as much with the prolonged pulling, I also made sure to use my other hand's fingers to hold the board in place while I pull, as the board WILL flex and possibly break without proper support. Just make sure you don't pull TOO hard or you COULD risk breaking the thumbstick module itself entirely. I like the Wolverine v2's thumbsticks more than the Wolverine Ultimate's thumbsticks, as the rubber seems to last longer and is far more grippy (Ultimate's thumbstick rubber feels quite slippery in comparison). However, I like the Ultimate's classic-like X-Box shell and clicky face buttons WAY more than the v2's fat shell rubber membrane + clicky hybrid face buttons (if I wanted the rubber membrane squishiness, I'd rather just use a standard controller and forgo the clickiness, so i really don't understand why Razer did this). This is what let to me to being ambitious enough to void my v2 Chroma's warranty, go through the pain of disassembling it, pulling the thumsticks out, and putting them on my Wolverine Ultimate. Was really worried I might break my v2 Chroma and have unusable thumbsticks, but the buggers are surprisingly resilient. Been using the v2's thumsticks on my Ultimate controller ever since. (Worth noting that this does NOT fix stick drift in any form, though. See below.) That all being said, I still advise caution, even to the point of strongly discouraging it unless you're like me and just desperately want to "transplant" those grippy thumsticks to another Razer controller (the thumbstick base is too fat and will greatly limit you're range of movement if you try to put them on standard controllers). Stick drift has nothing to do with the thumbsticks themselves, but rather the thumbstick module that the base of the thumbstick caps sit on. That's just the pesky nature of using potentiometer thumbstick modules. See this video to from iFixit, who better explains why potentiometer thumbsticks are so notorious for stick drift in the first place (ua-cam.com/video/JluAuIJ-tSY/v-deo.html). Generally speaking, "fixing" stick drift on current controllers on a hardware level is just not a realistic option unless you're a tech guru that not only knows the ins and outs of the inner workings of controller, but also have countless other controller you can strip for parts and/or test on, as the carbon plate that wears out and causes stick drift can't be readily obtained brand-new on their own (I've only semi-recently got into tinkering with controller internals, so I'm not yet at that level to try such a thing comfortably). The best you can do without shelling out money to buy a new controller is to use your console/PC's calibration settings to to recalibrate the thumbsticks and adjust deadzones to better account for the drift, but said calibration settings will only apply that specific console/PC. Some custom controller companies also have software for their controllers that allow for recalibration as well, but to my knowledge, Razer is not one of them (it DOES have deadzone adjustment, however). You COULD also buy special "stick Drix fix" kits that have you solder on special boards under the thumbstick modules that can be used to eliminate stick drift on a hardware level, but even this still dances around the primary cause (plus, I mean.... it DOES require soldering knowledge, so there's that). All of this is really just a temporary fix that delays the inevitable death of the potentiometer joystick, but you can at least squeeze what life you can out of these pro controllers to hold off buying a new one for as long as you can.

@@Wes1234668 Great to know!! i’ve been trying but hadn’t been able to get it, I love the original elite controller tall dome sticks but the razer buttons are too nice to give up, I agree the sticks are so wide that it limits the range of movement, so knowing they come off is great!! thanks for the reply! are you enjoying it better with the other sticks? luckily I don’t have issues with drift and I know how to solder so if I need to swap the module I can

buy a replacement button

@@scrafinitox4445 That was a brand new controller from razer yesterday so what do i do

@@piercehorton where you bought it, write to them. have warranty on it

can spray some wd 40

My wife's controller had the same problem with her A and X buttons. I took the controller apart and put some lube on the buttons. Works great now. Also, while trying to take out one of the first screws, I accidentally stripped the screw. I had to get my drill and carefully drill out the plastic around the screw. Controller still works well, so it seems missing one screw is okay.

were you able to fix the Y button problem? I have the same issue but don’t know if i have to take my controller apart.

@@hesi8083 You could try just squirting lubrication into your Y button, but I'd recommend a water or silicone based lubricant. It won't hurt rubber or plastic that way. WD-40 would definitely work at first, but it might gum it up after a while. If it doesn't work, you can try taking it apart. Just be careful to not strip the screws. You'll have to push the screwdriver in really hard and turn slowly.

@@hesi8083 Or, contact razer and see if they'll send you a replacement for free. You might not even need a warranty. Always worth a try.

simply reconnect with a terminal clip

mega.nz/folder/tcRjGI5K#nctiWd89gagNMd9NE2HTRQ you can use it with Live Wallpaper www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9MV8GK87MZ05 for example

mega.nz/folder/tcRjGI5K#nctiWd89gagNMd9NE2HTRQ

you can use it with Live Wallpaper www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9MV8GK87MZ05 for example

The screws can be stripped, so be careful. Especially on the last 3, they're in the circuit board. I stripped one of the first screws, but luckily it was in plastic so all I had to do was carefully drill out the plastic around the screw. Still works fine with a missing screw.