Відео

You could just go to Rustival in the Mondeo, Festival of the Unexceptional would be the perfect show for it I saw a couple of MkI’s this year & four or five MkII’s. Leave the Chevette for more local shows. Dad got himself a MkII Granada this year & we just use that for local journeys & shows but it can drive long distance.

The chevette is MoT & road tax exempt, it will also be ULEZ free if you ever venture to a big city. Keeping it is a no brainer as it will also get classic insurance. The Tourneo camper has all your effort converting it & has proven itself to be useful all round so it’s logical to keep it & get rid of the Mondeo. That said I prefer the Mondeo & you’d struggle to find another decent MkI today. Objectively the Mondeo goes, but if it’s financially viable (& space permitting) keep all three as you may regret selling one it later on.

Ideal world keep both . But if it was me personally I’d keep the stunning mk1 mondeo . Rare / very clean / reliable / going up in value / can put on classic car insurance . Can always get another transit the buggers are everywhere and are dirt cheap mondeo Mk1s are disappearing. Keep it clean and maintained . You’d be mad to lose it .

Love the mondeo, id keep that regardless of fuel mpg. You dont see many of them these days, especially in white. Lovely looking car 😊

Are Chris's wished I was there tgat looks like a realy nice ride lovely view s and nice train xxx

Always a great video, k&n Induction kit, stainless steel scorpion exhaust, remap from Nathan at dash solutions and nip down to the ford fair in August for some toys.

Plenty to do then with oddy I like the Arlo I've only got a motorbike myself at the minute only a Chinese 125 2014 but was a cheap copy of a honda cg but im on cbt on car licence its cheap to run till i get another car but I like cars now more then 2005 or older as only thing i cant fix is the electrics the technology side not good with old school my nvq was the 90s lol

Looks like a nice tidy motor 👍

Good purchase looks tidy. Whites not my fav colour but I do like a mondie and any of them left with arches are always a welcome addition. Cheers Cortina Mac.

That Mondeo is ace! I had 2 back in the day although diesel hatch. Like that.

Very nice indeed, a rare beast now.

Good old Mondeo very tidy for a MK1 it's been looked after it got to be 2g at least if not more would have to have alloys easy to fix and maintain and low mileage you can make a one old caravan to put oddy on

The video's 4 weeks old now but I've only just seen it, YT sent me here and reading the comments below you've already installed a new alternator, which was probably the best move. Okay, so you tested the diodes and they were okay. The brushes still had plenty of meat so that's okay. Did you test the armature (the part that spins) windings and their connection to the slip rings ? Did you check the stator windings (the windings around the body) ? Assuming all that's okay, then its the regulator module. For a simple test of the regulator module just hook battery voltage to the input and earth of the regulator module. The output voltage at the brushes should be 10 volts or very very close to it. Now not trying to be a smart arse here but since you said you're not an auto electrician, I'll give you a friendly quicky on how it works. Battery voltage goes into the regulator which drops the voltage to 10 volts and holds it steady at 10 volts regardless of engine speed or load, that's why they call it a regulator. The DC field in the armature creatures an AC voltage and current in the stator windings then the diodes rectify the AC to DC. The process of rectifications multiplies the AC voltage by 1.414. That's why the regulator has to drop the input battery voltage to 10 volts. 10 volts at the brushes x 1.414 = 14.1 volts output to the battery. Now regulators vary slightly in their output voltage to the slip rings, they could be as low as 9.8 volts or as high as 10.3. Either way, multiply the regulator output voltage at the brushes by 1.414. The voltage at the output terminal to the battery should not be higher that 14.8 volts absolute maximum. The output voltage to the battery will always be in direct proportion to the regulator output voltage. So if your regulator voltage is outside of 9.8 - 10.3, it's faulty. Too low of a voltage won't charge, too high of a voltage could fry the battery and or other electrical systems in the car. Anyway, like I said, not trying to be a smart arse, just offering some friendly help either for yourself or anyone else who reads it. Cheers.

Original alternator on these was always a bit marginal on output

I had two Chevettes in the early 1980s. They were no better or worse than many other cars of the era, but definitely nowhere near as good as the next generation (e.g.. the Astra, etc.). Keep the coolant topped up with colourful antifreeze, so you can see when the water pump leaks (streaks along the engine, and a misfire). Mine had the misfire, but it was only when I renewed the antifreeze that I saw the streaks... The thermostat sticking open was another regular occurrence, evidenced by the engine taking ages to get to temperature. Another time, the bolts holding the starter motor became slightly loose, preventing it engaging properly. What else... rusty exhausts, in the pre-catalytic converter days, when they typically lasted eighteen months and the likes of Kwik Fit had hundreds in racks at every branch. One time, I changed the oil and found several timing chain teeth in the old oil. I checked the sprockets, and took a chance to drive ten miles to buy replacements, which I fitted on my return. Another feature was the bathtub tappet adjustment, done with the engine running. I recall fitting aftermarket bathtubs, but they cracked soon after, so I bought genuine ones. Fuel consumption was about 30mpg. I had the sills replaced (due to rust) in 1984 or thereabouts. This was all on a 1978 model. Comparing this to my current car: a 2016 Hyundai i30 with 122000 miles on the clock, 46mpg and it's never missed a beat, the Chevette was actually _awful,_ but I still remember it with fondness. after the 1978 one, I had a 1981 _automatic,_ which wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding!

You still got plenty to still to do on oddy then the weather will be hopefully getting better soon

Hi.......if you fit a new battery then the alternator doesnt have to do any work !!! . If it,s a Bosch alternator .......... they had external voltage regulators on them .....(just a box on 2 screws at the rear of the alternator) . The brushes used to wear down 😞 . Yeh ......... just take the reg out,,,,,,, run some 1,200 wet and dry over the 2 copper ummm channels as you rotate the alternator by hand . Just fit a new voltage regulator ... if the spring loaded brushes are worn (they were like carbon squares) and your off to go 🙂 . If it is a Bosches.... the only time they ever failed was if the two copper tracks "merged" and the carbon brushes jumped across . But ???????................ i know the Chevette is a Vauxhall Viva ........ so may have a Lucas alternator ????? . In 1984 ...... GM had "broken" the market with their Nova to Cavalier cars that were world beating with the "J-type" engine ............... (the mechanics could do a head gasket at twice the time of making a Subway sandwich) . The little Chevette stayed in the showroom for around £4,500 🙂...... where it stayed a 60's car 🙂 . I remember on just pulling off ...... the body's used to rock by raising on the drivers side . (i was young then ...... now i,m old and miserable) lol . Good luck my friend . (those Astra 1.8 GTE's .......Mk1....... 130mph jobs......... head gasket..... clutch.....full service.....30 mins) (best engineered cars in Europe) . GOOD LUCK ........ hope ive helped ......... yeh the new battery will override the alternator i think as it should jump to 13.8 volts from about 11.8 volts)

Well done

👍

Great when you can put headlights on in the dark again and not worry about killing the ignition 👍😂😊

Looking good inside and out now and sounds great with the cherry bomb this is why I've got to get a 80s or 90s car again easy to work on shame you didn't get to rustival car show i would have to put a rev counter in with your custom centre heater box mate 👍

Fantastic. A shame it ruined your chance of going to Rustival. Oddy sounds great now. Where did you find the roof rack? I am trying to get one for the Cortina.

Always something with old cars

Clwyd auto electrical, penyffordd/hope. Is the best for starter /alternator repair mate 😉

So glad to see you Saved this chevette! "Good cars" i had a hatchback back in early 90s..😊👍

I've changed the brushes, regulator and diode packs on those alternators loads of times. Easy to do. You will need a decent soldering iron.

Oh no. That really sucks. Hopefully will get to meet you both at another show sometime.

Wat a shame after all the hard work you did to try and get there mate

I had a two tone green special edition really nice looking.

Oh damn shame mate ;-/

Aww mate shame, was looking forward to seeing the shovitt 😢 and you too.

Bad luck dude

Ffs stop hitting it with the hammer.nervous tapping .

Good luck with the project. My first car was a 1979 Chevette. Two door in poverty-spec Ember red with vinyl seats.

Looks like new

I have to take the rear screen out of Agatha as I’ve got some crust in the bottom right, but rubbers aren’t available and the last thing I want is more welding…. Mmmm. Hopefully see you Saturday 👍

That Cat's watching you mate 🤣 Well done getting the glass in 👌

Looks good to me was worth doing the welding your self as you saved your self money car is looking a lot better 👍

I have found using 0.9mm core wire to blow less holes & fill any gaps when butt welding thin sheet.

Might see you at Rustival, hope your chevette makes it. Rare sight nowadays. I'm going in my Ulysse so if you see one its probably me.

Later chevettes used a much better Bosch distributor. Those delco dizzys would generally be worn by around 50k and would cause running issues. The trick was to close the points gap and reset the timing. Also the wire from the coil used to break inside the insulation. I had a lot of dealings with those engines back in the day. They were no ball of fire but as long as the oil was changed every 6k and the valve clearance was set properly they could pass the 100k mark with little drama. Its also worth keeping a close eye on the rubber pipe that goes into the carb. Its right above the hot exhaust manifold.....

We had a four door chevette L saloon. Took all sorts of abuse but kept going. Had an amazing heater. Could almost fry eggs with it!

Hi Christian, i suspect a sticky valve there, you may see it when you check the clearances. Cheers

Hi Mate, if you have one then use the shroud, it will prevent the gun sticking to the car, welding with gas is easier and produces a much cleaner weld, i used flux cored on many occasions but very rarely now. Brave man taking on a Chevette ! Love them though, was my first car. Good luck pal.

Thanks for the advice Peter...as the old saying goes...practice makes perfect...I will keep having a go on some spare metal between jobs I need to do😅

You should turn the welder on first let it warm up before welding or you will knacker it up all ways wire brush anything after tacking or welding before you do some more as the flux dust will affect the nexted weld your missing the nozzle wat covers the tip I would not worry wat it looks like as long it holds up and no burn holes when you grind it down skim it will a bit of filler then done you will get better as you haven't done alot of welding if you was local to me I would of helped you and show you the better way but your having a go I would of let you use my welder you over tightened the wire so wasn't running correctly you will learn and don't hurt having a go fare play to you mate

it was a awful car new now its even worse