Відео

@@liamcooke5513 hey champ. Appreciate the comment. I actually sold this about 3+ years ago. It no longer fit my needs as I was doing a fair bit of off-road travel. They’re definitely still worth it today though prices are significantly elevated but parts are still hugely available and the 6.2L engine is one of holdens best. If you can get one, grab it.

Appreciate the insight. I need to do an update to this video. I ended up going with essentially a three button back focus system with three different tracking/sensitivity settings which has worked very well. Thank you.

@@ryanheldoorn Oh yeah, you should post that. I'm still chewing on what my AF approach will be with this beast. I think a lot of us are trying to cook that perfect brew. I have a little trouble identifying buttons I'm willing to live without!?! I do like your idea of immediate access to the tracking sensitivity settings so that you can experiment and adjust in the middle of an event. I've added those to the mid-play menu that I set up.

It’s a Large. I’m 6’5 and about 95kg and athletic build. If I had to do it again I’d probably get an xl so I can layer a more profound puffy underneath and the sleeves are longer. But at the time, I felt the XL was just too big.

Hi Irina. Appreciate the question. I don’t think it’s too big for someone with that height. It’s long but quite narrow so it will fit someone with that height well.

Fanboy much!? The ergonomics of any camera is relative to the individual using it. The ‘auto’ canon WB on the canon r3 is NOT the best, it is significantly slower to react to differences in the same scene compared to the Sony a1, a9, and I only said that canon doesn’t allow you to quickly switch back to ‘auto iso’ while the camera is metering, should you accidentally or purposely come out of auto iso and need to return to it. Clearly you’ve never used a canon r3, but you continue flying the canon fanboy flame 👍

@@ryanheldoorn ergonomic base on individual ? What kind of theory is that. Ergonomic is base on research and its health related in long term use. I use 1dxii, mostly i set the wb to auto, and the color came out correctly most of the time. My friend use A1, using auto wb mostly resulting in heavy magenta color. Thats the fact cause i have proof it with my own eyes. LOL. And sony build quality is cheap.

@@wira8811 think you need to look up what ergonomics actually means champ. It is individually based as some people have small hands and some people have big hands, so a big camera in small hands is not as 'ergonomic' as a smaller camera body would be. If you have a big hand using a small camera body would be just as problematic 'ergonomically'. As for you mates A1 magenta shift, that has been documented in previous sony alpha bodies. I extensively used the A1 next to the R3 for months and did not note any magenta shift in auto white balance. Also you use a 1dxii, maybe you should get a canon r3 and test for yourself before you make opinions against those who actually have used one!

@@ryanheldoorn LOL.

Appreciate the kind words. Cheers

Appreciate the kind words champ.

Appreciate the kind words champ. In terms of the OVF Mode, I have not used it at all, as in my opinion, once you’ve used mirrorless and gotten used to the ‘what you see is what you get’ experience of an EVF, it’s pretty hard to go back. The vertical grip feels good. I did go into this in my second video, detailing the feel and button placement relative to the primary grip. The vertical grip in many regards feels better because it’s longer.

@@ryanheldoorn thanks mate, awesome. Subbed. Keep up the good work.

@@chrise4835 ha cheers mate. Have no doubt the R3 will mail anything you throw at it

I think you’ll find, canons official statement is more along the lines of ‘the r3 is not called the R1 because it does not have the same durability and weather sealing that out 1 series cameras are renown for.

@@ryanheldoorn I have watched several videos in which canon officials state that it is weather sealed to the same level as the 1D series bodies. Note, I am not talking about durability, just weather sealing. Having said that, I have the R3 and have held a 1DX II in my hand at the same time and they feel identical in built quality to me at least.

Seems like the weak part is the card-door, Flippy screen and hot-shoe

@@mdbedelsohn4307 I would agree with 2 of those indeed. I kept seeing the camera busy LED light up every now and again when I was getting the camera out of a bag or picking it up with gloves and what it was, was the card door opening just enough and the closing again to make the camera light up the LED. The hot shoe cover is good until, again, you need to get it out of a bag and it can pull off very easily. I often use gaffa tape over the top of it for my snow trips.

@@ryanheldoorn shame at that price point... Sounds like you"ll need to gaffer it totally up.. Right now I'm still more leaning towards the 1DXiii... What do you think, I'm going to miss out too much on the Full-screen AF and other features? Also I do lots of night events and I'm still not trusting the EVF for that... Lens-wise, the EF-line seems capable enough for 20MP (with a huge range of even 2nd hands).

Easy. In manual mode but using auto iso

I’m assuming you’re trying to say that Sony compression on their compressed file formats is far greater than canons compression??? In my experience, the compression is mostly negligible unless of course highlight quality is your greatest concern, because all compression (Sony, canon, Nikon etc) affects highlights or recovery of highlights far more than an uncompressed file format.

@@ryanheldoorn no it is just that things smaller are much compressed there is no Magic, raw uncompressed is uncompressed it is full data if there is less it is a compression no matter What, and canon cleverly never advertise there raw to be uncompressed. It is physics not quality comparison. Again it is not vecaise for your case that works fine that it is somewhat a bit of a compromise, sracking specs mean that you have to be considérant all the things. Like saying définition on Sony is better but not at 120fps yes but at 60 it is better, for raw it is the same but sometimes when you want to recover shadows there are things missing, it could not be Bad but it exist. I dont Say Sony is better, but for canon it is easier to get a good burst, and well Sony compressed raw is not Bad too, it is juste not fair saying Sony des a burst in compressed raw yes but canon toi and note 50 mpx and not redondant recording on the r3. I like canon and Sony considering myself buying the r3 but I dont neglect thé default each have in all fairness

@@Guillaume9 mate I don’t know what you’re on about. The canon r3 files are either raw or raw light. The raw are uncompressed and the raw light are compressed.

@@ryanheldoorn yeah but in no caracteristic details it mentionned uncompressed but canon original raw version 3. It is a choice of lesser data or the better solution much compressed file, there is no Magic on canon raw to fit all that data. Thé other exemple could be for vidéo canon and Sony use somewhat the same codecs but canon choice is to baked in a much bigger bitrate resulting in bigger file for canon so less overheat in the sonys body but there is Always a trade for size and saying the contrary is like saying the earth is flat

@@Guillaume9 you mean the earth is not flat?!!! 🤣 Personally I don’t mind the bigger video size bitrate codecs on the canon r3 as they’re (in my opinion) easier to work with in post because there’s more information. And I think Sony shot only compressed the file format in video because their own cf express A cards only go to 160GB so I’m sure you can see that if the bitrate was the same as canon, people would complain about the cf express A card capacity

To be honest, unless you are putting each camera up to your eye, one after the other, you would barely notice it.

@@ryanheldoorn It is still, doesn't mean that canon is Bad, but I have a r6 a a7Iv and a a7Siii and it shows .. as i Can Say that 120p in the viewfinder doesn't change things that much it is a Real factor that need to be shown that you dont see the differents it is not the point, it is like if just look at an image on the backscreen of a canon or the evf it is less sharp than when you look at it on a computer specifically on canon mirrorless, it is a thing that need to be said even if it makes not that much differents, it is a specifications you can't be half honest

@@Guillaume9 I don’t agree mate. Firstly you can’t compare the evf of the canon r6 with the r3 because you clearly haven’t used the canon r3 because the evf in the r3 is far superior to the one in the r6. You might have a point for video because when shooting video, you can leave the a1 & a7s3 at max evf resolution, and then, yes it’s a bit crisper than the canon r3. BUT, if you’re shooting sports or action and need a high refresh rate of 120fps, then the Sony a1 resolution drops to almost exactly the same as the canon r3 which doesn’t change resolution when increasing refresh rate, and at that point they are basically indistinguishable. You will understand when you actually use a canon r3, but until then, you can’t compare the r6 or the a7iv evf resolution because they are not comparable. So therefore it is an honest review and opinion because I’ve actually used all of those camera except the r6

@@ryanheldoorn look man, if you dont understand What Imean it is sad, r3 fonder is the same as the r5 the blackout free thingy is something else, but the mgnification is exzctly thé same one the r6 r5 and r3 and as they are using the same glass to do that the increase resolution is not much it is sort of 1/3 much résolution than the r6, and looking at an r6 and r5 it IS not that much different just in the r7 you sée more the pixels. However because you dont read m'y comment right, I Say that the canon u i dont show you in playback mode the photo as crisp as it should be, thé r6 fonder is fine, just when i play back it IS less sharp that's What I Say, and I dont know if you look through an r6 to make your statement, it IS a 2/3 résolution r3 fonder with same glass and just not thé eye focus and realtime view in burst

@@Guillaume9 look man! At no point in this whole exchange have you mentioned the canon r5 evf. You said, you had r6!!! I NEVER SAID EVF WAS DIFFERENT COMPARED TO R5!!! It looks like you are the one not reading comments mate. Clearly there is a language barrier here but don’t start being a know it all, when you clearly have never used the canon r3 or Sony a1 and are instead just reading the spec sheet! I suggest you go rent an a1 and canon r3 and do your own REAL comparison instead of going off website manufacturers details. Until that time, I’m going to assume you have no REAL LIFE USAGE EXPERIENCE WITH THE CAMERA YOU SEEM TO THINK YOU KNOW EVERYTHING ABOUT

Enjoy it when you get it finished. Amazing vehicle

Of course there is. Many sport and wildlife shooters shoot Manual but use AUTO ISO, especially in rapidly changing lighting conditions where focusing on composition and tracking is paramount. One particular example of why being able to use exposure compensation in Manual mode while using auto iso, is in snow sports. Cameras don't meter well in the snow because the frame is so full of, well, white snow, so exposure compensation for +.03-+0.7 at times is necessary to make sure the snow remains white instead of the camera underexposing and making the snow grey.

@@ryanheldoorn I understand what you are saying but ISO is not an exposure setting as it does not affect the amount of light entering the sensor. It's more of a brightness control. I understand the usefulness of what you are saying as ISO affects the "look" of the images but it is still not an EXPOSURE value so no, there is nothing to compensate.

@@djole02 I understand what your saying champ but you’re missing my/the point. It’s about ease of use and if a button is labelled as such, it should do said job it’s labelled for in any mode regardless of if it’s feasible, possible or relevant. In the case of auto iso and using exposure compensation while using auto iso, it is useful and relevant and it is an exposure compensation tool regardless of if it’s artificial or not. Even if the camera is iso invariant like most mirrorless cameras are, it’s still valuable to get the ‘what you see is what you get’ sensation or feedback while actually taking the shot.

@@ryanheldoorn I understand you logic and frustration and would like to use it that way on my Canon cameras as well but Canon doesn't treat auto ISO as other manufacturers. I always shoot with some amount of flash and auto ISO just goes to 400 when you turn on flash, it's complete nonsense... In flash photography ISO does affect the exposure as it changes the e-ttl metering values and thus flash output power but I don't understand why it doesn't work like it works on my Nikon cameras.

@@djole02 Well flash is a whole extra can of worms to get into and far outside of my wheelhouse as I rarely use flash unless I'm using it as a lantern for my milky way explorer shots and at that point, I've always use rear curtain shutter (but only with sony cameras).

Sir....you are the man. Yes I did respond but I had a senior moment and as soon as I replied, I realised what you were referring too. Amazing, I worked with CPS Australia for a fortnight on this and we went down the same path with Safety Shift and Shutter Range, but at no point did we realise we needed to have the ISO set OFF AUTO for the Safety Shift to work. You sir are a god send. But as I alluded to in the review, this is all kind of a work around for what should be standard in the AUTO MIN SHUTTER SPEED Settings, and i was comparing it to what every other manufacturer has had for years. CPS Australia kept telling me it was a limitation of the camera, but I think it's a GROSS software oversight that can easily be fixed in a firmware update. Like how hard could it be to add 2,4,8,15,& 30 sec to the AUTO MIN SHUTTER SPEED options which will forgo the need to make all the changes you mentioned above (and basically have it set up as a C3 now to ensure I don't forget anything). Anyway.......very appreciative of you response and help. I'll have to make a video about this now considering the amount of questions I got about this, and you'll get all the props champ!

@@ryanheldoorn You are too kind! I don't think it is necessarily accurate to say the way Canon implement this is weaker than other manufacturers, you can get the same result in the end, you just have to look at the specific issue from another direction. I think, as you said, the key to the way Canon implement Auto ISO is that they apply the handheld reciprocal rule to shutter speed so they tend to start raising the ISO sooner than ideal a lot of the time prioritizing shutter speed over ISO noise. For 'sports' orientated cameras that 100% makes sense, whereas for time-lapse on camera support it 100% doesn't! Although you can tune this behaviour in the ISO speed settings. So put another way, because of the way Canon implements the two functions shifting at the same time (ISO and shutter speed) even if they allowed longer than a second to be selected they would still raise the ISO value too quickly in the time lapse sequence when Auto ISO is selected. As for needing a C function for your specific time lapse settings. Not really, in general shooting the lowest shutter speed set is not going to be a limitation so can be left selected, therefore the only 'trick' is to select an definitive ISO value rather than use Auto ISO. With the settings left as you need them for time lapse, if you use Auto ISO the camera will behave exactly as you currently use it, however when you select an actual ISO value Safety Shift will automatically be applied but only to the ISO value, so again, no functional hinderance. Sounds longwinded but give it a go and I'm sure you will see it makes sense.

@@privatebydesign1808 I do hear what you are saying but I think just like all other manufacturers, regardless of what the camera is aimed at (individual or scenario wise), I think we should be at least offered the option to be able to select and auto min iso shutter speed of more than 1 sec. And to clarify, i tested this and iso doesn't raise when Auto Min ISO shutter is set to 1 sec, until exposure requires it too, so with my above quote (extended times of 2,4,8,15,30 sec etc) you could set any of these values, set your max auto iso to, say 1600 and it's done. Your shutter would drag to you desired extended shutter length, and then once reach, ISO would gradually increase to maintain exposure as light diminishes. This is how it works on nearly all other manufacturers, but more importantly, for A$8300, this should be a standard feature. But thank you for the work around and appreciate the comments and feedback.

@@ryanheldoorn I 100% agree that it would be trivial to put it in the menu, and there is no justification for it having the 1 second limitation other than laziness and the desire to keep the options to one menu table, which are no justifications at all! I don't have the R3, I am still using the 1DX II (I got the different menu positions from the R3 manual but knew you could do what you wanted within the 1 series menu). The way Auto ISO works on my camera when in Av mode is it drops the shutter speed to focal length reciprocal, then raises the ISO until you get to the maximum allowable (preselected) ISO then it drops the shutter speed more. Obviously this indicates a big difference between the way the R3 and the 1DX II do this so sorry for misleading you on that one! I do have the 'Min.shutter Spd.' option set to Auto and one click to the right in the 'ISO speed settings' options so maybe that is the reason? But the way I use Auto ISO with my camera that is the behavior I need. I can work on processing noise I can't process out blur due to too long shutter speeds, but I fully appreciate that isn't what you need in that same situation. I really appreciate the discussion though. These camera options are so complex now you are right to point out that 'testers' that push out videos very quickly after release really are missing the mark far too often as they simply don't get time to customize the cameras to their uses, and that is what makes the cameras so powerful. If even two weeks with CPS can't point you in the right direction how can anybody expect to get the best out of a camera in a week or even less? It's funny, I don't do time lapses and it took me several watches of the video segment to actually understand what you wanted the camera to do (my own senile moment), but once I understood I knew it could be done on my 1 series so looked up the R3 manual to confirm it did have those same options. All the best and thanks for the honest comparisons of an actual user of multi systems in a pro environment. For me personally, a small town pro, now Canon have changed mount I am at the cusp of a new system so I am very interested in direct pro system comparisons. Do I transition to Canon RF with the ability to use my current EF lenses or do I jump all in and move somewhere else? Videos like yours are invaluable in helping me make that decision so many thanks for your work and please keep them coming.

@@privatebydesign1808 Appreciate the kind words and I'm very similar to you in this regard. With regard to the auto ISO setting between 1DX & R3, it's exactly the same. You can choose AUTO and adjust according to the focal length reciprocal rule, or choose an actual minimum shutter value. This is exactly the same on the SONY system, it's just the sony system lets you select 2,4,8,15,& 30 sec in Auto Min Shutter Speed, where as we've already discussed, the canon stops at 1 sec. Personally I don't think it matters what system you go for. I am still heavily invested in SONY but wanted to try something new and knew the R3 would ergonomically suit me better than the Sony cameras I currently own (to a degree). At the end of the day, I think it comes down to what you enjoy using, what feels good in your hand or for your use case, and what makes you get out there and use it. Again, appreciate the kind words.

There is no yellow colour cast on the newer Sony models. If anything, it’s ever so slightly magenta

@@ryanheldoorn I have the A7IV and the R5; it’s not my experience, it’s better for sure but still to yellow at times.

@@hellolau that’s fair enough. I have not shot on the a7iv so I can’t comment on the colours that sensor produces but the a7s3 and a1 I have used extensively and the do not have a yellow cast. As mentioned, they more sway slightly to the magenta but only very slightly and I would argue they’re still much better cameras to do this particular comparison against as the a7iv is a entry level camera in the mirrorless market compared to the aforementioned cameras and canon cameras in the upper echelon of the mirrorless field.

There is spot metering but it’s locked to the center of the frame. Which means you have to focus, spot meter and then recompose…..still very DSLR

Never had an issue with the A1 overheating and I’m in Australia and I had 3 weeks with the camera where temps were always about 30 degrees Celsius. As for bulb mode, it’s never been a menu item on Sony cameras. You just have to be in manual (M) mode and scroll the shutter dial all the way to the left! I never actually said it’s better than canons! I said that most professionals will go through the menus, set their camera up and then will RARELY NEED to go back into the menus! Yes, the 1DX has significantly better battery life and in the past I enjoyed how I could leave it on all day and be instantly ready to shoot. I’d argue the weather sealing between the r3 and 1dx to be very very very close (of course this means leaving the hot shoe cap on the r3), I just think canon bullshitted a little here as to not cannibalise the 1dx iii as it’s still a relatively new camera.

Appreciate you thoughts and contribution

Appreciate the comment and your own experience. Absolutely it comes down to user preference and each has their pros and cons. I’m still not having much luck with the Eye Control AF but I doubt I’m the only one with this regard but glad to hear it works for some.

Haha not sure yet mate. Given they are still out of stock everywhere, I'd still say getting the majority of my coin back would be a fair price.

Haha if I had the extra coin to be able to use 3 different brands at the same time, I would haha

What is better with the Z9? Most reviews seem to evaluate them approximately on par. Serious question.

Appreciate the like but competition finished a few years ago but thanks anyway 👍

That is very true but like you said, the words waterproof and water resistant get thrown around a lot and often irresponsibly. In my opinion, for my use, the jacket is better served in colder conditions so breathability is probably not going to be your number one concern. For me it’s more a outer layer to wear over fleece or puffys to protect them when going through shrub or around campfire etc. You could almost make it’s super water resistant by adding more Greenland wax to the shoulders and hood (meaning you’d still retain more breathability where you want it) and it would be ok in anything but torrential rain.

@@ryanheldoorn Its true that a lot of people are confused by this and when they get the jacket they see it as a negative. Props for answering that fast on a old vid. Will sub. Keep it up.

Appreciate the comment. Mate in my opinion the A1 feels solid. It’s feels very dense and weighty compared to the canon R3. The R3 feels amazing but kind of feels hollow at the same time. It’s weird. I’ve never really had issues with the Sony build quality. I know Sony pro support won’t replace my LCD on the back of my a7s2 because there was corrosion on the internal terminals which is probably due to 100s of Timelapse’s done near the ocean or on frosty nights all while cables were plugged in and what not. So that’s bound to happen after a while. My a9 and a7r3 have been amazing with absolutely no issues technically or build wise. I know some people have issues if they get condensation or water inside the hot shoe on the top. I had this happen once on the a7s2 (even when the hot shoe cover was on) and gave me an accessory warning message and made the camera unable to take images but dried it out and no dramas after that.

@@ryanheldoorn Thanks for the input. I have to much glass and loose to much money to get rid 👍🏻

Appreciate the kind words. Cheers

I’ve only shot the R5 once and it just wasn’t for me. It just felt weird with the battery grip in my use. But absolutely agree with the quality of the files from the R3 being absolutely good enough and definitely holds its own against the 5Dmark IVs 30 odd MP 👍

Actually the 24 mpixel on a R3 with RF lens has the same sharpness as 30 megapixels on other camera

@@ryanheldoorn The battery grip for the R5 was very uncomfortable. I felt like it really dug into the side of my hand when holding it landscape.

Ha but it definitely doesn’t feel cheap. Even though they roughly weight the same, the Sony feels substantially more ‘dense’ and ‘solid’ compared to the canon.

@@ryanheldoorn It absolutely feels cheap, at least in comparison.

I guess that just comes with having a camera for months instead of days 👍

Appreciate the kind words

Yes, but my point being was that you always have to change the orientation of your hands when changing lenses on the Canon.

@@ryanheldoorn no u dont... u can hold the camera horizontally while changing the lens

@@ryanheldoorn that is because you are used to using your left hand to swap lens. But if you have been using Nikon or Canon from start, it really feel clumsy having to hold and swap lens especially the heavier one with your non dominant hand. I guess that is the logic behind as most people are right handed. Anyway, it just take some training, either side is no big deal.

Also, by having the button on the left hand side, you can rest the body on your palm while swapping lens, which makes a more natural posture for you hands to work, also much easier to see the mount and what you are doing, say examine the inside of the mount during swap. It is from my personal experience, It is hard to explain, maybe you should try a few quick swap of heavier lens, with the body resting on your palm to get what I mean. Again probably does not make any difference to younger people with stronger hands.

P/s, if any one having the same issue with sony, my workaround is hold the sony the other way round in my left hand, it’s still a little awkward to reach for the release button, but atleast I can hold it firmly in my palm while my dominant hand working on the digging from bag, swapping, and replace the lens into the bag.

Well said 👍

Appreciate the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video

Hahaha never towed anything with it champ. Didn't want to spoil the rear defuser hahaha