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Craig Stark
Приєднався 30 вер 2009
June 15, 2023
Clearing up confusion on the Fellow Opus grinder’s fine adjuster
TL;DR - just move the macro adjuster back and forth after find adjusting and it works perfectly.
TL;DR - just move the macro adjuster back and forth after find adjusting and it works perfectly.
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Відео
Fellow Opus Fine adjuster
Переглядів 2,9 тис.Рік тому
The Fellow Opus fine adjuster may not do what you think it does. It doesn't actually move the burr, but it shifts the range. In particular, it tells you what to add into the read-out reading to make get the real reading. So, if you go full coarse ( 6 on the inner blue adjuster), that says "add 6/6 to your reading". If you started at 2, when you dialed in 6 it shifted the indicator to read 1. So...
Nebulosity walkthrough - DDP Processing
Переглядів 6012 роки тому
Helping a user find the Pelican in the images: Stretching with DDP (4/4)
Nebulosity walkthrough - 2 star stacking and stretching
Переглядів 3772 роки тому
Helping a user pull a nice Pelican nebula out of the images (3/4)
Nebulosity walkthrough: Preprocessing and initial stacking
Переглядів 1,9 тис.2 роки тому
Helping a user with image pre-processing, color conversion, and stacking in a Pelican shot (2/4)
Nebulosity walkthrough - Determining Color Settings
Переглядів 3662 роки тому
Helping a user figure out the color offset settings in a Pelican nebula shot (1/4)
Mac Atik service installation
Переглядів 4487 років тому
How to install Atik's camera service to let their cameras work in Nebulosity 4. Synopsis: 1) Download the MacAtikInstaller.dmg (www.stark-labs.com/depot/beta/MacAtikInstaller.dmg) 2) Double-click on ClickToInstall 3) It should ask for your password and be done If you want to check to make sure it's running, use the Activity Monitor and make sure View, All Processes is selected. Look for artemis...
NEAIC Guiding export
Переглядів 1,1 тис.8 років тому
Re-upload of a 2008 talk I did at NEAIC on autoguiding on the cheap
Synthetic Flat
Переглядів 9 тис.9 років тому
New synthetic flat tool in Nebulosity 3.3.1 for fixing uneven backgrounds
Nebulosity: New Alignment GUI in v3.2
Переглядів 3 тис.9 років тому
Nebulosity: New Alignment GUI in v3.2
Nebulosity: Histogram, Sliders, and Screen Stretches
Переглядів 3,5 тис.9 років тому
Nebulosity: Histogram, Sliders, and Screen Stretches
How do you set it to grind the at finest setting for espresso?
Wow!!!!!! ❤❤❤ I have watched countless videos and they made it seem so difficult. Thank you!
So.. hang on, so an indicated "1.5" on the outside won't be the same burr gap after moving the internal adjustment?
Ive been watching reviews for the Opus and every reviewer has a different explanation for how this is supposed to work, this one makes the most sense. Take the lessons from this video and pair it witn the "Beine" opus companion app and dialing in will be way easier.
Juste thank you from an old user or nebulosity from France. I still use it every week without clouds.
Finally an explanation! I noticed exactly the same, that it was only moving the outer ring but not the burrs. Even Fellow's own explanation video is frustrating. Thank you
My machine doesn't seem to grind fine enough. I have to set the macro and micro all the way to it's finest settings to get anything resembling espresso.
Look up how to recalibrate it or better yet return it and get a Baratza Encore ESP
i seem to have the same issue. Did you solve it?
@@joshk528 but there's no mod to reduce esp noise
@@Arch0n8 there's no mod to make the Opus good.
Would be great if there was ANYTHING from Fellow about how to use this. Thank you
Super interesting that Fellow seems to have designed the outer ring (notch) to visually realign/resync with the hopper marks, rather than just stay between marks. It seems like it would be more intuitive to show the outer ring dial between marks, even if it compromises on a teensy bit of aesthetics.
Well the official Fellow video on the micro adjustment would suggest that the dial is indeed suppose to be in between each notch, not aligned as this video suggests. So who is correct?
This is by FAR the simplest explanation on how to use the micro adjustment. Thank you!
Great info, btw, can i say: if i want it to be espresso focus, then i set the micro to the max adjustment (all the way to minus), then every clicks in macro will have more resolution ? Or there will be more clicks between 1.0 to 1.1 ?
I haven’t had mine for very long but from what I understand it just allows you to grind a full step finer than normal. So essentially the lowest setting is “0” instead of one
This is the exact video I needed!
Very informative video. 🙏 now i can order this grinder
This is a helpful video Craig, I just ordered an Opus and this really helped me understand this micro adjustment system better. Just one suggestion, you should update the title from the file name so others can find it easier! 😁
Thank you for this video
wow this changes everything. thank you!
Thank you so much!!!
Holy moly. THIS. thank you. I was wondering why the micro adjustments weren’t changing the results. Sometimes it did. Sometimes not. But this worked
Here's an update. This is correct in that the burr doesn't move when you adjust the fine setting. It changes how the macro ring works. After a micro, you *must* move the macro a bit to re-sync things. ua-cam.com/video/d2vwXMqYr4Q/v-deo.html
When i click right click it turns to a spinning busy wheel... Pls help me
Nice
Can you find solution for this bug
Hey guys searching through the internet I found this and it worked "That box seems to be a bug that is being reported by many people at the moment, open Task Manager, select the Processes Tab, then find MiniSearchHost in the list of processes, right click and disable that." I found out that it's easier to find the process if you go to "Details" in the Task Manager. As soon as you end the task, the busy cursor goes away.
thanks man
Thank you so much bro
How to fix it :(
bruuuuhhh I want to fix this shit right now :(((
Craig as someone that’s never used nebulosity before and watching UA-cam videos how do I know what parameters to input into the Bayer matrix setting window I’m using a zwo533mc
I'm having the exact same issue. Can't find a fix for it anywhere.
Great to see you back Craig! Great example!!
Great set of videos, Craig. just wonder though... how come the amp glow is still there? I don't know what camera was this from, but a friend of mine having an ASI CMOS , doesn't use Bias frames, and with darks only the amp glow on the right disappears. so maybe a normal dark stacked would be better than a bad pixel map in this case?
Thank you…..big fan of nebulosity since ver. 1
Great - I have a truckload of images to reprocess - see that I missed some vital steps.
Many thanks, Craig - very helpful tutorial - I see where I have been missing out.
Great image! Great tutorial! Thank you.
Many thanks, Craig - very helpful - Nebulosity fan talking here.
Oh! I just asked you a question about this - didn't realize you have already implemented it! please ignore me.
this is ok but I can do muchbetter using a simple workflow in photoshop
Hi Craig. Can you give advice on how to process narrowband images please. I did my first ever run with my new setup and was able to get detail,but not sure how to get colour for each filter(Ha,Oiii and Sii)
This is too weird. I happen to be struggling with this EXACT IMAGE right now using the demo version on mac. (Looking to buy Nebulosity) I took this with my Olympus OMD E M1 2 and can't figure out the "debayering" step. Skipped it and got a lovely black & white image... Help???
Craig, One of the best tutorials I saw thus far on Nebulosity. Thank you very much.
Just getting onto this and you have saved me heaps of grief with this Nebulosity 4 user here thanks heaps!! You need to make more tutorials especially with the darks flats etc.
Im a complete amateur finding my way into astrophotography and find the videos supporting Nebulosity invaluable. Many thanks and keep up the good work!!!!
2 solutions, add a friction based tension to the pulley, this can be with a bearing or teflon shim. My second guess would be that the grub screws in the pulley have knocked it out of round and a dial indicator could tell you this pretty quickly. You see this alot with cheap tension pulleys. This type of device should have 4 points of tensioning and I would be it only has 1.
How am i the first person to comment on here Craig? Ty for the video & Nebulosity!
How do you use the AutoGuider feature on a ASI120MM with a Mac?
Really Nice, thanks for shareing this with us!
Thanks Craig! Great intro to great software. I've been helping the PHD2 team with slight icon redesign and website. I paid close attention to the Brain icon because I know it's close to your heart. Not literally. That could be fatal. PS.. there is some audio overlap around the 42 minute mark where it sounds like you are talking twice.
Craig these short videos are great for us newbies getting to grips with the power of Nebulosity. It would be a great help and speed up the learning process if you could show a video of grabbing the data, and then processing it through to completion.
Goodness, this is fantastic! *throws lightbox across the room into the fireplace* Thanks Craig!
I can't seem to hear any audio...
I purchased iOptron ZEQ25GT in August 2013 and tried autoguiding with PHD Guiding as usual. The result was not bad except that guide curve showed abrupt sharp and high spikes occasionally. There must have been sudden change in position and rotation speed on the right ascension axis and rapid correction by PHD Guiding following the event. I suspect it due to some play or something rubbish in the gears without any evidence saying that it is a cheap mount made in Taiwan :( I found this UA-cam movie presented by Craig Stark in October 2014 and searched the key word, timing belt jumping. ua-cam.com/video/-LmQCPsqJdA/v-deo.html I came across this pdf for mechanical designers by Mitsuboshi Belting Ltd. www.mitsuboshi.co.jp/english/catalog/pdf/desginmanual-timingbelt.pdf They explained the countermeasure for the belt jumping or the belt teeth jump over pulley teeth on pp3-5. The countermeasure was that increase the belt’s initial tension or the allowed transmission force. I felt the tension of the timing belt of my iOptron ZEQ25GT with my fingers and noticed that there were no tension but play on my copy. It may be natural that the teeth jump over pulley teeth occasionally, but there looked to be no residual space for a tensioner pulley in the mount. I put a small tensioner block made of plastic on the lower surface of the guide port connector with epoxy glue, though I do not know if the lower surface is made and set precise enough for the purpose, but I believed that the elasticity of the circuit board made of epoxy must work fine for the system. I made and filed the block paying attention not to press the belt to the pulley too much. It would make early wear of the belt or overload of the motor, because the belt runs slowly while tracking or autoguiding but fast during slewing. www.flickr.com/photos/hiroc/16389167506/ The mount worked fine several times after the modification, and I present it here today, though I am not sure if it is durable enough or harmless for the belt or the mount.
Awesome fix! Since getting a new mount from iOptron, I've not had the skips. I'm pretty sure it'll come down to a tolerance issue and that those with skips are just outside of it -- belt a touch too long, distance b/n the gears a touch to far, etc. The tensioner is a clear fix. I'd thought of trying to fashion something akin to this (was just going to be a smooth bar) but I like your design better.