Відео

This was very helpful! Thanks for the information. My Skaventide guys are gonna look snappy on their forest bases made from 100% real forest!

I like the idea but i wouldnt use paints for miniature maybe with general water colur paints, to reduce costs

Wtf so much effort for this i think there is an much easy way and dude wtf is that big bruch and why the hell your using tape?😂 but the result looks not too bad❤

Still waiting on that mumak tutorial

Lovin' da Ork shack! This is awesome! I'm going to assume that this same process could be used for things like food carts, shack entrances, and so much more. Thank you for showing your idea. It is immensely helpful :)

You could just as easily and for less expense use epoxy putty instead of green stuff.

Used this before I bought a resin 3d printer. The printer is much more efficient and gets better results. I also think green stuff is way to expensive for using it (except new sculptsor small repairs). Molds can be shaped to allow filling two components resin in it.

930th subbscriber...I feel special :))

My dad did something similar with plaster to make bricks for terrain

Miliput or a combination of miliput and greenstuff is also what I would recommend just as copying a miniature or bit entirely front to back with blue stuff. Mostly just needs some work afterwards with a hobby knife and you got yourself a copy of a mini to „test“ anything just like color patterns on

Throw away that blue stuff and just buy a resin printer.

I'm really new to the crafting experience for miniatures, so forgive me if this is an otherwise 'obvious' question, or one that has been asked before, but: Can this sort of thing be done with milliput, as well?

Green stuff too sticky? Use a small amount of hand lotion on your fingers. Makes using green stuff very easy.

Polyaclay could i make molds then the actually pparts with it too ???

: D amazing for diorama building <3

stop biting your finger nails ....... dang how old you are ?

Pretty cool! Well done

just buy 3d printer...

I'm going to find elephant models just so I can do this. Great work.

Damn, not everyday do you find such informative video like this one. Reallly easy to follow and explained to depth.

Great vid!

❤ used to love it before 3D printing became affordable and widespread.

Were did you buy the arrows?

Excellent tone building 👌

This is amazing! I’ve been trying to find a good tutorial to paint ivory!

Holes in home casted models are not necessarily a bad thing and it can end up being a useful and unexpected bonus for you. Here's why : If a shield has holes, insert arrows in to them to depict a tirade of arrow fire. If a sword breaks while removing it from it's mould, use it to depict the failure of the weapon and why it was discarded, or place it near the hand of a dead man on your base, or even place it in a hole of the deceased to represent the sword being thrust deep into the torso, and it stays in the body because the dead man's sword was taken instead by the victorious slayer. Any dead bodies with holes can always be rescued in several ways. Firstly, by the addition of an arrow stalk you can add to its narrative. It makes the model look more realistic as it appears that he has succumbed to death by being hit with a salvo of archery fire, rather than just being dead with no reason as to how. Models should always be animated - in essence, telling the story of what's going on in that part of the battle. You can either create a new arrow, by the addition of a straight, green florest wire with some small, sculpted, green stuff flight arrows, added to the end of the exposed shaft, or, using a regular arrow, cutting off the arrow point and inserting into the hole. Even if the arrow shaft breaks there's no problem - just add the broken section to the models hand, thereby giving the impression that the dead man tried to remove it before dying). It looks especially good if the arrows are in the face or torso regions, hitting major organs or eyes, but they can still be used anywhere on the model. The holes can always be expanded and sculpted a little where an "explosive" crater has been formed, to depict a gruesome, painful demise to the enemy. It can be caused by plasma burn, bullets, laser burn, sonic immolation or even burning from a caustic chemical weapon. With the addition of blood and guts, small pieces of flesh, caustic chemicals, laser scars, or burning skin, hanging from the hole, a problem now has a solution. This wound could be from a shotgun, a plasma rifle, laser gun, sonic weapon, chemical attack or gunpowder grenade. If a body cast comes out flat in any area because not enough green stuff was used or enough pressure used to force it into the mold, then again there is always a solution. Make it look like the body has been "squashed" and been run over by a tank, wagon or stomped on by an elephant as it rushed forwards. Make extra ruts or stampede marks in the soil adjacent to the body (ground could consist of green stuff, mud products or fast setting epoxy and a black light) by rolling a wheel, pressing tank tracks, or elephant footprints into the soil around or close to the dead body, sometimes even on the flat area, like a muddy tank track over the body. This gives the clear indication to everyone that sees it, just how the man was killed. If the body breaks in any way while you are removing it from the cast, the answer is simple - this is how the soldier died and his body was simply hacked to death by a sword, or blown apart by explosion, or had whatever part of his body broke off, used to explain his death. A mass of blood and guts in a small area can always be used to narrate the story. Problems with a cast items can always be circumvented - you just have to change the way yout mind looks at things and see an opportunity to do something cool and impressive, as opposed to seeing a miscast disaster and failure. I hope this helps someone.

Have you got a video on how to do the skin? :)

i'm painting a kabuki mask that has two tusks on it. i am going to use your technique to do this. thanks for the video and the instructions. i will definitely check out more on your channel since i am new to painting.

Was the painting of the skin not recorded? Your other tutorials on this model are pretty great, but I’d love to see how you did the rest of it.

Was this tutorial useful, or do you have any questions? Let me know in the comments below!

thats why you use milliput it hardens in 5 hours and is waaaaay cheaper

it's so good for making scatter terrain and fun objective bits

That real fabric texture looks great. Excellent build!

I am loving this! I have some conquest W'adrhŭn dinos i have to paint, and this totally inspired me

You can also use some vaseline to lubricated the inside of the mould so you can extract the greenstuff easier

Great vid! 👍 Rip to all the dead horseys 🐎 and men 🙏

Beautifully restored!

Damn, it looks really good! 😀

What a beautiful base! Love the amount of planning and work that have gone into this!

That's a really great-looking base, it's almost terrain at this point ! Any tips on where to find arrows like yours ?

Did you enjoy this video? Let me know with a comment and like - it helps a lot!

Great work👍🙂

Thanks again for the in depth view! Will certainly use this when painting my mumak :)

Looks great! I love the texture of the finished build.

Loved seeing each part of this project come together. Looks great Bopi! Congratulations on the 500 subs btw! 9:40

Enjoyed the video? Let me know in the comments below and by leaving a like! 👍