Відео

Glad to hear it man! Hope it helps! Just remember to go back in and program it the second time to make sure it stays in the computer

As many as you or the previous owner put in it. There is no standard password

about .203 inches

So if you have the padlock on it and don’t know the password you can’t fix it. You need to replace your motherboard

I was under the impression that there was water damage because it was dropped in some water hence why I tore it apart but Apple put a coating on the board to resist liquid

So there isn’t a way that will fully remove it besides 2 things. Having the owner of the device remove it or taking it to Apple with proof of purchase like a receipt from an authorized retailer to prove it is yours then they will remove it. You can temporarily remove an iCloud lock on an iPhone 11 or 12 and older with jail break but if it dies or shuts off you have to redo all of it. So all in all not much of a way short from knowing the password or having Apple remove it.

Yeah it will help if you don’t know the login password but not if it has iCloud on it.

So when you say it goes to the passcode screen you mean like where you’d log in to use the computer normally?

@@randomnugs649 yes! When I enter my passcode and click enter it will show the progress bar then restarts to the Apple logo screen with the chyme sound

So depending on how old it is you can do an smc reset for your year and make for it if you Google it. That could fix it. If not it sounds like that you have a firmware issue with your data. You’ll need to go into recovery mode and get to disk utility and run first aid on your hard drive. If that doesn’t fix it you could try to wipe it or if it’s old enough you could replace the hard drive and see if it fixes it. If it does then you would need to wipe the original drive or replace it with the new one. But do the other steps first before messing with removing the hard drive.

If you’re not certain of the year of the Mac you can find the model number on it (usually starts with a letter and 4 numbers after it.) then google that model number and it’ll be able to tell you.

Yeah it fixed my issue. It did try to act up again later and I sprayed some lubricant down the inside of the cable to keep it from happening again. I sold the car last year but it worked when I sold it though.

@@randomnugs649 thank you so much for replying! ill give this a shot

Of course hopefully it helps!

Dang I’m sorry to hear that. So sometimes it will do that and you will need to do a pram or smc reset by pressing certain buttons depending on model and year. Example like a 2015 MacBook is different than 2018 because of the security chip. By doing that ive had good success with it fixing this. It would then let you continue with internet recovery. You may not have a recovery partition and if you don’t then you’d need a Mac OS booter on usb drive. If the internet recovery doesn’t work.

@@randomnugs649 thank you so much

Hopefully it helps

You’re welcome

You're welcome!!

I found them on ebay. I unfortunately don't have the part number anymore. You could also see if rockauto.com has any as well. I like to get parts from them too.

One of the buttons had stopped working and the batteries didn’t last super long.

If you mean what is the password I typed in it is 1234. However that may not be your password to your computer. There is no sure way to remove that lock without having the correct password.

Yeah you can set it up that way to do that. There isn’t a way to take it off if you don’t have the password. You could try simple stuff like 1234 or something but if that doesn’t work and the previous owner doesn’t know the password then you’ll need to replace the motherboard because it sticks with that board no matter what

There is no universal hardware password. It is whatever you set it up as or a previous owner set it up as.

Very good tip that works well. Thank you

It’s different for each computer. It’s whatever you set it as or the previous owner set it as.

1234

😂😂😂 I will try

I’m glad I was able to help!

Correct

That is correct

How can I go about it if I don’t have the flash installer

I’m sorry. Depending on the design that part may not come apart.

Just force it 😂

You have to pull down a little, as if you you were trying to bend the whole pump. Then it will come off easier than just pulling straight, (same for the following step that frees the marble), when you reassembly you don't even have to snap it back on place, just let it loose until you screw it to the bottle again.

What year is the device? If you happen to know. This software only works with 2018/2019 devices and newer. (Unless it’s a phone) However if you’re on a Mac and dfu no longer works I would try a nvram/pram reset

@@randomnugs649 2021 M1 Max 14'. I tried everything, nothing works. I am desparate to get my files back

So that one doesn't have a key combo for nvram or pram it has smc and you reset that by turning it off and back on. However tell me what is going on with it. (Also side note it popping out of dfu could mean that it is turning fully on.) Is the issue you are having is that you can't see the screen? Does it make a boot chime?

@@randomnugs649 Do you have an E-mail or instagram or anything? Please, I am desparate to try recover my files, and here communication isn't the best

@@randomnugs649 Just emailed. I thought i replied a while ago but I guess youtube bugged or something, I cant see my reply

Thank you! I am glad you found it helpful!

Ok I'd be happy to help. Let me make sure I understand the issue correctly. So you don't have a display correct? If that is the case do you have an external display like a monitor or a tv you could connect it to? ( I know that you would have to get an adapter to do it if you don't already have one.) So before spening money on it if you just go to turn it on like you would with a functioning one ( just hitting the power button) does it make a boot chime? It might not because I know they took them out of at least the macbooks around then. But if it does make a boot chime then that is a very good sign and an external display could defintley help out at that point. You could then go ahead and coninue with this tutorial or wipe it by itself. Another way of avoiding everything would be to put it into target disk mode by holding T down on start up. If you google it it'll tell you what ports you need to connect it to to a different mac. You can then wipe and format it with a different machine.

However if it has a firmware password on it ( I have a video showing it and what happens ua-cam.com/video/IoPsgXkKzxo/v-deo.htmlsi=qcqcUGHAwJbWUCpD) and try to wipe it then it will stay on there. Without taking off the password it stays on no matter what.

@@randomnugs649 Exactly it doesn't have a screen and I have it connected to an external screen with a cable, and yes, I have it connected to another Mac the iMac doesn't make the characteristic sound it just enters the black screen with the logo of the apple and the bar charging the system takes a little bit to charge after it finishes charging again do the same but faster and in the end it is where it presents the screen to place the 6-digit key

Wait it is asking for a password?

Sorry I just read the previous comments. Do you know the password? If so I can talk you through how to remove it.

Hope it helps out. Also I am not sure if you seen my comment I left on it but something you could do if hot water doesn't work use a rinse aid in a glass to help with the filter

Guess so

So I do not think you need wifi to turn off the firmware password. As for the slow load time. If it is 2012 or older than it probably has a hdd (which is a spinning hard drive which are very slow) you can replace it with an hdd and it will improve speeds. If it is trying to load into system recovery it could be an issue with the battery (I would try having it plugged in while doing it) if it isn't that it could be the hdd or sdd failing.

I'm sorry I don't understand the question. This chromebook is a chromebook that doens't run off windows. If I wipe it and put new os on I use the chrome extension for chromebook repairs

I’m glad it helped!

I didn’t use one. The only thing I used besides my hands was a towel.

You should be able to. As long as the buttons still work. If not you could plug in an external keyboard. Keep in mind though that the one in target mode needs to be a t2 security chip or silicon in it for the software to work. If its a macbook older than I think 2019 (older than that wouldn't have a t2 chip) then it won't work.

You're welcome! Hope it helped you out. It does sit in the bottom of there. It's kinda hard to put back in it. That's what happened to me and that's why I took this one apart to take the marble out and put in the one I lost it out of. If you come across another pump the marbles are pretty universal so you could always scrap one out of it.

@@randomnugs649 Great! Thanks for the reply

It definitely was.

Thank you!

Fair I guess it is more of a make and model rather than age. I just know the older gms are that way.

That is good to know. Also yes Rock auto is a good place for cvt parts. I have been thinking about changing the cvt to a manual though.

Thank you! I’m glad it was able to help at least a little bit. I tried to take any of the rings off before brute forcing it and I couldn’t get any of them off. It was a junk toy that my work wanted to throw away and I only had a few minutes to tear it apart. If I ever run into the same model again I’ll keep in mind your information. I think it’s very helpful and thank you for letting me know and for anyone else in need of how to tear it apart.

I don’t have the problem like I used too. It won’t almost die out completely but does still run rich and try to stall out with the a.c. on. Im gonna take my scan tool and hook up to it and check out the o2 sensors. I’ll let you know what I find.

​@@randomnugs649whats the update?

Figured I'd give you my update. I have replaced just about everything on mine. What really stands out is when I watch the IAC counts max out open, the engine still idles low. Every now and then if this happens and I cycle the key and start it back up the engine will rev to around 4k rpm and will slowly come back down as the IAC counts decrease. An old mechanic friend looked at the recorded data from my scanner and said everything looked normal except for the IAC counts. He suggested checking every ground circuit on the car as it could be affecting the IAC circuit which could explain the idle issues. Hopefully in the next couple if weeks I will be able to check this out. I'll let y'all know.

FINAL UPDATE: after running tests, I found the 4 wires from the PCM to the IAC had corrosion somewhere in the engine harness. They tested good when looking at continuity but failed when put under a load. The fix is to replace the harness, but I bypassed the engine harness and installed my own new wires from the PCM to the IAC. The car runs perfectly now.

Heck yeah! Good job, I was reading your comment and wasn't exactly sure what it could be, but I am glad you got it figured out. I wonder if that is what was the matter with mine. It would especially do that in the morning.

I had originally thought my transmission was acting up and jerking the vehicle around. I was mistaken and it was actually a misfiring engine due to a stock throttle body mixed with an idle air control valve.

Sorry I mean stuck not stock