Відео

the headlight motor has a molex connector on it, disconnect it (remove the relay as well - optional) then use the wheel/dial on the motor to manually raise the lights and they will stay at whatever position you set them at. The wheel/dial on the motor may have a rubber boot on it. I actually left mine popped up for over 2 years without issue. I was troubleshooting a short and just decided to leave them up. Next thing I knew, I preferred that look.

I've had similar issues with the 944. Most of them were resolved by cleaning and/or adding an additional ground wire/s to various components. Most of the upgrades,and in my videos, you will note that I upgrade the wiring and ground connections. Also, as I mentioned briefly in the video, consider that there is a harness for the LED upgrade that is sold by Rennbay and Pelican parts. I'll list one of them in this reply. This upgrade might be your solution. OK, if you look along the side of the radiator support on the inside by the headlights. You'll find the ground connection for the lights. A good test would be to run the grounds directly from the battery. Make sure you use a 12 or higher gage wire. then run a test with your LEDs. Oh and you do not need to completely install the LED bulbs, simply connect them and have the grounds wires connected to battery. if the Flickering is less then you'll want to clean up your grounds or replace them with heavier gage wire. Lastly, you should also try a different brand or return the lights a try another of the same set. Sometimes it's just a bad unit or LED. Ground Loop is the enemy of Audio and power. Clean those guys up or reinforce the connections and you'll see a huge difference in how your electrical devices function in that 80s car - Good luck let me know what you find. rennbay.com/944-Headlight-Relay-Harness.html

@@porsche944shenanigans3 Thankyou very much for your advice, I will definitely try out your suggestions and look at that harness.

Absolutely, this setup is now my permanent cooling setup. I was planning to remove the Zip Ties and plastic weld them, however, I like the idea of the fans remaining serviceable without modifying the shroud any more. I'm still on the hunt for a better solution to keep them in place but the zip ties are holding up just fine more than a year later - haha. As far as true functionality, daily commuting is fine. Additionally, I drove it to LA and even in that crazy Freeway traffic of stop and go, the fans kept my engine temps in line. Outside temp was mid 90s so I chalked that up to a successful run. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.

@@ziptiesandducttape-ac3corv157 Thanks bro now I feel confident doing this, I already took out the radiator and fans and changed a few things meanwhile I had that out, now that my new radiator came in I just need the fans, I’m willing to spend a good amount for some brushless fans if I can find some but i haven’t had luck do you have a link to where you got yours? The old link doesn’t work anymore 🥲 thanks again bro

@@monkie-centurie4986 Seems they're no longer being sold thru that link. well here is some info. They are 10" universal push/pull fans. Height: 10.75 depth:2.5 - 2.7 (of course the fans are 10" from blade tip to tip) I found a similar one here (see below) They seem to be pretty close, If I were buying a replacement today, I would get these - Good luck www.amazon.com/MOSTPLUS-Universal-Electric-Radiator-Mounting/dp/B07D3NVLRM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=32XQ8PJ5YLF5X&keywords=10%2Binch%2Bradiator%2Bfan&qid=1655786717&s=automotive&sprefix=10%2Binch%2Bradiator%2Bfan%2Cautomotive%2C117&sr=1-4&th=1

hmmm...that is a good question, the short of it is - YES, resistors do get warm and even hot when the circuit is drawing amperage. In lighting, the DRL or blinkers are part of the lighting circuit on our cars so I would suspect them to be hot. Be sure to mount them in a semi ventilated area so they can cool and heat up as needed. away from the wires of other lighting components. I've not had an issue with mine. They are hot to the touch as well when I tested them. Only other thing I can think of is if perhaps your did not make a good contact when you crimped them in to the circuit. If their not well seated/soldered or crimped they (well any electrical connection) will run hot because of the lack of contact with the circuit when hot/on. - does that make sense? I hope that helps, and glad you found my video helpful

@@porsche944shenanigans3 I was about to reply to my message saying, I tried it with a piggy back with no ground and resistors and it worked. The reason mine were flashing fast was because I had my bumper off and the other signal/parking light wasn’t connected. I plugged it back in and it works just straight wired. So now I’ve got a female with the tab starting in the plastic housing with 2 14ga wires feeding out. One for the original power and the other going to the headlight signal. I did that tomes 3 and reasoned the ground didn’t need 2 wires, so I’ll use one of those on the other side. Idk how y’all did it with the bumper on, I couldn’t get my hands up in there but the bumper off made it way way easier.

I have yes, the 1989-91 had a slight variation in the water pump housing that allowed for that. There should be alignment holes/openings for those 2 pins. What I suspect is that someone installed a water pump from a turbo that is similar to the 89 style and that pump does not have the pins. I believe the only difference is the pins on those 2 pumps, though its been a while. I had a similar issue as I did own an 88 and one year i received a pump with pins on it. I ended up just grinding them down and blocking off the extra cooling line on it- haha. But only after I compared both pumps and noticed that was the only difference. The last pin actually fell off during the grinding. Now if I recall, the 2.7 and the turbo both have an extra water line that the NA does not. So, If you can afford to wait. maybe order the 86-88 turbo pump and compare them. That should be identical but without the pins. I hope that helps

there are 2 different LED types you can get from them the B8.5D-NWHP is a whole unit (it the white unit I reference on the video as NON-REPLACEABLE LED) and the 74-xHP3-CAR : this is just an LED and will install on to your existing bulb socket. For me, they both worked. I ran each for some time until I decided to just replace the sockets and LEDS all together (the amazon links I show in the comments). IF you go this upgraded route, make sure that you buy LEDS with the "SMD" designation. They fit better and will light up your gauges much better as well. AMAZON changes a lot but these should work FACTORY SOCKET: www.amazon.com/Guage-Cluster-Speedometer-Light-Bulbs/dp/B0761R7CMT/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2NZICAQNE98LS&keywords=LED+T5+SMD&qid=1649434696&sprefix=led+t5+smd%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-15 LEDS SMD: www.amazon.com/Dashboard-Instrument-Conditioning-Accessories-10Pcs%E3%80%901797%E3%80%91/dp/B07GCD7Q7M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2NZICAQNE98LS&keywords=LED+T5+SMD&qid=1649434696&sprefix=led+t5+smd%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-5 Thats just a couple of options, you are looking for B8.5 (or T5) type LEDS and sockets - Good luck, hope that helps

That is correct, Yes, they were missing from the get go, if you watch part one, they are not present when I remove the tower. This early car never did have them. I've removed this tower several times and found that if you let the bolts guide the tower in place, everything lines up. I've not had an issue in the now 8 years of owning this car and removing the CAM tower 4 times now due to maintenance and minor upgrades.

You're welcome, glad it was helpful

that's correct, the idea is to flush out the system with a continuous stream of water (so yes, a garden hose at full pressure). keep an eye on the water exiting, once you see the water that's coming out turn semi/clear, your flush is complete, and as I mentioned, I run the hose through the radiator and through the engine block so that I get as much sludge or old coolant as possible. No worries on question, I know what it's like to hear/watch something and go "just to be clear.." LOL, good luck and thanks for watching.

@@porsche944shenanigans3 Oh ok then yeah that makes complete sense, I just wanted to clarify lol thank you for your response 👍🏼

Yee

Hey Ron, Channel is on a small hiatus as my job is keeping busy. I do have a few more vids I'll be posting. However, it may closer to March when they're up. I'm in California, Bakersfield to be exact. 1983 huh? Early cars are much easier to work on - well, that's my take and I've owned an 88, 85 and 86. send me you're email. I'll hear you out, though I'll be honest, I have a major project at work that will keep me busy for some time. Please don't take offense if my replies are delayed every now and then...Thanks for watching.

Hey Mark sorry to hear you're having that issue. OK, so I few things Around 2:50 I go over the basics on the twist sockets. Make sure you have the polarity correct (so flip the LEDs around till they work). Also, make sure that the area around the socket connection is clean. Maybe use some sand paper to clean lightly around the opening of the light so that when you twist it, there is a good contact. Additionally, on a previous install, one of lights wasnt turning on and I found that I had damaged the internal clips (the ones inside where the LED is inserted). I ended up having to replace the whole socket. That's where I got the idea to replace the old style with the ones I used in this video. Hope that helps some. as you saw, I would never recommend working on electrical with the battery connected. However, I had to reconnect the battery for the testing of the LEDs (see 14:30) it's really the only way to ensure you have good contact and polarity on this upgrade -Good Luck man, once again, hope this helps and thanks for watching.

Thanks for your help, I just ordered the ones I can wire in, by the way I have a 88 924s, I've owned for 30 years. Just wanted to update the dash lights

if you're around the oil pressure and clock then the others will be for the lighting to the panel. If you look there's a hollow plastic cylinder on the right below or around clock where a bulb goes , and one on the left side as well. They will light the middle cluster so that the AC panel and switches have lights as well at night. I hope that help.'s my unit is back together so I'm doing my best to remember.

Can't really say...car is a basket and I have just been piecing it back together. For all I know the previous owner may have added them but it looked mostly factory.

What up Nate, thanks for watching. as always, start wit the basics and make sure they are seated correctly. Though, the fact that you noticed it right away probably means that you did. For me, I didn't have that issue, maybe I got lucky. if you look at my install video around 2:14 you'll see i point out the adjustment screws. You'll need to loosen them so that you get the lights back into spec and lower the beam. it's usually only 1/4 turn increments so take your time. Good luck Here's the video, around 2:14 I point out one of the adjustments screws. you should be able to adjust it via that one. ua-cam.com/video/OqQEs4ROIAg/v-deo.html

@@porsche944shenanigans3 yes, that did it. Thank you! Subbed.

it's a little time consuming but worth the effort. Good Luck, thanks for watching the vid, I'll have some more videos up at the end of the month.

Thank you, question for clarification, writing HELLA doesn't really tell me HOW to pronounce it. is it "Heel-ah" or "Hell-ah" not sure what vowel sound should be dominant there. I hear both variations. And again thank you for your clarifying, I do want to get it right.

@@porsche944shenanigans3 It’s like the second one ‘hell-ah.’

@@porsche944shenanigans3 Hell-ah like hella good ;)

LOL - Thank You for the comments. Sorry to make you cringe. I did a bad job of explaining the removal. That CAM was actually bad as I showed where the original woodruff key had damaged it. I pulled it out knowing the CAM was bad. But I should have explained that more. I'll do a better job on my newer videos that I'll be posting mid September.

@@porsche944shenanigans3 Not worried about the cam, it's the bearing surfaces inside the cam housing that can get damaged as the lobes get dragged across them as they are much softer. You can fix that cam by just cleaning up the keyway with a file or a small grinding bit and a Dremel. Looks like someone tried to use a chisel to remove the key but a majority of the keyway is still straight.

It really is, well, if you just want to visually inspect it. I have attached a quick pic of the distributor cap/housing. First, locate the front distributor cap (where the spark plugs connect). Then locate the 2 screws (top and bottom) in the pic its #11. the screws do not come off. You have to push them in about half inch and then turn them so they release the distributor cap. Second, locate bolt #13, there are 2 different bolts on our 944s. some are hex while others are allen head. you'll know once you see it. You'll have to use either a 6mm socket or I think it's a 2.5 allen for the other. Next remove the rotor and the dust cap (#14). Lastly, remove bolt #27 and it's housing to get to the cheese head bolt. You can now visually inspect it. In the event that you need to remove or replace it, look through my videos on how to set the engine to TDC before you do any of that. Then search for my "Porsche 944 CAM Tower Install with 4 degree offset key" Around min 2, I show what is needed to remove the bolt. You do not have to remove the CAM tower. But if you need to remove this bolt you will need to re/set your timing. so be ready for that. PIC: rennlist.com/forums/attachments/924-931-944-951-968-forum/258622d1204422965-ignition-rotor-hex-bolt-distributor-rotor-shaft.jpg

@@porsche944shenanigans3 thank you very much! I will do this to check the cam. Someone suggested they can become loose. But now i think the noise is coming from the firewall side of the engine. Not sure where to go from here. Can i send you a video clip of my sound? I get a big bang/clank right upon start up, and the same bang as i turn the engine off. And when its idling, its a loud knocking sound, that goes away as i increase the RPMs.

@@danmazz8733 man that sounds bad and confusing. Upload it to UA-cam and send me the link here. Have you tried forums or maybe posting your video in FB? They have a great community over on the "EDREDAS" Facebook group. A lot of great 944 minds on there. Brent Burnett checks it regularly and he is by far one of the most talented people for the 944. I'm sure you've seen his channel on here. Send me the vid link and post it on FB as well.

@@porsche944shenanigans3 im not on Facebook, it might be time to register. I have an audio clip that i can email you if your like to give it a quick listen. Im not sure how to post Video on YT.

@@danmazz8733 Ah ok, send it hear libegar@outlook.com, heading to work but I'll try to listen and reply when possible

the headlight motor has a molex connector on it, disconnect it (remove the relay as well - optional) then use the wheel/dial on the motor to manually raise the lights and they will stay at whatever position you set them at.

I do not unfortunately, but let me try to help via this reply. First, these are universal Push/Pull Fans, which means that the fans can run either direction (clock/counter-clockwise). IF you pause the video around the first second. You'll see that all I did was attach some spade terminals to the end of the fans. The spade terminals will plug in directly to the OEM FAN harness/plug. What i did to make sure the fans were spinning in the right direction: first I installed them on the shroud. I connected them one only for each test. I then placed the shroud on the radiator-I didn't bolt it up. I turned the car on and turned the AC on, this makes sure both fans turn on, although like i said, only 1 is connected at a time. Then I grabbed a grocery bag(or piece of paper) and I placed it in front of the AC condenser. if it was pulled into the condenser without falling, then it is spinning in the right direction. If the bag or piece of paper gets pushed off the condenser then I would switch the wires and retest.There's only 2 wires so it's pretty easy to figure it out and switch them around. Once I had them correct I marked them with electrical tape and pic for later wiring. bottom line, you want the fans pulling the air in to the engine bay. Hope that helps _ good luck

@@porsche944shenanigans3 Thanks for the help

@@porsche944shenanigans3 looking to start fan replacement. the harness plug has 3 terminals. since replacement fan has only 2 wires, is one terminal just left vacant? if so, which one?? thanks.

@@aaroncombs2783 Apologies for Late reply, I'm away but looked at my notes. On the early cars, here is the wiring - see below. One fan will have 3 wires. Positive on one side and the ground/trigger wires both splice in together. I hope this helps. FAN 1 (Drivers side): Terminal 1: Red/BlK (+12V from Cooling Fan Relay) Terminal 2: Brn/Red and Brn/Wht (GROUND Trigger - spliced in together) FAN 2 (Pass Side) Terminal 1: Grn/Yel (+12V from Cooling Fan Relay) Terminal 2: Br (Ground)

thanks so much for your timely response. If I understand correctly, you removed the harness plug with 3 terminals, allowing the splicing of terminal wires 2 & 3 ? @@ziptiesandducttape-ac3corv157

possibly, take a look at this pic from Pelican Parts. At each end of the Cylinder head there are studs that help align the CAM tower. These Studs have their own small nut. You may have missed the nut even though you removed all the bolts. Also, the exhaust hits the rear part of the tower slightly more so you may also need to tap it with a wooden dowel or rubber mallet to loosen it. if you have a plastic/firm wedge of some kind, you may also try to pry it up. I had that happen to me once and I just tapped it till it felt loose. Just be careful. Good luck and let me know if that works out for you. And Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it. cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_944_Turbo/80-ENGINE-Cylinder_Head_Gasket_Replacement/images_small/pic09.jpg

That's great to hear! Makes those drives at night even more enjoyable, right? I'll have some more videos up soon. Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful.

Apologies, I made this to demonstrate the install and removal process only. Kind of a newbie at this Video stuff. I guess a before and after would have been good.

If it’s the caps of the tower then spray around them with penetrating fluid or WD40. Then place the hex/Allen bit on the cap and tap them with a hammer. They call it “waking up a bolt” this usually does the trick. It allows the penetrating fluid to enter the thread of the bolt and loosens the bolt/cap as well.

Here you go, this video is actually a quick update to a previous video I posted. Amazon: 10" Universal Radiator Cooling Fans 12V 80W Slim Fan www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWMJFHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@porsche944shenanigans3 Thanks very much!

Thanks Ross, and thanks for watching.

Yes that's how it will work on our cars and with these lights. since the DRLs and Signal lights share the same area on the Lights, they will trade light sources during signaling. The only other option, if you can find it, would be to run lights that offer separate LEDs for the DRL and the signal lights. But no clue if that is even an option - Sorry. Thanks for commenting and watching. In a few months I'll have more videos up loaded.

@@porsche944shenanigans3 could you let me know the reason why you used the resistors? What was your original problem? Thx a lot

@@porsche944shenanigans3 this is what I have (without resistors) ua-cam.com/video/VeGAM1vERbk/v-deo.html

@@tusaisis oh I see, yes, no issues on your end. LED and Halogen lights use slightly different power resistance. Halogen relays have a specific resistance to work the turn signals and if the power is too low or not present, it starts Hyper-Flashing. That way you know a bulb is out. When you use LED for turn signals, and do not have resisters built in, you car will Hyper-Flash because it thinks there is no bulb, since LEDs have a different power resistance. In my case and other owners, buying LEDs without resistors caused our cars to Hyper-Flash and/or Flash like a camera. Every year more and more LED models are coming out and I have seen that some now have built-in resistors. Congrats on not having the issue. If you're still curious - google Hyper Flash LED, you'll see what I'm talking about - Hope that helps (sorry if I rambled on)

oh yes, I saw that years ago. I was going to post some more concrete numbers but they vary so much from car to car on something like this. As for myself, I love the upgrade. I use this car to commute once a week and also for weekend driving and it changes the light to light experience. But I also have a Throttle response Cam, free flow CAT and I run 91 O Gas. I had a fellow owner drive my 944 and he said it feels strong and Revs great. That's about all I can tell you - No true Dyno I'm afraid. It's not a turbo but it pulls much better in my opinion. Thanks for the comment. once it warms up a bit I'll post a few more vids as well. Hope you'll stick around

Hey Rico, all the info is in the description. I have links there as well. I hope that helps, thanks for watching.

@@porsche944shenanigans3 thxs u got a email i can send u a pic of mines

Sure, you can reach me at this libegartablet@gmail.com for now.

Great video thanks. Where did you get the frame that sits on top of the headlight to hold it in position? I don’t have that. Maybe you know the part number?? Thanks a lot

Try this link, I use this site for parts reference sometimes. But all my parts are from my vehicle nothing extra except for the headlights www.porscheatlantaperimeterparts.com/products/Porsche/944/Headlight-Lift-Lever/3660981/477805651.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&partnerDevice=m&userLocation=9031712&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlsv_BRDtARIsAHMGVSb0NYzJIaaFfxZbGsVkyED8amup_9ufNkOtVFCfnfOg9mN_QNluRQ8aAkl7EALw_wcB

Glad it helped. And it appears that this is the norm for our cars. I'll be looking at possibly creating a direct and separate circuit for the DRL. But, I have a few more projects before that. Once complete, however, I'll update you if anything changes on the LEDs - Have a great one man.

I did, with the signal lights; I spliced into the positive lead of the signal lights on the bumper, from there it was just 2 spade connectors on opposite ends to tie into the headlight signal wire. For the DLRs, which I eventually decided to not leave active, I bought some "Baomain Piggyback Spade" connectors, search for that. and the DLRs worked well with the parking lights on. I tied them into the side marker's (long yellow ones on the front sides) wires. I ran them for about 2 days, but I didn't like that I had to run the parking lights too. I didn't find or consider another option to tie in to, so it ended there. And by the way, these lights are solid and bright. Love them

Gabriel Garcia perfect I will def look into those! The issue I ran into was that the White drls would flash along with the amber signals no matter where I tied into. I’ll give those a shot and it sounds to me like the lights I have might be the issue

Yes, I recall your video, from your comments, it sounds like you did everything right. I would also lean towards the lights in that scenario.

Hey T.F.G. I went back and tied my DLRs into my car. Guess what? they flashed. Maybe it's our wiring and how the parking lights and signals interact. I'm going to do some testing next week (out of town this week) but I'll get back to you. Sorry about the bad news. Maybe I never ran them at the same time or simply didn't notice it. Apologies brother. I'll let you know what I find.

Gabriel Garcia this is perfect okay now I might be able to work towards a solution! Glad I didn’t waste any money on my lights! Hahahaha it must be the way voltage is supplied to the signals. I don’t think it’s enough to trigger the switch that shuts off the halo. Thanks for the update I’m looking forward to what else you find!

Awesome and Thank you! I tend to Ramble since this recording stuff really isn't my thing. But thanks for hanging in there. If you have any questions, let me know. I'll do my best to answer or at least point you in the right direction.

Legend. Are you on Insta/Social media for regular updates. Ps. I may take you up on that offer WHEN I get stuck!!

I am yes, find me on FB/Messenger: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100004419093067 Gabriel Garcia Sr.