Відео

El mejor video que he visto….. lo voy a intentar con mi kia sorento 2009…… pero si no me funciona me insuscribo 😊😊😊

Do you need a code reader to reset the lights

Update: The car was totaled on 05/2024, the engine was still working solid and smooth even after the accident and the parts held up to the day it was totaled

Update: The car was totaled on 05/2024, the engine was still working solid and smooth even after the accident and the parts held up to the day it was totaled

He didn't show if he took off the oil pan or not, which would have been interesting to view. Overall good video.

Thank you so much. The dealer wanted $2487(!) to fix the problem (not kidding), which is more than the car is even worth at this point. After watching your video I was able to go to a local Pick N Pull, find a pressure pad sensor with software code 6.1.1 (in a car that actually had the driver's airbag deployed!), remove it, pay $21.57 with tax, and it fixed the problem. The airbag light did not go off on its own, but the "passenger air bag off" light started working, so I figured I was on the right track. I actually pulled more than one pressure pad sensor -- another one with code 6.1.0 from a 2008 Sonata also made the "passenger air bag off" light start working. Next, I went to my usual repair shop (NOT the dealer) and they cleared the airbag codes in 5 minutes and didn't even charge me. It has been several days now and the airbag light is still off and the SRS system would appear to be functioning properly. I can't thank you enough for this great video. I am selling the car now, but fixing the airbag system makes the car much easier to sell, and more importantly may save someone's life.

Nice video ❤

I wonder if there is a way to reflash the rom with the updated software? Also, could tbe problem also be caused by a rear seat paasenger's foot interfering under the front seat........or from objects being shoved under there in such a way that loosens the commection? In that case would simply reconnecting it...and then maybe resealing it tightly with electrical take be an adequate fix?

I have a 06 sonata 3.3. 156k miles all original.i bought the car with 30 k miles and have used synthetic oil and change the oil filter half way at 12 k miles. The chain rattles at start up but goes away once the engine runs. The car still has great power and averages @ 28 mpg. Recently replaced the alternator. That was not fun. Steering pump is whining. I'm so impressed by the engine, kinda like the old GM 3800 but with much more power. Next up are the axcels and upper control arms.

2009 Hyundai sonata V6 would cut out while being driven and then start back up if restarted almost immediately or after a few minutes. Car engine was cutting out, it would jerk and then a few seconds after the jerk the engine went off like it was shut off by the driver, I'd turn it bank on and it would start back up instantly and still repeat fee minutes after, this happens regardless if i was idling in traffic or just have it on ti warm up in my garage. So i got it scanned and it was a crankshaft code, replaced it and the same issue still persisted, prior to this a mechanic replaced the fuel pump and that wasn't it Scanned it again and then it showed some CAMSHAFT code, i think P0011, they were changed and the random engine cut outs stopped, but this came with new problems, hard starting, and the car hesitated to move when i stepped on the gas, also would shake if in Drive D but in traffic (stationary) shaking would stop if engine ran and engaged in park P or i started to move, also the exhaust was shaking, not violently but it was I took it back home feeling unsatisfied but then the next day i restarted it and it wouldn't start back up, what's weird now is i hear an usual sound while cranking the engine, i see the belts roll the accessories but it won't start up, this sound i speak of is around the head of the engine, i have a 2009 V6 Hyundai sonata, I'd appreciate your advice, I'm thinking the timing chain. now I have just the P0335 code and that's why I'm thinking the timing chain as the car has had the cold start rattle for a while, it's got about 120k miles on it..

Do you have part 3? Or 4? I’m going to try this 😮

I believe I have this issue, however now it’s constant even after start up? Does this mean my tensioner has completely failed? If it runs and idles still as it should, but now has a loud constant rattle like a lifter. Has the damage been done internally. If I don’t drive it but have it towed before something catastrophic happens could it still be ok replacing and doing all what you talked about on this video? Thx!

What were the symptoms, consistent rattling like stuck lifter sound? At all rpm’s? Very loud or faint rattle? Thank you!

Thank you for this video as it PROVES THIS PROBLEM CAN BE FIXED EVEN IF NOT COMFORTABLE MESSING WITH TIMING! Incase anyone asks: YES YOU CAN CHANGE JUST THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER AND SAFELY KEEP/RE-USE ORIGINAL TIMING CHAIN/GUIDES (fixing ONLY what is broken) TO MAKE REPAIR MUCH EASIER FOR DIYers! AS LONG AS OIL CHANGES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DONE AND ABSOLUTELY ZERO SLUDGE IS BUILT UP, and verify there's virtually ZERO SCARING on TIMING CHAIN GUIDE, you can safely say, if it ain't broke don't fix it!! Here is how i know: My mom bought a used 06 Sonata in 07 that was a rental car and had HIGH milage for the age .. soon after the engine began to make this sound, but because oil pressure was still high enough everytime she brought it in, the car NEVER made the sound for the techs to hear. Years pass and i became a mechanic, and FOUND OUT it was related to the timing chain tensioner this entire time! But for nearly 10 years now the sound never increased and stopped once oil pressure kicked in on cold start. Since 07 we always did early oil changes and by now car had 150k miles and needed other repairs, soo i traded it to a friend for a large tattoo, and a large list of new parts (A.C, brakes, tires, entire cooling system) and a list problems i made aware of (suspension/front end, severe paint chipping, and timing chain rattle). He slowly fixes it up and drives it until 100+ miles daily for work. Within 2 years the valve covers, timing covers, and oil pan all have developed leaks around 190k miles. Soo since he had to fix the leaks and replace motor mounts, he did them all at once. While apart we both inspected the timing chain /chain guides and they looked excellent, so to save time and money to replace motor mounts we decided to ONLY replace the tensioner leaving the timing chain and guides in place. And yes we had all the mounts out or loosened as well making it EZ to position the engine for max space making it VERY quick and ez (with the electric ratchet and torque adapter of course haha) Fast forward 5 years and the car has nearly 100k miles more than when we fixed the leaks and is running 100% engine and transmission wise! Just from tune-ups, fixing leaks, doing flushes early, and that one timing chain tensioner.. Since 07 i knew this engine and transmission was something special, but i wouldve never thought it would compare with Toyota reliability! The most unbelievable thing is how the car still had OEM ignition coils and only on 3rd set of OEM spark plugs with 275k miles!

Why do people make a hole book about fixing things!😅 lol. This could have been summed up in 3 minutes . Didn't even show the fix!

Can you link us the parts please?

Do you know if all of the passenger occupancy sensor mats and connectors are interchangeable for all 2006-2010 Kia's?

For the record that is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe not a 2006 Santa Fe. It was probably built in 2006 but it was the 2007 model. Just so people wont get confused. I notices the headlight assembly at the start of the video and the 2006 still head the older style headlights.

appreciate the video, does not look any different from any other car waiting for timing kit to come in mail....and off to wrenching sometime i wish I didn't have tools and knowledge to do these jobs gets old fixing cars all the time, could not imagine being a mechanic do this stuff everyday,,, please excuse my excitement 😎 any tips before I get started?

I know you said you got your parts from eBay but from what company? Did the parts hold up or were problems encountered later? I need to do this work soon but want to use good quality parts so I don't do this work a second time!

Hi, I found one that says SW 6.1 only and not the 6.1.1 , would this be the updated version too? Thanks.

Hi thanks can you share the wiring process please

Hi Thanks for your video. Please Can you share the wiring process? I really like to try it.

1) Did you have to remove the oil pan? 2) To charge the tensioner do you have to be concerned with timing marks?

If just changing the tensioner will I have to deal with aligning timing marks?

The information around the software version that you describe at 09:15 was the most important part of my experience. At first, I went to the junkyard and got an older version - of course, didn't work. Went back and found another car with the newer SW version 6.1.1. This time it worked! If I were to do it again, I wouldn't bother removing from junk car unless it was SW 6.1.1. My salvage yard only charged me $10. Thanks again for the education around this code! Liked and subscribed!

Ok this worked like a charm...just cleared my Airbag light by adjusting the plastic connections under the front passenger seat. In my case I didn't need to change anything...it was just a loose connection. Thank you so much.

My 2017 3.3 (123k miles), no acceleration going uphill, coasted/sped up going downhill in drive. Made it to my mechanic, put in Park, plenty of rpms. No trouble light. Left it with mechanic, could not duplicate nothing in computer. Had him do brake job (just in time) and oil & filter change. He found metal in the "oil bucket" and a hole in the valve cover from the timing chain. Found/tightened 2 loose bolts thru valve cover, patched hole. Now no more start up rattle. I'm sure I need tensioners replaced. Anything else?

yu is a diphthong

Hiyundie and kaya

I have a 2006 kia Sorento v6 with the same problem and I can't find the part anywhere. Can I use one from a Hyundai or are there any that is compatible?

I will argue it's not a bad design, but bad metal harness which causes the teeth to strip off the tips of the teeth. The ratchet design is to keep the chain tight while oil pressure is developed at startup and takes over the tensioning job. The chain will stretch and the next set of teeth will keep it tight.

I wonder how much the junk yard would charge for a passenger seat. Less trouble.

Great 👍

Very cool

Jesus, how many times are you going to repeat yourself?

I had the exact symptoms described, went to a junkyard, bought the whole seat and replaced the sensor. The SW version was newer than mine. The Airbag light is still on. I took the car to auto shop and with the proper equipment, they found the code B1448, which is exactly for this issue. Did I buy another faulty sensor or could it be something else? The car is a 2006 Sonata 3.3L, by the way.

Ya hoo! Love you

What was the code?I pulled a 1448 ocs mat defective. This was your issue also?

There was a recall on this.

What about immobiliser, I think ur car doesn't have it

I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata and took it to the dealer because of this issue. Looks like this is part of their 083 recall, my seat cushion was removed along with the OCS mat and was shipped to California for reconfiguring. It took 10 days in total and I was able to drive the car during the duration. I went back to the dealership and refitted the programmed mat sensor and cushion. Initially I was told a diagnostic fee of 145$ would apply and it was also waived off. This is the first time I have taken the old car to the dealer for any service. If you have a 2006 - 2008 Hyundai sonata, do take it to the dealership for free correction.

ICE CREAM MAN ICE CREAM MAN!

In case of the airbag light being on due to the OCS sensor, will airbags deploy in the event of an accident?

i The Module could be bad. Most likely need to replace the Module. You can buy a used one on www.eBay.com or send your Module for repair at www.myairbags.com Here is video ua-cam.com/video/xT5tiT2A78w/v-deo.html

To change the timing chains it is necessary to remove the engine or it can be done with the engine in the car?

How did U apply it!!!!! 1/2 pie video

pretty good video 👍. it helped me understand

Well done would have liked to have say that fuse connection in a bit better detail

What did u use as a wedge to keep the cams from moving