Відео

@@ricks_toys doubt it. It’s GREDDY Exhaust manifold, custom mild steel system & dump. Centre muffler w/ kakimoto canon. The perfect setup. ua-cam.com/video/B8r-OGswhBg/v-deo.htmlsi=Q_jYvBHMoxN5abpB

Might just be the mic, it sounds muffled and diesel like​@@Fine_Performance

@@ricks_toys yeah I listened back to it then. It doesn’t sound like that now cos we retuned the idle & the first part of the map (well my mate did, I just kept it at the right rpm). It was running super rich in the clip.

@@ricks_toys it sounds more like this now irl. My iPhone doesn’t pickup the sound as well as a proper might mic would. This has better gate sound, but I reckon the exhaust note is nicer. It’ll change again once the cams are dialed in & it’s retuned properly. ua-cam.com/video/MHPzlNWg0Ws/v-deo.htmlsi=pLDWFmVOrMMDRJUC

@@Fine_Performance that's more like it, sweet Im gonna grab some when Im in Japan next month. The perfect lobe and not obnoxious

@@ika1041 I drove the car the next day. I would avoid driving in the rain, but as long as you don’t wife the headlight with a cloth, I’m sure it will be fine.

@@AngelFlores-ix6cm VVTi has torque 500rpm early because of the variable intake cam (VVTi). But I reckon the NON VVTi sounds best due to the port design. Also I think VVTi has 9:1 compression pistons so better off throttle response, whereas NON VVTi is 8.5:1.

​@@Fine_PerformanceThank you ,i bought a 1jz biturbo no vvti engine and i wash't sure if i had made a good purchase.

@@AngelFlores-ix6cm yeah, so that’s what my engine is. I just removed the twin turbos & fitted a single turbo & manifold. The twin turbos are good, you just have to watch not running too much boost as they have ceramic coated exhaust wheels. You can get usdm “steel wheel” twins, that can run more boost. Just do a bit of reading. You’ve bought a great engine!

How do u remove the turbos together with the mannifold? If is possible.

@@manny1782 Ive no idea, do you mean the twins? My engine came without the factory turbos. So I’ve only ever run the single Garrett & trust manifold.

@@Lplaterwrx thank you 🙏 I was a going to go with gold or gunmetal centre, but I thought I’d choose a centre colour that a Japanese person might run. They always have a certain kind of style.

www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=78110-33010&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on

@@karolisskudra1681 if it’s 8” crown wheel & pinion, you could fit the internals into an x81 diff housing. But I’d try find a trd clutch center or get a Cusco/ OS Giken clutch lsd. If it’s 7.5” cw you can use an altezza diff internals.

@@KyroJZ 45mm turbo smart gen iv

@@KyroJZ reason it flutters like that is because I have it on closed loop vs my pedal position, so as I change the throttle position, the boost target changes. So the ecu tries to modulate the gate to achieve the current boost target.

@@Fine_Performance oh yeah sick, I’m running the same gate. Soon to be driven. Wonder what it’s going to sound like

@@KyroJZ they sound good. But it also depends on the shape of your screamer. Mine is in an S shape to clear the rack. A lot of guys’ are straight & just point to the ground.

@@josephc2294 not hey man spec. Just standard DG5, but I got custom 24kg front & 6kg rear. I have +25mm lcas. Ordered through streeter corp. not rhd

@@Fine_Performance appreciate the info. I went for standard DG5 with 24kg front & 8kg rear. I’ve standard lcas.. only Cusco adjustable top cambers arms. Plan to get extended lcas in the future. Can’t wait to try the DG5 !

@@josephc2294 you’ll be stoked & 8kg is probably better for a street car. Once you go extended lca, shorten the uprights & ditch the adjustable fuca. Unless you need them for agressive wheels/ Fitment. But you will be happy with the Coilovers. Let me know, I can check where I have them setup damper wise. Think the front is either 4 or 6 clicks off fully hard & the rears are 10-12 off fully hard.

@@Fine_Performance yeah my mate is running 24/6, but he’s got big power and n style rear archers. Mine is relatively standard atm engine wise, although I do plan on a TD06 25G in the near future so 8kg rear would probably suit me better. Yeah I won’t be going for an overly aggressive front so fuca will not be needed. I only ordered them last night so hopefully should have them in the car by the end of the month and I’ll let you know, if your damper setup is good I’ll go with that.

@@josephc2294 it corrects the geometry when you lower the car. Short uprights & rcas prevent bump steer (your car pulling to one side when you go over a bump). Also, the fuca hit the shock towers & pop the ball joints out.

@@Lplaterwrx I ended up running VF34 on this car. Spools better but doesn’t sound as good. The other car has a Bloucb dominator XTR 1.5 7cm.

@@Fine_Performance damn how does the blouch go, been wanting to grab one of them for my bugeye

@@Lplaterwrx dunno yet, I’m still building the car. It’s similar to a garret Gtx3071 I think. I’ve got a GT3076 on my jzx90 & that rips. See a lot of these turbos are different eras, so hard to compare. TD05 is oldest, so prolly sounds the coolest, but least performance. GT30 is 10 year old tech. Vf34 is prolly 6-8 years old? (Definitely newer than vf22 or 23 etc). Then Blouch is fairly new. Only thing newer would be a G series, or something by BW or precision (or based of that newer tech ie Grimmspeed TD05 frame with newer compressor/ turbine tech). The newer the turbo tech makes more power @ less psi, has higher hp overall & generally spool quicker.

@@ronaldtartaglia4459 I was looking at it as I put my EVIL away. It definitely is one of my favourites.

2017 I think?

Hey man no worries. Hopefully all the info is there that you need!

“Just connected”. Not “disconnected”. Ie: no boost controller between the wastegate & the compressor housing.

@@Fine_Performance The way you worded it was scary talk , now that makes sense.

Cheers :) skirts are JZX100 & the rear pods (spats) are mkii JZX90 pods. They are extremely hard to find.

Cool looks really good kinda like a OEM Aero kit. Which jzx100 are they from look like chaser?

@@ciaranfox3765 yeah, essentially it is oem aero. Just the jzx90 skirts are rare & the pods are also. Chaser/ mark ii 100 side skirts are the same as one another I believe. The 90 skirts don’t look as good tbh if can even find them.

Yeah I have both GD coils & some R35 (need adapter kit). My 99 car has coil on plug, it’s a bit trickier to wire up on this car, but I’ll probably just make a fresh ignition loom from the ecu.

@@Fine_PerformanceI can give you a spare gd wrx loom that Has coil plugs and wiring if you want, already had a few plugs taken off but still good

The only thing getting this brake dust off was sandpaper!

Yeah, front Mount intercooler and no blow off valve

@@Fine_Performance ever try this with a TMIC? I'm trying to keep mine close to stock setup with just a bigger g turbo! Also by no BOV u kept the recirc or got rid of that too?

@@tradesauce-official recirc is the blow off valve. But no, I’ve not ever owned a wrx with top mount. Front mount reduces intake temps significantly better than top mount. Heaps of places have done tests.

@@Fine_Performance thanks and over here we call recirc that and Bov blowoff. But I hear ya. Also, I bet, about the temp thing. I'm just trying to keep it a little more stockish and not blow the motor. Even though it's built can't trust it. Not familiar with this platform yet. Thanks for the info

@@tradesauce-official check your oil once a month. Always use premium fuel. Don’t run more than 18 psi for long periods of time. Change your oil at least twice a year. Use good quality oil (don’t need the most expensive, but don’t buy the cheapest). Don’t thrash it too much essentially, especially cornering hard.

You want to see the storage. This is a charity Bikeshop here in Australia. We are very lucky we get donated hundreds and hundreds of bikes that we fix up and then the money goes to feed homeless and help run a drug rehabilitation.

It certainly felt like it wanted to keep going. 16psi kinda felt like it was only just getting into boost. Unfortunately on my daily, I did get have the fuel system (injectors & pump) to support much more than 18psi. Nothing worse than leaning out an engine under high boost.

@@Fine_Performance well the air is there when you get the fuel support…

@@user-nf3oq2ge3g I’m running a Vf34 & if I were to run 22psi, the stock WRX engine is only going to last so long with the HP that would produce. Maybe an sti engine, but above 270-280HP on WRX engine you’re asking for trouble.

Oh thanks man. The diesel conversion ones are pretty embarrassing 🤣. But I try my best to share stuff I pick up along the way. All the JZX forums are closed down now & info was pretty scarce when they were around.

@@Fine_Performance Yeah it's a shame they're closed down man, especially since it was a great place for concentrated info. and don't even mention it these videos are great. Also have to replace my tie rod ends and tie rods too and they're clearly not jzx or any of the ones you mentioned so your video is still really helpful for me too.

@@OddClancy send me some photos on instagram. It’s fine_performance. There’s another style that I didn’t list that people use that are from a Honda stream. They are generally for 35 mm extended Lcas. I don’t quite know what rack ends they use though to get the right length. There was a right up in a Japanese magazine somewhere I had read. It was using reverse brand knuckles & +35 mm lca.

@@OddClancy oh actually now that I think of it you’ve probably got JZX100 ones which I don’t have pictured in that video. Do they look like this: images.app.goo.gl/MvyDhHtc8LjjyJNN6

@@Fine_Performance man this just keeps getting deeper as I go. I've really got no clue if I've got extended lcas or what these tie rod ends are from in any fashion Ive only just paid attention to it as my lower ball joint and tie rod ends boots are ruined on the left side. I sent out a request on insta mate. Very much appreciated

No idea. I wasn’t revving the crap out of it as the was a school nearby.

@@Fine_Performance Hah fair enough! What turbo was the best overall?

@@class2instructor32 for sound (ie chatter), the td05. For performance, the VF34. The VF23 & 28 were good, but the VF34 has a higher HP potential. The 97 WRX w/ STi engine I’m building now has a Blouch Dominator XTR 1.5 7cm. It’s similar size to the TD05-20G but much more modern design, so greater HP, sooner spool & is ball bearing. That should be pretty good I’m hoping.

@@Fine_Performance wicked, I've got a jdm forester Sti with a td04, Been stock for ever, just got a 3" cat back, just gotta get a downpipe injectors & fuel pump (& a tune I use project Lambda Tune.)

@@class2instructor32 gotcha, well a used VF34 is a great upgrade. Just check the bearing for excessive in-out play. Most turbos have a little bit after a while, but just nothing excessive.

Do you mean convert to coil on plug? That’s the plan…. Using R35 GTR coils & adapter kit. The wiring is sitting on the manifold is so I can look how to run the wiring.

@@Fine_Performance ye , but GTR ? It's very simple to remove this cabels and make good one , u need 4 coil with her cabels and that't it u can make it 30 min , you will never have missfire problem i have it 🤘

@@Nick2126 I have a set of diamond GD coils, I was going to go with them. But R35 I have on my 1JZ & they are very powerful spark. PRP OR TAARKS makes an adapter kit & yeah, I’ll make my own harness.

What sort of info are you after? Tbh I’m not sure I’ll be able to give correct info, for example the head gasket, my machinist calculated we needed the EJ207 one, but my heads must have been machined multiple times as I had to slot my manifold holes to get it bolted on properly.

Basically just everything u had to do to get the ej207 running the v3 setup just the basics like what u had to swap over ect ect

86 uses completely different style of axle. You can use 86 diff in jzx100 with either new front bushes (what I did), or using the 86 front bolts. Then either tourer v/ turbo open stubs or tourer v / turbo torsen stubs but you may have to shorten one as apparently they have a long & a short spline, which doesn’t fit due to the extra length of the spline. You have to then use jzx axles. There are options of using non turbo smaller 6 bolt pcd axles as I did, but the stubs from 8” diff to smaller 6 bolt pcd, are very hard to find.

Ok. I have a n/a so I was looking to upgrade the axles when I add more power. Might just go with the is300 diff/axles

@@connordalby9777 a guy in Australia had the 4 bolt axles behind a v8 for drift in a jzx90 & he didn’t break any

So the ones I used were advertised as “is300” - big spline for turbo/8” diff w/ smaller 6 bolt PCD. It’s tricky cos since making this vid, we found there are 2 types of the smaller 6 bolt pcd axles. Identical, but the bolt pcd is different & my mate reckons the thread pitch was different too.

Oh man, not sure if grimmspeed gaskets are any better than factory. But once I linished my flanges - BOOM. Fixed. I used factory gaskets. But even the slightest bit of warp or low spot caused a leak. Take the time & linish it really nice & flat (both surfaces if it’s 2 flanges).

The turbo is fine 🤷🏼‍♂️. Have you ever actually killed a turbo?

Ok so I’m running 24kg front & 6kg rear. The reason for this is, the front lcas are +25mm long so that causes the lca to have a greater leverage ratio. If I was on normal Length lca I might only run 20kg. The rear is super soft so that car squats. It’s basically what daigo Saito runs for his drift setup. If I was setting a up a stock street car, you might only want 20 or 18kg front & 8 or 10kg rear. The front is super rigid with my front setup & really soft in the rear. The DG5 are valved for the Spring rates & so the damper controls the car really well. The front is set 4 clicks off full hard & the rear is 8 clicks off full hard. The car still follows the road, it’s not just rock solid. When you bounce the car it goes down & comes back up, & does not oscillate (continue to bounce up & down). Does that help?

@@Fine_Performance it does help. Thank you

@@BySixa I was worried 24kg would be way too hard & 6kg way too soft, but honestly it’s perfect if you want good handling or perfect for drift (which I’ll do once I’ve got a clutch lsd rather than torsen & knuckles etc). You can point the car & it steers where you want. One thing I’ll note is, when I had no sway bar because my car was originally LX90 (diesel), the rear had too much body roll. But now with a stock tourer V sway bar it’s perfect. Stiffer sway bars may even be better, but not super necessary. If you want to see a car with the same setup Daigo’s black jzx100 or a guy in Australia called Michael ginn aka dorjunkie. I got a lot of setup info from him. Also running shortened uprights with stock FUCA rather than adjustable FUCA & regular uprights, takes away any bump steer.

We cut about a 2” piece of tube, vertically. Then relieved the killer B pipe & welded the piece into the killer B pipe. I wouldnt Reccomend it, id suggest going with a remote reservoir style power steering setup from a later model. Plus I had to do a lot of filing of the manifold to fit it also.

@@Fine_Performance Other then the power steering resevour it fit ok ish?

@@Nays33 it’s not designed for this early of a manifold. I had to cut some of the threaded bosses & really bend the breather & fuel rails out of the way. I would t Reccomend doing what i did & cutting part out as it made the pipe slightly narrower. In all honesty, it didn’t really add that much to the sound. The intake noise probably sounded better with a quality silicon pipe. The flutter or dose of the turbo was a little bit better but it’s not worth the effort. I got it for cheap so I thought I’d try. It would be easy to muck something up & it took a lot of work to make it fit.

@@Fine_Performance do you have an Instagram I could follow and see what you mean by?

My pleasure, glad I could help!

What’s your issues man? I can give you some things to check as I did all this to mine & found out it had too short of a dipstick! So the gearbox was getting overfilled.

@@Fine_Performance using about 600ml of oil every 2,000km. Often sits un driven for months at a time

Loosing a little coolant as well

@@fujitsubo3323 pcv valve. Get a new genuine one (not an aftermarket one, they don’t seal). Even if the existing one rattles & seals, it might not during engine operation). Also look for cracks in pcv/ breather hoses.

@@fujitsubo3323 head gasket then. 100%.

Spec R

I have a custom loom so I can’t tell you. Just Google it.