Відео

@nebhosspin1252 its set to volts. Most modern vehicles starting system operate on 12volts.

@@joeblow5863 can't be sure, but it's likely a similar process.

@bobjiorno9046 this was a customers car, and yes it had failed.

@@bobjiorno9046 the wires are probably in the way! Make sure there are no wires draping over.

It measures the air pressure and sends said information back to the ECU to regulate boost and fueling.

Sounds like you have a break in that 5v wire and the 12v wire at the same spot or at the connector.

@@Bronze_T_Garage Hi thanks for your response would a car electrician be able to rewire to fix this issue? Sorry by break do you mean short?

@JoseSandoval-ic5xe yes, a short is simply when two wires are touching. I say a break in the wire to identify that likely the plastic lining over the wire has broken. You can take it to just about any mechanic for a fix. Just let them know your findings.

@@Bronze_T_Garage Awesome thank you so much for your help.

@@JoseSandoval-ic5xe anytime! Thanks for asking!

@@5tacosdelenguacontodo glad it helped! You're welcome!

Thank you!

Unfortunately, I don't have possession of that vehicle, I am also unsure of the g37.

You might have a slightly different build. Go with the part it suggests.

Should be in the box located near the shock tower under the hood.

Look for the "ignition relay"

Still not fixed, turn the switch on tested all plugs and it gives same reading as you did. When ignition is on, there is one fuse called A/F it’s 20 there is no power to it. And crankshaft position sensor, I test it is working. Not really sure what’s the issue. I did point crankshaft pulley pin point to the 0 line twice still not firing, only starter turns. Do I need to keep pointing the pulley to 0 mark and try

Could be, but you likely need to check for boost leaks.

Yes, you need to replace the boost sensor.

Buddy, from the sound of it you've had someone in your ear giving you bad info. First thing to check is to make sure you have spark, then you need to make sure you have fuel, and then if you're not getting air... well that's just unusual. Lol

@@Bronze_T_Garage no I have just checked them myself and at first the car didn’t have that problem it was misfiring when I would get up to 40mph so that’s how I found that out and fixed what I fixed than stop starting after I put gas in the car. Is a spark plug tester good ? In for fuel a fuel pressure gauge is good ? Idk how to test for air in the system lol

@priinceanthonykoldd7071 start by testing for spark, and also ensure that your plug wires are in the right spots, and that your spark plugs are tightened down. Examine your spark plugs and check to see their condition. Google, "how to diagnose a spark plug."

Good question, yes that is a possibility, however, I am willing to bet its the map sensor located on the intake manifold. Very similar sensors and they both go bad around the same time.

No need to remove the dash friend! And you're very welcome!

@@Bronze_T_Garage thank you!!

@@FC-kv7sp any time!

Yes, very much so.

Pull the plug to see if you are running lean or running rich.

Good question; yes just about anything on the a/c system can leak. The reason you get high pressure on one side is likely because there is not enough pressure over all for the system to balance out. I have seen this a lot. The system cannot balance out until the pressure is within a certain margin of the correct pressure. If you are unsure of the shops diag, I recommend you take it for a second opinion.

Having this exact problem right now. End up figuring out what it was?

Glad I could be of assistance!

No danger, my friend.

You sure can. It will just read the opposite. For instance, +12 volts will read -12 volts.

@@Bronze_T_Garage Oh OK. Thank you.

Do you have a video on how to check voltage or resistance in the transmission wire connector for Toyota?

I do not, but I can make one soon enough. All you really need to do is look up a schematic and it should tell you. If not, then you can locate the power and ground pretty easy, the same way I show with these connectors.@@juliustay2541

First, I would like you to switch cylinder 1 coil with another. It is possible that the new coil is having issues or is damaged. Let me know if that changes anything. Second, did you see any oil in or on the tube or spark plug when you pulled the coil? Third, are you getting any other codes?

@@Bronze_T_Garage i switched the coil to diff cylinder and still cylinder one misfire, no oil on spark plugs. the change i found since started having this issue is the car on cold start revs on lower rpm 700 all the time don' t know if it is related in any way, pcv valve is new, compression test showed normal readings still i need to try it while is engine is cold. i am confused about this

@@Bronze_T_Garage other codes are P0300 and P0301

did the test as you instructed in the video and readings came out the same on all coil connectors

the readings were: around 12 V on 3 pins and on one pin 0.2 thats for all coil connectors

Yes, but also a bad spark plug can cause it. What vehicle is it on? And do you see oil in the hole when you swap it out?

Yes, put the car in on mode without cranking it. Should be able to use the windshield wipers if the key is on mode, it is the second click.

@@David-qw2iv what's your battery voltage?

@@David-qw2iv I want you to see if you have ground at the starter bolt and ground at the end of the ground wire. Ensure that it is a strong ground by checking the voltage through it.

Yes, very much so! I encourage you to check your spark plugs first. Type into google "What does a healthy spark plug look like?" If it isn't a healthy spark plug, start there. If your spark plug is good, I recommend swapping the coil that is on the misfiring cylinder with another cylinder that is not misfiring. This will tell you if it is the coil. If it is not the coil, then you need to check the wiring on the plugs and do what I did in this video.

@@Bronze_T_Garage ive changed both spark plugs and coils and changing first coil i saw broken connector, some people said they could cause misfire too

@@augustinasnavickas5268 sounds to me like that is exactly what your issue is! Let me know when you are able to fix!

@@Bronze_T_Garage i will, thanks for the video

@augustinasnavickas5268 I'm glad I could help!

You should have a constant ground unless you have an antique vehicle. Make sure you pay attention to the voltmeter and ensure your probes are installed correctly. It could be that you are reading it backwards... it could also be that something is wired backwards.

That code is likely a vacuum leak/Boost leak. Check your hoses and your vacuum lines running from your turbo.

@@Bronze_T_Garage yes sir I think it’s the boost pressure solenoid

@@Bronze_T_Garage i don’t know what lines to even be looking at honestly

@@izraeldiaz7587 look up the year make and model and type in Boost vacuum lines and boost routing hoses.

You are so very welcome!

I would start with the one I show first, just as a cost-effective measure.

@@Bronze_T_Garage thank you for the quick response I did the intake manifold side already and it will still pop a code (p0236) but not as frequent I’m thinking about getting the intercooler side soon

@@burgash0t914 yea, this specific one I was working on did that about 2months apart.

Thank you so much im getting it today honestly 🤣 im to curious

@@burgash0t914 let me know how it goes! I'm curious too

If you're having trouble reinstalling, it's likely that the power cords are in the way.

It was throwing code P0236 and having performance issues.

The hard metal coolant line? The metal line I use a separator tool or a screw driver to separate and then just slightly bend out of the way.

😆 😆 😆

I just looked at the style and location. It looks to be very similar, if not exact.

Sure, what is your question?

Sounds like you're getting hung up on something, make sure you don't have a jammed wire in there. It comes straight down during removal.

@@Bronze_T_Garagethanks bro, for some reason i cant get it back in, do u got full video on how u got it back in?

@adairobinson8979 That's pretty much all the footage I have, we can video chat if you want though. Do you have instagram?

That's insane! I've seen some rough stuff, but that's super rough. How much is that running you $?$?

@Bronze T Garage considering I got all new ac parts lines, condesor, condesor switch etc. probably like 400 bucks. I got the compressor for free. and I got all of my parts from rock auto besides the new pipe that goes to low pressure side from expansion valve and the ac switch from the dealer.

@@willhawkins284 Well, I'd say you saved at least $1600

​@Bronze_T_Garage update. the ac compressor I got was wrong. ECV compressor and I needed a non ECV compressor. Bought a reman on ebay for 400. AC Was blowing cold for a few days. Had a leak, expansion valve is leaking. I tore back into the dash today again. Sucks working down there. And my car is a HR swap drift car lol. Hopefully Ill have good ac for next summer. I also need a new blend door actuator for passenger side.

Was the G37 the same procedure as it is on a g35. And what year. I’m looking at a 2011 that I may have to do an evaporator on. Thanks

Yes it was basically the same on a 2008 g37S just be careful with electric motors at the 6:49 mark. My mistake was not taking a picture of the positioning

How did you move the lines out of the way to pull out the evaporator l?

@dominiquerolle1734 did you get it yet? Sorry I just saw this comment

@@Bronze_T_Garage I did thx

Yes sir, hope it was helpful!

You're very welcome. Please let me know if you have any questions, I will be releasing more informative videos later on. Thanks for the feedback!

@@Bronze_T_Garage keep up the good work 👍

I second this🫡thank you