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@@dozer101308 yea that good ole salt will make a job ten times harder:( luckily we don’t have to deal with that down here. The crazy prices of everything now-a-days is why we are repairing and not replacing. Thanks for the comments!

@@litoornelas6409 the WIX WL10010 oil filter.

@@blakespower lol, some tools and heavy lifting required.

@@locopoko this was performed on a 2012 Chevy traverse. With all the rear seats removed it is very spacious back there.

@@MarleeHinkle-t2x it’s just a few bolts that hold them in as well. I actually took all the seats out to perform a deep cleaning on the carpet. Front seats are the hardest, especially if the wiring recall was performed where they soldered the wires together. Some cutting and splicing has to be done.

@@ECF_Scoot9961 I’m not sure, but I don’t see why it would not be possible. I’m sure you would have to replace the carpet and rugs to cover the exposed center section though.

@@chriszurita7396 bahahah, it’s not a bad job, just a little tedious. You got this!!!

@@shawngosciminski9300 it’s not that bad, just a little time consuming. The dealer wanted over 2K for this repair last year, thats why we chose to replace it at home. Whatever direction you choose, I hope it goes well:)

@@dozer101308 sorry you are having the same issue, but super glad the video helps out. Thank you for the support!!!

@@SturkieHands Do you know why removing the AWD fuse makes it stop? That seems like the AWD system is telling the clutch to engage when it shouldn't be and the clutch works. Or is there a short inside the clutch causing it to activate when it shouldn't. In that case there would have to be a relay inside acting up. I'm just trying to understand this more before I replace mine. I didn't know if you happened to know more about it.

@ I don’t know all the workings of the system, but I think it is an electrical failure inside the clutch module assembly. That’s the reason pulling the fuse works, the signal to engage the AWD clutch module is no more and you are only utilizing the front wheels for power. Essentially taking the power to the rear wheels power out of operation.

@@AmazingGlareLLC it sounds like you definitely have a rear end issue. It could possibly be the clutch module like mine. I had mine troubleshot by a local repair shop and opted to repair it myself in this video. I would start with a rear end fluid change and go from there. Good luck!!!

@@justoenamigo awesome, glad the video helped out. You’ll have to let me know how the Baxter oil adapter works out. I’ve seen very mixed reviews on that setup. I do hate the sound of the dry startups, a little scary!.!.

@@texasrubicon392 I guess jeep did a little over engineering:(

What does removing the abs fuse have to do with the AWD?

@@htown3707 if you remove the AWD fuse, it stays in front wheel drive only and the rear wheels spin freely. EDIT: I didn't notice that it says ABS until your reply. It was either a mistake on my part or autocorrect, idk. I meant the 15A AWD fuse.

@@IrrationalBstrd not seeing 15A

@@IrrationalBstrd 2011 traverse

@@htown3707 mine is 2017, but it's located in the engine bay fuse box. Should be the same. The DIC will give you a message about Servicing the AWD system when you remove it, but it's better than the rear wheels dragging everytime I turn. After I replace the clutch pack electric motor thingy, I'll test it to make sure it works and then probably just remove the fuse until we get rid of it, just to avoid wear on it.

@@justoenamigo I purchased it off line. I can’t remember the site, but it claimed to be made in America.

@@AiranElAztek luckily It is the original Mikado steering wheel. Thanks for checking the video out. I can’t wait to get mine on the road as a daily driver. I have seen some used parts on eBay and various website’s.

@@SturkieHands Oh,mine has to be the regular Luv,it has no emblems at all,and the steering wheel is really diferent compared with yours.since i got the truck,i started looking for instagram profiles and youtube channels where i could get some upgrades,since i have to replace a lot of things on it,seat has to be replaced,headlights,tail lights and side marker lights,the speedometer,being the most important things by now.Engine transmission,clutch and brakes are first things i have been working on succesfully.Keep posting videos about your little truck and im sure there will be a lot of people really interested on watching them,plus,i think the way you speak is simple,clear and everything gets clear👏👏👏👏👍👍👍

@@StarkeEnterprises they say it is best to put it back on the way it was removed due to balancing. If you were installing a new one it does not matter. In my opinion if the one you removed is truly balanced, it should not make a difference.

​@@SturkieHands looks like I'll find out! Thanks for the quick reply!

I screwed up the wiring harness clip going into the differential control module. 😞 I called my local GMC dealer, and they can get the whole harness for $300. I can't get just the pigtail. FYI to anyone who does the same thing!

@@StarkeEnterprises oh no, sorry to hear that happened.

@@kmv6221 I put the part numbers in the description of the video. I’ve heard it is a hard to get part at the moment.

I purchased ours on Ebay. PN# 84163671 is the Assembly for the 2012 model and there are some available for purchase on Ebay (remanufactured and new). Don't forget to order the seals and gaskets too, also in the video description. Hope this information helps.

@@lauraspackman7640 not that I can see. I’m pretty certain it is a complete assembly (tracks and seat).

@@mujahidislam8303 I’m not well versed with the Captiva model, but it sounds like you are having a similar issue. It could be your AWD clutch assembly like mine or it could be an electrical issue with the module itself. I would recommend connecting with a good shop that can connect to your system and troubleshoot. I took mine in for troubleshooting before replacing ours, I did not want to just throw parts at it with guesses.

@SturkieHands I have my car checked at an authorized Chevrolet service center. We did everything, but no errors were showing up on the system. When you remove the drive shaft, it runs smoothly, as if the problem was never there. Similarly, you put the shaft back and disconnect any tires abs censor, and the moment it shows an error on the odometer, the problem vanishes away. You put the abs censor back on the problem is back.

@@mujahidislam8303 oh my. I do wish I had a solution or repair path for you, but unfortunately I don’t. I do hope you find a solution.

@@SturkieHands Thank you for your time and reverting. Chevy mechanic has recommended to open the rear differential and check if somethings is wrong or broken. Hope they find the issue so I can breat a sign of relief. Because even a small turning it is very irritating behind the wheel and for passengers.

@@SturkieHands problem found, It is the module present inside the rear slip differential. It has gone bad from inside. Tried changing of a different car and drove and the problem vanishes.

Yes, hopefully I did the memory justice.

@@jacobkey6268 sorry to hear you are having the same issue but I’m glad the video is helping out. Good luck on the repair!!! Ours is so much nicer to drive without that grinding sound and feeling.

@@Flowerchild778 you are very welcome, hope it helps you out:)

@@ForrestGump-nl1jl sorry to hear about your loss of oil. Hard to say what you need for your repair. I would suggest finding the failure, or failures and fix from there.

@@LuvTruckGarage thank you. It is slow going at the moment, seems like everything else is breaking and jumping to the top of the honey do list!!!

@@jaysmokey it was a steady noise when turning at low speeds only.

@@SturkieHands ugh. Sounds like an issue that just developed with my 14 in the past week or so. This is like a soft chatter nor really a grinding though.

@@jaysmokey it might be a good idea to check your rear differential fluid and possibly change it if needed. Good starting point if anything.

@@SturkieHands definitely going to start there, like the other guys commented the part is not available at this point. Haven't tried a dealer yet but everywhere online doesn't have one.

@@jamesoberg8809 10-4, I’m sure it is still great quality. Our repair has been holding strong!!!

Anyway, it's better than plastic.

@@attikus881 I did not even think about taking a picture of the inside with them removed, sorry. It does open the space up a lot with them removed. I actually took all the seats out to do a deep cleaning of the carpet. Our kids pretty much grew up with this traverse for the past 11 years. They lefts lots of goodies embedded on, under, and in the carpet!!!

I was thinking about taking the single seat out to get easy access to the back. The kids usually just climb over the seat rather than folding it down because it doesn't fold down right

@@Jake-li7ih 10-4 or you could take it out and possibly fix it. We use ours when our kids invite their friends on long trips. I was lucky enough to be able to repair ours with an easy fix. (Its on a different video).

11 years, I think that means 1st gen?​@@SturkieHands

@@jasonsharpbucks 2012 model.

@@dariuskompas1052 that does not sound like the same issue we had. This failure was a constant grinding noise versus your bang. Might be good to visually check from your driveline to your rear hubs. Just to check for anything out of the norm that could make contact with something it should not. Inspect your rear CV boots closely, assuming you have the AWD model.

Thank You so much for the reply, yes it's an AWD model. Everything looks normal and loud bang not coming every time I turn and it looks like only when one wheel spins faster than the other one. Also it happens when turning both left and right

I have same problem. Did you ever get it fixed?

Hey, I didn't fix it but I found AWD breaker and remove it, it's super easy to find and what it does it turn off rear differential and You got FWD car, no more banging etc and saves fuel too

@dariuskompas1052 okay thanks. I'll try it tonight and at least eliminate the rear end itself. If my noise goes away I'd say it's safe to assume that I have the same issue as the author of the video. Thanks again

@@jimlayhey1965 10-4. With everything I’ve read on the failure, I just wanted to be sure on the repair and go with the metal style.

@@lisafuller8165 awesome to hear the video was helpful. I love learning new things too!!! Yea, my daughter loves adding her fit checks:)

@@steveramsey4999 I am glad you stuck with it and got the job done. Doing the job ourselves saves so much money and we get to learn new and exciting things throughout the whole process. It is also great to hear the video helped you out. Thank you so much for your support.

@@steveramsey4999 that is great news. Glad you found a tool to get the job done!

@@steveramsey4999 oh no, I hate to hear that. Mine came off relatively easy with a small hooked pick.

@SturkieHands yea I've tried that and all my tricks mostly I'm worried of the expenses if I break one or more. And if I can't get the 3 easy ones what about the harder ones. Oh well worth the try

@@steveramsey4999 I could not find a drain location other than the bottom radiator hoses. If you are careful and have a large enough drain pan, you can disconnect the bottom radiator hose and let it fully drain. I disconnected the hose but did not let it drain fully like I should have.

@@SturkieHands thanks for that.

I'm half way done so it's the perfect time to get this. As I'm almost down to the cooler

@@steveramsey4999 good deal. Hope everything goes smoothly for you.

Thank you. Parts used ACDelco Clutch Pack PN# 84163671 Shaft Seal PN# 15839527 Shaft E-Clip PN# 19132950 Dif Pinion Seal PN# 711063 Rear Axle Gasket PN# 15839531

thank you. unfortunately, the clutch pack is unavailable. no one has it..😕

i have a gmc acadia denali and the pulley also isn’t working to fold down. we’re trying to remove the seat in order to fix it however we’re not sure how to remove the seat ! please upload a video or guide with steps please :)

Start By removing the rear and middle floor mats. You can then lift all the plastic seat track covers (no screws or bolts for the covers). Once the covers are removed you should have full access to the seat bolts. The bolts are normally put in with some strong thread locker, so it will take some force to remove them. With the bolts removed, you can now lift either seat out.

@@SturkieHandsthank you so much ! so the green mechanism for ours is broken! what is the whole part name we should buy to switch it out

Looks like they call that whole assembly with the cable “Rear seat back stowage latch actuator PN# 22851851”. Ebony.

@@SturkieHands is there anyway you can give a tutorial on seat removal :( we cannot find the part and are just thinking of replacing the seat entirely

I purchased everything except the differential fluid from EBay. All brand new. I put the part numbers in the video’s description if you need them. Mine is a 2012, so you will need to verify they will work for the 2017.

@@SturkieHands Thanks. Just so I'm fishing in the right pond, what were the symptoms that had you take yours for diagnosis?

@@jackiemccool583 when turning left or right at low speeds, a grinding noise was heard from the rear end (tires). Almost like a locked rear differential where both rear tires turn at the same speed versus slipping like they should during a turn.

@@SturkieHands Thanks. Talked to a chevy dealer. That part, at least for the 2017, is "unobtainium" right now. And its between $1600 and $1800. 🙁

@@jackiemccool583 Oh wow, that is crazy!!

When turning at low speed, a loud grinding noise came from the rear end. Like positive traction or a live axle on a go kart.

Thank you. I hope it helps out!

It is the AWD clutch assembly that distributes power to the rear wheels depending on the demand.

I saw the original location bracket for sale,but it looked like it would sit the alt to low and would not clear the fender well. It did hurt a little cutting that bracket because it did look expensive. I’ve been looking at the high mount ac brackets for the passenger side to run off the main serpentine belt, but still working out all the details on that. The ac original location definitely won’t have clearance on this tightly fitted beast.!.!

From start to finish, I would say a good three hours.

Oh yea. What does that consist of? I will have to research that.

I just did a little digging on that oil system. I like that idea and will most likely get one on order and installed. I have never liked the sound of this jeep starting, such a hard dry starting sound.

I have one already. I asked Baxter and they said it's also compatible with the dorman

Thank you. Hope your repair goes smoothly!

That’s no good at all. I’ve read the stock ball joints have a plastic bushing in side and that is not going to stand up to any type of stress at all. Are you thinking of upgrading yours?

@@SturkieHands Did it fix your wobble? I’m not happy with the way Jeep handles this issue. Any other company would fix it. So, yes if I decide to keep this truck I’ll probably upgrade the ball joints and the drag link, because I want a permanent fix.

Yes this was the fix. No more wobble wobble and the steering does not wonder like before, Much tighter. Hope you get your fixed soon, I know how scary and frustrating this issue is and can be.

Hope it helps you out. Yes, it would be a great time to change the spark plugs too. With videoing and all about six hours. if I weren’t videoing it probably would have been around four hours.

@@SturkieHands any leaks since changing it?

@@correfe nope, everything is good and dry. I had my doubts, but I am very happy with the diagnosis and repair. The doorman aluminum replacement is definitely the way to go.!.!

@@SturkieHands Good job. Just picked up a used 2021 Gladiator with only 10k miles on it and am thinking about doing this early on. I have been reading about the Pentastar cam ticking and not sure what's normal. My engine sounds like yours, but perhaps not as loud even. Do you feel you have the ticking timebomb going on or is this just your normal valve train noise?

@@Bizill75 I think it is just the normal valve train noise, I hope so anyways!!! Yea, it would not be a bad idea to get it knocked out before it fails.