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Glad it was helpful!

Yeah, that is exactly what we did. Essentially you will level the runways on ladders/locks first, then, adjust cables so that, as it rises, it raises as level as possible and the locks engage almost simultaneously on the way up. In my case, I have an small incline, so as it rests on the floor, the front bottoms out first before the back does as it comes back down.

@@mannysmaintenancegarage980 I may be similar. My floor slopes about 1/4” per foot so over the length of the lift it’s probably almost 3”. I’m hoping I can lower the front ladders slightly, raise the rear ladders and then adjust the cables from There. I need to keep the rear of the lift as low as possible on the ground to get my Shelby up. Bendpak’s instructions don’t really give details on how to adjust so I’m going to wing it I guess

@@JP-ec8fe yeah, mine is almost exactly the same. When done, the ramps will hang about an inch off the ground but give when you drive on. I think the max incline allowed is about 3 inches but, yeah, the level will be your best friend on it. I almost maxed out on the slack/adjustment on ladders and cables to achieve a perfect level. So expect that. I've had multiple trucks and cars on it with no issue. Best of luck on your build. I recommend the aluminum raps. They are much easier to remove, are longer, and might be friendlier on that Shelby. Those are what I always use, but I ordered both. Don't be surprised when only the back lifts, on operation, first. The front will lift as soon as it starts to level and raise together and level through the rest.

@@mannysmaintenancegarage980 thanks this is helpful. I don’t have the ladders perfectly level but close. I lowered the front ladders to where there is about 5/8 thread showing above the nut and the ladder itself is about 3/16” off of the base plate. The rear ladders I raised up and have about 2.25” of thread above the nut. I’m putting hydraulic fluid in it tonight so all the cables still have a ton of slack so I haven’t gotten to that part yet. I’m starting with about 3-4 threads visible above the nuts on the cables and will see what needs to be adjusted from there. Hopefully I can figure that out the manual is worthless.

@@mannysmaintenancegarage980 trying to figure out my adjustments now. My front cables (front of the lift and front of the garage) are taught when dropped all the way. The crossbeam does sit on the bottom plates, and I’ve only got about 2 threads sticking through the nut on the cable. The ladder bar itself is also adjusted down so that it’s about 3/16” or 1/4” off of the baseplate. The rear of the lift (garage entry) won’t sit on the baseplates. There’s about 1.5” gap and the cables are tight. To try and get it level on the cables, I have about 2” of thread. Do you know if I can just loosen those cables so that the runways drop on the ground? I realize that would mean the front of the lift since the cables have no slack would start lifting first, and it may not lift level on the way up? I feel lost here and really don’t want to put big shims under these posts due to low vehicles. Appreciate it!

No, it did not require one. I am sure one can be easily added if you'd like.

There is nothing to it. It is just time consuming. Grab the longest level you have and place it across each of the four sides between posts as you tighten and loosen the bolts at the cable ends and at the post tops.. As you tighten and loosen, keep rotating your level around until you find the right plane across all four sides. It's been a while, but I think I did this on the rest position and lift position to ensure a level lift also. You will have a level raise and all four locks clicking at about the same time as you raise it, if you do it right.

Glad you found use in it. Yes, the push raise button and lower buttons are included. The raise push button activates the hydraulics and the lower button activates the air lock release.

Our install is accurate for this version. See the 12:00 minute mark in the video, page 37 which shows A & B to be on the bottom like we did. None of our cables are twisted. Take a look at your install. You may find it is different or you may have mixed something up.

@@mannysmaintenancegarage980 It probably doesn't matter whether A & B are on the top or the bottom. Mine are on the top are also not twisted. You are right though, it does show A & B on the bottom Hm. The lifts are the same so it should be fine. I will start releasing my videos in about a week.

You can see how the bolt/shaft that runs through each sheave is held in place by a small bolt or a snap ring. Removing the bolt/ring allows the larger bolt/shaft to slide out for sheave removal.

@@mannysmaintenancegarage980 Got it, Thanks!

lol, we needed to, just for a bit. we promise no engine hoists were hurt in the making of the video.

Thank you!

No, it only fits/works one way. It just takes a bit to figure out ahead of time. The instructions are not good but there are differences in each beam. They will begin to assemble in different combinations, so to save the trouble, we called out the correct assembly. Once you initially and correctly identify each part, you are all set. Otherwise you run into instances of re-assembly. The dual pulleys will only fit into the one with the larger "windows" or openings, for example.

Yes, no relay and used factory OEM switch already there. We ran LEDs with no problem. If you are drawing too much power with a different light set, you may have blown the fuse. Give it a peek to see if you have to adjust.

No, I keep the rollers handy and move it around as needed. It is pretty easy to roll.

Thank you. It will lift and fit some 3/4 ton trucks. Those vary in weght from about 8500 to 9500 lbs. So you'd be pushing the max capacity on the lift, but the dimensions would allow it.

@@mannysmaintenancegarage980 thank you.