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Nerdy Sir
Приєднався 13 лип 2021
Snowman - Photo Engraving Slate on CO2 Laser
CO2 Lasers are friggin sweet. Showing you how to do some photo engraving with my Mira 9 100w laser from Aeon Laser USA. I use Lightburn for all of the editing and prep. Happy Holidays!
-Check out my Etsy shop! : www.etsy.com/shop/NerdySirDesigns
-Check out Aeon Laser USA : aeonlaser.us/contact?ref=NERDYSIR (let them know I sent you!)
-Inkscape : inkscape.org/ (not sponsored)
-Lightburn : lightburnsoftware.com/ (not sponsored)
-Check out my Etsy shop! : www.etsy.com/shop/NerdySirDesigns
-Check out Aeon Laser USA : aeonlaser.us/contact?ref=NERDYSIR (let them know I sent you!)
-Inkscape : inkscape.org/ (not sponsored)
-Lightburn : lightburnsoftware.com/ (not sponsored)
Переглядів: 730
Відео
3D Slice & Bleach Engraving with a Fiber Laser
Переглядів 1,8 тис.11 місяців тому
This uses a cool feature in Lightburn called "3D Sliced", which is an image mode setting that works like reverse 3D-printing. It take longer, but gives incredible results. The bleaching look adds a splash of white color on top of that engraving to make the whole thing pop. And sometimes you have to record something twice, which is what I had to do here. Bear with me as I show you this cool tech...
Node Editing in Lightburn to Repair Designs
Переглядів 33511 місяців тому
I am a bit goofy when teaching something on the fly, but hopefully you appreciate the raw realness of graphic design. Sometimes you'll get a broken design that needs some repair work, or you need to repurpose one of your designs into something else. Whatever the case, here is how you can use the node editor in Lightburn to change up and fix a design. -Check out my Etsy shop! : www.etsy.com/shop...
Lightburn - Planning Rotary Jobs, 1/3 views
Переглядів 78Рік тому
A little help guide for planning out your rotary jobs. Get your circumference (measure at the widest part of the cup) and the height of the engravable space, and create a box in Lightburn with those two measurements. That will be the boundary area of your cup. Now since you only ever look at 1/3 of a cup at any given time, here is how to plan for designing so that your design is visible without...
Lightburn - Locking Shapes for Jigs
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
When setting up files in Lightburn, it's easy to bump something out of place. Here is how to set up your reference box areas for when you're doing repeatable projects. This works with squares, circles, or any cutout shape you want to use for jigs on a laser engraver. Look how easy that was. Now go forth and do amazing things! -Check out my Etsy shop! : www.etsy.com/shop/NerdySirDesigns -Check o...
Lightburn - What is LPI?
Переглядів 2,6 тис.Рік тому
When jumping into laser engraving, there are a lot of things to learn, and one overlooked setting is LPI (Lines Per Inch). This is a short video to show how a basic engraving can look completely different, depending on what your LPI setting is. This is a basic understanding that also applies to more advanced engraving. -Check out my Etsy shop! : www.etsy.com/shop/NerdySirDesigns -Check out Aeon...
Thinking about getting a laser?
Переглядів 210Рік тому
It's an exciting world, laser engraving. Maybe you've thought about getting into it, but need some pointers. I hope I can offer some insight on this channel to get you started. -Check out my Etsy shop! : www.etsy.com/shop/NerdySirDesigns -Check out Aeon Laser USA : aeonlaser.us/contact?ref=NERDYSIR (let them know I sent you!) -Inkscape : inkscape.org/ (not sponsored) -Lightburn : lightburnsoftw...
Lightburn - Image Mode Engraving Mistakes and Stuff
Переглядів 17 тис.Рік тому
Lightburn - Image Mode Engraving Mistakes and Stuff
Lightburn - Boolean Intersect and Offset SVGs
Переглядів 805Рік тому
Lightburn - Boolean Intersect and Offset SVGs
3.5" Disks - Asymmetrical double-side engrave
Переглядів 480Рік тому
3.5" Disks - Asymmetrical double-side engrave
Convert Handwriting into SVG - Engrave and score line
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
Convert Handwriting into SVG - Engrave and score line
7 Lightburn Tips for Beginners - KNOWLEDGE DUMP
Переглядів 405Рік тому
7 Lightburn Tips for Beginners - KNOWLEDGE DUMP
Using Blender Graphics with a Laser Engraver
Переглядів 5242 роки тому
Using Blender Graphics with a Laser Engraver
Quick Lightburn Lesson - multiple Image settings
Переглядів 3812 роки тому
Quick Lightburn Lesson - multiple Image settings
Laser Engraving with Inkscape - Dominoes
Переглядів 3532 роки тому
Laser Engraving with Inkscape - Dominoes
Hi. I see that you also don't have a frequency option/button in your Cut Settings Editor. I don't have it either. Can you tell me why that is? I see that everyone else has it..and it's quite important when working with fiber lasers and engraving the metal.
So this is a CO2 glass laser tube, and the frequency (kHz) is locked at 20 (I believe). It's not able to be manipulated, unlike my ST50J fiber laser, the kHz has a range from 40-600. Hope that helps.
@@nerdysir144 Thanks. So one would need to buy the more expensive pro version for fiber lasers to work?
@@1985cactus So the Galvo license? Yes. It's not a different version of Lightburn, it just adds/unlocks the ability to use fiber lasers, depending on which 'Device' you have selected. But the license works the same, you get free updates for a year, then keep that latest version until you renew again.
@@nerdysir144 I see. I didn't know that. But damn it is expensive. 234 euros. And then updates every year.
@1985cactus free updates FOR a year, then you stick with that version after it expires. I've had my same expired version for over a year, no issues.
Under rated video
Background noise. Is awesome. Lovely family.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Is LPI and DPI The same thing. I would like to know how to set the deepth so I can powder coat the engraving better
@shellymcdonald9967 LPI is Lines Per Inch, and deals more with the "slices" that make up an engraving. DOTS Per Inch is for jpegs, as it deals with pixels that will change on the same slice.
@@nerdysir144 can you do a video on DPI and how to change them. I find your video very good and easy to understand. I'm just learning and I have an 80 watt omtech and I use of lightburn
Same here, just 1 kid more 😉 Kudos for your engraving/bleaching tips and your persistence in keeping on the video despite your young helper’s ambushes from behind 😂 Greetings from Rome 🇮🇹
Drop the music
You can start with any type of file or does it have to be a P&G or stl? I'm using image generating AI software
This was just a JPEG, just make sure it's high resolution
I think I'm answering my own question but this method could be used on Coins and other materials to create depth
You are correct.
Gr8 Vid. Thank you for taking the time to share. In the near future, can you share with your audience somewhat of the same process of 3D Slicing on a Blank Brass Coin. I am interested in seeing the results and the settings. I know it will not have the bleaching method, perhaps more of a cleaning pass. However, just curious about how much depth you can achieve on a metal engraving.
@@JohnNightraven I do have some brass coins, I could do a video on that as well.
Circle circle dot dot you all need a cootie shot. Seriously, thanks for the detailed information. Very useful.
Great Video Thank you so much sure helped 🥰
Thank you!😊
Great content...helps tremendously! My mom also has cooties 😂
But you have gone to a lot of trouble to make the video and looks like good information. Thanks
Could you at least add subtitles as my volume is turned up as far as it goes and still no sound. Otherwise delete the video is an option.
Get rid of music
Appreciate the content and the real life situations we all face. Thanks! 😊
Life is rarely so courteous to our time and patience. Gotta roll with it. 😂
@@nerdysir144 how would this technique work with a deep brass engraving or other metals? Would the bleach pass act as a clean up polishing pass?
@@mikepersin6405 I'll have to test and get back to you on that
@@nerdysir144 awesome! I have a new 100w jpt mopa and I’m learning so much every day.
Interesting. Wouldn't Greyscale give a better shading though, although it might take longer to burn?
I'll give it a go.
Nice technique to separate the depth layers! This might work well with those z-axis control diodes too. Encourage your little helper son to keep an interest in your work and be amazed..
I think the 3D slice is only available on the Galvo license of Lightburn, used by Fiber Lasers. And here's hoping my tiny boi shows interest in what I do. 🤞
Muchas gracias señor Nerdito, yo me suscribo :)
A su orden, mi buen señor.
If this is a jpt mopa, I'd expect a wider frequency range along with the ability to set the q-pulse width.. This should be in the device setting. Don't know which jpt you have... maybe it doesn't apply.. ? Nice video.... I sometimes think some of my equipment came with a gremlin... I think yours is scooting around the room :)
Not a mopa, sadly.
I enjoyed the kiddo interruptions as much as the video 🙂 thank you for making this!
Glad you enjoyed it! He enjoys causing the interruptions as well.
there is an icon under the arrow(pick) 6th one down is node editing
Y'know what, I've used that over and over, and it never worked for me until NOW when I tried ungrouping everything until I was selecting only one object. (self-dopeslap)
Great Video, you deserve far more attention from UA-cam, hope they give it to you!... I would subscribe again if it would help.. 😅
Nothing stopping you from creating multiple accounts, but I still value the praise. Lol, Thanks George!
Great information here. I just tried this and it worked perfectly.
Glad it helped!
sort your volume levels out bro
Since this video it has been sorted out. I really should redo this video...
Hello - How to reset GRBL configurations (My setup for my Sculpfun S9 is wrong)
Is it being run on Lightburn or something else?
Slay
Great stuff-many thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
What would be the ideal speed and power setting for 5w ortur diode. Thanks.
I'm guessing the speeds are lower on those models. For a 5w, maybe try 50mm/sec? I always recommend testing.
So you don't pre-process your Images using ImagR before importing in LightBurn? You import them directly into it ? Have you tried both options to see which one is best ?
Depends on the image. High resolution with even lighting will usually work like a charm, but if it's grainy or low resolution, then you'll get bad results. Ideally you'd set the dpi to the same dpi as the image.
There's no audio
It's there, but incredibly quiet.
Omg so true..Im about yo chick my laser out the window..setup perfect photo and import and trash
The stress of learning a new skill is... well, stressful. That's one reason I try to address questions and problems as they pop up. What's bothering you about your laser?
You are a legend my good sir😊
I aim to please
Musak is sooooooooooooo irritating. And totally unnecessary.
Duley noted. I've since removed background music from my videos.
Can you demonstrate how to engrave a portrait on black granite using Lightburn and co2 laser? Thanks in advance.
I'll see if I can get my hands on some
Good video. Very informative. However, the background music is too loud and very distracting. I would prefer to hear you explain your topic than the music.
Lol, yeah that seems to be the only real takeaway from this video. I'll redo it and "card" people to the new one.
You emphasize that the power and speed remain the same for all your tests so therefore the colour of every line in your pattern must be the same. So why does increasing the LPI create a darker image? Can I suggest you drop your table by 4mm and run the test again. I think you may be surprised at the results.
Easy explanatiom: Draw a soft line with a pencil on a white paper. It is Light gray right?. Now Draw the same line over itself, it becomes darker. Is like the same here in Laser. The Laser burns the material to make a dark line, when you increase the number of pases that the laser would do, It would over burn the material and makes it darker and darker. Sorry for my english, hope you understand me
@SarbarMultimedia I'll do a video on that in the future. And it's less to do with how dark the image is and more about how the engraving has more resolution the higher you increase it. But at some point, enough is enough, and you might as well just increase the power to get a darker engraving. But, I'll try that and do a video on it.
@@ZYairZ Basically, yeah. I believe the kerf of the laser is .4mm, so there will more overlap as you get to the 150 range.
This is a great little video that touches on a whole world of misunderstanding about laser damage to materials. . There is nothing wrong with the video it is a perfect demonstration of the tricks that our eyes play on us. Fiirst, with no power change the lines will all burn the same colour. When the line spacing is wide, your eyes can see the individual lines against the light background. As the LPI increases, depending on how far away you view the pattern, your eyes cannot focus on the individual lines. Instead, they create an AVERAGE mix of line colour and background colour to form a shade of brown. As you increase the LPI the "white" space between the lines gets less so your eye creates a darker AVERAGE shade of brown. Take a look at your lines with a magnifying glass to understand that your lines do not overburn until maybe 300 LPI. .Can I suggest you watch thi video that demonstrate.s the way that a laser beam is the master of deception . ua-cam.com/video/Na5_6okUyKg/v-deo.html This LPI principle you demonstrate is perfect explanation of what happens in one axis only for vector engraving but it also happens in two axis (DPI) as you enter the world of dithered photo engraving. You will note that Lightburn limits your options if you import a bitmap The LPI and DPI are interlinked so you camnnot make a mistake. A simple example of how your eyes are fooled is that PC monitor in front of you. Take a 10x magnifier and look at the screen to see the detail that your eyes average out. This human weakness is the whole principle behind why digtal graphics works
@@ZYairZ Hi . There is nothing wrong with your English , it is 100% understandable. If you have a laser machine , write a simple program with a single line say 50mm long.. Burn that line on a piece of wood. Move the wood and now run that line program twice in the same spot. Move again and run the program 3 times Compare the colour of the 3 tests..I think you will see that your pencil explanation is not valid for laser burns.
Great Video...
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Picking my jaw up off the floor. Awesome trick 👌🏼
That's what I want people to learn: How to wow.
Great Video David.... thank you for sharing.
No sound?
It's very very faint, my recording volume was turned down. I'll have to redo this one.
no sound on my system either
@@jessetutterrow4320 I goofed the sound on this, so you have to turn it all the way up.
I am giving video a thumbs down because of the music!
Thank you for the 3 comments on this matter.
You need to say what the software is you are using perhaps you said it but that crappy music sucks!
I mention both of the programs I use within the first 18 seconds of the video, and they are both also mentioned in the description. But yes, the music has been noted and is no longer used in my current videos.
More tips please 👍
Just in general, or anything specific to help your skill?
You might consider a mike, the sound was faint at best.
You are not wrong. Often times I am at the mercy of a toddler who is non-stop watching "Baby Shark", so I have to do what I can to mute it out. Also, it's been noted that the music drowns out my voice, so that'll be eliminated from future videos.
this is a novel solution and is well presented, Although the idea of locking the plate to the bed is 100% correct for what you are trying to do, ther is no need to worry about magnets.There will always be faults in your plywood (usually air voids) that will prevent 100% clean cuts as you demonstrated. Just cut all your blanks first. Your honeycomb table has a raised frame around it , Take another piece of thinner material (even 3mm MDF) locate it into the corner of your honeycomb frame. Disable the engraving and line layers and cut the outer location shape/s ( with half moons as suggested by Jason that sit on top of the cut layer as a different layer) If you are trying to make the process as efficient as possible, then create two of these corner location templates so that you can engrave 4 and while that is happening you load the other template with 4 blanks. When the first 4 have completed you can quickly SLIDE them away from thr corner and slide the next 4 into the same perfect location, , Engrave all one side, swap the engraving program and repeat the process. Also you will significantly reduce your engraving time by scanning all 4 coaters at once By the way, I note that you are creating brown fume debris around your engravings which I suspect means a second sanding clean operation. If you wish to learn how to do clean engraving maybe take a look at this video. laseruser.com/the-concise-rdworks-learning-lab-19/. You will also learn another technique for making your scanning run twice as fast. I hope you see this commenet as a win,win, win and not anything negative. IF this turns into a serious business, the knowledge of how to run efficiently and fast wiill push the day you need to buy a second machine way into the future. Best wishes and good luck.
nice video. just a little advice, when i do a template like this i like to add a half moon cut on one side of each to help in removing items.
I see the wisdom in that. I think I would plan something like that if I were doing keychains or watch straps, something repeatable. But, couldn't hurt to try in this case as well.