Відео

thanks for the shout out - I'm glad it worked!!

I don't know of any manufacturers that would make custom parts for you, but (in theory) you could do it yourself. For the stopper pads, I could imagine cutting and gluing a strip of wool or thick felt and some foam rubber (like "memory foam"), and then trimming them to look the same. For the keys, I could imagine finding a place that could 3D print the keys. For the weights, I could imagine bending thick copper or cold-rolled steel "pencil rod" (cold rolled steel) into the same form. For the circuit boards, you could create a replacement using the Arduino Uno that is extremely flexible -- that said, it would cease to be a "Yamaha" and become an "Awake Monster" keyboard. Good luck and have fun!!

Thanks for your impressive reply David 😂😂lol I cant imagine i could make the circuit board and bending the metal myself...hahaa But to be serious, i really plan to make some replacement myself, do u think the thickness of the stopper does matter? I search around the net, but I have no idea how thick i need to make it. Thanks again.

@@awakemonster9721 np!! The great thing about DIY is that you get to customize it for how **you** like it. The thickness is how Yamaha liked it. For example, if you like the keys to have a lot of travel when you play (i.e. a "deeper action"), then make the pads thinner. If you like a very shallow travel/action in the keys, then make the pads thicker. The main thing is looking at what the wire does when you press the key. Take one, and move it slowly up and down and see how it hits the pads. Notice what happens when you move the wires up and down (just remember its flipped over). As a test, temporarily tape the pads on, flip it over and see how the keyboard plays?? Then, when you're 100%, permanently glue them down.

Great suggestions. Lets me have try soon. Thanks David.

David i finally finished my work last night. Thanks for your help 😊

It's wonderful to see that you've taken it to the next level - that is far more work than I did!! Good luck on your future quests with P-70

please see the description/notes for this video for specifics. However, please also note that this keyboard is now nearly 15 years old and many parts may no longer be available. I wish you good luck on your quest!

Shadrach thank you for watching! The repair worked and the action was quiet again for quite a few years. In the end, though, it returned and I think that is just the fault of the design. TBH, at that point I had the keyboard for 13 years, and technology had far surpassed the quality of the keyboard (i.e. the sample quality these days is just amazing) - so I gave the keyboard to my mom for when I come home to visit, and I moved on to new tech.

@@davidallyn1818 Ok then that's good. Glad it worked out. 👍

Thanks Chris!! Yep, about a year ago, my P70 was starting to exhibit the same behavior on the same keys (can you believe c3, d3, f#3, g3,... lol) I thought about going in and fixing the pads and loose keys, but then quickly realized the grand piano sound (circa 2005) is really old. The sampling technology is so advanced now - so I bit the bullet and bought a Studio Logic 88 midi controller, Keyscape by Spectrasonics, and JBL Studio Monitors. And I have to say it's pretty close to an actual piano.

I have one P70 and want to repair myself. Same problem, parts is difficult to find. Do u think it is possible to use other similar materials to substitute it?

Wow!! Congratulations Yvonne! That's not an easy job, and it's a pretty heavy keyboard to be flipping around. I hope your hands get back to playing music rather than screwing around (literally) :)

Hi Brad, If I had to take a guess, I would say that the contact under G5 is either worn or corroding. The only way to tell would be to open the keyboard up (refer to video #1 - and the 70+ screws) and make a visual check of the place where the G5 touches a switch or contact ribbon. If you see any light-green powder in, on, or around any parts, then you'll need to replace those parts before G5 will work. The link above in the notes has a lot of replacement parts including the amp and contact strips. Good luck - that's a good one!!

@@davidallyn1818 I'll try to look at the contact, but I'm a little intimidated by digging too far into the unit. Thanks.

@@downbear It's not for the faint of heart that's for sure. TBH, I no longer have my P70 since it began to show another round of loud, clacky keys .... and I just couldn't think of making that journey again. I have a new keyboard that I love, and it was worth the upgrade!

Oh... wow. sorry to hear about this happening. My intuition is the contacts on the keys and maybe the processing unit has become corroded so that (literally) wires are being crossed. If you open it up and see lots of light green stuff on your electronic parts or wires, there's a good chance it's corroded. Unfortunately, if that's the case, I'm not sure there is a fix that would be less expensive than buying a used P120 or something?? Sorry I couldn't help better - I know that's a bummer.

@@davidallyn1818 this guy has the exact issue ua-cam.com/video/1m7FGVD_9Pk/v-deo.html e

@@Therevolution7 oh wow!! did he fix it?

@@davidallyn1818 Not really, but in the comments i saw someone said they used a blow dryer- so the issue is that in certain areas..the humidity is high and it somehow affects the keys- i got a blow dryer and blowed in between the keys and it fixed! Lol!

​@@Therevolution7hello got the same problem. Did you open the keyboard?

Oh... what a great idea!! I bet it will be much more durable too!

Wait, are you saying that this relatively inexpensive weatherstripping (as we call it around here) works as well as the pricey yamaha stoppers? I already bought the stoppers, but havent gotten around to the daunting task of attempting to replace them (especially all those screws).

@@novakant3048 I went with the pricier "OEM" as you did. But, when you compare them, you'll notice they are oddly similar. I'd be interested to find out as well!

@@davidallyn1818 Hopefully he will report back in the future. Meanwhile, it has been quite a while since you replaced the stoppers, so how have they held up, if you even still have the piano?

​@@novakant3048 The pads held up ok - though it was probably time to change them again.

I'm so sorry to hear about your keyboard. I hope you get up and playing soon.

yay... yes, it's a labor of love :)

Ah... let the brilliant hacks begin! Nice!

Hey there - I would advise you to go to link I put in the notes above for parts. If you can't visit that site, then I would recommend contacting a Yamaha dealer or visit this site: vn.yamaha.com/index.html **please note** this piano is getting *very* old from a technology perspective, and it may be extremely difficult to find parts for it in the future.

@@davidallyn1818 yes, thanks you very much

Good Luck! Remember to do it slowly and keep separate everything into their own bags or containers so you can remember how it goes back together.

ah, I got it, thanks

Don, (it's been a bit since I did this, but..) it should be the same as the side ribbons. Make sure the two side "tabs" are up that unlock the terminator, slide the ribbon in to it as far as it will comfortably go, then slide the two side tabs down to lock in place. I usually give the ribbon a (very gentle) tug to make sure it's seated properly.

Teboho, I'm not really sure that's something you can fix. Usually when keys simply don't sound, that means something has happened to the contacts, wires, or circuitry that produce those electric signals. Given there is rust on the green parts, the circuit board itself may be damaged. I'm sorry I couldn't help you.

@@davidallyn1818Thank you, I've had it for 10 years now and I bought it second hand from a who had for 5 years. So it has been working for 15 years straight. Can you estimate how much a green board would cost roughly?

Thanks for the update!! Wow, I'm surprised they even have these parts anymore. You realize our P70 pianos are around 15 years old, now!!

@@davidallyn1818 Repairs like this tend to only become necessary 15-20 years after the product is made.

Ah!! :) Good thinking! You could definitely use an electric screwdriver -- although you REALLY have to be careful not to "strip" those screws. Those aren't screws that you'll find at your local hardware store. Just keep in mind that a big "drill gun" can easily turn a Phillips (i.e. "x") head into a rounded crater in less than a second. And then, you are really "screwed" (pardon the pun).

Massimiliano, from the looks of it, there are three places the key can make noise. When it hits the lower limit (the pad I showed fixing), when it hits the upper limit (the other pad I showed), and when you touch the key and it "clatters". I'm not 100% certain that is a lubrication problem, rather the key just getting old and "sloppy". Every mechanical part, with use, will end up developing some extra movement due to use. Play your low A, and you will see what your P70 keyboard used to sound like those 15 years ago! Lubricant may help deaden the sound for a bit, but in the end, the key just needs to be replaced.

@@davidallyn1818 Yes, it is more a "clack" noise when I touch the keys (not when it touches the 2 pads you shown). When I had the first time this problem it happened after 4 months (in short, a new piano, I have a P115 that is identical to P70 from a mechanical point of view). As the guy said, "it was a lubricant problem"; the piano come back and the 2 noisy keys were ok. Today (8 months later) the originally noisy keys are still ok, but a new key is clacking (E4). Yes, the A0 and the C8 are still as they are new, however, I think 12 months and clacking keys all around are well outside what I think is acceptable. I think I'll soon try to fix and share with the community my findings.

I have had the same issues with the latest P125, it's the old GHS action that is rather dated now, had mine for just 3 months and found that if you play certain keys very often or with extra force they get rattly in no time at all. I like my blues and boogie woogie and after three months of not even the most intensive playing half the bass keys were clanking like mad. I've found that the issue is where the key attaches to the hammer action where the biggest issue lies. Hope you got your issues sorted or got a new keyboard all together I've been told by a tech that this is the most common flaw with the GHS action used and it basically requires lubrication every 4 or so months if you play hard which is a real pain in the arse with all the work you need to do.

Patrick, there will be a day where they just don't make the parts anymore. To get innovative, you may want to go down to your local fabric store and buy some deep-pile felt or wool. They may be willing to make the long cuts at the store, because they have big tables to do it on. There are some pretty strong double sided tape out there that will be plenty strong to hold the felt in place. If you figure it out, please update your post so we know what to do next :b

So sorry for the delay... were you able to solve the problem?

Wait nvr mind I figured it out lol

Sorry for the delay... I'm glad you figured it out. Did you use the adjustment using the keyboard itself?

yay!

you're welcome! I'm glad I could help you. grease is for squeaky stuff. the keys on my keboard don't squeak - they rattle. that means they're loose and need padding or tightening. that's a whole video itself.

+madpop17 On my yamaha p-70 i had a few dead notes. I solved the problem this way : I removed the rubber band (make sure that you place the rubber band in the same position), I cleaned the surface with isopropyl alcohol and when the surface was dried i used a soft graphite pencil to redraw the contact lines under the rubber band. Hope this helps, mine works perfectly now.

thanks, I'll give it a try