Відео

may pc cant keep up 528 bevers and every taime i want to place a new pathway i get 1fps. some 1 tips 4 me?

This is the beginning, so I wont say TOO much.. but BUILD ON THE ROADS! Later you will use travel posts to fast travel, and they can only be placed near roads. The BEST base location is just past the sign on the road that points to Haerndearn.

This game really can get boring playing alone. But if you can get some people together, this game has the potential to be really fun. I would suggest it for a game that parents can play with their kids. Its all pretty wholesome, even with the killing.

Maybe next time don't talk through the fuckin intro. If you're going to do that just skip it, ffs

This is one of the best i have ever played

Dyslexia is a B. It is StaM-ina. Not staN-ima. Love ya bro. Keep on trucking.

51:19 you've missed paths on both corners

Should of put clocks at the front of the roofs of the very top houses

Time to set up a hotkey for detonation?

Great video as usual! There seems to be some sort of problem with sound in this one, the music and vfx sound is louder than voice over

Next platforms over anything, the last section can be a bridge to be cheaper.

46:00 Why 2 tiles of path at the intermediate floor? You only need 1, and it might just be enough to fit the stairs to the top if you get rid of the extra tile.

37:05 The Dirt mod has levees that look like dirt

👋

37:20 you could've connected them all via a central shaft along the middle divide, no need for all those t-junctions in the current line.

@34:50 So, foresters (and other similar buildings, like farmhouses, tapper shacks, and the various flags) work based on distance on foot, not a radius. Specifically, foresters can reach 20 blocks traveled orthogonally and/or diagonally (paths not needed, but walkable surfaces are). So moving it further from stairs/bridges reduces the area it can access at different elevations/sides of the river/chasm/whatever. The way to increase the range of the forester for mangroves is to have it in the middle, facing the path (not the side, that adds a fair bit of travel distance to get down and around the forester) and add another set of stairs on the left side. I'd also recommend, while you're rebuilding all of that, to just move the forester's platform to the other side of the wall (over the green area, with scaffolding and platforms on the path below) so only one tile of mangrove space is occupied (by the stairs, which should be directly across from the forester's entrance, and in the middle of the area you want it to plant)

Thanks for the breakdown! Could you help me with something unrelated: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?

25:25 The Dirt mod has a "levee that looks like a terrain block" Are you sure you're not losing water off the edge of the map (on the other side of the lake) during a drought? Your reservoir should really be lasting the entire drought because it _was_ large enough before, but I fear that after the sluice refactoring water is slowly leaking off the map. 55:00 Are the clocks facing the wrong way? I think they're facing into the staircase instead of the towards the fields.

When I played this the drout came at day 4 😢

How does the clipping of NPCs work like this

37:50 2.0 high? Why? Set the to 1.8 & all the others near by.

You dumb, read your comments, or start watching some other creators. Fix your edges, man. You got some problems, retard?

There is a QOL mod that adds an indicator in the UI that shows you the height of whatever you mouse over. It doesnt break the save if you deactivate it.

you can try using the layer level visibility section under the workhour setting dial for matching the height of the various construction you're doing. currently it is at ∞,

Extending your irrigation to the new mangrove fields using the big reservoir was what drained it, because of the extra evaporation in the mangrove fields and the lake. Either increase the big reservoir or get a proper badtide diversion on the second water source and use that source to irrigate the new mangroves, also building a reservoir using the crater maybe. It can be tricky to work out water flows because every time you extend your dams, levees, etc. it changes everything. It's best to check where the water flow goes in the wet season after you make the change in case there's a leak or overflow, and then check again in the following dry season to see how evaporation and drought affect water levels in reservoirs. But you could also have anticipated the problem since before you added the new mangrove fields and extra sluices you were already getting low in the big reservoir, so it wasn't smart to add an extension of irrigation. Also you were forewarned about how the lake shrank in dry season before the extension so that should have told you how much extra evaporation surface and depth you were adding. It's a tough game!

I'm amazed how quick you got most of the big reservoir done. I didn't have enough science for the big bridges, so I combined scaffolding and medium bridges to build it two layers at a time from the bottom whilst building the sides from the top. This structure was a game-changer, letting me pump water until half-way through 20 day droughts.

49:50 you placed the wall of sluices exactly in the same spot instead of moving them up.

Set the sluice heights proper.

22:30 If you hold shift while deleting it'll skip the confirmation dialog. 50:35 Why sluices at the top? Wouldn't floodgates be better? With sluices you'll end up flooding upstream (like happens at 52:00), or you'll lose an entire tile of water (if the sluice is left open). Dams would be fixed at 0.65, but floodgates will allow you to tune it exactly.

No commentary around 35 minutes either

No comments on 15 min?

Looks fun nice video

Wow! Prevention seems to be a million times better than cure on hard mode. I put in a water dump so I would never again lose irrigation at the end of a drought, since the droughts get longer. Also, I added canola oil and soybean and more fun stuff to get to 12 happiness. Learning from your "incident” I kept the badwater diverted near the town (eventually went to triple floodgates, but that was overkill). The main issues were having a farm for every 10 beavers to keep food increasing up to 40 beavers -- having soybean helps a lot, but I also added a 3x3 water reservoir surrounded by levees with a water dump to gain more green space. And water is a huge issue as droughts get longer. Medium water tanks are great but you need to fill them in the short wet season, so I went for 1 pump per 5 beavers to do this. Thanks for this series, and I'll see how you recover and what you do with sluices. Edit: also had a beaver-power wheel for the droughts, so I only needed 1 fermenter to deal with cassava. I recommend increasing your population before making metal, you will want 30-40 beavers if not more. Increased happiness reducing death rate will help too.

I was worried about your original badtide diversion. I didn't think single floodgate would be enough, but double floodgate might be, so it might have gone better to have beefed up the original diversion. But this map looks very tough if you get an early bad tide before you have double floodgates. Of course, you could cheese it with paused double levees in place of the blocking floodgates which you build once you get the badtide warning and destroy double levees at the diversion in place of opening double floodgates.

Hard mode is a real micromanagement workout in the early cycles. I moved to 2 farmhouses to be able to stock up food so no beaver got left behind, if you know what I mean. Always interesting to see the planning for reservoirs and diversions. Thanks for the video.

At 1:30 when you’re talking about water problems. A cheaper solution would have been to put another water barrel closer to the workers, or another stairwell closer to the water. The run to the water barrels is tanking their efficiency.

Open the sluce gates for your bad tide diversion system.

52:47 Try the Smart Power mod?

The badwater flooding was caused by removing the block at 35:05. When the block was there, there were 5 edges for water to fall, so 11cms could fall without backing up, after you removed it only 3 edges or 6.6cms could fall without backing up.

18:00 You need sluices up to the level that you want to keep the water most of the time. You may only have space for a single high floodgate (guess based on heights visible around 37:20).

You don't need a wider channel if you can increase the speed of the water. Since a flow rate (cubic metres per second = cms or m³/s) can also be described as a cross section times velocity (m² * m/s) you can technically fit all the water in a one-wide channel if you so desire. However, this requires you to increase your speed, which in this game can only be achived by raising cms altogether. An edge of a tile has a restriction of 2.2cms for the simple reason that otherwise there would never be a water level atop a waterfall, the water would just all flow out at infinite speed. To increase the flow rate, you gotta create more edges (doesn't matter if they belong to the same tile). But this will only affect the water level in the channel section above the drop. As you've seen in the previous video, once you've solved your problem it just moves downstream, unless you ensure that the drop at the end of the next section has at least the same amount of edges. So, what shapes are suitable for a drop that can handle lots of flow rate? The most common are arrows, half arrows (diagonals), zig zag lines (teeth) or any combination of those. With arrows it doesn't matter if they are indented or raised. There are also funnels and side steps/side slips? (hard to translate), but I don't think they are necessary in this case. Funnels are basically just elongated teeth or more like a channel within a basin or channel. The lemgth creates more edges, so over distance all water will eventuall fall into the trench. A side step is just a channel with one retaining wall removed to create a drop at a 90 degree angle, which you can make as long as you need to increase the edge count. The channel below can stay parallel to the upper one, or simply be a basin that just collects the water for a narrower channel that moves into a different direction. To solve your problem you can now either dynamite down the center tile of your water fall to the level of the water wheels, or fill in the center tile infront of the water fall to create an arrow. Or make the thing diagonal. Seperate to this you can slope this (create steps) by repeating the patterns or keep it as one big drop. This gives you 5 edges, but if you need more, you could just dynamite down the entire center line of your upper channel and make a funnel that spreads out at the bottom into your 3 wide channel. ibb.co/74S4tmd

36:40 Bottom sluices are not doing any good on auto. Those ones can only be set to 1 high max. If you want auto to a higher height than build a sluice higher up. Just make a lake> You don't need a river. Close off all downstream with levees or dirt & set the heights with sluices. As water evaporates, the sluices refill.

44:57 Flooding - Open the damn sluices. Currently closed, set to auto open for badwater.

43:54 If you trickle water thru before badtide hits, it shouldn't overrun the sidewalls. As soon as water makes it to the end of the long canal & falls off the edges, it will pull water thru at a faster rate. Basically, slowly fill entire canal before turning it on full blast. OR Built up more sidewalls or TNT back a bit & move the sluices back a bit.

Do you ever fucking read comments? Take some suggesstions

You're limited by the 2.2cms-per-edge water limit. You need more conscientious edge planning in order to push that much liquid through an only 3 wide channel. Without careful planning will be limited to 6.6cms, and there's apparently more than that.

Levees 2 deeper than floor to stop contamination. OR Barriers. You can add platform on top, then path or other.

Those 3 undetonated dynamites that he passses by for 4 episodes now....bug me more the they shoud to..... 25:25

If you cap your bad water source and (but have it open all the time) and direct the bad water into a channel with water wheels, you can have continuous free power :)

23:55 If the dirt excavators are only running at ~30% efficiency, then you might as well pause 2 of them and get 8 bots to work elsewhere, and leave the 4 bots in the single remaining excavator running at nearer to 100% efficiency. 43:00 I think you pushed a bunch of resources into the badwater exit. Maybe only logs if you're lucky.