Відео

Cant u just insulate under the structure concrete?

Thanks - Great video helped me decide I am not getting this!

Thanks for making this video. I am currently looking into what goes into doing these details and your video has great information.

Great video. What does p-50 actually mean

How do these systems stack up now with new builds in Vic not allowed to have gas connections? Do electric heat pumps pose any problems? 50deg C would be close to their max temp output I'm guessing.

Great video explaining the choices available with hydronic, however there are more advanced options available from Europe nowadays that are far less complex and more efficient than hydronic. Check out Warmset far infrared underfloor heating, a technology that has just made it to Australia but has been around for 15 years.

Most ppl insulate under the pippin to keep the heat above and not below the ground.

Not sure we'll be able to have gas boilers any more. The gov is banning gas... Anyhow, we're country,Vic, we only have bottled gas... so back to solar i think. Great video, very informative. Thank you

monash transfer station,🤮 hows did this project go ???

Thanks for sharing. It looks too slick to pass up!

@charleyli9363 In my area of the US, underfloor 2" 4'x8' foam insulation board (Owens Corning Foamular 2" is what I used) is required under the rebar mat and pex tubing. I believe this is the standard in most areas of the United States (Maybe Austrailia too?). Also, I another perimeter foam insulation is required at the exterior edges of building. I think this is a major positive in reducing heat loss, which you did address in your video. My point is it does now seem to be a building code requirement which is good for the homeowners pocketbook and for the environment.

running flooring up to your framing is easy and preferred for a reveal look.

Thank you for the concise video it was very helpful to me as I am building a new modern-style home. I have done much research on UA-cam concerning this and yours is the only video that gave me good objective information without trying to sell me something.

Important and useful tips. Thanks. One question that was not covered is choosing the best size of shadow gap. I think on doors it depend on the width of your door frame/jam. For ceilings you may need to consider large gaps that allow for window blinds or lighting etc. (floating ceiling effect). It is worth noting that building fire regs can come into play (20mm UK for example). The work around is to double board to maintain fire reg compliance. For larger gaps (particularly ceiling) the whole void will need to be lined with gypsum panels to maintain fire separation or similar. Nothing can beat shadow gap for a contemporary look with hardwood frames. However, if not done neatly and 100% straight, it looks truly awful. There is zero forgiveness.

You could also change the boiler out in the future with an air or ground source heat pump.

More content please

Hi Charley , very good video. Continue please make video . Vlad

Which engineered wood that's available here in Australia can work well if hydronic floor heating? I love the idea of hydronic floor heating but I don't like the look of a polished concrete?

Lots of talk in the comments about zoning etc but that isn’t going to save running costs in any way. As long as every heated room is inside the thermal envelope of the building it will make little difference regarding heating costs. Foam waffle pod systems are used often nowadays and is built in floor insulation. Even that doesn’t really matter because the majority of the floor area is inside the thermal envelope. Edge beam insulation is cheap and an easy thing to install. You should lower your boiler supply temperature to 40c. It will run longer but will save you money. And also will create more condensing time of your Immergas boiler. You want your boiler to condense as much as possible. It’s much more efficient. Your boiler was running too hot from the plume it was producing. You can also increase the manifold flow rates to the cooler areas and reduce flow rates to the warmer areas. Great video. Lots of uneducated comments got me going. Regards, Shannon. GV Hydronic Heating (Vic).

Hey Charley - Great Video! Quick question....if you had to install that 200kg stone benchtop in a level 2 kitchen (which can only be accessed by a steep flight of stairs), how would u approach that? Cut it and glue it back together? Cheers

just curious, how are man-made stone bencthtops finished eg the gloss on them as i have seen under neath they are dull etc

Looks 👍 how is this done with existing home / rehab

Hi sir...i am looking for a job as stonemason granite installer and fabricator i have 10years or experience...hopping do you have job opening

Mate, great video. Informative and coherent. Thanks.

Insulate insulate insulate. Get to passive house standards and then a small 12000 btu mini split is more than enough for most houses in warm climates.

Icf slab house with radiant heat floor with foam boards under concrete closed cell spray foam roof fixed all those issues “boom drop the mic”

u need to come fitting with designer stone qld my man no polish needed on waterfalls we have crane on truck so we do 3.2 by 1400 Islands 20 30mm 40mm 60mm what ever u want on daily an no stair lifting any more it saves ya back and dodgy lifting good to see u use litho stone low silica thats all we use it 20 mm and now 30 mm love to see how others do the job wel done

Good content Charley. You plan on making more?

See I would jus carry it with grips me and my crazy Afghan worker

You should’ve drove in so the bar is facing straight to the entrance and you should’ve put down the stone and put the trolley on the bottom or just straight carry it in

Caesarstone 吗

Great video! Wondering how much height/thickness does the glue/silicone add to the overall thickness of the stone benchtop?

Hello, do you do Sydney projects ? Thanks

hello do you do Sydney projects ? cheers

Beautiful video, amazing installation process

great presentation. As a DIY home owner, i chose to use shadow line after seeing it in another home. to keep cost down i utilized plastic tear away L strip setting an 1/8 inch gap. yes it is more labor, but not much more material cost doing it this way.

I know a man that has this and he wishes he had not done it. The major drawback is once you have the concrete warm and you get a mild or warmish day you burn up. Works great if the outside temperature is cold and stays cold.

Hi Charley, Thanks for this very informative video. Very clear and easy to understand. It's hard to find information for alternatives to the dreaded air conditioner. I'd love to consider in-screed heating for our duplex which is now around 20 years old. It has a concrete slab. Two storey with insulated roof cavity. I'd only put the hydronic heating on the ground floor living areas. The upper floor is fully carpeted and fine in winter. In the bathrooms I wear slippers until the shower is hot so don't need it there. I hate air conditioning, plus I'm very hard of hearing with tinnitus so any small background noise adding to other background noise makes hearing over tinnitus more difficult. I only use air conditioning in my car when I have a passenger because it makes me feel suffocated. So adding an air conditioner to my home would pretty much mean constant misery for me and divorce thereafter. Questions I have are regarding technical matters not mentioned. It would be great if you could follow this video up with one regarding the space the manifold and any other components take up. I can't really tell the size of yours in the close up (I'm assuming mine would be smaller for smaller size duplex). If the booster is electric how much room would that take up, assuming it's separate to the fuse box (I'd consider installing solar PV eventually) and any other outside components such as the pipe expelling steam (this duplex has very little space outside for these things, eg nowhere to put even a slimline water tank). Our single garage but is crammed full of partner's tools and toys. Also, whether the outside components are noisy. I'd be interested to know whether your system is still working fine 3 years down the track and how much maintenance is needed. Also, I'd like some idea of how much depth is needed for the screed + insulation + hydronic pipes. Our ceiling is a lower 00s style of around 2.3m height. I need to consider whether it would feel suffocating if anything more than around 10cm was added to the floor height. This may be outside your experience. Perhaps someone else might know. I find it very difficult to get proper technical information from professionals at any time, particularly not being able to hear them, and without partner's support makes it even more difficult. Again, excellent video. Thank you.

Brilliant !

Is it a rabbet or rebated skirt?

What door jambs would you recommend? for shadowline

Hey Charlie, sweet video. Did you ever make any follow up progress vids?

I really like your attitude in dealing with adversity or challenges

What epoxy do you use to join the bench tops mate

Sounds like the installer messed up. All those problems are down to poor planning and design.

Great video Charley. Wonderful to see this system being reviewed from an Australian perspective. We are so far behind the rest of the world in things like this. Too many people think that Australian homes don’t need such systems which is why so much money is wasted on electric space heating.

We just did an installment last week, had to carry a 250kg stone by hand, no rollers.. That was a pain..

I watched it all! Very informative and well articulated. Thanks man.

Only adds 130k to the price of your house

Can you tell us about the hydronic heating system maintenance in details please.