Відео

@@Dancing_Alone_wRentals I appreciate the comment. Thank You

@@RaulTapia-s2m … Thanks for the comment. Do I go to McDonald’s and tell you how to flip a burger?

Not sure what you mean by that. I’ve seen him a few times. Other than the drunken rambling, don’t know what I am doing that reminds you of him. Watch my sober videos and you’ll see how boring I actually am. Not very entertaining when I’m drunk either, I must confess.

For sure

@@campycamperton6679 Hahaha, I use to I like watching his alot but anymore I rarely do, wish he had never done the tv thing now it just seems like he was trying to hard for laughs, more like an actor now than a normal guy like the rest of us. Good video BTW fun to watch.

@@PatrickBaptist…. Thanks for the props. I do like his show too. Much like his videos but a little more polished. But yeah, I’d rather watch his UA-cam videos

Noice

Yes the issue is with the “oil-less” bearings. The grease dries out in a 150 degree attic. I’ve seen it turn into a dry cake.

Thanks bro. Appreciate that. But wait till you hear me when I’m sober. Snooze-fest

Actually now that I think about it I may have made that spacer out of aluminum. I wonder if making it out of Teflon would electrically isolated the bearing and keep it from arcing

@@RobertsDs Hmmmm. The Bearing should not be a path for electricity at all. My motors have the electrical windings on the outer shell. (Whatever that’s called). Which is also known as brushless, because no brushes are needed to pass electricity through the spindle-shaft (whatever it called). So sounds like you have a brushed motor, and the electrodes aren’t isolated from the shaft, or something else is going on that shouldn’t be

@campycamperton6679 I will admit I'm somewhat ignorant when it comes to knowing all there is to know about electric motors and the different types. I am positive it isn't a brushed motor I put the bearings in. It was an induction motor, same as yours. On a side note, brushless motors often run on pulse DC, whereas the motors we have are running on AC. Everything I read said it's a big problem with induction motors running on a vfd, but that doesn't really apply to us, so who the hell knows.

@@RobertsDs …. It sounds like you know more about this subject than I do. So what’s your theory why your bearing would be arcing ? If the center armature doesn’t conduct any electricity, then why would any try to go through your bearing? Or maybe I need to educate myself on induction motors, as you pointed out.

I don't know much but I do know the difference between an induction motor vs a brushed. I just regergitated what I had just read on Google because I'm too dumb to put it in my own words. Anyhow, after some more googling, I did come across this info. Shaft circulating currents are caused from “dissymmetries” in the magnetic paths through the stator and rotor iron. As the rotor rotates within the stator and as the stators magnetic field rotates, small differences in the magnetic “reluctance” of the core parts generate small voltages be­tween the ends of the shaft. As you can see from the above definition, shaft circulating currents are a function of the electric motor’s electrical design. This is why some manufacturers will design the motor with an insulated bearing; bearing housing or endbell. These particular designs are created to interrupt the closed path for circulating currents through the bearings to the grounded motor frame. These currents will jump across ball bearing gaps or intermittently break through sleeve bearing oil films. The result in ball bearings is electric arcing on the highly polished surface of the balls or races which causes early fatigue and failure. With sleeve bearings the shaft journals and or babbitt will be pitted. See diagrams below.   Figure (a) Normal motor with single shaft extension-Insulate bearing A to break current path (arrows) through entire circuit. If bearing B alone Is Insulated, current can still flow to damage bearings A and C. (b) For a double-shaft machine, Insulating bearing A and/or B will suffice in most cases. NOTE: Shaft circulating currents can also be caused by a shaft becoming magnetized (i.e. magnet) from external sources such as welding, etc. There are also static electrical charges that can contribute to a shaft circulating current problem. As the shaft statically charges, then discharges through the bearings causing damage. It is also worth noting that shaft circulating currents are becoming more popular in smaller horsepower electric motor’s due to the popularity of variable frequency drives. A variety of devices are now being utilized, such as the AEGIS Shaft Grounding Ring, which are manufactured and designed to help protect the motor’s themselves and disrupt the circulating currents.

6201. Specifically 6201-8-2RS. 1/2”x 32mm x 10mm Aka… 12.7mm x 32mm x 10mm And keep in mind that this is not an exact fit for the bushing cups. I still wrap them in elec tape to take up the slack and keep them snug in the cups.

The shaft size is where you start since that has to be snug. Then you look for a smaller od to fit in the outer cover.

Never. Roger Unger over under Dunn

Thanks for the comment. Appreciated. There are no lube points without disassembling. That’s why I changed them to sealed bearings

​@campycamperton6679 Our "older" one has small bends and oil tubes that some 3-1 oil drops can be put in but every 3 to 5 yrs needs a disassembly cleaning. I use moly chain lube and a very small plastic tube to hose (over lube) it and run a bit. Switch to Brake Cleaner hose well to degrease the fan with a follow-up oil.

@@markmatt9174 That would be nice. But these cheap attic fan motors come semi-sealed. No way to get oil to the rear sleeve. And front sleeve access is limited so can’t fully oil them without disassembly. So that’s why I just switched to bearings wrapped in elec tape

What does that mean ?

Thanks for the comment

Thanks!

Thank You for the comment. I appreciate it a lot.

Thanks bro