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@@ilia270 you can use any bleach as long as it's the liquid stuff and not the thick bleach

@@joshuafrederiksen I would like to do that too! I wonder if you could sell them for enough to justify the work

@@davidmccauley7068 you could likely get $200 to $300 for an old school shape if it was nice and clean looking etc. I noticed on the one in the video the carbon fiber gets a little messy where the seam is. You could paint the one side where the seam ends up to hide it for a nicer finish.

@@joshkaiser8583 just had baby number 2 hadn't had much time to get to the shop unfortunately...

Gotcha totally understand that one! Congratulations hope you bride and little one are doing well

@@joshkaiser8583 thank you!

@@PartikleVT what do you have planned!?

@@davidmccauley7068 hull designs so far and overall dimensions, 2.3m beam, 5.5m length (possibly longer) so that LWL ends up at 5m, BWL at 0.5m for each hull, giving us a LBR of 10 which is not that fast, but plenty fast. Going with 0.5BWL for each hull so I could possibly fit inboard motors for each side with hopefully jet propulsion. The motors are not decided yet, but are easy to configure after the boat has a shape because I am marinizing my own motors for it. Planning on diesel, like the 1.9tdi vw (that vw marinized as well and sold under vw marine). Now that is probably definitely too big for the full, which is why the hulls need to be tapered, but only above the waterline in order to maintain a LBR of over 8. That way the motors will end up sitting way higher, which im not a huge fan of, but the solution would require a belt drive to the jet anyway, because I am not going to spend money on some hamilton jets, but rather use a jetski jet with a appropriately designed inlet (even though I hate hydrodynamics, but I'm willing to crunch the numbers for this one time) which leads me to a problem, the jetski runs at 7500-8000rpm and diesel motor is 3500-4000. so I need a 1:2 gear ratio, which is quite easily achieved with a heavy duty belt drive. So I'm going to have to introduce said powertrain anyway if I want to use jets in say a monohull, so its actually not a catamaran specific sacrifice at all. There is always the possibility to go with bit wider hulls but that increases the length 10x if I want to maintain the LBR. Given the complicated geometry this leads to, I'm still stuck in CAD with the project. I'm trying to maintain specifically the 2.3m overall beam because of trailer legislation, that being the max width. If not feasible, its not actually a big deal, I do have a property with a waterfront, but it'd need modifications to accommodate a dock. I'm using the catamaran design formulas by Terho Halme in this, those can be found in catamaransite.com. I wanted to ask you about the hull shape, is there a specific reason you ended up with this exact shape, did you use some kind of formula to determine the angles etc.?

oh and given the difficult shapes im going for, I'm probably going to have to divide the plywood structure into triangles for easier bending and shaping

and I just saw aquila have fitted their power cat with a hydrofoil, so we'll see if that ever makes it into the plans, but probably going to build fittings for it so its modular if I ever make one

Yes!

Yes sir!

You can email me at davidmccauley1@yahoo.com

Thanks! Mainly 1 layer of 18 oz on most of the boat, doubled up in some places. I think a wharram of similar size calls for 5mm ply. I think usually just glasses on one side. The real strength comes from the sandwich effect when glassing both sides. But thickness and strength needed is mainly determined by the boat design. The less bulkheads the thicker the material. If it's supported in many areas you can get away with a thinner material. Take a skin on frame canoe for example

@@davidmccauley7068 thank you very much for taking the time to reply. Can’t wait until you upload the next video! Very informative

To resist being pushed to leeward when sailing upwind.

@@davidmccauley7068 thank you

I haven't had that issue but I haven't camped in it below 40°f

It's something I designed

@@davidmccauley7068It says cruising in the title so I assumed sailing but that’s a powerboat hull yes ?

@@redreuben5260 no it it's going to be a sailboat catamaran ketch rigged

@@davidmccauley7068 😯🤔

Feel free to send me some stuff, including a dog respirator! Thanks!

Thanks! It seems to be okay!

I've worked for a couple foundries and did it as a hobby for some time. I plan to do more casting videos in the future

I'll sail down there when it's done haha

Thanks! Glad you're going to follow along! I designed it myself. I don't have professional plans just a lot of sketchbook drawings and a basic 3d model in CAD

@@davidmccauley7068 would you by chance be willing to share the CAD drawings? Also are you from North Carolina?

@@joshkaiser8583 I'm on the east coast of VA what part of NC are you in? I may share them, I'd have to give it some thought.

I've used sodium silicate. It's hard to get it to harden all the way through even with co2. Resin is the way to go IMO. Just wax on the pattern. For the core box I also did a coating of petroleum jelly on top of the wax since it's such a thin piece and didn't want to break it. Yes the pattern and core box has 3 degrees of draft. You will need at least 1 degree but will be much easier to remove with 3-5 degrees because of the layer lines.

@@davidmccauley7068 A place to start...thanks. :)

Thanks for the tip!

I don't weigh it out I just do it by eye, just want the sand to look slightly wet. I'll bump it up for cores or thin molds that im worried about breaking

@rudycandu1633 there is a link in the description of the resin I use (src model pro.) You have to work with it quick as it sets up fast which I like cause you can turn out molds faster. They also sell a slow version if you want more time. Thanks for watching!

@@davidmccauley7068 Thanks for the info. Good to know it isn't that critical. I'll need to try this.

@@rudycandu1633 to little and the sand falls apart, too much and it's just smokes more. Better to aire on the liberal side of amount of resin

It's been so long I don't really remember but that is the only chemical I ordered from Caswell, so it was at whatever concentration they sent it to me as. I don't think I diluted it. But I do not recall exactly

Thanks, let me know if there's anything you want me to cover in a future video!

@@davidmccauley7068 Have you experimented with mixing dyes to get a specific color you want? Would love to see that. And if you are really feeling adventurous a gradient between two colors, but that is something that I don't even know where to begin with.

Lowes!

​@davidmccauley7068 I can never understand people who didn't use a proper plan to end up with a half decent result. You've got some ugly dog legs there.

The fingers on the steady rest aren't fully touching the barrel causing it to wobble, once the reamer hits it it centers

Only doing barrels on markers that come in for anodizing. Thanks!

@davidmccauley7068 well I'll hit you up on MCB for some ano too!

Will do. Thank you!

Thank you! Good point. The boat will never be going very fast.

I will be adding thickness, I want to add more glass to cover screws after attaching. And the bi directional is expensive, I am doing this on a budget. And am confident it will be plenty strong. Thanks for watching and following along!!!

@davidmccauley7068 the screws can be removed they won't add any more strength to the repair, a doubler inside will do far more. On the other hull and anywhere else do the stringers first, that gives you more glue area and fastener locations. Then do the skin

What thickness of ply did you use on your jarcat? And what glass schedule?

@davidmccauley7068 , hull ply was 3.6mm/ 4mm, and bridge deck was 12mm. Glass was 8 Oz on the hulls to 100mm above the chines, and over the bridge deck underneath, and in the cockpit. They are very lightly built, I built mine in 1984, sold it 14 months later after getting married. I believe it is still sailing , and it was the first of several boats I built.

Thanks! Still own any of them?

I've decided I'm going to make more anodizing videos, let me know if theres any topic/subject you'd like to see

​@@davidmccauley7068Maybe something on anodized letters on a paintball marker

Thanks! Where do you live?

@@davidmccauley7068 Southern California

@@MatthewWright-y9t wish I was in socal 😪

8:07 😳I'd make a fake finger for that process.

Yeah but that defeats the purpose of making it light!

That was the idea. Thanks!

You just dye over the bare metal. So you have to dye across the color wheel, otherwise you'll just end up with brown

@@davidmccauley7068 thank you!

Thanks man! Process wont work without the lab coat!