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This is a much better solution than the lead alloy fixing method. I suggested to Dominic Chinea that he used a modern polymer over the lead. I believe Ranalah used lead for no other reason than two part polymers werenot available when those tools were manufactured , and also that they did not have machinery to bore the large frame castings to produce a proper mechanical fitment. You can easily de-gas the epoxy before pouring it. Put the mixed resin in a suitable container and apply vacuum. You can use a jam jar with a tubing fitting fitted to the lid. A better choice would be a hard grade of two part polyurethane resin as used in bushings. This has a small amount of deformation that resists cracking and peeling away from the metal parts it bonds to , and it is designed to bond extremely well to metal. The urethane can be melted out if rework is necessary , epoxy does not melt and would need to be chiselled out

Good video, I am surprised by the Laminate floor in a metal work shop?

Looks like fun, love it.

First off, it's a wheeling machine or wheel. Unless you are American.

Always liked English Wheels , I’m looking for a small cast ones from England . I’m looking on line and I can’t seem to find them .

Absolutely incredible work ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

cracking video shame brad pitt didn’t turn up. when’s the next video coming out !!!

You are asking for trouble having a laminated floor In a workshop ,that's an no go

Belzona

Beautiful job. Please keep the videos coming.

Except for sentimental purposes why risk damage to the casting when modern bedding materials such as Chockfast are far superior?

How about using anchor resin - Rawlplug or Fischer

absolute masterclass. great work!

damn you're good

I'm gonna get you some subs on reddit cos this was really good, glad John Cena showed up shame Brad Pitt couldn't make it though...

Could you educate us on how you came to assign genders to each of these parts and how many genders you could have chosen from?

The original looks modified to get more camber or Caster. are you going to position the turret to emulate that? or just back to OEM?

Nice work! Made it look easy!

Thanks I did enjoy this, great video, I think your channel is going to go places!

Well accomplished job, and what a great car! 🤩I have owned several 02s, my daily driver for many years was a 1502 fitted with a 4cyl 320i engine 😬

Great job! How much for 2 plates? 😅

Truly amazing !!

Great solution. What kind of epoxy did you use?

That is a really interesting video, thanks for taking so much trouble. I'm not sure I agree with some of the comments below about using modern adhesive. Lead/babbit has a different reaction to stress. The same problem allies to older vehicles that have babbit bearings for the crankshaft. Modern shell bearings have no empathy whereas babbit is less stressful to steel parts. I would welcome anyone else's opinion.

Thete are better Adhesives than a 2 Part Epoxy available....Industrial Adhesives are 2 Part too but come in a tube setup that while requiring a special dispenser are still a good option in cases like this...They sell adhesives designed to adhere strongly to metal components and will be stronger and longer lasting in most cases... basically as strong as a welded repair if done as instructed ( proper preperation and cleaning etc...).. these systems are used in many applications where strength and holding power are needed... Automotive and Commercial Industrial suppliers can help you find the proper product..as will a simple Search Online....

Adhesive would be a simpler and less messy repair... lots of brands can adhere your parts solidly and probably stronger than lead....also the risk of heating ( and the cooling ) which could crack your cast parts....not wirth the risk...and save your paint too.... old ways worked but are Old Ways that are not the only options nowadays....will wait to see your solution.

very good video. when’s the next one coming out!

Sorry don't want to sound rude but the sound quality on both videos is so bad I just can't watch....looked interesting tho

Your audio SUCKS. You first need to hang flags, pillow covers or sheets in the overhead to help with the echoes. Also a remote mike works wounders.

You used a 3/4 inch BSW tap. Was the original 5/8-11 BSW? I’m trying to replace the threaded rod on my Ranalah as it is too short and it binds.

Better to mex in flox or/and silica.

So glad you're doing your bit to save a craft that is on the endangered list. 👍

One of the properties of printers' type metal is that it does not shrink when it transitions from liquid to solid form on cooling. This is due to the presence of antimony. Babbitt metal, as used by Dom, is a similar lead-based alloy which also contains antimony and presumably does not shrink either. Is it possible that your Ranalah had been repaired in the past with a common-or-garden tin/lead solder instead?

You simply MUST acquire a wireless microphone. The audio really suffers in the open, hard surface shop setting.

Can hardly hear you. 😞

*- google(DOT)com/search?q=BABBIT+CASTING+PUTTY as a pad at the bottom.* *- This special putty material acts as a sealant/dam to stop leakage when casting bearings.* *- It probably would have worked to stop the lead {babbit} from flowing out at the bottom.*

Thanks for posting up the video. Your audio needs work but hopefully you can improve on that. Subbed.

The use of lead to set these parts was a bad design from the beginning. Why persist with it? Modern urethane resins would be far superior and more durable.

why didn't you just hire Dom's jig and redo the Babbitt