Відео

@@jutukka you can also buy a new JCM800 or JTM. Seems to be the better investion nowadays. I know exactly what and why I'm doing the things the way I do. I would not encourage anyone to do it the way I do. Enough out there pretending to do things much better and much more reliable than Fender or Marshall did of which the amps lasted only 60 or 70 years. And I haven't got the deep sonor voice of truth...

@@MrJLobster I of course have amps using tube rectifiers, and I never, for many reasons, mod them to use ss rectifier, because I have a bunch of NOS Miniwatt GZ34's etc. But when I have built new tube amps and tube reverbs etc., I haven't used tube rectifiers any more for many years because IMHO there is no good reasons to use them anymore. P.S. Your videos are excellent and very enjoyable to watch. 👍

@@jutukka Thanks for your comments. Fender also skipped the rectifiers on a bunch of reissue amps like the vibrolux 68 for example and they sound just fine... so you´re right it is not the rectifier that forms the sound of an amp...but they do glow nicely ... when you can afford it...

it it yes. Thanks for watching!

Oh yes man! Done this my whole live... as a tech assessor. Can´t get rid of it know. This can drive you crazy. No matter the amp is totally quiet now. God forbid the coupling caps to get leaky before I get leaky myself....

Hallo! The Schematics on 04:04 and part list at 03:11 is all I got. There maybe has to be some experimentations to be expected so..Take care, good luck!

Thank´s for your comment! Glad you found my channel AND watched until the end!

Thanks for your comments! I do not believe everything the internet says about valve technics.... haha.... the exact opposite has been shown in my first experiments with this EZ setup. The 47uF was not enough. Has something to do with the two diodes in the artificial center tap of the so called half wave rectifier setup. Works fine so far. I would recomment the longer reverb time can.

Oh man this sounds dissapointing... it's a shame for Hagstroem because the concept is actually really great.

thanks for your credit´s man! My English skills are at least worrying, so hopefully some background music will disguise the whole thing a bit....

@@MrJLobster, turn on the captions!

So keep it and enjoy it from time to time! Good luck!

This seems to be the value how it would have been used in the original Fender unit with a 6K6. Make shure you got the 12aT7 in the right position (input). Be aware that the new circuit uses much higher voltage at the EL844 anode (which is a good thing) and I used a tube rectifier with lower B+ at the anode. We do not know if anything else is changed. Could also be an other reverb transformer in this kit now.. Good luck

@MrJLobster I biased EL844 to 5,5W (with stock value 2,5W) and now i am getting much more drip than before so i am happy.

Congratulations to@@MrSalefish! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Those both resistors should preferably be connected directly to the EL84 socket grid pin with shortest possible wiring. No long wires. Or if not possible, use a separate 1k5 grid stopper resistor for EL84, again connected directly to the socket's grid pin using shortest possible lead wire. That 220k as a grid leak resistor is itself very normal value for EL84. Many people who try to build a replica of that Fender reverb make it oscillator, if they don't understand importance of lead dress and grid stoppers.

Thanks for your comment! I´ve wired in the missing standby switch later at the end. It was dearly needed in this case - so if you plan on making your own one - don´t skimp on that one!

Thanks for your comment and your added knowledge! The problem cured itself after a while. In addition I shorted all the soldered wire strains at the rectifier tube solder lugs to bare minimum be completely flush around the lugs and bend them to get maximal air clearance to another. Could have had possibly an effect I´m not shure but the sparks in the rectifier tubes are long gone...

Thanks for commenting! Have good fun with your music!

Thanks for commenting! Thanks for your interest!

of course you can! Any vintage Standard cover in any color should work well... Thanks for commenting!

thank you for commenting!

Hi, there was a plastic bushing inside the block which was secured with an allen screw on the backside of the tremblock If I remember it correctly. Holding the bar is friction based.

No that wouldn´t be very meaningful apart from discovering a fatal short to grid or an open heater filament.

thanks for your comment! ..thats a good question. Apart from the chassis parts I had lying around I invested around 140€ for the essential parts. The big resistors and things like tube sockets and switches and quiet a bit of shipping fees not included. So I think it was not cheap. I would definitely recommend to install a heater standby switch... which I had non at the time but I installed it afterwards. So good luck, have fun diy and take care !

It depends on which part of the world you live in. If you live in usa it should be possible to get a quality kit from elsewhere. Living in europe (which real marshalls are comming from btw.) the TT Kit is a good option. Why? All parts from Europe NO parts from china. JJ tubes are from CZ. The chinese had once good tubes now all the factories seems to have closed. Russian tubes shouldn´t get on the market or should be banned... the word is getting more and more complicated. Good Luck Take Care!

Yes, good practice! But we should not forget that we do not allways use one pedal in one particular place or all alone...

yes, but then it would be nice a comparison with a buffer before or after on each, just saying, like swapping the pedals in regards on the same place on a pedalboard. Looking forward to do some of your mods.@@MrJLobster

Thanks for your comment!@@ohmuseek4290 If you have a Bd 2 you would use it in the first position because that's where it best shows off its merits. If you have a vintage TS 9 or a SD 1on the other hand you wouldn´t place it in front of the row because their buffers are less effective. But after all it depends mostly on the things BEFORE the pedals... volume pot resistance, volume pedal, cable length, pickups types, tone capacitors, plugs and the listening habit of the player. In general I would say there is nothing much worse than it used to be anymore in the guitar word nowadays and often the rule seems to be the other way around - the better it get´s the worse it sounds... Sorry but I´m an old guy and what you may define as vintage was once brand new in my life and we used it without thinking and it was terrific as it was... We played noisy low output fender pickups through inferior cables corroded plugs into a once new and now crappy buffered 1981 SD 1 pedal into a JCM800 with totally unmatched output tubes into ear piercing G12m75 speakers and where thrilled about what we could do with this things... Things have changed - so Rock On!

@@ohmuseek4290 I'll leave that to you to find out ;-) These are not too serious modifications that could no longer be undone. Give it a try and post a video of it. What can happen apart from real experience? So good luck!

Unfortunately not but I think its possible to take a screenshot in Full screen mode and make a printout. Thanks for your comment! Take care of you!

the controllable range of the pot will be a little more restricted but with the ability to dive somewhat deeper into the hall of church....ess..ess...es..es..

@@MrJLobster not sure if I'll go 470 or 220 so I will probably run a test first. Thanks for the upload, you are a saviour!

@MrJLobster I am thinking of adding an on-off switch or a latching stomp switch so I can choose between the unmodified and modified sounds. How should I do it? Do I just attach a wire to one of the two pins on the PCB (where you placed the resistor), that wire goes into one of the two pins of the switch, and on the other pin I add the resistor which ultimately goes into the other pin on the PCB? Does that sound right, do I have to do something differently?

@@Gekiko7167 - That's exactly how I would do it yes. I would recommend to add a small blub of hot glue to the resistor and the lead preventing it from rattling around. Good Luck!

that's pretty cool

@@songshineoriginalmusic thank you :) I really should do some videos on this stuff sometime but I been really slow with that part for many reasons. But I really like this system and those who see and hear it in real life is very impressed too. I always loved tubes

Thanks! ..thought about that but came up with an other solution. I think it would have been possible. However the dimentions of the pegheads are not identical as I found out. In particular the position of the saddle to the tuners differs quiet a bit.

The resistor is only necessary if you are using the potentiometer of the exp electronic because it has another resistance. Good luck!

@@MrJLobster Just a regular A25K EMG compatible passive pot.... thanks for the explanation!

Because I had some nice NOS EL34´s in spare....