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Joseph Medcalf
Приєднався 11 гру 2017
I make leather goods for people but also teach people how to make leather goods so they don’t need to buy my leather goods 💼
+ a bit of men’s fashion
+ a bit of men’s fashion
11 Shoe Constructions Ranked from Worst to Best | Ultimate Guide for Men
joseph_medcalf02?igsh=bm5qc2N5d3JkMmJr&
www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf
Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:18 11. Cemented Construction
1:07 10. Opanka Construction
1:22 9. Bologna/Sacchetto Construction
1:45 8. Moccasin Construction
2:19 7. Brass Screw Wire Construction
3:11 6. Blake Stitch Construction
4:32 5. Stitch Down/Veldtschoen Construction
5:26 4. Norwegian Stitch, Storm Welt and Norwegian Storm Welt Construction
6:32 3. Blake Rapid Construction
7:19 2. Hand Welt Construction
8:32 1. Goodyear Welt Construction
10:01 Conclusion
In this video I’m going to be ranking 11 different shoe constructions from worst to best. I’ll be ranking them based on advantages, disadvantages, durability and how easy they are to resole. Hopefully this video gives you the information you need, so when you’re looking at a pair of shoes you know exactly what you’re getting. Let’s begin
www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf
Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:18 11. Cemented Construction
1:07 10. Opanka Construction
1:22 9. Bologna/Sacchetto Construction
1:45 8. Moccasin Construction
2:19 7. Brass Screw Wire Construction
3:11 6. Blake Stitch Construction
4:32 5. Stitch Down/Veldtschoen Construction
5:26 4. Norwegian Stitch, Storm Welt and Norwegian Storm Welt Construction
6:32 3. Blake Rapid Construction
7:19 2. Hand Welt Construction
8:32 1. Goodyear Welt Construction
10:01 Conclusion
In this video I’m going to be ranking 11 different shoe constructions from worst to best. I’ll be ranking them based on advantages, disadvantages, durability and how easy they are to resole. Hopefully this video gives you the information you need, so when you’re looking at a pair of shoes you know exactly what you’re getting. Let’s begin
Переглядів: 356
Відео
Why I Like to Dress Well | And Why You Should Too
Переглядів 707Місяць тому
joseph_medcalf02?igsh=bm5qc2N5d3JkMmJr& www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf Chapters 0:00 Introduction 0:11 1. Confidence 0:59 2. Respect for Yourself and Others 1:47 3. Modesty 2:04 4. First Impression 2:34 5. Understanding Etiquette 5:31 6. Pleasant 5:40 7. Dressing Timeless 5:55 8. It’s More Than Just Clothing 6:19 Conclusion
10 Men’s Fashion Essentials That Won’t Go Out of Style
Переглядів 1,2 тис.Місяць тому
joseph_medcalf02?igsh=bm5qc2N5d3JkMmJr& www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf These 10 men’s fashion item’s won’t go out of style anytime soon Chapters 0:00 Introduction 0:15 1. Button Up Shirt 0:36 2. Blazer/Sports Jacket 0:59 3. Chinos 1:20 4. Leather Shoes 1:59 5. Leather Belt 3:16 6. Tie 3:41 7. Quarter Zip 4:05 8. Flight Jacket 4:29 9. Peacoat 4:39 10. Jeans 4:59 Conclusion
Carmina Tassel Loafers 1 Year Review | Are They Worth It?
Переглядів 253Місяць тому
Tassel Loafers: www.carminashoemaker.com/tassel-loafers-black-boxcalf-80367 joseph_medcalf02?igsh=bm5qc2N5d3JkMmJr& www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf I’ve had these Carmina Tassel loafers for over a year and in this video I’ll be discussing style, comfort, durability, shoe care, price, pros and cons and rate these out of 10. Also if you like this content be sure to like and subscribe....
5 Ways to Upgrade Your Style as a Man
Переглядів 4132 місяці тому
Here are 5 ways to upgrade your style as a man joseph_medcalf02?igsh=bm5qc2N5d3JkMmJr& www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf Chapters 0:00 Introduction 0:09 1. Ironing Clothes 0:47 2. Leather Shoes 1:28 3. Leather Wallet 1:47 4. Sunglasses and Watch 2:24 5. Layer Your Clothing 3:00 Conclusion
Are Retro RM Williams Boots BETTER Than Modern RM Williams Boots? Answer: Yes
Переглядів 7392 місяці тому
Are a pair of retro R.M. Williams boots better compared to todays? joseph_medcalf02?igsh=bm5qc2N5d3JkMmJr& www.tiktok.com/@josephmedcalf Chapters 0:00 Introduction 0:08 How to Date R.M. Williams 1:10 Retro vs Modern Appearance 4:09 Cutting Open the Boots 4:21 Inside the Retro Boots 7:09 Thickness of the Leather 7:39 Comparing to Modern R.M. Williams Boots 8:01 Which is Better? 8:4...
8 Moral Problems With James Bond as a Christian
Переглядів 612 місяці тому
James Bond is a character that is looked up to as a man who has style, elegance, skills, gadgets and charisma. Many men will look to his style and attitude to replicate. Not to mention the fashion pieces worn by James Bond are very desirable. However, is James Bond really a man that is admirable, well in this video I’ll be discussing the moral problems with James Bond. joseph_medc...
How to Clean, Condition and Polish Shoes | Beginner Shoe Care Guide
Переглядів 5282 місяці тому
How to Clean, Condition and Polish Shoes | Beginner Shoe Care Guide
RM Williams Comfort Craftsman 5 Year Review | Are They Worth it?
Переглядів 1,8 тис.3 місяці тому
RM Williams Comfort Craftsman 5 Year Review | Are They Worth it?
Adidas Samba OG Review | I Rate Them Out of 10
Переглядів 8903 місяці тому
Adidas Samba OG Review | I Rate Them Out of 10
My VERY Versatile Shoe Collection 2024
Переглядів 2074 місяці тому
My VERY Versatile Shoe Collection 2024
Worldwide IT Outage: Microsoft Outage Impacts Banks, Businesses and Media
Переглядів 424 місяці тому
Worldwide IT Outage: Microsoft Outage Impacts Banks, Businesses and Media
23 Military Clothing and Accessories That Influenced Men’s Fashion
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23 Military Clothing and Accessories That Influenced Men’s Fashion
Leathercraft Course 12/12: The Art of Machine Stitching
Переглядів 1275 місяців тому
Leathercraft Course 12/12: The Art of Machine Stitching
Leathercraft Course 11/12: The Sewing Machine (Care and Maintenance)
Переглядів 685 місяців тому
Leathercraft Course 11/12: The Sewing Machine (Care and Maintenance)
Leathercraft Course 10/12: The Minimalist Wallet
Переглядів 1445 місяців тому
Leathercraft Course 10/12: The Minimalist Wallet
Leathercraft Course 8/12: Pattern Making 3/3
Переглядів 895 місяців тому
Leathercraft Course 8/12: Pattern Making 3/3
Leathercraft Course 9/12: Prototyping Projects
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Leathercraft Course 9/12: Prototyping Projects
Leathercraft Course 8/12: Pattern Making 2/3
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Leathercraft Course 8/12: Pattern Making 2/3
Leathecraft Course 8/12: Pattern Making 1/3
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Leathecraft Course 8/12: Pattern Making 1/3
Leathercraft Course 7/12: How to Burnish Leather Edges
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Leathercraft Course 7/12: How to Burnish Leather Edges
Leathercraft Course 6/12: The Corner Stitch
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Leathercraft Course 6/12: The Corner Stitch
Leathercraft Course 5/12: The Art of Hand Stitching Leather
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Leathercraft Course 5/12: The Art of Hand Stitching Leather
Leathercraft Course 4/12: Preparing Leather for Hand Stitching
Переглядів 1205 місяців тому
Leathercraft Course 4/12: Preparing Leather for Hand Stitching
Hey, thanks for the tutorial! The link provided for the pattern doesn't work. Any chance you might have it available somewhere else? Thanks
Gotta sharpen it
Thank you for this video! Shoes with Goodyear construction give me a peace of mind. :) Although, when shoe makers then pair Goodyear-welted shoes with a rubber outsole that is without any visible stitching, I guess that's cemented and I do wonder if that rubber outsole can be replace easily and effectively. Anyway, I digress! This video is very informative and straight to the point, which I appreciate. :)
You’re welcome, thank you for the kind words. I think most cheap cemented shoes can’t be resoled. But you could just ask a cobbler.
@@Josephmedcalf0 I agree with you!
Ain't bad at all mister ✨👞👍
what was the oil used ?
@@karimsamy96 heritage oil by Artisan’s Son
@@Josephmedcalf0 thank you so much
Hey, man! Thanks for the great lesson! I've made a few things over the past three months and I'm looking to improve. I'll practice this lesson before my next project. Can't wait to watch the rest of your videos! ✌️
Thank you, I’m glad it was helpful for you. I have a bunch of leathercraft videos that will help you
Can i get the pattern? The link doesnt work.
Unfortunately I have closed my website
Just slight correction. The heel is nailed but around the vamp is brass threaded wire. Special machine push wire through sole vamp and insoles, onto a steel anvil to make it flatten out. Harold boots still do this on some models. I like it. The brass wire can easily be flattened out.
So you go from an 8 to 5 based on someone else's review, even though you self confessed you love them? Lol ok 🥴
Unfortunately yes, even though they are amazing looking shoes and I really do like them the build quality with so much foam and board does not justify the price that’s why they went from 8 - 5. Also there has been much complaining from people that their quality has dropped off over time and I also did a review on some retro RM Williams boots and compared them to the modern boots. You’re more than welcome to watch that video.
@@Josephmedcalf0 You do realise there's the original Craftsman and then there's the Comfort Craftsman, right? They still make both, you know you can still buy both designs, right? The leather is slightly thinner (not much) on the comfort craftsman for that very reason, to be softer and wear in almost instantaneously, you don't have to buy the Comfort Craftsman, you know that, right? They were designed as a more comfortable shoe which you can't obtain simply using leather. RM Williams aren't trying to hide anything, they are open about the materials used, it's simply a different design, also in saying that, the material used for the comfort craftsman is of extremely high quality, albeit it's not leather (for obvious reasons) the very same reasons Nike don't use leather soles on basketball shoes. The real question is, how do you propose they are to make a comfort shoe without using synthetic materials? exactly! The fact you haven't even seemingly thought about this, is quite bizzare for a guy who reviews shoes. Are they worth $649- well that's subjective and based entirely ok how much money someone makes- is a Porsche expensive? To most people yes, to some, not at all
@@Josephmedcalf0 I might add, the reason they made the Comfort Craftsman was because people complained they weren't comfy enough( probably people like you) so my suggestion, go buy the full leather craftsman, then you and Rose Anvil have nothing to complain about 👍 Mate if you're going to do reviews, at least take some time to do some research and get your facts right 🥴 because you're both comparing apples and oranges thinking it's the same boot
@@vanwilder1101I appreciate the feedback
@Josephmedcalf0 Mate, if you're going to do shoe reviews, you need to get your facts right, you haven't. Reviewing a pair of shoes based off someone else's misinformation only compounds how ridiculous your review is. If I were RM Williams I would definitely contemplate suing Rose Anvil for his blatant misinformation, legally they could absolutely butcher him because, not unlike you, have used inappropriate comparisons to mislead the public.
If RM Williams stops sponsoring Hugh Jackman and the likes perhaps the price should decrease. Thanks for your honest review mate !
@@ronnie9103 There's nothing honest about it
Were useful piece of information. Thank you for sharing.
@@wadekbaranowski9966 You’re welcome
Great content. I bought a pair of full leather ankle boots with zip. The insole, body, outsole all made of leather purely + it is goodyear welted. I haven't used it for wearing yet, please suggest me should I precondition the shoe with any cream or wax before first use? Also, how to care for the leather outsole?
I am from India, sending heartiest congratulations to your channel
Thank you, I would condition it and polish it because you don’t know how long they have been sitting on the shelf. I personally like Artisan’s Son hydrating oil and leather conditioner. Even their leather soap is good. You can buy a kit that includes all of those. In terms of shoe cream you can get Saphir. Taking care of the leather sole would be as mentioned in the video. Making sure it heel and toe don’t wear down into the welt and when the sole wears before getting onto the welt get them resoled. You can also ask a cobbler to put a thin piece of rubber on the sole. This will wear down slowly and then you can easily get it replaced. This will help protect the leather sole.
What ink powder did you use?
www.abbeyengland.com/powder-dye-black-d10431 There’s also dark havana and golden brown
All Catholics should dress well. We are all made in the image and likeness of God! Excellent topic.
Interesting video, but dressing “nice” is so subjective- I’ve often been repelled by people who are conforming to convention and attracted to people rebelling against it. I would bet that a lot of people dress more casually now as the awareness grows that it may not always provide concrete benefits and/or that conformity can make the “conformer” feel subservient to certain groups of people.
Sometimes too subjective, that’s interesting I think conformity can be good in certain situations and occasions. Conformity becomes boring when everyone looks the same.
Excellent message I couldn't agree more.
It shows respect for self and for those youre communicating with.
I can't believe how some people dress. It shows they don't care about others or themselves. I have to avert my eyes quite often.
I think some people don’t notice how dressing can affect people. I didn’t notice until someone pointed it out that I dressed like a child. It made me rethink the clothing I wear. I also have to avert my eyes.
I like to dress well. The modern way to dress includes ripped jeans and lop sided tops or baggy jumpers. Surely this can not make anyone feel good about themselves. It is more of a protest
It’s definitely more for comfort, I definitely feel better when I dress well compared to when I dress down.
And the men who wear their trousers (pants) below their pants (underwear)! Makes it hard to run I bet.
@@Josephmedcalf0 Just subbed. Same. Getting on a bit and trying to make the best of what I've got. Dressing well puts a spring in your step, doesn't it? Thank you. God bless.
@@ВиталийСлонов-ч4ъ thank you for subscribing 🙂 that’s okay if you don’t have a lot, start small and build your wardrobe. It definitely puts a spring your in your step. God bless you
Dressing well is good manners and taking care
Rm williams
I thought veg tan leather is longer lasting?
It can be, you just need to make sure you condition it as it can dry out and have less water resistance compared to chrome tanned leather
Black Tuxedo and a Kilt
I’m not bold enough to wear a kilt
Yes, all that hardware! The problem is that buckleguy gives a small discount when you buy more and I think free shipping kicks in at $100. So I may have a customer who wants a particular style of hardware but I end up buying 10 of them
Yeah exactly, it’s good to buy spares just in case you use them. But then the draw piles up. If you’re a business buying bulk hardware is great. I wish I could get free international shipping and if you need one item and the shipping is more than the one item it’s annoying.
A nice watch will stay in style for a long time
I blew the crotch out of my leather gimp suit
All great ideas. I upgraded my style several years ago by simply NOT wearing jeans, t-shirt and sneakers everyday.
It’s amazing how little things can completely change your look. Just swapping a t-shirt for a collared shirt
Wonderful! Love the short and quick videos
Thank you, I try and get straight to the point 😊
yep that’ll do it 😂
Hi Joseph. I'm watching from South Africa 🇿🇦.Thank you so much for this video it's very helpful for beginners like me. I've subscribed I don't want to miss any of your videos.
That’s awesome ☺️ you’re welcome, I’m glad it was helpful 😊
Looking sharp Joseph.
Thanks Steve 😊
What brand is RM? Is it an Aussie brand
Yeah it’s a Australian
It's real pity, these large corporations are never happy until they've milked a brand dry and destroyed the things that made them popular in the first place. It's a terrible short-sighted strategy on the part of Twiggy's Tattarang private investment group. I really hope he doesn't do the same to Akubra, another great brand with an incredible history and great goodwill associated with the brand.
Great video. Rare to see such a vintage pair dissected. Originally (ie from the factory) those would be "brass screw wired", rather than nailed per se. Nailing is not a very sturdy way of building a boot at all. By contrast, BSW (where the leather outsole and insole are screwed together using a threaded brass wire driven by a specialised machine, of which only a few remain - and the brass screw wire itself is only produced by one company located in England!) is one of if not the strongest way to bond a sole ever devised. There is no welt to be damaged, and no sewing thread is relied on; whilst the brass threading is supremely strong. I have a number of old ads for RMs advertising their BSW construction; and ads as recent as 2015 talking about how RMW were one of the few companies still manufacturing using that technique today. I gather they have since abandoned it. Today only three such companies remain in trade: Lastrite Footwear (NZ), Harold Boot Company (Aus), and William Lennon (UK). Brass wire screws look pretty similar to nails at a glance, and have a tendency to protrude from the footbed (like you mentioned) if the machine wasn't calibrated correctly for the thickness of the soles - or if the leather has simply shrunk over time. You mentioned they'd been resoled. Given how rare BSW machines are, if an independent cobbler did it they probably did just use nails. But given there's a topy on the sole, it's not impossible that's the original leather sole with original screwing! Excellent video again and thanks for sharing! Helps preserve part of Australian history.
Thank you for such a in-depth comment. I agree, I think I got some things wrong. Brass wire screws is very interesting, I found a video on them ua-cam.com/video/gqEUnlRKkKo/v-deo.htmlsi=CJ7YuGAftU30EGGw @1:32 It’s sad that a lot of traditional shoe making techniques have disappeared. Can you attach the brass screws with hand tools or do you need a machine? I wonder why RM decided to go with a brass stitch wire instead of the Goodyear welt. I really appreciate the comment it’s opened up a new can of worms to look into.
@@Josephmedcalf0 That is a terrific video, thank you so much for sharing! Good old Neville, he's just retired a couple of months ago. The brass screw wire has to be driven using a machine because, unlike an actual screw, it doesn't have a head you can push on. The threaded wire comes in reels that get fed into the machine that twists it like a drill bit. I can't imagine how you'd be able to get any traction on the wire using hand tools without deforming the threads (and therefore undermining its ability to bolt the leather together!) The main advantage BSW construction has over GYW from the manufacturer's perspective is that it's so quick and easy to do. As you can see in that video, a bolt of wire gets driven every second or so. All you have to do is tack the outsole to the boot and then drive thirty or so wires into it. You can get both boots' soles attached in under ten minutes. GYW on the other hand requires gemming to be glued on, and then you stitch the welt to the gemming, and then you stitch the welt to the outsole. Much more time consuming. Neville also made some gemmed boots for a time (not sure if they were GYW, could have been cemented) and the first time I met him he told me how much of a pain they were to make - tedious, time consuming, and fiddly. All for a less secure construction than the BSW. Somewhere on the William Lennon website they have pictures of their machine with the brass wire spindle visible. It is identical to Neville's one (I believe he had a second one in storage) and probably came from the same factory back in the day!
@@Josephmedcalf0 Probably to make a near indestructible boot that can handle the use they were originally made for. No stitches to pop, dry out or get mouldy.
@@pcarrierorange Fascinating !
@@pcarrierorange That makes a lot of sense, I went on William Lennon website and found a picture of the machine. You could even see the spool of wire. Apparently there’s only 4 machines left.
Post edit: In regard to walking long distances, these shoes are perfectly fine to walk long distances. I found that out after a long day of wearing them. Additionally as you wear in the shoes they don’t dig too much into your achilles heels compared to when you first get them.
Wow! Encountered your channel because I was looking to make a leather belt. Your video on that topic was great so I browsed the rest of your channel. Only 35 views? Your videos are much higher quality than channels that are many times bigger. I like this video as a Christian myself 😊. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much I really appreciate it, the videos do take a long time to record and edit. And the low views can be discouraging when I put a lot of effort in. Your comment definitely lifted me up in encouraging me that my videos can make a difference to someone and that people actually want to watch my content. Thank you ☺️ good luck with the leather belt
RM Williams sold to an investment company, older ones were fantastic, newer one's are garbage, as i found out, started to split after a couple of months, luckily i paid on CC, RM Williams didn't want to know, i took it up with the card company. I replaced them with Ian Harold, different league, quality, construction, wear better and way cheaper.
@@richyclubsport5155 I have a video coming out on Monday where I compare modern RM Williams to a retro pair. I cut the retro pair open to see what they look like on the inside. Spoiler: the retro pair is definitely better than the modern pair. I had a look at Ian Harold, I can’t believe I’ve never heard of them. They look very similar to RM Williams and much cheaper.
Nice.Thanks
Which colour of cream renovatrice to be used on RMs mid brown pull up please?
There is a medium brown one and a light brown one. I’m not sure what would be better suited. If you look on some websites you might be able to see what colour matches the shoes
Thanks. I had a look. I think it's cogniac!
Excellent thanks 🙏
You’re welcome 🙂
That is a FAT knife
Natural soap?
Yes
Doesn't New Zealand have kangaroos?
No they don’t, I had to look that up
I have no idea about anything about shoes all i know is that u wear them in ur feet
@@marvelhq5241 Well at least they’re on your feet
@@Josephmedcalf0 I hope I can learn something
My mother (now 78) still has and wears her BESPOKE RM’s from 1978…
They would look beautiful
Hi, I'm just getting started with leather working, I'm making bible, missal, and liturgical book covers. What kind of leather do you recommend. I keep seeing top-grain, full-grain, and others. It's a bit confusing at times on which one to start with.
Hi, in terms of what leather there are so many options and it really depends on your taste. The first question is do you like a smooth or textured leather? Smooth leathers can scratch more easily such as Buttero, however there are some that are don’t scratch as bad like Wickett and Craig because they put a polyurethane spray over it to help abrasion. If you like pebbles you can go with one of my favourites minerva box however you can get pieces that aren’t consistent which is annoying. These are all vegetable tanned so they’ll burnish. Vegetable tanned leather also patinas. The other option is chrome tanned which will have great scratch resistance and be cheaper however, you won’t be able to burnish it. Another thing is do you want to make more refined covers or more rustic. My Bible and Missal have a textured leather so I would personally go with a pebble leather. With full grain and top grain I did a course where I did discuss those in my introduction to leather course: ua-cam.com/video/g8jXm4YH-eM/v-deo.htmlsi=FD6XOzqB2WQnqlWC You should start with either full grain or top grain leather. The only difference is top grain just has some surface sanded away to make a consistent surface whereas full grain has no altered surface. There is a downside because you see the marks of scaring, scratching, fat lines etc. from the animal. That’s all, it’s not anything too drastic, some people like seeing the natural skin, others wants something more consistent. Either doesn’t change the strength of the leather. I made belts with top grain leather, it was very consistent surface whereas with full grain you see the raw surface which can be annoying if there’s a scar and you need to cut around it. You just want to avoid genuine and PVC/bonded leather.
@Josephmedcalf0 thank you so much for the detailed and helpful response! I got started with some full grain cowhide. I love the smooth feel, and your missal video above has helped me tremendously in getting started. That video alone has helped me get to the stitching point (your hand-stitch video is very helpful too!).
@@TheCatholicChemist33thank you I really appreciate it I’m glad my videos are helpful 🙂
Nice video thank you bro
You’re welcome ☺️
Im too awkward and i need an example of how to naturally ask about family and dreams of you already went through the common groung questions
Just ask Are you from here? do you have family that live locally? Then after you ask them what hobbies they have. You could ask them what goals do they have
I prefer this introduction. Feel free to use it: Hi, I’m Jason and my favorite flavor of crayon is green, which do you prefer?’ Now the weird people will leave you alone and you can get stuck into that bar tab and buffet in peace.
😂 thank you for the advice