Відео

Hi there. This lens is a perspective control lens. It main use is to control converging vertical lines in architectural photography is it not. What do you use yours for? Happy snapping Paul

@@paulhill3575 I know sir, I am a professional photographer for more than 60 years and been using Sinar P2's, Speed Graphics and Calumet 4x5, that's where you learn these things. The correct wording is actually "rise and fall" front (in the PC case). In a proper 4x5 you can also achieve the same effect by rise or lowering the back (film plane) which obviously you cannot do with 35mm or digital DSLR. Furthermore, the lens needs to be able to have enough coverage of the sensor area to prevent vignetting. In large format lenses for the 4x5's, you are able to buy a, lets say 210mm with a certain coverage but also another 210mm with larger coverage. The coverage is a function of lens design. This is a tricky subject to cover in real terms.

Hello again. I'm amateur of 40+ years. My reason for making these amateur videos is purely for fun and to maybe help someone make a choice of camera or lens. It's isn't technical for this reason. Large format cameras are a whole different ball game. I do use medium format but it's slow and large format is even slower to use. I do however bow to your greater knowledge. Happy large format snapping Paul

Hi Caleb, This flashgun does pop, more so on Manual (M) because the gun is releasing all of its power. If you use the auto, MD or TTL settings the pop is less obvious. Hope this helps and enjoy using your new flashgun. best wishes Paul

Hi Metin. my advise to you is to keep your F3. They are a classic cameras. Their value is in what they are, not what they are worth. They are from a bygone era and to keep film photography alive cameras like this must be used. best wishes Paul

Hi there, the old Nikon wired flash is a little cumbersom but fun to use. Try to get hold of an old flash manual, it gives all the possible combinations and part numbers that are compatible. Even though film isn`t as cheap as it used to be it pays to experiment and you still get that old feeling of what worked and what didn`t work. Enjoy your snapping Paul

Hi, Sorry for the delay in replying, I managed to delete you comment somehow. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by this combination, with the flash off to one side red-eye is reduced and if you can get hold of the SC-14 cord it's even better. Enjoy Paul

@paulhill3575 hi thanks for dropping me a message As luck would have it, the flash arrived this morning Have to say its in remarkable shape for its age Nikon really build stuff sturdy Am really looking forward to trying it out And if it's OK will drop a line back here afterwards

@@aarjaycee3601 Hi again. Yep, if you need any help drop me a line. I`m not an expert but I`ll do my best. Happy snapping Paul

Hi crazymetdude. You should indeed be able to use that advance lever. As an indication that the lever is wound on the viewfinder info panel lights up and stays on for several seconds when the shutter button is pressed. If the info panel goes out when you release pressure on the shutter button and you can't advance you have an advance lever problem, if the lever is already advanced you may have a shutter/ shutter button problem. Sounds like you have a sick camera. I know that Leica UK doesn't support these cameras now. Good luck and I hope you can get a good outcome. Best wishes Paul

Hi again David, I think that you may be pushing the capabilities of your flashgun by bouncing it into an umbrella. It might be an idea to experiment because if you set for 2 stops less light you will then lose more light by bouncing your flash. You could always switch to manual and vary the flash distance to the subject, just watch out for unwanted shadows. This is where you could use the (digital)Polaroid cheat. Best of luck and happy experimentation Paul

Hi David, I`ve never used a TLR, I do however have a Bronica ETRSi, lovely camera and it to synchronizes at all shutter speeds. The joy of leaf shutters eh. In answer to your question, indeed it does. You can control the background making it lighter or darker using the shutter speed. Imagine a well lit subject against a broody dark sky. It might be wise to shoot a few test shots to get the flash exposure spot on, or indeed use a digital camera as a polaroid substitute. Remember my video says this technique is to have a well lit background so an increase it flash may be necessary. Hope this was helpful. Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 thanks Paul for prompt reply. Your video extolling the 2 stops from ambient worked so well for me. Think it was 1/250 @ f8 by hand held meter, so set vivitar to orange, f4, 2 stops. Stopped down to f11 and got model's face/ hair etc perfect, darker background. What would change if shutter speed altered. Yours is the only video I have seen explaining "fooling flashead" , Priceless, thanks. Buying Mamiya c330 so leaf shutter/ multi syc and due to it's weight will help with personal fitness?

Hi David, changing the shutter speed will alter the background lighting. faster shutter speed = darker background. slower shutter speed = lighter background. if your original ambient exposure is 1/250 @ f8 and you can synch your flash at 1/500 @f8 the background will be underexposed by one stop. This is where digital cameras with HSS are a boon in bright daylight, medium format cameras with a leaf shutter also offer this feature. it`s worth playing around with a roll of film to see what you like, making notes as you go so you can repeat your best results. Have fun. best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 You are a star Paul. That's the information I needed, on top of your vid about "fooling the flash" Mastered that part, will do some at higher shutter speed now for darker backgrounds. Thanks again, Dave

Hi Carlos, the way mirror lock works on this camera is , you set the lock lever by pushing it away from the lens. The lock lever is on the front of the camera to the right of the lens looking from the front. You wind the film, set the lock lever and push the shutter button. This raises the mirror. You then push the shutter button a second time, this makes the exposure. The camera will stay in mirror lock mode until the lever is returned to the off position. It may be you have left the lever in the on position or not pressed the shutter a second time. Hope this helps Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 still nothing. I don’t think I’m understanding this system. Would please provide an email so can I emailed you a photo of the Leica ?

Hi carlos, if the camera isn`t working as i described it could be that you need to change the battery. If that doesn`t fix the problem then it may be time to ask who you bought the camera off if they`ll get it fixed or at least help with the cost. Hope this helps Best wishes Paul

Please verify the movement of film advance lever move the lever some times and if they are stuck maybe they return to the right position. My R8 doing the same one time and it was the film advance lever who not move completely to the end. This cameras are going age and the mechanism oils and grease becomes tacky, so maybe are your problem. Good luck

Hi There, happy to help. That off camera cord is really useful, well worth seeking out. The F3 is a fantastic camera, and with that flash it should take you outdoor shots to another level, have fun. Happy snapping Paul

Hi Teng, the Nikon f6 is a much newer camera and has many features of a DSLR. My Canon 5D mark 3 synchronizes at these crazy speeds as well, on the other hand my Nikon F3 is only 1\60. just shows how things have advanced in a relatively short time. Whatever you shoot with enjoy every moment, the fun is in learning as many techniques as you can and using them. Happy snapping Paul.

Hi Bringo, The R8/9 cameras use 3cam or ROM lenses made by Leica. The lens I use is a vario-Elmar 28-70 f3.5-4.5 If you use any other type of lens the camera can be damaged, Prime lenses for these cameras are incredibly expensive, this is why I only have one lens for this camera and it`s a zoom, these are affordable. I hope this is helpful Best wishes Paul

Hi GeoS you`re not wrong. Even the 3 cam lenses are expensive. Down to the ROM lenses being compatible with digital I guess. I`d love a 24mm but can`t justify the outlay....maybe one Christmas. Happy snapping Paul

Hi Pulsonar I go for information not pazzaz. As for my voice, I'm a Brummie. We all talk like that. If there's any information that you need I'll be happy to help. Happy shooting Paul

@@paulhill3575 You delivered the information, so job done. It’s got nothing to do with the Brum accent, my nerdy cousins in Handsworth have stronger accents than you and can hold a captive audience about some dry elementary principle in a dog-eared physics book. I could listen to Noddy Holder, Ozzy and many other native Brum or Black Country personalities for hours. It’s more about the lack of passion and energy, especially for one of the unsung heroes in the Leica back catalogue. I didn’t expect cartwheels and American style presentation exuberance. But to me you came across like a govt information film narrator from the 1970s, but that’s just me. There are many much worse on YT, and I probably present no better than you, but doesn’t prevent me from speaking my mind and giving some hopefully positive critique.

Hi Greg, You`re right, this lens does need care in use. A Tripod or at least a monopod is recommended, or use the old rule of thumb. The same or faster shutter speed as the focal length, however at f8 it can be difficult to achieve 1/500 sec. It all adds to the fun though. Have fun shooting with your new lens. Best wishes Paul

Hi Fahriza, the cable you mentioned,as far as I can tell was used to attach a Metz 45 or 60 flashgun to the F3. It has no use with the SB16A or B. Those Metz flashguns were the choice of many professional photographers in the 1990`s and early 2000`s, and are well worth looking out for. Hope this was helpful. Best wishes Paul

Hi AntPDC, Your right , this lens does have a massive image circle. It also has a large front element so be careful. I have managed to get a lens hood, a HN-9 which is about the size of a small frizby, it offers some protection to that front element and is needed for tricky lighting. I hope you enjoy your new lens when it arrives. Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 Thank you Paul. It arrived with a fitted Nikon NC 72mm filter, so I'm pleased about that. Looking forward to using it! Best wishes.

Hi Francisco, While you are correct in stating that both the R8 and R9 have a normal synch speed of 1/250, in bright conditions, i.e. outside the SF58 and the R9 allow shutter speeds over 1/250. hence HSS. Check it out, HSS is available by using the menu on the SF58. Hope this is useful as synchro sun it now possible using larger apertures. Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 Thanks! I ordered an R9 (it's coming all the way from Germany) and I'll play with it as well. For now, I think I'm going to load my R8 and figure out the use of the SF-58 better.

@@SolaresLarrave1 Sounds like a plan, have fun. Best wishes Paul

Hi there Bro Harry, happy to help. Happy snapping Paul

Hi there, Hope the video was helpful, however I`d recommend downloading a copy of the manual especially if you intend to use a dedicated flashgun. Best wishes and happy shooting Paul

Hi there Guy. I`m afraid that the Nishika N8000 is a camera that i`m not familiar with, however i`ve looked at photos of the camera and it appears to have a standard hot shoe. if you were to try this flash on your camera you would need the SB16B which has the AS9 foot. Nishika make a flash that outwardly looks similar to the Nikon unit but looking at the foot of the flashgun, it has no TTL contacts, this might be worth a try. Unless you have a Nikon system or are thinking of investing in a Nikon system I`d be tempted to buy a basic auto/manual flashgun off ebay to try it out. on the Nishika camera the SB16 would really offer no advantage over such a flash. Hope this is helpful even though I couldn`t really offer any pertinent advice. Thanks for the heads up on this camera though, I thought 3D film photography was long dead. Happy snapping Paul

Hi Plasma D`Lite this lens will indeed work with a Nikon FM2n. I had one of the original FM cameras many years ago, i remember the noise of the slow shutter speeds...fantastic cameras. Enjoy your shooting baest wishes paul

Hi Cecilia. These flash units are now only available second hand. You could try Ebay which is where I purchased mine. It came boxed with all the accessories seen in the video. In the UK you could try Greys of Westminster, they have a massive selection of all things Nikon. Good luck with your search. Best wishes Paul

Hi Cecilia. You could try EBAY that`s where I got mine from or a specialist Nikon deal may be good to try. In the UK Grays of Westminster have a wide stock of pre-digital equipment as do many other major photo shops. Be quick though film is making a comeback and prices are on the rise. I hear that canon and Nikon are looking at manufacturing film cameras again......it`s all good. Best wishes Paul

Hi Christophe. good call, Metz made a range of flashguns that are suitable for the F3. At the time they were very expensive so I bought an Osram Studio s440 for the FE2 that I had back in the late 80`s early 90`s. This flashgun had an SCA adapter available but I`m not sure if the SCA344 works with it, I may get one to find out. Thanks for the input, its good to be reminded of things that have passed into history(almost) it helps keep these out cameras alive. Best wishes Paul

I use nowadays Metz 45 cl4 digital with a Canon eos 5dIII 😀 works with all New functions as hss or mémorisation. Very powerfull and unsurpassed when bouncing !

Hi Gabriel, The SB16 came in two flavours, the SB16A and the SB16B. The SB16A fit straight into the F3 and gives TTL, two auto apertures and full manual. The SB16B is for standard hot shoe Nikon cameras and gives the same options. The foot of the flashgun is however interchangeable, the F3 foot is the AS8, standard hot shoe is the AS9. This is useful if you have an F3 and say an FE2 or similar. Hope this helps. Best wishes Paul

Paul Hill Thanks Paul, I’ll be acquiring a Nikon F3 from Japan on the next few weeks, and I wanted to know which flash foot adapter was worth buying - If any - for the F3, because I love flash photography. Would you recommend any flash adapter that could, for example, allow me to use a new and more acessible nikon flashgun? Or do you really recommend going for the SB16, even tough I’m a amateur photographer?

Hi again Gabriel. I reckon you'd be better of using an SB16. This gun integrates with the F3 system and has plenty of options as I mentioned earlier. If you use a modern gun most of its functionality would be lost including TTL on most adaptors I believe. If you want a comprehensive overview of Nikon F3 system check out MIR nikon. Trust me you'll be amazed at this font if knowledge. Hope this helps Best wishes Paul

Hi Aui P these cameras are indeed pretty, they also give good result if you take time to get used to how they work. I can highly recommend either the auto focus version or the manual version. Sorry for the delay in replying. best wishes Paul

Hi John. happy to help. Just goes to show that outdated kit still works well, even on more modern gear. Saves a fortune as well. Best wishes and happy shooting Paul

Thanks for that Chris. I use Canon digital and therefore I'm not up to speed on Nikon digital. It's good to know that this older equipment is still usable on newer gear, it still quality equipment. Best wishes Paul

Hi eladbari, your SB10 cannot be fitted directly to a Nikon F3, however you may be able to get a secondhand AS4,AS7 or AS17 to adapt this Flash gun for use on an F3. You will however have to control the flash output manually of use the auto settings on the gun itself. I you use an SB17 or SB16A on the F3 camera TTL is available with the flash mounted on the hotshoe, the SC14 cable will give TTL control off the camera. Sorry if my video was confusing, I tend to do them off the cuff and unscripted but hope I`ve cleared up an issues. Hope this has been helpful Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 hey Paul! Thank you for the kind response! I have a Nikon FE + FE2 + F100. All I wanna do is be able to use flash in the simplest way possible. Like you have Aperture priority mode- which takes a big load off your mind (compared to exposing fully manually) - i hope there's also a way to set & forget flash and just start shooting. Please, Paul, take it from here. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks 😊

@@eladbari Hi again. OK the S10 was designed to be used with the FE (no TTL) but can be used with your other two cameras as well without TTL. The best way to use this set up indoors is set the flash speed on the camera unless it sets it automatically, set the aperture on the camera, focus then set the aperture on the flashgun appropriate to the distance on the lens. Hope this was helpful Paul

@@paulhill3575 Thank you for this! I still don't understand the workflow, though: 1. "set the flash speed on the camera (unless it sets it automatically)" - The only controls on the camera are shutter speed + aperture + ISO. So what is a "Flash speed" exactly? 2. "set the aperture on the camera"- Ok, that I understand. 3. "focus then set the aperture on the flashgun appropriate to the distance on the lens." - I don't understand. What decides my aperture opening? Is it the flashgun who decides it? Or is it me deciding what aperture i wanna shoot on my lens [and then i match that number on my flashgun]. I was just confused that you mixed aperture size with distance... Hope you can explain again, or send a video link to an english tutorial if you ever saw one :) Thanks Paul!

@@eladbari Hi again. Ok, try this. Set your FE to auto, you flash or synch speed is set by the camera to 1/90 second. Now you need to focus on your subject then you choose from the two apertures on the SB10 the most appropriate one to use, in this case f4 2ft-20 or f8 2ft to10ft. The flash controls light output and cut off, you can literally then just focus and shoot, f4 for subject further away, f8 for closer subjects. just make sure that you set the same film speed on both the camera and the flash gun. Hope this is helpful Best wishes Paul

Hi there , just to so we`re clear, I assume that you won`t be using the SB 21 macro flash with an umbrella? To shoot through an umbrella it may be best to use an SB 16 as this is much more powerful. The technique I describe uses the two auto settings on the flashgun, if you use manual on the gun you`ll need to use the guide number method , ie: guide number/distance=F stop. The computer dial on the flashgun is a useful guide. Shooting through an umbrella depends on how much light from the flash is absorbed, you`ll have to experiment. Do you really need an umbrella? Fill flash is only used to fill shadows and/or put a point of light in eyes in bright outside conditions but I guess the softer the better for more natural looking lighting. Hope this helps and happy shooting all the best Paul

Hi ugly boy. It's nice to know that old lenses like this can be used on new digital cameras, I use it on an old F3. Old Nikkor lenses are so of the best ever made, if slightly radio active, giving them a new lease of life should be encouraged. Enjoy Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 I haven't seen it on the list of radioactive lenses. Do you have reason it does use TO?

Hi Sreenivas, I'm not sure but I don't think Nikon have changed their lens mount size just the electrical contacts. So assuming I'm correct you have a fixed aperture f8. So manual and aperture priority only and manual focus. I use Canon DSRLs now and so I'm not 100% on Nikon DSRLs. It's a great lens that I use on my F3 and would recommend it. Have fun using it. All the best Paul

Hi Robert The filter size for this lens is 82mm, this is the N version. Earlier C versions apparently used an 88mm filter. Hope this helps Paul

Hi Harinder There's a diffuser available which should come with the kit. If shooting closer than 40cm (I think) this needs to be attached to the front of the flash unit. Experimentation is the way to go I guess. Hope this is helpful. Happy shooting Paul.

@@paulhill3575 I have the diffuser but still flash is outputting too much light even stopping my lens down to f16. Problem is it become too dark if I stop down my lens and it is hard to focus and then flash is too powerful, and washing out the whole image. I am not sure what is a saluting to that, Thanks

Hi there Harjinder, This unit is designed for Nikon 55,105 and 200mm macro lenses. I`m not familiar with Fuji cameras or modern Nikkor lenses as i use Canon Digital cameras. If you have the instructions check out the closest focus distance, I think it`s 40cm. It sounds as though you have no auto aperture, so focus first then get you exposure, stopping down just before you make you picture. You need to adjust the distance from camera to subject, use a slow iso. do a few test shots. As I mentioned in the video this flash uses a ratio system, so distance is important. There are tables in the manual if I remember correctly that give distance and ratio info, you may be able to use these? Hope this helps Best wishes Paul

@@paulhill3575 Thanks Paul. I will keep on experimenting. I also have Nikon 55 and 105mm macro lenses. I guess 105mm will help as I can shoot from a distance that will help reducing flash power.

Sounds like a plan Harjinder. I use the Nikkor 105 f2.8 ai-s with the flash in TTL mode and it works really well. Hopefully you`ll find the sweet spot of your camera/lens combination and all will be well. Once again best wishes Paul

Hi there.this version won`t fit an FM2, you`ll need an SB16B or the standard hotshoe foot, this is the AS9, they`re interchangable. You could try an adapter AS6. Whatever you deside TTL flash isn`t possible with your camera, however you will get the flash ready LED in the viewfinder. Hope this helps Paul

Hi Robert. I`ve had a quick look online and it seems that most filter companies make 86mm filters then jump to 95mm. I looked to see if Nikon made an 88mm filter but also drew a blank. The only suggestion I can make is to keep the lens hood on at all times and the lens cap on when not in use, standard stuff really. Good luck with your search and let me know if you`re successful .

There is no 88mm filter. You need a stepup 88 to 95 ring and then a 95mm filter.