Відео

all data says that the engine has to come out with the trans axle by raising the car off the engine with a lift. its nearly impossible to remove the engine from the transmission until the assembly is dropped. besides, its probably a LOT faster! I would say NO you are not going to take the engine out the front

@@osamawaer you do not need the tools bro! The cam lockout bars you can easily make with some flat stock. Heck a few sawsall blades and a magnet would work. You must index the cams on the back to the face of the head where the valve cover seats. Then lock out the crank. Good luck!

@timsgarage1356 Thanks, talked to my mechanic he did the exact same thing. I think it's time for round two. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks! im not good with editing or making great content but i do like to make videos no one else has done or that i was able to do differently or a fancy project like my Skylark

@@choppergear6990 you need alldata diy. All the information you need in there. If I remember correctly I think it's 14 in total is the cain is too far stretched to correct. You are at 15. It's been a while so I can't recall correctly. There are 3 things that you need to do asap that basically requires you to do this job anyways. Guides are shot, chain tensioner is shot and at its max travel. And the chain is too far stretched to reclock the timing. The bulk of the work was taking the valve covers off and putting them back on due to all the wiring. Other than that it's a fairly easy job all things considered.

@timsgarage1356 Thanks for your reply, I thought it needed doing, not sure how to time it up correctly once the chain goes back on but I'll figure it out!

@@choppergear6990 Follow my part 1. , the only thing i did wrong really was not setting the timing on the cams and locking them out before i pulled the timing cover. only rotate clockwise when doing so so that the chain tensioner is still keeping it accurate. You might need to slightly move the cams to get them to lock out with the bars but other than that, its not difficult. Buy the parts i did in the video. saves you almost $600. the timing chain you want will be stamped IWIS or JWIS. If you do NOT have an AC vacuum pump and a micron gauge and a 4 port 134a gauge setup... just have a shop reclaim the refrigerant, then charge it up for you, just make sure that it passes a 500 micron vacuum decay test 1st. the ONLY thing i would have done differently is install a NEW Alternator as its REALLY easy to do now if your at the 140K miles plus range. ALSO replace your coolant tank NOW if it has not been updated yet. its a ticking time bomb.,

Guides, chain, tensioner, gaskets, oil, o rings, cam tool and waterpump all ordered. I changed the alternator a few month ago, what a pain in the ass to do that! Do you think it's possible to do the chain job without removing the front bumper and just the radiator? It's hard work sourcing all the bits required, most places are out of stock here in the UK. Thanks again.

@choppergear6990 you do not need any of the cam tools btw. Some flat stock and a drill bit is all you need. Impossible to do it without taking them out. Follow my video guide. Besides... Taking them off was easy and only took an hour . Best of luck. You need alldatadiy

THANK YOU! i still have to sort out why my durametric won't talk to the Module but fixed is fixed!

YES, but right now its in parts as i had all the shiny bits polished.. its a perpetual project!

@@timsgarage1356 Im wondering, have you ever been able to find oversized pistons for that engine? I have an 85 cb650sc that's consuming a lot of oil, hopefully its just valve stem seals but there's some evidence that has pointed to piston rings. I wont be able to find out until the end of this year when I have some free time, but i cannot for the life of me find any oversized pistons online in the case i need to hone the cylinders.

​@@inacrabshellfan4244 instead, this is what I did. I'll eventually make a video on it but I'm limited on footage of this part. Take the jug off the bike, wash it good. Put it in your oven at 400F for 30 minutes upside down. When you lift the jug up the sleeves will fall out. Contact "LA Sleeves" send them 2 of the best sleeves you have. Total cost is about $150 ish each. They will send you new sleeves. Put them in the same way you took them out but this time freeze your new sleeves. They will be oversized. Bring that and your old but now cleaned up pistons to a machine shop and have them bore and hone them to fit each piston. Label them with a punch on the inside of the pistons. Now get rings and gap them correctly. That's what I did. The machine shop was $120 and the sleeves were like $700 shipped. Trust me. Forget oversized pistons. Also pray your block does not have a casting defect like mine did. Pulled the treads out of one of the studs. A helicoil fixed that! You can email me with any questions.

They might even be able to use the file they now have because of me and skip the needing your sleeves. Call them!

​@@inacrabshellfan4244for me the rings were locked up. Try taking the rings off and cleaning the piston. But there is a good chance the sleeves are trashed from that as well.

Well, I just said that to be simple, it was 4 things that made it sound a LOT worse. The tapping or rather the injectors ticking are the primary source of the sound. The hard line from the vacuum booster that goes across the firewall under the rain tray was split, the nipple on the back of the plastic manifold was snapped off, and I had a throttle body leak, the oring was missing from the divider. The evap valve was also leaking and i fixed that a while later and now its VERY quiet. I had a thread on the Porsche club forms but they banned me because they don't like loud people who do things cheap and the right way other than their own. The scoring issue is from the 2 variations of the engine block from 2 plants in Mexico that cast them. luck of the draw if you get one that was not a defective casting, no way to tell. I send oil out to blackstone labs every change.

@@martincvitkovich724 oh dam! I'm lucky to get 8

NICE!

@@shamwow316 in general, probably, but I would say no. Completely different engine. The 1st gen cayenne is basically a VW Toreg, the 3rd Gen you have is Not and is going to have serious big differences. But overall your taking the same things off and replacing the timing chain. So it can't hurt to watch! Let me know how that goes!

​@@timsgarage1356I'm at the point of turning the camshafts to the matrix dots to remove guides and chain but there is resistance when trying to turn camshaft.

@@shamwow316 You should be rotating the crank with the crank bolt before you take anything off including the tensioner but after the valve covers are off. this lets you clock the crank and the cams at the same time. they will only align one way with the flat face of the head where the valve covers seal in the back, if they are not fitting, rotate again 180*. If somehow you did what i did and got ahead of yourself like i did in my video and now your crank skipped some teeth on the chain or took the chain off, not to worry. rotate the crank a little bit and rotate a cam, if it rotates 360* you have moved the pistons enough to clear the valves, lock out the cams, and reposition the crank in its locked out position and reassemble. they both only lock out in ONE position so it cant be backwards. You will have a LOT of resistance when the lobs of the cams are pushing down springs. just go slow with a long bar and socket on the cam bolt CLOCKWISE ONLY it will go but if it feels like it is stopping do not force it and rotate the crank a little bit more. i had done about 1/8 of a turn give or take. TO be sure, you can pull the spark plugs and measure with a stick a piston from the crank lock out position that puts some of the pistons at TDC for comparing to check if they all have moved enough, about 1 inch is all you need to clear the valves. I'm not sure if this answers your question. Feel free to email me and ill be happy to give you a call. My email is in the youtube more about this channel under community. I did address this in this video and in the last video.

@@derekyoung4469 yes. She starts very easily now.

@@timsgarage1356 I have just spent the last 4 hours trying to get the cli[p off the new motor. Can you tell me how you got the clip off as I have run out of luck and patience. Much appreciated. 😒

@@derekyoung4469 What clip? If you want to have a better discussion you can meet me over at the rocket III forums here www.r3owners.net/threads/no-start-starter-rebuild-it.51082/

@@derekyoung4469 Do you mean the clip on the face of the gear? Its a ROYAL pita but unless the gear is shot, don't bother, i did it because i wanted to clean and inspect he journal bearing. Basically a pick and a small flat head screwdriver and a LOT of luck, use the flat head to hold the clip from moving, and the pick to get under the clip from its face where it ends. putting it in a vice to hold it is critical.

@@timsgarage1356 Yes I do. So far I have cut the new shaft and removed, basically destryoed the high tension lead on the new solenoid box. So I am going to use the old solenoid box. How do I remove the new 1.4KW motor the to use in the starter, any ideas?

@@MegaBruceC one of the head studs stripped out. I fixed it, currently sitting in parts for this winters project. Life happens.

including the short face head? all i found about this was that you have to reuse the triumph head. as you saw that i had issues with dimensions as well. weather proofing like the orings and drain were different. These are the things that you have to change, that and where the wires come in so its not hitting the CAT. Can you give me a link to the part number? This is the 1.4 upgrade. I would LOVE to know if there is a drop in replacement vs all the work i did.

@@timsgarage1356what years is yours?

@@lucast594 06. but this will work on literally all 1st and 2nd gens up to what 2019 or whatever year they stopped making them and make the R3 the big CAT box is why i had to do what i did on the offset, im not 100% sure on the 2nd gens as the cats are in the pipes so you might be able to get away with more options.

@@uchia4206 in good shape there worth about 6k of they run. $12k if these services are done to them. The ones for your price have serious issues. One issue is a wiring harness issue or a neglect issue. Stay away from them. Always have any car you are looking to buy like this inspected by a Porsche tech. The owners we got his one from I did a lot of the service for so I knew this car well. And it was cared for.

@@rallemikken6936 a strap? Maybe you missed the point of getting a screwdriver in there. Imo if you can't do it the way I showed, buy or make the VAG tool. Sounds like yours was a little bit harder than most. I suspect that the white plastic in there gets harder over time. Also I did say it was easy to show this with the car stripped! Thanks for watching.

@@timsgarage1356 I used a screwdriver, a short one, but from inside the car. I didn't take out the engine, steering column and everything else..... The strap was for putting pull on the pedal. Just enough travel. But the brake switch had to be taken out. With the mirror, flashlight and the screwdriver, I didn't have hands enough to pull the pedal backwards. Pretty crampded.

the alternator can be removed without doing any of what i did. Drain the coolant, remove a lot of covers and the fender liner. You do NOT need to pull the bumper to do the alternator. The Alternator is a 3 hour job. What i did in part 1 and 2 took about 5 days but in the end was about 30 hours.

@@timsgarage1356 I know i can i do it from the wheelwell. But i need to replace pulleys, find an AC leak and lots of other small jobs so i think it will be easier to just remove everything before i start

@@sjoroverpirat Oh yea fair enough. To get to where i took the radiator assembly off was about 3 hours of work. While you are at it, starter? water pump? coolant flush? Make sure you replace the coolant tank as its prone to exploding at this age and after 100K miles. Buy a sniffer to find the AC leak. high chance its the condenser as its right in the way of flying rocks. the AC system is a BIG system. Make sure you get a NEW filter dryer and purge with nitrogen if you open the system. Buy a micron gauge and vac it down to 250 microns. IMo if you can get it to 350 and it holds, good enough. DO NOT SKIP THAT STEP

no, not even close

It was just a set on Amazon. Look for squeeze bottle Here is a link that may still work a.co/d/dhcZdfS

you bet your cheeks it is. Why? did you have the forbidden kiss?

Lol, no but I'm not sure if I should replace to chain just in case ​@@timsgarage1356

@@STATSk8boardingbottom line, you DO need to replace the chain. You need to look at bank 1 and 2 and the deviation in your durametric scanning tool. If you do NOT have that, get it. at the 100K miles the timing chain is spent. you can do a little bit to buy some time but imo its not worth it.

​@@timsgarage1356 Oh boy... What am I all looking for between the banks.

@@user-vt1vn7is6w You must use the durametric tool and a laptop or the $$$ durametric tool, either way, you need to fimilurise yourself with the software, Cam shaft deviation /timing deviation, Bank 1 and Bank 2. the difference between both of them should be no more than like 8... so bank 1 could be -4 and bank 2 be 4. Mine was -7/+14 and it ran OK ish. anything past 14 gets dangerously close to the valves hitting the pistons. I don't know for sure but something like 17 and bad things happen. If the deviation is within 8 like i said you can get away with just resetting the timing and replacing the tensioner but this is just going to give you about 20K miles before you HAVE TO DO THE SERVICE. the re timing is just so it can run safely before you get the work done. When i was done, it was 0 on both 1 and 2.

Is that a Compliment? I will assume it was. Thanks! You should see part 2! If i was a tech of any type i would NOT be doing work like this. I make more $ and have a much more enjoyable job doing what i do vs being a shill for scamon tools and a slave auto shop of any type... btw i have worked in a few shops... NO THANKS. I rather enjoy making 2x the income doing high end tile and bathrooms.

yea here you go. this is the website that i used and it has probably every part you cant find. VERY HAPPY with them and the price. www.cmsnl.com I purchased all new bolts and some dowels and probably $400 more in parts like the fork caps, exhaust shims and so on and so forth.

there are NUTS inside and outside of the head. Remove the cams, and the follower guides, the followers and the lifters making sure to keep track of where they go and CLEAN. There are 4 bolts 2 on each side on the OUTSIDE of the head on the sides. then another 8 or 10 bolts on the inside UNDER the cam follower guide plates, there are ANOTHER 4 bolts that hold the chain guide down AND THERE ARE MORE bolts on the outside, 2 up front between the exhaust and 2 behind under the intake (10mm) they are small. the oil lines have to comes off as well. you NEED to be following a guide. you can buy the manual for this bike for cheap on ebay and i also suggest having both versions as there are some issues that both have wrong. Buy the cyclepedia online subscription, this is 99% accurate with great pictures. I know you do not have either because you would not have asked otherwise. I found that the OEM printed parts manual for the this SB650SC has some info that cyclpedia got wrong. primarily on the fork assembly portion and i think also on a few engine internal specs that were left out for some reason. nearly every time i work on this bike i have to open BOTH to verify that what im doing is correct. Why are you pulling the engine apart?

Yea actually, im not far, im in lower denver. You should email me and we can connect. I would be happy to!

I can actually come out today if you want. Send me an email. Today is going to be like the last nice day for a while.

Sorry I missed your message. I sent you an Email today. Talk soon, I appreciate it.

For the entire job? If i were to do it again knowing what to do, about 30 hours. this took me about 40 hours give or take. im not exactly sure! There was a lot of figuring things out!

The TDI part was epic. The VW rust bucket electrical nightmare pos was not epic and family and a 944 swap build was happening. Crushed it kept the tdi bits. Sold the 944 and moved to colorado. Life happens. Good times. Check out my video of it getting crushed

NOPE, poor girl got crushed years ago. I just uploaded old videos of her!

As long as the cams are locked out (they only lock out 1 way because the slots are offset) and the crank is locked out, install the chains with the sprockets able to spin freely, then tension them and torque the cam sprockets down. That it. Make SURE you check the TDC of each piston. TDC on these engines does NOT give enough clearance for valves to open, if you take the sprockets off while the cams are pushing on lifters, then the cams could rotate VIOLENTLY and FORCE valves into the pistons. SO my advice is do what I did in part 2 describing how I fixed the 180* out issue I had. I was able to rotate the cams freely after turning the crank about 1/4 turn? Just don’t let the cams go without some thought. I’m not sure on the specs but that how I did it no issue. IMO lock out the cams properly in the back, then take off the cam caps SLOWLY, just back out each bolt a turn then move to the next, start from the inside center and work crisscross outwards. I would keep the crank locked out and the chains on to prevent them from spinning during this. It does not matter what you do after that. As long as it locks out its fine to reassemble. KEEP THINGS CLEAN, use coffee filters and mineral spirits to clean things before assembly. If you get any grit (too small to see) on the cam journals you are going to cause damage.

get ALLDATA DIY

So there is no mark to line up with the chain n the sprockets?

I have all data and Mitchell diy

So it doesn’t matter if the sprockets aren’t in their original position on the camshafts?

I will get my calipers out and measure them tomorrow for you, BUT IMO i would do the same thing i did on my VW, use sawsall blades and a magnet stacked up and held in place. Then all you need is that drill bit to lock out the crank, as long as its a 955 you dont need any fancy tools other than what i listed. a Vacuum coolant filler is a BIG plus but its not MANDATORY

@@timsgarage1356 thanks so much! I actually have the proper timing tools, but one of the locking plates fell into the abyss of the engine bay and I just couldn’t retrieve it. Now, the car and the tools are currently not at my place and I wanted to cut a replacement before I get back to my car :) I’m just replacing hydraulic lifters, so I’m not doing anything to the cooling circuit, but thanks for the heads up.

I have retrieved the second lock out plate from within the engine bay. If anyone needs the same information in the future: the plates are 5mm thick.

@@florianschmidt2931 PERFECT... i have yet to get down to the garage this week. Thanks

There are quite a few "this is BS" from VW on these and many other cars. HONESTLY the cayenne 955 we have has very few of those at all.

@@timsgarage1356 like the starter on the cayenne? Lmao been there done that 😂

@@jauh25 well, seeing as the OEM one is good for about 100 to 120k and the timming service is about the same, its NOT a problem. If you are doing proper service to those cars, those items are NOT a problem, the 955 sure had its share but IMO VERY easy to work with. The coolant 3 pipe is... yea 1st SUV ever made by a luxury sports car was BOUND to have issues.

see part 1 also

You need to try a few things. Drain the coolant, pull spark plugs and pressurize each cylinder after rotating the crank so both intake and exhaust valves are closed. You need to go as high as you can on the air compressor 145 PSI. listen for air out of the coolant tank each time. If you hear air, the head gasket is SHOT or you have a cracked block sleeve. either way that would be a total engine tear down or replacement. Chances are you have an issue with the coolant system. you can pressure test it or vacuum test it. The 955 has MANY issues with the OEM stock coolant system and now the tank at this age and miles will explode. Replace it if its leaking or past 100K miles.

Did you figure it out?

nice

this is a Cayenne S, not a turbo. That being said, i was told i had to drop the engine for this... NOPE. There is a ok amount of room there but i cant speak for any turbo work. My guess is that yes there probably is enough but i hate to say this, go to renlist and the 955 957 forums and check it out, just don't post much, they do not like new members, they banned me because they did not like how i did this timing job because it was not "by the book", the admins on those forums are old grumpy trolls!

@@timsgarage1356 thanks no you did great job on that timing work who cares what ppl say so long the job was done and it started first crank that save yoh alot of $$ and will save others who watched your videos anyways i was aware that cayenne s is non turbo just wanted to know if there was enough space for my tiny arms to work on the wastegate or turbo it seems like from the front below the air box got some ample room but from up top or down under there isnt enough room to use tools as i did changed the upper o2 sensor right side and it was really hard the lower o2 sensor i couldn't get a tool to removed it anyways thanks and keep up the good work and videos and hope more of the cayenne as i am trying to work on it myself it was a free bee from my brother

@@tonytapuro9264 when i was looking in there, i said to myself, good thing i dont have to work on the exhaust.... you can reach back there but .... fingers crossed. it might be very helpfull to remove the bumper and rad like i did to get in there. Remove the tire and some suspension parts too might help

You may want to contact a framing deck contractor in your area as ask him for more Porch Teeth! Joking aside! Have you checked divination? if you can jump a tooth... it means you probably jumped many and if you did one or more the engine would NOT run very well if at all. my divination originally was -7 on one side and 16 on the other side.... that's about as far as it gets before the engine runs terrible, much further and valves and pistons get to meet. IMO it was not as big of a job as you would think, the wiring harness and fighting with dumb issues like o rings took a lot of the time. Best of luck, hope my part 1 and 2 help!

@@timsgarage1356 absolutely your video was very educational and he did a very good job and that’s the thing when I put it on the scanner. It says it’s off a few degrees in timing. It has a little bit of a rough idle but while running runs absolutely perfect I wish I knew more about these cars. I’m gonna send you the codes on here and see if they make any sense to you.

@@jamesputney6009 don't worry about all the codes. From what i gathered, 100k to 150k these engines for both the 955 and 957 both need the timing chain replaced. its just you know... like 8 feet long! i put it up to the new chain and it was about 1/8 of a chain link longer, so NOT that much chain stretch caused my engine to be about 11.5 out of time from each other (7 plus 16 divided by 2). i would check a few other things that cause rough idle and what not... check the brake booster vacuum line that goes to the evap control valve (its a (Y) shaped connection that goes to the back of the intake manifold. the hard line right behind the passenger wheel behind the coolant tank was split, and the purge valve was not connected up properly. i fixed that in a thread i made on renlist but they banned me because they did not like my way of doing things, so i will have to email you some pictures. ALSO change your coolant tank before it explodes. all 955 and 957's and many others have faulty old coolant tanks. plastic gets brittle. the upgraded part is a better cap too.

If the deviation is like +5 and +10, you could just time it back, but if the total deviation is more than 8 in total than it must be replaced.

The gasket is metal and no way should ever leak unless there is other damage. It is a compressed metal that you should add a dab of gasket maker at the seams. The be direct.... this engine does not need any special tools as I said and for your task, no you are not doing the timing chain job so no lockout is needed the harmonic balancer is keyed. Just do NOT rotate the crank counter clockwise otherwise you will be doing a timing chain job against your will. Imo at anything past 100k you should be doing the job anyways. 90% of the work is done. You will have to do everything I did other than the chain its self. Why is it leaking? Are you sure? Might be a crack in the cover? Might be the seal on the shaft? Imo do the job right once.

IMO the amount of parts and work to get to that gasket, it will cost about $300 to finish the job and do the timing chain.You need to check the deviation of bank 0 and bank 1 to know the health of the chain. If you have not yet done so, change out the coolant tank. it is literally a ticking time bomb... seriously, a video coming up on that soon

Well, I just said that to be simple, it was 4 things that made it sound a LOT worse. The tapping or rather the injectors ticking are the primary source of the sound. The hard line from the vacuum booster that goes across the firewall under the rain tray was split, the nipple on the back of the plastic manifold was snapped off, and I had a throttle body leak, the oring was missing from the divider. The evap valve was also leaking and i fixed that a while later and now its VERY quiet. I had a thread on the Porsche club forms but they banned me because they don't like loud people who do things cheap and the right way other than their own. Once those where fixed the timing graph shifted back for the injection and the ticking was half as loud. Nothing to do with the valves and or bore. These engines do have a bore scoring issue but has nothing to do with oil or temps or annoying other than the random back luck of getting one of 2 blocks that where cast for these from 2 locations.