Відео

Thank you for the comment and visit! Glad you liked what I did with the blues. Unfortunately, I do not have any experiences with Vallejo's express colors and very little citadel contrast paints. But looking at the link taleofpainters.com/2023/11/top-tip-visual-comparison-of-all-61-contrast-23-speedpaints-24-gsw-dipping-inks/. Citadel's Leviadaon Blue looks pretty close, and honestly, better to me based on the results in the sample swatches on that page. If I had the vallejo express range, i'd try Wargram Blue mixed with a little bit of Hospitaler Black to darken it a little.

@@workingwithminiatures0706 Ty for your reply. For sure I'm gonna give Leviadon Blue a try, as getting Army Painter paints where I live gets pretty expensive. Keep on the good work, Thanks!

Thank you for the comment and visit! Always great to hear positive feedback, especially on a piece I don't feel as confident about.

Thank you for the visit. Was the video glitchy for you? When I watch the playback on my end I am not having any issues or seeing any glitches. Or are you having the troubles with the Chitubox software? If its Chitubox you are having issues with, this is not something I own or can help with. I'm just a user of it.

Thank you for comment and visit. Always good to hear positive feedback. I've been going back and forth with having regrets on most of my bases being flat, this year. With virtually no vertical climb, but this one I envisioned to be flat, so I stuck with the original plan. I think I made the right choice in the end, as it may have been too much if it was uneven ground.

Thank you for the visit and question! I would say the answer is depending on how you are going to use this case. Mine will mostly sit in a closet or on a shelf, so I could paint it and not worry to much about chipping and flaking. However, if you are going to be traveling with it, or if you are looking to paint designs on it, I would remove the plexiglass in the door (it just pops out) and then i would sand the entire outside of the case. there is a slight bumpy texture all over it and the finish is somewhat satin, which could make it difficult for paint to stick to it. Sanding it first with some decently rough sandpaper, such as 120 grit, would get rid of that texture and help the paint stick better. Regardless, i'd definately prime it before trying to apply any paint for the best result. Sanding in the handle recess would also likely be a nightmare. The handle itself only has two phillips head screws holding it in (unscrews from the bottom of the top piece). If you are going to paint the inside, it has a crazy design and would be very very difficult to sand. The inside does not have any of that bumpy texture, but it would need sanding as I do not believe primer alone would be enough to have the paint stick well.

Thank you for the comment and visit! I wish I had more teachers that would have done that. I mostly had the kind that just wanted to get through the day.

Thank you for the reoccuring comments and visits, it is always appreciated. Thank you and have a happy New Year, as well!

Is the snow shiny? Like christmas snow lmao serious question tho

Thank you for the comment and the visit!

I can't remember what I did here for this video, specifically. But depending on what kind of snow effect you want, you can change how you apply these Ak Interactive Texture pastes. If you want a look like the last bit of snow melting, then you can water down the Snow texture and dab it on. It will have a glossy shiny look like its wet. If you want more of a fresh fallen/powdery look, apply the wet snow texture first and then sprinkle the snow microballoons on it immediately after. As the first wet texture dries, it will hold most of the powder look. Another option i've used recently, and will be on the two videos i post in the next two days, is to apply the wet snow look, sprinkle the microballoons over it and let everything dry, and then go back in a few places and apply just a little of the watered down snow texture over the fixed microballoons. Most of it will look like fresh fallen snow, and there will be a little glossiness here and there and give it a more interesting appearance.

Thank you for the visit and comment! Vallejo Glaze medium helps with getting a smoother result. I'm still working on getting smoother transitions, myself. Good luck!

Thank you for the comment and visit! I think if I had spent another 5-8 hours on it, it would have been easily the best miniature I've painted, so far. Having so little details helped.

Thank you for the comment and visit! Always good to hear feedback, especially positive ones!

Thank you for the visit and comment! The song was written by myself and a friend of mine a long long time ago. It was transcribed in Guitar Pro (Guitar Pro sounds like midi music). I exported each guitar track out separately and ran them through Reaper and added some Chorus effects to make it sound less like a Nintendo track and more like something you'd find on the Genesis.

Thank you for the visit and comment! Always good to hear from viewers!

Thank you for the visit and question. Simple answer is less snow is more, from my most recent experiences. I will be doing more snow bases in December, as I will be doing some seasonal themed miniatures. If you want to make a stop by again then, I'll make sure I actually cover the snow basing then. Also, early next year I plan on painting a ton of Adeptus Sororitas and Blood Angels with snow bases, as well. Below are some links to videos where i've done smaller snow bases. These aren't tutorials on how i did them, but they help show what i mean by less snow = more. I've found a solid white snow base is no different then leaving your base an unpainted black. ua-cam.com/video/vTsuc2XRRLE/v-deo.html - my snowbase durability test, if you want to see how doing the bases like this holds up to some fairly significant impact Marvel Crisis Protocol - Sabertooth - ua-cam.com/video/Yvp22Kbw8yk/v-deo.htmlsi=RgRSAbrilNof6sYH&t=636 - doesn’t show how I did the base, but look how I left some areas uncovered with snow, I’ve found the less snow I add, the better it comes out Marvel Crisis Protocol - Wolverine - ua-cam.com/video/gjO2eyLeK-s/v-deo.htmlsi=g2Hk_ZYJ7eoFP8cT&t=457, doesn’t show base but shows how the base looks

Thank you for the return visit and comment! Long story short, its a dead game that is becoming harder and harder to find the miniatures for. My local game store had a ton of Dust items on hand, and he was trying to get rid of it on ebay and having a hard time. So he sold all of what he had to me for a huge discount. Originally it was by Paolo Parente (the game was based on comics he did) and got it pushed by Rackham Entertainment. At some point Rackham dropped them or closed, I can't remember. Fantasy Flight Games then picked up the IP and then later dropped it. Dust 1947 hung around a little longer but it died again. Sometimes you can find it under "Dust Tactics", "Dust Warfare", or "Dust 1947", as it underwent a few changes throughout its history.

@@workingwithminiatures0706 maybe this is the DUST for the release the CMON of a comic and miniatures?

Thank you for the visit and comment! I had seen the new box set with the stand and considered buying it, but I ended up taking a different route and went down the road of gouache and heavy body acrylic paints typically used by canvas painters. I do use a lot of Army Painter paints still, though. I just wished they had that paint stand in the mega paint set from their original line.

Thank you for the comment and repeat visits, as always. I'm getting there. The barrage of bad luck seems to have lifted and the foot is getting there. Swelling almost gone and can walk without a limp now. Likely just a hairline fracture on the big MTP joint, so just a little more time and everything will be right as rain.

Thank you for the visit and comment! I'm working my way through the old episodes again, and am going to try to make it to the current day this time. I do hit the weights regularly, or at least I did before I dropped that log on my foot. I actually had gotten my own power rack. Though I'm not hoss enough to deadlift 500+. I live on a farm so I generally do lighter weight at a much higher rep count. Little safer on my back so I can keep the property up and keep the animals fed/watered. Deadlifts are king for farm work.

Give me a free month of Chitubox Pro and I'll do a video on that!

Thank you for the visit and questions. See my answers below, thought it might be worth noting that I am right-handed and use a right-handed configured mouse. The shortcuts commands I provided are also for Windows machines. I'm not sure what they would be for a MAC, but you can look for the select@all_select_select and the edit@move shortcuts by going to Help > Shortcuts in the Chitubox menu, to see what is configured by default. 1. I use the mouse to move/manipulate the camera position and the models. I hold down the wheel-mouse button (does the same thing as holding down the left-click) to pan up, down, left, or right without any rotation. I hold down the right mouse button to rotate above, below, or around the models. 2. The answer to this one depends on the scenario. If your model is just floating above the base and needs no rotational adjustments made, then select the model and open the Move Command window by pressing CTRL+M. Then click "Put on the Plate." That will drop it all the way down onto the plate. In the other scenario, if your model needs to be rotated and lowered, then you'll want to select the model, open the Rotate Command window by pressing CTRL+R, click "Flatten by Face", and then left-click the part of the model that you want to touch the base, such as the bottom of the feet. If your still unsure, then let me know. I can make a quick youtube short video of how to move the models flat onto the plate.

Thanks for your response. It could help a sort video. Also I would appreciate a video showing us how we can print in parts figures in bigger scales, how we can measure the exactly dimensions for example the height of all parts together etc. Thanks again!

I've started working on this but it may take a few days to get it out, as I'm also in the process of finishing up another video.

Hopefully these answer your questions. ua-cam.com/video/8Zkl97RfmDc/v-deo.html - standing a floating model onto the build plate ua-cam.com/video/dYApAFnXWx0/v-deo.html - changing the scale of a model in multiple pieces ua-cam.com/video/mbvlbePT6Mk/v-deo.html - assemble pieces and measure height

Thank you for the comment and the visit! And thanks for the mention of the music. All of it was written by either myself or myself and a friend, and was composed through a midi app with a couple of plugins. One day I'll sit down and record it with live instruments, just haven't taken the time to do it yet.

Thank you for the return visits and comments. I have not. I actually haven't even heard of them before, but I will check them out. I've pulled some free stls off popular 3d printing sites for foliage, but most of them are a handful of items at best, likely not a big pack of .stls like i'm sure is available from Epic Basing.

No problem. Thank you for the visit and the comment!

Thank you for the comment and visit. Its definitely helpful, especially when you're trying to remember how you painted a skin tone from 2 years ago. What I put in my videos for viewers isn't actually how I do it for myself, personally. If you want a peak at more of what it looks like, try the link at the end of this comment. Its an overview video of everything I painted last year, but the link should skip you to the end right where it does a real quick skim showing what my personal spreadsheet looks like. I found it important to add little pictures of the mini also, because I started to forget what some of the model's names were. If it doesn't skip you straight to the spreadsheet, the timestamp should be 7:41 for it. ua-cam.com/video/i0jRP83ERt4/v-deo.htmlsi=jKXwtNSbXZKhF4ZK&t=461

Thank you for the praise, visit, and comment! I have another video on snow basing that demonstrates its durability if you are interested. ua-cam.com/video/vTsuc2XRRLE/v-deo.html

Thank you for the visit and comment. Any praise is always welcome!

Thank you for the repeated visits, comment, and praise! Sometimes I feel like I am varying what I paint too much and consider focusing more on one type of thing. But, in the end, I feel like I'm learning more by forcing myself to paint things I wouldn't naturally choose to do on my own. This miniature was more as part of celebrating the fourth of July, and all the freehanding was definately out of my comfort zone.

Thank you for the comment and visit! Always good to hear praise and positive feedback. I'll be working on a copper dragon in the near future, so be sure to come back and take a look.

Thank you for the comment and visit! Yeah, I definately am going to keep giving oils ago. I like the results other folks get with it, I just haven't quite gotten it to work the way I would like yet. I think I'm going to try mostly oils in the next miniature I paint, though I will use lighter paints to give a good acrylic start to build off of

Thank you for the comment and visit! Yes, it was. Although I exported each track separately as .mp3s and then imported them into Reaper to add some additional mild effects, such as a little reverb, better chorus, a little more distortion, etc... Then dumped it out as a compiled .mp3.

Thank you for taking the time to let me know. There is definitely something odd going on . When I go to my phone's youtube app it shows up for me. When I use chrome on my pc it does not show up for me, but if i use edge on my pc (which is built from chrome) it also shows up for me. But if i refresh the page in edge and skip back to that timestamp, it no longer shows up. I'm not sure what's going on with it but I will send it to youtube support to take a look. I've removed it and saved the changes and added it back, and its still doing the same for me, even after clearing my browser cache.

@@workingwithminiatures0706 For this reason most UA-camrs would always duplicate any links in the description. It's always better in general because if I return to the video I don't want to search the timestamp where the link was shown.

Understood and taken to heart. I added it as a step in my checklist for when i make a video. Thank you for the feedback!

Thank you for the comment and visit! The intro is a snippet i wrote a couple years ago, the 2nd song and outro are somethings I co-wrote with a friend about 20+ years ago. These were all transcribed into guitar pro 6 as midis as I wanted a old school game feel, and then I pushed them through Reaper's recording software to add chorus effects to the guitars. Basically, there is other music on the channel, but with the exception of those 2, I wrote everything else. I'm going to start the process of properly recording it with real instruments and make a little playlist of "music of the channel" or something like that, as i've been asked a couple times about it. But I have to figure out how to copyright things (not that i suspect anyone would steal it for their own use), but i did put a lot of effort into them and rather be safe than sorry.