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It does come with a cord. About 5.5 feet. I don't remember if it had a plug. I've added a 220 twist lock as I like my power as a drop down from the ceiling. I hate stepping on cords and hoses

@@turninground3511 thanks! So you used a new cord as well? Did you use 12/3 soow for the power cord? Thank you

Kevin this is a 220 plug. It will be specific to the codes in your area. Pretty general really. But you do have choices. For me I don't like cords on the floor. I drop down from the ceiling. So for that I use a twist lock plug and receptacle. You can use different types for different applications.

@@turninground3511 I really appreciate your help. I don’t know much about electrical but assuming I have a 30 amp breaker and I able to use a 6-20 plug? Thank you

I have an eight foot bed so it fit nicely. I did plan to have a brace at the tailgate just in case a fast stop or swerve came up. The company I bought from "Eagle Tools" laid it on its back and lifted it with a fork lift. Let me back track just a bit. This is a method I've used many times. I have a bed liner that is hard plastic. I use a sheet of plywood or OSB that can store in and out. Pull the plywood out,lean the saw against the wood on its back. Lift the saw up and into the truck. The part that makes it work is that while its on its back you secure a four foot board through the base of the saw to balance it from being able to tip. The rest is ratchet straps to secure it. How to get it out. At least two friends. I used he lip of the garage floor to catch the edge of the plywood and the base of the saw. I tilted it up into the rolling base with a come a long and a snatch block. Now you can save a bit of weight 200 lbs I think if you take the table off. Doing business with Eagle afforded me a dialed in set up upon purchase. So I left the table on. It's a thousand pounds so planning is important. A liftgate service to a home presents the problem of getting it off the pallet and getting it under the door. My way you bring the truck up to the door and tilt the saw up. You will not be unhappy.

I'm not sure this is helpful for you. Ii was taught that the wax step required the least amount of product. So maybe two or three touches to the wheel. Like you I use the edge of a plain board to clean it before starting. And to be clear I'm using only a carnauba wax bar. If it seems an un solvable problem it may be time to talk to Be all and order a new one. We don't need more things in our lives to make us frustrated. Start fresh and learn more

At the time yes. Perhaps Bora has changed.

I was just given one as a gift but havent attached it yet. I believe it's a wixley.

@@turninground3511 give the Accurate Technologies DRO a look if it doesn’t work out for you. More accurate and a bigger screen. 😁👍🏻

Let me first say thanks for watching my channel. Let's first address the wandering blade issue. Most of us go straight to UA-cam to seek knowledge. I've developed a thought about that. It's be careful. Choose your Guru carefully. Let me give you mine for the bandsaw. Alex Snodgrass of Carter Tools. He gives great advice and demonstraits his work in an easy to follow manner. Here is a link to setting up your saw for resaw. ua-cam.com/video/CFZOlNsAgBU/v-deo.html. I've been buying the bulk of my blades from Timber Wolf. If you take the time to read the list of blades you will see the differences of using blades for greenwood cutting, kiln dried wood cutting as well as different thicknesses. You should note in Alex's video he talks about friction and dulling your blade. They don't last forever. For me I usually buy the best I can afford. For resaw the Laguna tools resaw king is hard to beat. You can spend less but the life of the blade is shorter. Much shorter. Also a resaw blade should be 3/4 to 1.25 inch. There is generally little difference between the two. Keeping your blades clean. A tedious job for a bandsaw blade. However it's neccessary sometimes . Especailly after green wood. (also get that wet sawdust out of your saw as soon as you are done.) Sawdust will transfer from your blade to the tires. That is very often why you blades move left to right when running. Clean your tires from time to time. As far as the blade goes you can clean it on the saw NOT RUNNING. I use Trend Blade cleaner. This is a great product. I clean my table saw blades, all my turning tools, and my bandsaw blades with it. Spray it on let it sit for a mininute or two and wipe it off with a towel or paper towel.. It's that easy. You can clean your bandsaw blade off the saw as well. Just be careful. I hope this helps. A lot of what we do is about practices. The more you work with your saw the better you become.

@@turninground3511 Thank you for the info and feed back, very much appreciated. Alex Snodgrass really likes the Greenwood blades by Carter Products. Have you had a chance to use these blades? He also mentioned using a 5/8 3pti blade size for re-sawing. It surprised me, only because all I hear is you should get the biggest blade your machine can handle for re-sawing. I think I’ll give it a try and order one.

@@tundrawhisperer4821 I have read an tested that 3/4 to 1 inch were best with little difference. I found that to be true. Alex reps Carter which is an excellent company. Pick a guru. Give it a go

Most of the time I look to have a piece about three inches wide by one inch thick. I've learned that most folks want a thicker handle as it's easier to hold on to. Also thicker is easier to work with. I start with the bowl first. A bit of practice will get you making better and better spoons. Making plain spoons sells the most. Making curved, and unique handles sells slower but brings more folks over. I get the occasional custom request for long and strong for chili pots or stews. Have fun. Makes mistakes and learn more

Craft supplies USA. Holdfast extension. $31.00. excellent for most large bowls and turnings.

www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/39/4477/hold-fast-Long-Buffing-Adapter?term=buffing+mandrel+for+lathe

Thanks. I've had it a year now and haven't had an issue. I think today I would add the digital read out. I'm 70 and bending down to read that scale and get your glasses just right. Well to quote my dad... getting old... ain't for sissy's. Thanks for the comment.

Your dad was wise...

Yeah don't I know it. I just ordered one. Dec 2023 still $300.

If I remember right you choose your own plug due to the difference in local codes or needs on mine since I use it on a rolling base. I use a twist lock receptacle and drop the power cord from the ceiling. I hate to step on cords. I do this for the Band Saw, the Jointer, and the planer.

@Turning Round I had noticed your comment in video about the twist lock. They didn't offer me any choices on plugs. Mine will have a wall right to the left of it. Ideal for a low wall outlet. I was just hoping to find out what came with it. Thankyou for your time. Wayne H.

I think you will feel it has taken your work to the next level. When you see and feel the difference you will be very pleased. Please note less is more. Don't load up your cloth wheels with product. The tripoli bar four swipes back and forth,. The white three. And the wax is two . The wax if you apply too much at a time becomes counter productive. Too much and the bowl is a little tacky. You can hand polish it with a towel but why add the work. Just remember less is more and keep you wheels clean between uses. I've had mine for six years now.

Thanks for reaching out Dave. I have a bowl that I have put a wipe on poly finish. It has been drying for a couple of weeks. It looks fantastic but I feel it needs buffing to true it up and get the feel much better. I am thinking this buffing system is really to finish the finish. Although I saw someone buff a bowl with no finish! Also I have watched professional pipe makers (smoking) use this approach and the pipes have a stunning polish. I am a pinch away from buying this, and if I know myself I will bite.... lol another accessory. Thanks again for advice. Marvin from Tyler Texas

@@thewoodman6039 This morning I used the system to buff a Sycamore bowl I finished the day before. As a normal process I apply General Finishes Sanding sealer. Friction polish it to dry it on the lathe. Then I apply one or two coats of Minwax Wipe on Poly. Each cost is also friction polished to dry. It always looks very good at this point. I let it harden overnight and then buff it in the morning. It is at this point that you will appreciate your investment. I also use General Finishes bowl finish and High Performance Gloss using the same process. Woods like Acacia, Cocobolo, and Koa just pop after buffing. I do cutting boards, spoons, boxes etc. All with good results. Now that you are encouraged let me also give you advice on handing. Be prepared to lose a piece to the learning curve. I set up a tarp over the lathe to soften the strike of a flying piece. Always watch that you don't let your piece go below the spinning cloth wheel. That's when it grabs it at 1600 rpm and you start cussing. Hold your bowl upside down. It's all easy you just need to focus on your direction as you go. Also the bowl buffs, the tennis ball sized ones are awesome for the inside edges and smaller bowls. Lastly don't buy more than one of each of the bars of compound. Each bar will last you years and years.

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