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Good thought, however, I had the same thought a while back and tried it, but found that my silicone lost adhesion and the insert fell to the botton one to many times. Could work for you however.

In a pinch just wrap the post with good old electric tape.

That plus nut is a 6mm which is the size of the machine screw that is used stock to hold down the deck. CC-SM6PB12.70-ZYR (Steel M6 Pre-Bulb Plus Body, Flat Head, Grip Range: 7.10-12.70, Zinc Yellow RoHs C1000-M6 M6 x 1.0 Wrench Type Manual Plus Body Installation Tool On the footwell drains. I used a Yamaha footwell drain part. Cut a hole in the footwell. It is a tight fit for the Yaqmaha part which I had to cut down a bif at the discharge plastic, and and piped it to the rear using Pex Tubing from HomeDepot, The tubes are connected at the rear to a tee, and then a Pex single tube is connected to the auto siphon tube that comes stock on the ski and sucks the water out of the starboard side thru transom port.

Pop the videos to the SeaDoo FishPro & DYI Facebook group and we can all see it and your info!

At the rear of the ski there are 2 clear hoses/tubes that are used for the stock auto-siphon bilge feature. ( Sometimes, one of these is used for the discharge for the after-market Seadoo electric bilge pump. My skid did not have that vertical electric pump)) These tubes have a vacuum on them when underway. These tubes are affixed to the 2 thru-hull fittings at the rear of the ski and these then terminate in the 2 venturi tubes that you can see at the top of the jet pump discharge nozzle when looking at the pump discharge from the rear of the ski.. This placement of those tubes in the jet stream causes a vacuum in the tubes when underway and the vacuum is what sucks water out of the hull while underway. I took the one on the right side of the ski, and instead of having the suction intake tube stuck at the bottom of the hull area, I put a connection on the end of it and then connected that to the tubing that runs from the footwell drains to the read of the ski. As seen in my video, the left and right footwell drain pipes (white pex tubing form the hardware store) are connected together at the rear and the vacuum them gets to both drains in the footwell. on the starboard, I guess you can use pvc for the tubing but I used the PEX.

No loss of control or falling off. I was just amazed at how they did not degrade tge ability to cut and turn at all. I wad a anticipating that it would make the ski handle somewhat sloppy but that was not the case at all

If you are going 45 mph and you turn hard be prepared to hold on just like you would have to hold on without them

What you have to do to remove the front hood piece so that you can angle the front Locker lid up a bit more. And then what you do is you hold it with a rope tied to the front of your trailer hitch so it doesn't fall down and hit your head or your hand after you remove the strut. After you have done that and put a little tension on it then you unscrew the strut I unscrew from the top connector that is a gray

That is called Housing Nut M6 Part Number is 291004813 I could only see in on the parts diagram for the Fishpro 2019 model!

I attached the reservoir through the little mounting hole on the reservoir itself with a sheet metal screw to the top of the fuse box cover

I do not but they can be bought online for example kps-sa.dealerspikeparts.com/oemparts/p/sea_doo/292002447/seal the seal part # is 292002447

Humm you meant the nut that is used at the head end of the cover? This are 6mm nuts and they have a nylon insert to keep them positioned after tightening. These are stainless but I think they use brass which is better if you can get it, because even stainless corrodes in salt water. www.amazon.com/M6-1-0-Nylon-Insert-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0BHQNH3D9?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

facebook.com/groups/2158413981038501

My hands and arms were too fat!

These factory bulges do no draw like a trolling motor or the radio when the accessory mode is on. My recollection is that the accessory mode will shut OFF if the battery draws down to 11.xx volts, so as to not over-drain things and leave enough to start the ski.. On that factory "always running" bilge. That noise drives many folks crazy especially it they are fishing. Many remove the factory bilge and replace it with float activated bilge pump wired direct to the battery. In this case of being wired direct, if the float activated bilge is running, it draws juice from the battery as long as the bilge is firing. Because of this, the battery can drain completely. That said, it the bilge is draining the battery because it is firing and discharging water for that long , then you got a bigger issue than a dead battery - you are going to be sinking.

You bet

Thus is the one that fits nicely.. SAILFLO Automatic Submersible... www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKYM62Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thanks a bunch!

That can be a good thing to try out i figure. As an update, I found that with my holse plugged, the water does accumulate like another user said, and that when opening, the surge of accumulated water inthe waffles toward the front drain holes, which were not filled, is so great that it sloshes still into the storage bin. I have now removed my hold plugs and over-drilled the drain holes, so that when the hood is closed, the water gets out faster while I am using the ski, and then when opening the hood, it will ( hopefully) have drained out better because of the over-drilled holes. I will keep folks posted on the outcome.

You bet.. I found a little trick for topping off. I recently had to go thru the process of a refill, and instead of taking the top off completely and adding fluis to the well, after pulling back on of the ears a bit to release it from one side of the top , while holding the ear back, I inserted a stubby flathead screwdriver tip between the housing and the top, and gave a little twist to break the seal. The still holding the ear back a bit. I "injected" the fluid and the pressure raised the top just enough so that the fluid flowed into the housing, driving out any air and overflowed the top. When I saw that I pressed down on the top and clicked it into place. You look like a 3 armed paperhanger getting your hands all positioned to do this but it worked out for me. BTW - On those ears, I know folks use zip-ties to keep them secures. I found that a Charlie Haywood clothes pin works, AND that a runner door stopper wedge works great too! ALSO - Look into replacing any Yellow Seal with the improved RED one.

EXACTLY!

Hey thanks. I figure that if it helps one other person it is good.

You bet. It just was getting on my nerves.

I just got some old kind of stiff rubberized material and use it. I bet one of this thin kitchen cutting mats could work great. Just crease it so it folds properly away from the storage locker wen you close the hood.

BelMetric Online or here is a link from google ...www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/298704/self-tapping-screws?pid=17345

wow never done that. Can it even be done. I was thinking that the top clamshell is glued to the bottom clamshell

Hey Christopher -- In a previous life I had access to tool and die maker machine shops, and so I worked with one of the senior fabricator/machinists to fit this and that and hack and chop, until I got what I wanted. They were the kind of palace that makes space shuttle parts. ( and the cost is about the same). Started the ride to Florida from Corpus Christi, but only made it to Morgan City and broke a tooth. (SMH) had to turn back and lick my wounds. Great ride though.. Looking toward the upcoming ride season to see how things will work out this time. Where you ride out of?

Antifreeze that is used for RVs. That is the kind that is non toxic to marine life.

Remove the hood trim in front of locker and you can open the hood more and relieve the tension and pop it out of the ear track

Cool to see that you ride there too.. I know that area well, as it is along my route from Corpus to Galveston. OMG Matagorda Bay in the wind .. Yee Haw. As to your question, mine did not have the revised seal shroud, so it started being a bit dirty in the hull area, and there was a slight haze of moisture inside there too after these Galveston to Matagorda kind of rides. . No standing water, but it was "wet". Have had the same issue as you at 30 hrs when I first bought the ski, and I heard from a tech that there was a bad batch of carbon from manufacturing. The replacement lasted about 100 hrs. This one lasted about 75. One thing, I also noticed was that the SS hat had a bit of discoloration looking like rust around the outer edge. My new seal now has that shroud, and telling when a seal is needing attention is going to be a lot harder. I think that SeaDoo did things that way because of complaints about " My engine bay is dirty". When these seals wear they throw dust as part of their working design but I think that riders want to see a spotless engine bay.. The wear dust has to go somewhere and those users that give photos of clean engine bays ar 500 hrs are either fibbing or riding if very clean waters. On this new seal shroud, I know that there is that little rectangle view-port in the shroud, and presumably that is there so as to "look" directly at the hat/seal edge-line, but that is, imo, going to be hard to gauge. Speaking of gauges, I would like to see a measurement gauge to put onto that interface of the hat and the seal so as to read the wear amount. Just looking at it is going to be kind of sketchy imo. I maybe could have gone fro more hours on my ski, but when you are going to be gone for 10 days on these long trips, and when your little voice speaks to you, I have found it best to listen, if you be catching my drift.

Yes I built them

The tube that comes stock on the ski just Loops up and then you will fix it to one of the components so that the end of the tube is above the transducer fluid level. I have another video that shows how I extend this tube up to the front of the ski and affix it to a reservoir cup used for motorcycle brake fluid so that I can fill this tube directly from taking off the seat instead of having to take off the rear deck to check the fluid level or fill it.

It kind of gets adhered to the housing. Small screwdriver a one side to break the seal.

The red one is what you want. The yellow it the earlier one.

yup - after the run around run around, I sold the car and got a new one.