Відео

If i want to vombine 2 tamiya body for real minj4wd race which cement do you recommend, I dont really seem to know which one is stronger

Thanks for the video! 👍🏻

I broke my tiny gundam circle joint part... i think i should get the extra thin?

So if a buy inks i odnt nned to buy washes?

Does the white top Tamiya cement need shaking before using? Shaking it makes it a lot thicker and this is how I use it. Any advice welcome.

For me, those are just different types of glue. I don't believe on the different types for different purposes. The main reason you buy those is to fix broken things so why settle for lesser bonding? No sense at all. I'd rather just buy the TC white top 👍

extra thin is meant to go sprue to sprue. the plastic melting creates a weld. the white plastic your using is not really compatable, Unless it is the same type. but i have great results with extra thin

That was a very simple way to explain the differences in these cements thanks so much!!!

Is the plastic card and the sprue 2 different plastics?

Extra Thin is not junk, it works very well for small parts with delicate contact points and flows quickly into the joint. I use also the other thin green cap bottle and the thicker orange cap bottle and those three of Tamiya glue only. Some builders hate Testors tube glue but I use it also because for big surfaces it works in fact it's the strongest glue there is! If it strings I just remove it.

Extra thin is not a cement, first mistake. It melts plastic and is for 2 surfaces that are already in contact, and uses capillary action to bond.

my head explode

Great explaination. Very helpful. Thanks

So much science here…. 🤦🏻‍♂️

1:41 😅 i agree with what you said too much!

Great review

here is my recipe for thin cement, which works exactly like Tamiya.... 50% lacquer thinner + 50% Acetone this will have much less odor than cellulose thinner/ lacquer thinner on its own, and less odor than Tamiya thin cement... the acetone facilitates fast clean evaporation, with some solvent power, the lacquer thinner is the stronger solvent that melts the plastic. enjoy ;O)

Thanks, this helped me.

Which one would you recommend for painted parts?

The only one that do not "perform the best" here is you! Learn a bit before throwing around wrong informations. You obviously don't have the minimal knowledge to give any kind of advise on this subject.

A Warning: - Stay away from Army Painter shades that comes in CANs made for dipping models in. - There is a formula difference between the Cans and the small Bottles; The Cans is actually a thick polyurethane sludge. - I've ruined a carefully painted model with the "Army Painter Strong Tone Quickshade" that comes in a can meant for dipping. AP says it can take up to 48 Hours for it to dry but my model stayed sticky for months and after years is till sticking to other models if left against another for too long. - AP sure is bad at labeling the difference between the bottle and the can, because they are named the same with the only difference that the small bottles have "INK" written on front of them... not in the name.

User error!

The liquitex professional clear gesso is great it is a gritty feel but the paint sticks to it great

yes the same happened to me i think the white gesso is so bad , the black gesso worked liek charm !!!

Thank you for the video! Helps heaps

Apples and oranges.

Good experiment though. You are right that gesso contains chalk dust. In traditional painting it could also contain white lead oxide, but it's mostly chalk. Paint adheres to chalk well and glue and chalk adhere to metal well. Traditional miniature painting was done on lead figures and paint doesn't stick well to lead figures so priming your models was a must then and is still recommended even though modern paints and figures don't necessarily need a priming layer. Gesso creates an absorbent surface and some toothy texture. This is good because oil paint especially will run off something which is too slick. Gesso is used to fill the gaps in cotton or linen canvas and as such it's a bit bulky. It's meant to be applied and after it has dried it is supposed to be sanded, brushed off, and more reapplied, but cheaper gesso has a lot of medium and less filler to help avoid sanding between layers and to save the company money and probably shipping weight. Traditionally gesso usually contained oil paint and/or rabbit skin glue which helped to size (stiffen and prevent warping and shrinkage) the canvas, but modern gesso has a pva and latex medium just like acrylic paint does. Vallejo surface primer is basically the same thing as gesso but it's more finely ground and has less pva/latex so it's more suitable for miniature painting. But it's basically the same stuff. Expensive brands of gesso might be a better substitute for surface primer, but surface primer isn't that expensive anyway. It's just a little hard to get at times. As a substitute for things like scenery you can use house paint primer or mix cheap acrylic craft paint, black and white or preferably black with brown or tan together to make a medium grey paint of whatever tone and use that to prime your models. Most cheap black paint is toothy and works well for this, but you have to check it as some dries glossy and shouldn't be used and if you have too much white or too much medium in the mix the surface becomes too slick to make a good primer. If I have leftover craft paint from a painting session sometimes I'll mix it all together and use that to brush over larger models or a canvas that I needed to prime anyway. Almost any kind of cheap acrylic spray paint with a matte finish will also work as primer, but can't be used on foam scenery; for that brush on cheap house primer or cheap house paint with a matte finish.

Excellent video. It begs the question though; after you've applied wash to your mini how clean is it really? ;)

How do you prevent the brush from picking up paint and then discolouring the rest of the glue in the bottle?

So is shade is kind of in between a wash and an ink? It color blends like an ink (but not as much) and darkens the recesses like a wash (but not as much)?

I you Baking Soda and Modge Podge

I had to bail, that music was to overwhelming/loud. Otherwise very informative thankyou!

How long time did you let the glue set for? Did you presand the surfaces? (adhesion will be 29,3 times better) Did you glue just one side or both? How long did you wait before mating the surfaces? (waiting a bit usually pays off) The thin variants will evaporate very quickly so is better for smaller parts because they take less time to apply the glue to. Thicker glue is better for bigger parts that require more time to apply the glue to as it will not evaporate as quickly. You forgot to mention exactly what you mean by "Best" You need to state these things if you are making a serious review. I am sure the quick setting solution can be applied to more things than just dryfitting, so calling a Tamiya product "junk" is a grosse miscalculation on your part. i like how you say we "may" be able to obtain some of these cement types depending on our LHS. This is the age of the internet so we can order anything we like online, no problem. You also fail to specify that the Tamiya cements with the white and orange lids are thick glues. What about the Revell glue, what consistency is that? I mean how can i know if you`re not telling me this? I would love to know more about the exact material you used for carrying out this test because you don`t say anything about it. The way you snap off the two elements you glued together (in my opinion) should have been pulled straight away from eachother to give a more realistic result. Lots of modelers don`t understand that these acetone based glues melt the plastics together ONLY if you do it correctly and thus will yield an incredibly strong bond.

The various Tamiya cements are intended for different applications, so they can't be properly 'performance' compared. I use the three Tamiyas plus the Revell Contacta, but for different applications / circumstances and they all do well in their intended situations.

Hello sir it's the orange bottle is good for the broken v fin and horns of the Gundam kits?

helpful video but the music is so fk annoying

As you become more experienced, you'll come to understand that different products have different purposes. You're comparing apples with oranges here so maybe you should think about a video showing how each should be used instead of saying which you believe is better based on a bit of rough cut sprue and card ;)

The white and orange bottles are the exact same product and differ only in volume. They are 40% n-butyl acetate, 40% acetone, 7% cyclohexane, 2% 3-methoxy-3-methylbutyl acetate, the latter two chemicals significantly increasing the "hotness". The darker green "Extra Thin" is about 50/50 n-butyl acetate and acetone, and the Tamiya brand Airbrush Cleaner is the same chemical combination at the same concentrations or within a few percent, leading many people to use this product to refill or in place of the Extra Thin. It works the same and the price difference is significant (I pay about 4¢/mL for the airbrush cleaner vs. 17¢/mL for the Extra Thin cement). The lighter green "Extra Thin Quick Setting" is 40% ethyl acetate, 40% acetone, 20% 2-butanone (also known as methylethyl ketone - "MEK"). Revell Contacta is n-butyl acetate. There's also the Tamiya Limonene-based plastic cements, which are 85%+ d-Limonene, 10% styrene, and 1-2% of each of α-terpinene and α-pinene. Not exactly "safe", but a lot safer than the rest. The information on composition and concentrations comes from Tamiya and Revell safety data sheets.

Which you recommend to erase seam lines? I'm using mig ammo extra thin cement, but I Wonder if any tamiya is better...

yeah the white & orange are the same, just the mls

Nice video man, I just wanna fix my rx-78-2 revive horns

Maybe do some research before saying Tamiya Extra Thin is "complete junk". It is not meant to work the same or be used for the same purpose as Revell Contacta which basically melts the plastic parts together for a very strong bond. Tamiya Extra Thin is outstanding for assembling individual link tracks precisely BECAUSE it only forms a weak and very flexible bond which allows the modeller to adjust the assembled but not yet set track assembly into the tricky positions required to mount tracks in place. A bit of knowledge sometimes goes a long way especially when passing judgement on things you don't know that much about.

damn, that was informative and to the point. very well explained

This is underrated, nice job! 👍

Nice vid man 👍

This was a really nice tutorial, thank you sir!

Good video! I am just getting into modeling and bought a Tamiya Spitfire model. I was not sure which cement I should use. This video definitely helped me. Thank you!

this was really helpful thanks for sharing!

I've used gesso for priming minis for years years with no problem. One think to note liquitex basics is extremely cheap, it's designed for student projects. A better quality gesso will coat in white in 2-3 coats. If using grey or black gesso it will cover in a single coat. The rough texture is designed for paint adherence, and when painted over with paints the end result is smooth. I wouldn't recommend using it bare if planning to wash over it as you did.

The gesso you experimented with is the lower quality student grade that Liquitex makes. Albeit more expensive, the artist grade is superior quality. That’s what I use. If you were to revisit using gesso, I would recommend the following: - white gesso is inherently difficult to work with, start with black. As long as you don’t over apply it, it’ll look lovely. - I generally prefer priming in white, so, this is how I apply the more difficult white gesso: take a small stiff dry brush or better, a small deerfoot brush and load it lightly with gesso. If there is too much on it, unload it onto your pallet or whatever. Moderately stab the brush onto the model. The idea is too cover the model with a light enough dusting so you’ll have the tooth needed for your base coat while preserving the model’s details. Works for me.